Ok Kirk, you've had 2 weekends and no updates. Where ya at on this?
Builds V8 Swap Project Begins! Again with LS2 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kirk
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We inmates are getting restless... You can't keep us hangin' like this !!!
Kirk,
I am considering attempting something similar to what you are doing with the help of a friend, and was hoping you could answer some questions I have about the swap.
• Did you have to use new drive shafts because the transfer case moved?
• With the throttle did you do drive by wire or drive by cable? Which parts did you use to make it fit?
• Was the transmission a 2wd or 4wd?
• Will a 2wd transmission fit to the adaptor to the transfer case?
• Did you do an in line or in tank fuel pump?
• Were the AC fittings interchangeable? If not what adaptors did you use?
• Who makes the motor mounts and adaptors and how much did they cost?
• Did you have to modify anything to make the trans fit?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
I am considering attempting something similar to what you are doing with the help of a friend, and was hoping you could answer some questions I have about the swap.
• Did you have to use new drive shafts because the transfer case moved?
• With the throttle did you do drive by wire or drive by cable? Which parts did you use to make it fit?
• Was the transmission a 2wd or 4wd?
• Will a 2wd transmission fit to the adaptor to the transfer case?
• Did you do an in line or in tank fuel pump?
• Were the AC fittings interchangeable? If not what adaptors did you use?
• Who makes the motor mounts and adaptors and how much did they cost?
• Did you have to modify anything to make the trans fit?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
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There are a few things you should consider.
1. Is money a factor? Iron will be cheaper.
2. Is weight a factor? Aluminum will be lighter.
If you are thinking of going with an iron block because you plan on boring it out, I wouldnt do it with either. I would run the block you have and then I would pick up a new block. You can get a newer LM4 long block for around $300-$500 bucks. For the amount of money you spend on getting the machine work done you could of baught a used one instead. Also if you are going to build anything bigger, I would use a LQ4/LQ9 block. You can pick up the block for $200-$300 and you can make that to as big as a 410 cubic inch motor (4.00X4.040)
As far as going with cast because of it will hold more power, You can push the stock aluminum blocks up to 1000 hp without o ringing or more studs. I dought you are going to push the aluminum that far. Also after the o ringing you can make over 1600 RWHP on the aluminum blocks.
The Iron block is 75 lb more then the aluminum.
I can back up all my answers if anyone has doubts. I log onto LS1TECH as HAIGHTER. I work at http://www.cunningham-motorsports.com
93fj80, good info and welcome to mud! Search this forum for LS1 and you will see a couple of other conversions too.
Thanks yo.
Good Info there! Sent a message to the guy to see what's up.
If you wouldn't mind do you have pictures of both blocks on a scale? There are so many people throwing out numbers from 100lbs down to 50lbs but no one has ever actually shown solid data.
Welcome from one noob to another.
I'm going to corner weight my conversion before and after if that's proof enough?
I don't have an aluminum motor like Kirk tho.
Kirk, ya, foreal, where are you?
I think he said he'd be really busy for a few weeks with his real job.
Either that or hes tangled up in wiring and can't get to the computer.
I don't have an aluminum motor like Kirk tho.
Kirk, ya, foreal, where are you?
I think he said he'd be really busy for a few weeks with his real job.
Either that or hes tangled up in wiring and can't get to the computer.
- Thread starter
- #49
I am alive and yes very busy at work. the wiring is a cinch because the truck already had a V8. About a dozen wires and we are live, when that time comes of course. I have to get the motor sitting in there first.
This is the best things that I found when they weighed the LS1 aluminum block vs an LQ4 Iron block. They say that the weight savings is 88 lbs. Remmember too that the all the block numbers for aluminum and iron are different weights. Thats block alone not to mention total built motor weight. There is a difference between even the late model and early model LS1. Not to mention LS1, LS2, LS3, LS4, LS6, LS7, LS9, LM4, LQ4, LQ9, LM7, L33, and L92 blocks, cranks, heads and different 4L60e, 4L65e, 4L80, 6L80, M6, MN10, and MN12 transmissions.
Chevy LS1 Engine Block Basics - Hot Rod Magazine
Here are a few places that you can also ask to make sure the weight is simmular. They are known for there knowledge of LSX based motors.
Performance Parts for Camaro, Corvette, Mustang, Firebird, Trans Am, GTO, Impala SS, Cobra from Thunder Racing
http://www.texas-speed.com
Speed Inc
Home | Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
Corvette Wheels Parts & Accessories - FREE Bonus Products!
A & A Corvette Performance, Your C5, C6 and Z06 Corvette Supercharger Specialists
http://rpm-motors-inc.com/
Turnkey Engine Supply
Nelson Racing Engines - "We Build Horsepower!" Twin Turbo LSX
http://www.virginiaspeed.com
- Thread starter
- #52
nope I have owned it for 7years and had a LT1 v8 before I decide to switch to the ls2
- Thread starter
- #53
Tranny and Tcase are in. Hope to set motor tomorrow and get the engine mounts tacked in place. There is so much more room in the transmission tunnel with the GM tranny in place. More tomorrow hopefully. Kirk
- Thread starter
- #54
Also I had two stripped and one broken off tranny crossmember bolts. I drilled all the bad weld nuts out and fished the machined fasteners I had a friend make with a coathanger through a hole in the framerail. Then the step in the fastener pulls tight to the bottom of the framerail when in place. I then TIG'd the fastener in from the bottom and the problem is solved.
Great progress. Man, I'm glad to see the adapter fits into the cross-member! It's also interesting, to me, that the torque converter only has 3 bolts.
- Thread starter
- #57
Motors in! Need to laser cut different motor mounts. The ones I pre cut are way off. Also a 1500 silverado oil pan is not going to work. My ram assist steering will be in the way. I am thinking the trailblazer ss pan I have may work. As a last resort I know the kevco with remote filter will work.
Other observations I have is the motor is definetly taller than the LT1. I think the alternator and throttle body will be very close to clearing the hood. The hooker super comp block hugger headers will work perfect. More to come.....
Other observations I have is the motor is definetly taller than the LT1. I think the alternator and throttle body will be very close to clearing the hood. The hooker super comp block hugger headers will work perfect. More to come.....
- Thread starter
- #58
Damn, that's a beautiful site! Turning the corner for home stretch!
Nice work
That motor looks like it was meant to sit there. I never really considered even trying to put a V8 in the 80 but those of you that are doing it and documenting it are making it seem more realistic. GM has even come out with a LS3 EROD crate motor made to work with a 4l80 and a few others, its a little expensive but seems almost plug and play for those of us with a 95’-97’ and would like to pass emissions and want a base motor @430HP. They even provide an instruction manual and wiring diagram. The really good thing is everything is very similar to your setup other than the marks adaptor.
Nice work on pictures and documenting your progress. I now wish I could turn that key and hear the LS motor purring every time I jumped in the FJLS80.
That motor looks like it was meant to sit there. I never really considered even trying to put a V8 in the 80 but those of you that are doing it and documenting it are making it seem more realistic. GM has even come out with a LS3 EROD crate motor made to work with a 4l80 and a few others, its a little expensive but seems almost plug and play for those of us with a 95’-97’ and would like to pass emissions and want a base motor @430HP. They even provide an instruction manual and wiring diagram. The really good thing is everything is very similar to your setup other than the marks adaptor.
Nice work on pictures and documenting your progress. I now wish I could turn that key and hear the LS motor purring every time I jumped in the FJLS80.
