Looks clean !
Builds US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 2uz/h151f swap (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tank5
- Start date
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Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #182
I have been making progress on this. Ordered a new advics (aisin) brake master for the 93-94 non abs models. Since I swapped in the later Elockers disk axles I needed this as the early booster was not up to the task. This is the same set up I am running on my 45 and it works well. Hope I get the same results.
I ordered a new carpet set from stock interiors. Before I can start on that I had to solve the a second row seat mount issue. I pointed out earlier this 80 came with a bench seat I don’t have. The 80 is missing two mounting points to install the split 2nd row seats.
I cut the missing mount bracket out of a parts 80 to fix this. I had to remove some paint between the mounting surfaces, sprayed some weld through primer, then applied some 3m weldable body sealer between the pieces. Used the seat bolts to align and secure the new rib in place and finally used the spot welder to secure it permanently. After it dried I used some epoxy primer followed by color matched 2k single stage paint to finish it.
I had to drop the fuel tank to do this work. While I had it down I pulled the sending unit out and swapped in a brand new aisin fuel pump from a 2006 Land Cruiser. I also swapped in a new oem gauge sending unit.
I drained and cleaned the tank out the best I could. The inside looked fine. There was a small amount of particles sitting in the bottom of the sending unit baffle. After that I put it all back together and hope to get some trouble free years out of it.
I ordered a new carpet set from stock interiors. Before I can start on that I had to solve the a second row seat mount issue. I pointed out earlier this 80 came with a bench seat I don’t have. The 80 is missing two mounting points to install the split 2nd row seats.
I cut the missing mount bracket out of a parts 80 to fix this. I had to remove some paint between the mounting surfaces, sprayed some weld through primer, then applied some 3m weldable body sealer between the pieces. Used the seat bolts to align and secure the new rib in place and finally used the spot welder to secure it permanently. After it dried I used some epoxy primer followed by color matched 2k single stage paint to finish it.
I had to drop the fuel tank to do this work. While I had it down I pulled the sending unit out and swapped in a brand new aisin fuel pump from a 2006 Land Cruiser. I also swapped in a new oem gauge sending unit.
I drained and cleaned the tank out the best I could. The inside looked fine. There was a small amount of particles sitting in the bottom of the sending unit baffle. After that I put it all back together and hope to get some trouble free years out of it.
Nice work ! for a OEM look
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #184
I could have had the interior back together by now but I decided to purchase a sub tank for the 80. I didn’t want to install new carpet knowing I have to pull the sending unit out again and will have to run new wiring. I have half of the install done and wiring idea figured out. I am waiting on the last piece to arrive this week and hope to finish up the install this weekend. I will add the install to the build after I get through it.
After the tank is done I can finally put the interior back together which brings me to my next dilemma. I had purchased a set of JDM manual seats with matchinch door cards that came with manual window cranks and everything I need to install them. Early on I thought it. Would be awesome to build on the poverty pack utility of this 80.
Now that I am about to put it back together I realizing how nice it is to have electric windows. The ability to put them up and down on the trail when passing a traffic to keep the dust out or putting it up or down for the dog riding in the car. I am probably overthinking it but I’m currently undecided. The original cloth front seats need some upholstery if I reuse them to match the electric windows door panels.
This is the type of original cloth seats that I have for it (internet picture). Mine need work. Anyone know where I can button this type of cloth material to have the upholstery shop repair them?
After the tank is done I can finally put the interior back together which brings me to my next dilemma. I had purchased a set of JDM manual seats with matchinch door cards that came with manual window cranks and everything I need to install them. Early on I thought it. Would be awesome to build on the poverty pack utility of this 80.
Now that I am about to put it back together I realizing how nice it is to have electric windows. The ability to put them up and down on the trail when passing a traffic to keep the dust out or putting it up or down for the dog riding in the car. I am probably overthinking it but I’m currently undecided. The original cloth front seats need some upholstery if I reuse them to match the electric windows door panels.
This is the type of original cloth seats that I have for it (internet picture). Mine need work. Anyone know where I can button this type of cloth material to have the upholstery shop repair them?
alia176
SILVER Star
FINALLY, you've seen the light 
Now that I am about to put it back together I realizing how nice it is to have electric windows. The ability to put them up and down on the trail when passing a traffic to keep the dust out or putting it up or down for the dog riding in the car.
Now that I am about to put it back together I realizing how nice it is to have electric windows. The ability to put them up and down on the trail when passing a traffic to keep the dust out or putting it up or down for the dog riding in the car.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #187
I can’t say I won’t install the manual windows and interior but I am having second thoughts.FINALLY, you've seen the light
Now that I am about to put it back together I realizing how nice it is to have electric windows. The ability to put them up and down on the trail when passing a traffic to keep the dust out or putting it up or down for the dog riding in the car.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #188
I thought I had the 80 ready to run but no. The same issues I was having before has returned, that being inconsistent idle, and it falls on it’s face if I try to throttle it up. The only codes I am getting are P0031 and P0051. I replaced both of the A/F sensors with new oem units, so I don’t believe the sensors are the issue. I started looking at the EWD for the A/F sensors and think I may have found the issue but want another opinion before I open the harness up again.
This is the EWD for the Air Fuel sensors.
I read the diagram to show both A/F sensors get Battery voltage from the Black/Red wire that is fed through the A/F relay in conjunction with the Secondary Air Injection. I Deleted the Secondary Air Injection.
With the engine running I probed the Black/Red wire at the A/F sensor plug and got no voltage. Should I see voltage on that wire? I thinking the delete of the SAI maybe the cause of my issue.
Thoughts anyone? Am I Reading the EWD correctly?
This is the EWD for the Air Fuel sensors.
I read the diagram to show both A/F sensors get Battery voltage from the Black/Red wire that is fed through the A/F relay in conjunction with the Secondary Air Injection. I Deleted the Secondary Air Injection.
With the engine running I probed the Black/Red wire at the A/F sensor plug and got no voltage. Should I see voltage on that wire? I thinking the delete of the SAI maybe the cause of my issue.
Thoughts anyone? Am I Reading the EWD correctly?
Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #189
If you skipped the last post please read it. It is the only thing keeping me from driving this 80.
Over the last few weeks I have been collecting parts to install an oem sub tank.
The parts
I purchase a 100 series sub tank and associated install parts shown in the first picture. Second I bought a 80 series dual fill neck and last I purchased a sending unit / pump carrier that came from and factory 80 series outfitted with a sub tank. It and extra tub to receive fuel from the sub tank directly.
So I choose the 100 sub tank because it was available and I really like that it has the transfer pump in the tank and uses the same pump as the main tank. I was just hoping I could make it fit in the 80.
Over the last few weeks I have been collecting parts to install an oem sub tank.
The parts
I purchase a 100 series sub tank and associated install parts shown in the first picture. Second I bought a 80 series dual fill neck and last I purchased a sending unit / pump carrier that came from and factory 80 series outfitted with a sub tank. It and extra tub to receive fuel from the sub tank directly.
So I choose the 100 sub tank because it was available and I really like that it has the transfer pump in the tank and uses the same pump as the main tank. I was just hoping I could make it fit in the 80.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #190
The 100 series sub tank in pictures looked very similar to the 80 Tank in pictures. My limited research found very little information for fitting a 100 tank in a but I took the risk. I am happy to report the tank physically fit in the 80 series space no problem.
The tank straps were a different story. Fitting he straps I used the oem mounting locations for the 80 straps. I installed M10 - 1.50 nut serts as others have shown.
The first two pictures show the plugs in the factory mounting holes. Remove the plugs and the nut sert fits in perfectly before you crush it. Good thing because you cannot drill those holes without lifting the body. I managed to set the nut serts using the bolt washer and nut method. There is no other way with the body in place.
The last picture are the rear two holes. You have to drill them. They are easy compared two the other two, since you have room to work.
Tank in with 100 straps you can see they are loose.
I found I had to cut and inch out of the straps. I cut the straps at the elbow of the mounting flange. This allowed me to lay the straps over the flange and weld it together. Afterwards I redrilled the hole and they were good to go. I did used downed weld through primer between the overlap pieces anc then finished them off with new paint.
Tank bolted up with new hardware it fit nice tight. It is not moving.
The tank straps were a different story. Fitting he straps I used the oem mounting locations for the 80 straps. I installed M10 - 1.50 nut serts as others have shown.
The first two pictures show the plugs in the factory mounting holes. Remove the plugs and the nut sert fits in perfectly before you crush it. Good thing because you cannot drill those holes without lifting the body. I managed to set the nut serts using the bolt washer and nut method. There is no other way with the body in place.
The last picture are the rear two holes. You have to drill them. They are easy compared two the other two, since you have room to work.
Tank in with 100 straps you can see they are loose.
I found I had to cut and inch out of the straps. I cut the straps at the elbow of the mounting flange. This allowed me to lay the straps over the flange and weld it together. Afterwards I redrilled the hole and they were good to go. I did used downed weld through primer between the overlap pieces anc then finished them off with new paint.
Tank bolted up with new hardware it fit nice tight. It is not moving.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #191
Prior to mounting the tank up I installed the dual filler neck. Installling it was pretty straightforward forward. I even got lucky and my filler neck tub had already been cut by a prior owner. I just removed the old hose and replaced with new to work with the new neck.
More to come
More to come
I’m not 100% sure how the 2UZ is setup, but the labeling on that relay for the o2 sensor leads me to believe it’s for the heater only. I wouldn’t expect voltage there for more than a few seconds after starting. I’ll see if I can track down some diagnostic info later today.
Have you plugged a scan tool in? What values do the o2’s read?
-Rob
Have you plugged a scan tool in? What values do the o2’s read?
-Rob
Where's the black/red wire originating from? Can't see on the pictures but usually the A/F sensor power supply would come from either an EFI fuse or relay that supplies multiple components such as ECM and VSVs, connected through splices inside the engine harness. Either way, it should have 12V with ignition on and/or the engine running, provided you measured against a proper ground point. Trace the black/red wire back on the diagram and check on the harness, measure for continuity from sensor to source.
Nice work as usual, sorry I not more helpful with post #188
Here's the diagnostic procedures for those codes (I guessed at an 06 4Runner 2UZ). It doesn't look like this circuit really interacts with the SAI system.
Since you're getting both codes, I'd start with checking the Relay, and it's input voltage.
-Rob
-Rob
Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #197
@RivMan and @HDJ80L thanks for the diagnostic help.
I will review the diagnostic procedures after work today and share what I find.
One issue I have is this harness was shipped out and built into a stand Alone engine harness. Some of the factory relays have been removed, thus I am not sure if the system will respond to the diagnostic tests as designed by Toyota. I have reached out to the harness builder for help. Hopefully they will provide insight into how the circuit was rebuilt.
The Black/Red wire runs from the sensor to the A/F HTR Relay which is received Battery power from the A/F Fuse. With the stand alone harness the power through the relay and fuse have had to be rerouted to supply the Battery voltage to the sensor. I guess I just don’t know if that battery power is supposed to be provided consistently or momentarily when required. You can follow the Black/Red wire across the two diagrams I posted.
I will review the diagnostic procedures after work today and share what I find.
One issue I have is this harness was shipped out and built into a stand Alone engine harness. Some of the factory relays have been removed, thus I am not sure if the system will respond to the diagnostic tests as designed by Toyota. I have reached out to the harness builder for help. Hopefully they will provide insight into how the circuit was rebuilt.
The Black/Red wire runs from the sensor to the A/F HTR Relay which is received Battery power from the A/F Fuse. With the stand alone harness the power through the relay and fuse have had to be rerouted to supply the Battery voltage to the sensor. I guess I just don’t know if that battery power is supposed to be provided consistently or momentarily when required. You can follow the Black/Red wire across the two diagrams I posted.
Tank5
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- Thread starter
- #198
@RivMan Thanks again for the diagrams. The circuit on the 4runner is different than the Land Cruiser but the diagnostic information was supper helpful and helped me get a better understanding of how the circuit works and what test to run.
I did here back from the harness builder and learned how the A/F sensor circuit was built in the harness.
What I have confirmed with all this information is that there is a break or interruption between the fuse power and the sensor. It is broken somewhere. I tested for continuity multiple times and could not get any. I hate it but I am probably going to have to pull the harness out again and open it up to find the break. I am going to wait to hear back from the builder to see if he can direct me to a specific part of the harness that might prevent me from having to remove it or open up more than necessary.
I did here back from the harness builder and learned how the A/F sensor circuit was built in the harness.
What I have confirmed with all this information is that there is a break or interruption between the fuse power and the sensor. It is broken somewhere. I tested for continuity multiple times and could not get any. I hate it but I am probably going to have to pull the harness out again and open it up to find the break. I am going to wait to hear back from the builder to see if he can direct me to a specific part of the harness that might prevent me from having to remove it or open up more than necessary.
Tank5
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #199
Running issue update above in post #198. I feel like I have something solid to point at as potential issue.
Picking back up on the sub tank install.
with the sun tank and dual filler neck installed I moved on to installing the main tank sending unit with a new oem fuel pump and gauge unit. It is simple and fits right in no issues, it just has an extra tube.
I moved on to the wiring next. There was enough room in the original floor harness along the driver side that I could run the sub tank wiring through the oem plugs all the way up to the driver kick panel. I pulled wire runs out of the same harness that I pulled the Elocker wiring out of. I pulled the wiper wires for the sub tank runs, so factory runs with pins that were just plug a play.
Under the driver kick panel I used a recycled Toyota plug set to transfer the wiring from the floor harness and a couple spliced in wires to create the wiring.
Driver kick panel tie in before it got wrapped.
All wrapped up.
The harness I built to tie my sub tank management all together.
The plan was to set the system up to just transfer the sub tank fuel to the main tank. The sub tank switch I had in hand is the pictured on of switch not momentary version.
In order to use this switch with the 100 series tank I needed to be able to monitor the transfer I so could turn it off with out running the pump dry. I was bouncing gauge ideas of off @alia176 when he shared his 15 year old from when he installed his tank but opted not to act on it.
His idea was to wire up the both tank gauges to read on the single gauge cluster. Running them through a switch so you can toggle between tanks was the idea. I found the rear heater switch could work this way.
I needed to prove the concept before I committed, so I built a crude bench top system with all the necessary components. I was able to make it work while manipulating the sending units by hand.
It works!
The sub tanks works as it should. It has a light to indicate when it is pushed, so hopefully it makes it harder to forget about. It is also backlight with the running lights through the symbol.
The rear heater switch is simple after you figure out how it works. Push it to LO and it will connect the sub tank to the fuel gauge, switch it to high and it will connect the main tank to the fuel gauge. If you leave the switch in neutral position it will not read either tank. Wiring the switch is simple. You just need to run the gauge wire from each tank to the switch and one wire from the switch to the gauge cluster. Three wires is all. I connected all of this through the harness in the driver kick panel shown earlier.
The plugs will sit here after the dash is back together.
Tested after everything was installed and it appears to be working. I just need to be able to drive it to the gas station now to fill it up.
I am planning to have the rear heater switch relabeled to have the fuel symbol in the center and S/M to replace the LO/HI.
Picking back up on the sub tank install.
with the sun tank and dual filler neck installed I moved on to installing the main tank sending unit with a new oem fuel pump and gauge unit. It is simple and fits right in no issues, it just has an extra tube.
I moved on to the wiring next. There was enough room in the original floor harness along the driver side that I could run the sub tank wiring through the oem plugs all the way up to the driver kick panel. I pulled wire runs out of the same harness that I pulled the Elocker wiring out of. I pulled the wiper wires for the sub tank runs, so factory runs with pins that were just plug a play.
Under the driver kick panel I used a recycled Toyota plug set to transfer the wiring from the floor harness and a couple spliced in wires to create the wiring.
Driver kick panel tie in before it got wrapped.
All wrapped up.
The harness I built to tie my sub tank management all together.
The plan was to set the system up to just transfer the sub tank fuel to the main tank. The sub tank switch I had in hand is the pictured on of switch not momentary version.
In order to use this switch with the 100 series tank I needed to be able to monitor the transfer I so could turn it off with out running the pump dry. I was bouncing gauge ideas of off @alia176 when he shared his 15 year old from when he installed his tank but opted not to act on it.
His idea was to wire up the both tank gauges to read on the single gauge cluster. Running them through a switch so you can toggle between tanks was the idea. I found the rear heater switch could work this way.
I needed to prove the concept before I committed, so I built a crude bench top system with all the necessary components. I was able to make it work while manipulating the sending units by hand.
It works!
The sub tanks works as it should. It has a light to indicate when it is pushed, so hopefully it makes it harder to forget about. It is also backlight with the running lights through the symbol.
The rear heater switch is simple after you figure out how it works. Push it to LO and it will connect the sub tank to the fuel gauge, switch it to high and it will connect the main tank to the fuel gauge. If you leave the switch in neutral position it will not read either tank. Wiring the switch is simple. You just need to run the gauge wire from each tank to the switch and one wire from the switch to the gauge cluster. Three wires is all. I connected all of this through the harness in the driver kick panel shown earlier.
The plugs will sit here after the dash is back together.
Tested after everything was installed and it appears to be working. I just need to be able to drive it to the gas station now to fill it up.
I am planning to have the rear heater switch relabeled to have the fuel symbol in the center and S/M to replace the LO/HI.
alia176
SILVER Star
Good work amigo,. maybe this will incentivize to finish up the dual sending unit feeding the level indicator in the dash.
Probably not, who am I kidding
But just in case pls.make two labels so that I can apply it then stare at an inoperational switch for another decade or so.
Probably not, who am I kidding
But just in case pls.make two labels so that I can apply it then stare at an inoperational switch for another decade or so.
