Vehicle Lifts: 2-post, 4-post, etc (1 Viewer)

[ace10]

Trusses *can* be modified. Subject to budget, engineering design and AHJ review.

If I had only ~10' of headspace and really wanted to do a lift, especially a 2 post, I would consider raising the ceiling in one bay.

 

[spazzyfry123]

What are the ceiling /obstacle heights in your garage that you are trying to work with? i.e., ceiling height, height of garage door/tracks, ...

The details of the constraints that you are working could help define your options. For example, a friend reconfigured his garage door/tracks to hug the ceiling because of his height restrictions. He invested in new tracks and opener, but it gained him a few feet of clearance. Enough in his case that he is ordering a 4-post lift which should give him most of the functionality he is seeking while fitting within the available space.

Good luck and congratulations on getting the go-ahead for upgrades to your garage.

The 10' mentioned represents the ceiling sheetrock measured to the slab. It's really about 10'3" at the lowest point (typical slight slope of garage floor) and whatever marginally larger distance at the garage door itself. There are (8) lights that are a few inches thick as well, but that isn't factored as I could move to flush if needed. Opener is certainly in the way regardless of options A or B and will need a wall mount conversion as mentioned. A lock that will prevent the door to be opened when the lift is in use will be critical; otherwise, I'll need high rise door tracks which will not gain much relative to the cost to do so. At most I would crack the bottom of the door open, but with two doors, the one assigned to the lift can stay closed and the other can be opened... Or open one of the many windows. Regardless, I insulated the garage with the intent to put in a minisplit, so may be a moot point for environmental unless I will have fumes going.

This is all under anticipation of going "Option A" that puts a "portable" lift in the center of the two car bay. I just don't see "Option B" being a permanent option in the single car bay given that the door opening is only about 18" from the boxed floor board. Unless I offset the lift from the door centerline and go ahead with raised door tracks.

There is a high-lift quickjack design offered by Twin Bush.

Double Scissors Lift - 3.0 t

Double Scissors Lift - 3.0 t: The double scissors lift is perfect for above mounting. Ultrafl at consruction allows lifting of very low built ...

www.twinbusch.de

I have no firsthand experience with it, but have discussed it on various auto forums as an interesting alternative to 2 post or shorty QJs.

Very interesting! I like the ease by just driving over as well as the "fool proof" design with it being a scissor lift. The price isn't bad comparatively.

Trusses *can* be modified. Subject to budget, engineering design and AHJ review.

If I had only ~10' of headspace and really wanted to do a lift, especially a 2 post, I would consider raising the ceiling in one bay.

Yeah... While excited with 10' ceilings in combo with the oversized doors, we always want more

This isn't to say that this is a temporary approach, but I do have plans for a dedicated barn. I'd rather direct the funds to modify the 10' ceilings to the Barn Bucket. So maybe this is to say this lift will be temporary!

 

[ace10]

Sad, but kinda not really funny personal story about headspace in a garage.

I built my large-ish vehicle storage garage a few years back. Good budget, knew what I wanted to do with the space, more or less. Broke ground in the late Summer under ideal weather conditions. Way ahead of schedule the whole way through. But right off the bat, the masons were super-flaky. Everything was a debate, despite having excellent drawings. They ended up running an extra course of CMU on the frost walls. Which was fine. But then one morning, before I had to go to work, the carps had put in the sills the day before and were ready to go vertical, so we had to huddle up on the wall framing. "Did I want to run the full 2X6X12 or stick to the plans with respect to interior headspace?" Which would require cutting all the studs down by 7 or 8".

Well, my biggest concern was having enough brick for the exterior veneer. My contractor was responsible for the basic structure and electrical, and I was supplying all the doors, windows, HVAC, fixtures and finishes. I did some quick math and decided the brick was going to be too close for comfort, so I had them chop all the studs.

Uggg. What I would do to go back in time and have another chance to not do that again. Dumb. dumb. dumb.
I had at least two cubes of brick left over after the veneer was up.
But now I've forever got a ~12'4" ceiling instead of 13'+. And for anyone who messes around with cars on storage lifts, that difference is friggin massive. In either case, you couldn't stack two 4X4's, but let's just say I have extensive notes and rely on my laser measurer when I move stuff around. Ramming a vehicle up through a truss bottom chord is not something I ever want to do.

To anyone contemplating a build... don't cheap out on the interior height. More is better. And more than that is better still.

Crime scene photo:

 

[Waorani]

I'd save the $ for a more traditional lift in the barn. The C7000 still has to be bolted to the floor so "portable" is debatable. Not sure I'd be comfortable crawling under vehicle anchored in drive-in female anchors. At best you'll only be able to lift the 80 about 4ft which isn't much working room. Folks that I bought my current house from had a similar lift in the basement. Guy said he really only used it to change tires.

 

[spazzyfry123]

Sad, but kinda not really funny personal story about headspace in a garage.

I built my large-ish vehicle storage garage a few years back. Good budget, knew what I wanted to do with the space, more or less. Broke ground in the late Summer under ideal weather conditions. Way ahead of schedule the whole way through. But right off the bat, the masons were super-flaky. Everything was a debate, despite having excellent drawings. They ended up running an extra course of CMU on the frost walls. Which was fine. But then one morning, before I had to go to work, the carps had put in the sills the day before and were ready to go vertical, so we had to huddle up on the wall framing. "Did I want to run the full 2X6X12 or stick to the plans with respect to interior headspace?" Which would require cutting all the studs down by 7 or 8".

Well, my biggest concern was having enough brick for the exterior veneer. My contractor was responsible for the basic structure and electrical, and I was supplying all the doors, windows, HVAC, fixtures and finishes. I did some quick math and decided the brick was going to be too close for comfort, so I had them chop all the studs.

Uggg. What I would do to go back in time and have another chance to not do that again. Dumb. dumb. dumb.
I had at least two cubes of brick left over after the veneer was up.
But now I've forever got a ~12'4" ceiling instead of 13'+. And for anyone who messes around with cars on storage lifts, that difference is friggin massive. In either case, you couldn't stack two 4X4's, but let's just say I have extensive notes and rely on my laser measurer when I move stuff around. Ramming a vehicle up through a truss bottom chord is not something I ever want to do.

To anyone contemplating a build... don't cheap out on the interior height. More is better. And more than that is better still.

Crime scene photo:

View attachment 3796247

Coulda woulda shoulda! I find "why did I do that" things all the time with our house we built. Things I thought would be of no impact but to save a couple pennies are now much larger retrofit jobs. Taking my sweet time on the barn design...

I'd save the $ for a more traditional lift in the barn. The C7000 still has to be bolted to the floor so "portable" is debatable. Not sure I'd be comfortable crawling under vehicle anchored in drive-in female anchors. At best you'll only be able to lift the 80 about 4ft which isn't much working room. Folks that I bought my current house from had a similar lift in the basement. Guy said he really only used it to change tires.

And therein lies the thought that's constantly in the back of my head. If that's truly all we'll get out of it, save the headache and the coin to pick up a QuickJack 7000 (assuming it will adequately raise a lifted 80). I'll get the same use at half the cost. I've got minor things to do the Bimmer and 80 - undertray install, wheel spacers, oil change, brake change... Maybe QJ is the path for this chapter of life until we get the true space...

 

[Malleus]

Anyone have any experience with the BendPak MaxJax M7K? I don't mind having headroom, but I have no need to have my chassis 6 feet off the ground while I work on it.

 

[spazzyfry123]

Anyone have any experience with the BendPak MaxJax M7K? I don't mind having headroom, but I have no need to have my chassis 6 feet off the ground while I work on it.

Far from an expert, clearly, but I started my search with the MaxJax and landed at the Triumph C7000. Looks to be a better get. Can get higher, more incremental locking points, less coin... Similar concept, but doesn't include wheels like the MaxJax. Sounds like most put it under an HD hand truck or fab their own casters to relocate if needed.

 

[AirheadNut]

My brother's shop has a center post lift that was installed some time in the late '60s. Still works great, has a nominal capacity of 8k pounds but the people that built the shop originally (a local towing company) said they used to service their 11k tow truck on it. I actually really like the center post for most maintenance: it gives excellent access around the vehicle and is not in the way when not in use. The only downside is that it can't be used for some transmission/driveline work and it can't remove bodies from frames like a 2-post could.

This fall we bought a used Bend-Pak 12k 4-post lift. The main purpose for this lift will be vehicle storage, long term plan is to put our Ford Model TT truck on top and my brother's VW Fastback underneath. The lift was a bit wider than we wanted, so we cut 12" out of the cross beams and shortened the chains to match.

 

[Waorani]

My brother's shop has a center post lift that was installed some time in the late '60s. Still works great, has a nominal capacity of 8k pounds but the people that built the shop originally (a local towing company) said they used to service their 11k tow truck on it. I actually really like the center post for most maintenance: it gives excellent access around the vehicle and is not in the way when not in use. The only downside is that it can't be used for some transmission/driveline work and it can't remove bodies from frames like a 2-post could.
View attachment 3796622

This fall we bought a used Bend-Pak 12k 4-post lift. The main purpose for this lift will be vehicle storage, long term plan is to put our Ford Model TT truck on top and my brother's VW Fastback underneath. The lift was a bit wider than we wanted, so we cut 12" out of the cross beams and shortened the chains to match.

View attachment 3796623

Need to see pics of the TT!

 

[AirheadNut]

Need to see pics of the TT!

Don't have any recent photos of it unfortunately, this is from when we picked it up from my dad's cousin a number of years ago. It is a 1926, been in the family since 1936. 90% restored now, just needs a roof kit, new front tires and a flatbed built for it.

 

[Waorani]

4-post lift failure. Supposedly at some kind of event.

 

[ace10]

I've never used a three car lift, but I'm fairly certain that doing a full-height raise with a car on the top deck without anything on the second level is a bad idea.
Based on the size of that crossbar, that lift is a very light duty unit.

$0.02

 

[Waorani]

There wasn't much info when the pics started circulating. Turns out it was at most recent Barrett Jackson auction. Haven't seen any info on what brand but definitely not a good advertisement.

https://www.autoevolution.com/news/1955-chevy-bel-air-drops-off-lift-during-car-auction-no-it-won-t-buff-out-246085.html#

 

[kbahus]

After many years of being patient I finally have my dream shop and I am ready to start hunting for a 2-post lift and where to put it. The layout is pretty odd, the only access to the finished/heated side of the shop is through a roll up in the middle wall and driving through the other half of the pole barn. While installing an exterior rollup to this side of the shop is possible, I am not sure I entirely want one. I think I can get away with a 2-post right where that folding table is. It should give me enough space to store stuff on either side which would be nice. I just can't decide if it would be easier to back into the lift or pull straight in. Backing in would be nice for working and give me plenty of light and access to the rest of the shop and tools. Pulling straight in would be simpler to position, but more difficult to work on.

 

[Waorani]

Assume you're talking about an asymmetrical lift, otherwise it doesn't matter. Personally I'd rather pull in than back. Backing may also eat up other space if you have to pull in then jockey around backing up. I don't see the difference in backing vs pulling in as far as access to tools/rest of shop and tools being significant and you can always add extra lighting if needed.

 

[kbahus]

Yeah I was looking at asymmetrical lifts just to make it easier to get in the doors. My Sequoia and Tundra are a bit wide, a standard symmetrical is not a big deal on smaller cars but most of what I am working on are 1/2 tons it seems. I need to price out some options though and having the flexibility to pull through or back in would be pretty nice and something I didn't think about. A rep from Challenger contacted me and I need to call him tomorrow for pricing. I keep having to talk myself out of a Chinese lift although that is all I worked under for many years. The price is very appealing, but they just get sketchy with bigger vehicles.

 

[Skreddy]

@kbahus Mine is an Ideal 10k wide and tall. I got it through Lowe’s as it was free ship to store and with being a “lowes pro” (anyone can sign up) it was 15% off plus a normal sale. Really happy with it so far, just had to pick it up from lowes with my flatbed trailer.
It got scuffed in transit and they gave me a $400 gift card as a result too.

TP10KAC-DX is the model.

 

[kbahus]

Nice setup, does the extra width provide decent door clearance?

 

[Skreddy]

So far, it’s a symmetric/asymmetric so positions it more rearward anyhow. Biggest reason for extra wide for me was to be able to get my flatbed trailer under it for all the junk I drag home!

 

[kbahus]

Spoke with the Challenger guy, he also sells a few other brands too. An entry level Challenger (import) is $5k plus $1k for install, ouch. He sells some other import models but the savings are not that great. I am going to keep shopping around.