Very Low Compression/milky oil (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Threads
11
Messages
38
Location
Lakeport, CA
Hello Mudders, I've trolled the site for a lot of info but this is my first post.

1974 FJ40 w/ F155 motor


I noticed milky oil building up in my oil fill cap, and in the PCV valve but not on my dipstick. I got the vehicle to operating temperature and did a dry compression test, followed by a "wet" test with a little oil down each cylinder.

Cylinder PSI w/oil
1 55 70
2 48 70
3 28 45
4 15 68
5 25 39
6 30 45

Spark plugs 1-3 were black with some build up on them, spark plugs 4-6 were clean with an ashy brown color.

I checked/adjusted the valves at the same time and found white milky oil sitting on top of the valve clearance adjusters over cylinders 1 and 2, and some inside the valve cover, but nowhere else. My coolant doesn't visually have any signs of oil contamination.

Obviously the compression numbers are very poor. The milky oil over cylinders 1 and 2, and in the PCV likely indicate a bad head gasket at best.


Am I likely looking at worn rings and a bad head gasket? Is there much chance that replacing the head gasket will remedy my compression problems too?

Based on the available info, I'm looking for opinions on a couple courses of action. I'm not interested in fully rebuilding the motor, I think I would rather spend the money to put in a 3FE.

Option 1: Replace head gasket and hope that it at least keeps the water out. But if it doesn't bring my compression up, how long can I run on such low compression while I save for a 3FE swap?

Option 2: Buy an F155 out of a 1973 FJ55 off Craigslist for $500 that was pulled because he was given a 2F. Unknown mileage but supposedly had good power and no smoke.
Link to ad:
1973 Landcruiser Drivetrain
What are the real chances that I install this motor and it's any better than what I've got?


Thats where my heads at right now, I'm bummed to have this come up just as I was getting ready to pull the hard top off for spring...


My cruiser and background info:

May 1974 built FJ40
F155, desmogged, with Weber 38, unknown mileage, supposedly rebuilt at some point by PO, 33x12.5 tires, otherwise mostly stock.
This is my first cruiser, and I've owned it for a little over a year. Always thought the power has been very poor, most noticeably when because I cannot maintain speed going up any inclines at highway speeds. It's been this way since I owned so I just figured it's how these things were. I get a lot of condensation (liquid and white smoke/vapor) upon startup and was told by a trusted source that it was just condensation collecting on cold steel and so I never worried too much about it. This was a gift to myself after leaving the service, which I bought to have something to learn and tinker on; so far I've been able to do just that.


Thanks for reading my ramblings and I appreciate your feedback.


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Welcome to MUD! :flipoff2: Those compression numbers are dismal :(. I'm working on the 3FE swap now (along with a million other things) and it's a lot more involved and costly than swapping in another F or even a 2F.
 
I chased milky residue for a long time. Finally rented a radiator pressure tester and found I had a cracked head (between 1&2 rocker arms).
I replaced the head gasket 2x. Once with a bad head and once with a good head.

I would only replace the engine with a 2F or better power.
 
Welcome to Mud Jacob. Nice looking rig. Im of the same opinion of @Jdc1, go find you a 2f engine and swap it out, asap. As to make sure you don't loose any driving time this year!!

Make sure you stay on task and don't turn it into a 3 year frame off.
 
My guess is with compression #s that low and coolant in the oil, the engine is toast. $500 is the price of a good 2F out of an FJ60; that's what I'd look for.

Also, what's with that odd-ball thermostat housing ?
 
I'm thinking they are not related. Milky residue on your cap could be due to a lot of short trips and condensation in the engine. Reason being, the engine does not run for long enough to burn all the built up all the moisture in the engine, which can cause a residue on your cap but not on your dipstick. As for compression, it sounds to me like a bad head gasket but I am no expert. This video might explain a little better than I am...
 
Thanks for all of the feedback, I appreciate the welcomes and everyone chiming in. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'd love to pickup that used motor, drop it in and have it run great, just not sure how likely that is. It would be a great learning experience to swap a motor either way as I am learning everything as I go.


Make sure you stay on task and don't turn it into a 3 year frame off.

I'm afraid of that... I suffer from the affliction of "might as well replace that too while I'm in here".

Also, what's with that odd-ball thermostat housing ?

Not sure, what's odd about it? The one it had was so corroded it cracked, so I replaced it with the same type. I haven't really seen any other 40s so I can't compare it to anything.
 
I'm thinking they are not related. Milky residue on your cap could be due to a lot of short trips and condensation in the engine. Reason being, the engine does not run for long enough to burn all the built up all the moisture in the engine, which can cause a residue on your cap but not on your dipstick. As for compression, it sounds to me like a bad head gasket but I am no expert. This video might explain a little better than I am...

Thanks for the video, that could definitely explain the source of my water, since the coolant seems clean. I live several miles from town so most of my drives should be long enough to fully warm it up, but I do a lot of quick startups to move it around the property to work on it and such.
 
You got another compression gage you could try? Or maybe verify that gage on another engine?


When I replace my engine, I'll try to find the newest 2F I can.
 
You got another compression gage you could try? Or maybe verify that gage on another engine?

The gauge was a rental from O'reilly, they rented it to me brand new in the package. Ive been thinking about testing it on something else to verify its accuracy. You mentioning it too means I should probably do just that.
 
Also, did you have the throttle wide open for the compression test? Not sure how much that affects it, but you should.
 
I just ordered a leak down tester to try and see where I am losing air, hopefully it's not coming out everywhere.

Also, did you have the throttle wide open for the compression test? Not sure how much that affects it, but you should.

Yes, throttle was wide open so air flow should have been unrestricted. Good thought though.
 
Are you losing coolant? Let it sit for a day and crack open the oil drain plug slowly until it just starts to drain. Water/coolant should come out first. If you have water, then you know something is not sealed. It could be several different places.
 
I had an engine with two cyl with 30 each ... this is a tired engine... but... it will still run... mine had 450000+ miles I drove it for maybe 9 years with the cylinders like that... it never died

The foam is what was mentioned ... its condensation... very common ... not an issue

I put a fresher engine in that had 30k ... its better ... it's not a rocket ... it's a cruiser

If I want fast I get on my 69' Hercules three speed bicycle :meh:
 
you could compression test an engine before you put it in your cruiser. I'd get a good 2F it's a strong engine if you don't mind burning petrol.
if you want to burn chainsaw bar oil then get a diesel
 

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