Build US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 2uz/h151f swap

[alia176]

so shiny........

My 4runner has that 4.7 goodness and it's at 425xxx mileage. It FINALLY started to leak oil at the oil pan mating surface!! I think it's on the original starter. These are amazing engines. Reckon I should do another timing belt project this summer.

 

[Tank5]

so shiny........

My 4runner has that 4.7 goodness and it's at 425xxx mileage. It FINALLY started to leak oil at the oil pan mating surface!! I think it's on the original starter. These are amazing engines. Reckon I should do another timing belt project this summer.

I didn’t realize your 4runner had that many miles on it. I have heard these engines are capable of a million miles but you have the highest miles of anyone that I have met.

Interesting that your oil pan is leaking I have a slight leak on this engine and it has to be from the lower oil pan gasket. I will end up re sealing it when I do the first oil change.

 

[Tank5]

I am trying to check things off enough to take a test drive. It needs exhaust, so ordered this kit from Revel designed for a 100 series. I think it will work but I will have to reconfigure the mounts. I had to order more parts and materials to fit it.

While I wait I started working through the E-locker wiring. This 80 does not have a single provision in the factory harness for the e-locker wiring. I had saved almost everything I need from the harness of an 80 I parted out. The section I am missing is the driver side floor harness from the kick panel to the tail lights. If anyone knows where I can get that let me know.

 

[Tank5]

I found an LX floor harness to complete my wiring needs for Elockers. Originally I figured I would swap the floor and rear sill harnesses to replace what was in the poverty 80. After comparing both sections side by side I opted to go another route.

The LX and newer LC harnesses had a lot of extra plugs that would have added clutter to the system, so I opted to “depin” the wiring I needed for the Elockers and reinstall it in the original poverty harness. It will all get pined in the same location, so anyone referencing a manual diagram for Elocker wiring will find it consistent.

It will be as oem factory like as I can make it.

 

[Tank5]

Finished swapping the elocker wiring into the harness sections. It is definitely the way to go. The rear cross section still needs taped but I am waiting for an oem 4 pin trailer harness to arrive. I am going to add it to the harness before I button it up.

Wiring pictures are not very exciting but hear it is anyway.

 

[Tank5]

The bigger accomplishment this week end is the exhaust. It is all done and installed. I started with a Revel cat back kit for a 100 series, it required some minor tweaks and new frame side mounts to fit the 80.

The rest I built with new stainless steel pieces and recycled 100 oem flanges.

 

[Tank5]

Years ago I did a factory install of factory e-lockers in a 1992.

I used the 92 dash with a 93 locker stencil and wired in the lights.

The challenging part was wiring in the speed sensor. Which is there even though it’s a cable speedometer.

In the end it’s been flawless

I almost have all the Elocker wiring installed. The last thing I am working on is the wires that go to the gauge cluster. Two of them of them are obvious for the Front and Rear indicator bulbs. The last is the Red/Black wire that I am not sure about. You mentioned a speed sensor you had to wire in, is that what the Red/Black wire goes to in the cluster? Can you share what you did for the speed sensor?

The cluster I am using has a cable for the Speedo.

Do I need the Speed sensor or can I just run it to ground?

I appreciate your input.

 

[landtank]

Look I found the speed sensor in the wiring diagram for the 92 which was getting the lockers. I then found the connection for the speed sensor in the 96 EWD for the locker circuit. Then just linked the two. I think the splice on the 92 was behind the glove box.

 

[Tank5]

Look I found the speed sensor in the wiring diagram for the 92 which was getting the lockers. I then found the connection for the speed sensor in the 96 EWD for the locker circuit. Then just linked the two. I think the splice on the 92 was behind the glove box.

Got it, The Black/Red wire is tied into the speed sensor and gauge cluster circuit. I am pretty sure I have that sorted out now. I just need some warm days to get back into the garage.

 

[Tank5]

I have been trying to track down an oem delete plate for the shift/gear indicators in the early gauge cluster. I had purchased a cluster out of Australia that I thought had what I needed.

In my efforts to identify this as an early cluster through photos I assumed that this was an early 91-92 gauge cluster because the speedo on the pictured cluster is cable driven and not electronic, like what I have. It is understandable I suppose that Australia had more options than we did here.

Now I have to buy whole different poverty 80 to put this gauge cluster in. Crazy!

If anyone has a lead on an elusive early 91-92 delete insert to replace the gear selector display let me know.

 

[Tank5]

I think I am over the plastic cluster delete piece. I pulled the center section out and removed all the bulbs then cover the face of the gear indicator with a piece of black electrical tape. I may try to find another tape with a duller finish but if not it will be fine as it is.

 

[CharlieS]

I like this solution. A matte vinyl car wrap material might be an option for less shiny. There are a ton of ebay sellers that sell small pieces cheap.

 

[Tank5]

I like this solution. A matte vinyl car wrap material might be an option for less shiny. There are a ton of ebay sellers that sell small pieces cheap.

That is a good idea. I just ordered a piece. I will see how it works.

 

[Tank5]

The Toyota trailer light converter harness showed up today. I wired it in and swapped out the old school 4 pin plug for a modern plug I pulled from a tundra. It will make replacing a damaged plug easier.

 

[Tank5]

I have made some progress but it was a lot of wiring, so no pictures. I had pulled the dash harness out to add the locker wiring and remove some plugs I didn’t need to clean things up. I also added another plug to get the oil pressure gauge working.

I could not get the signal from the ecu to run tach, so I ordered a unit from Dakota Digital to make it work.

Everything on the cluster including the lockers is working, so that is a win.

All the fluids are full and the brakes and clutch are working. Sadly I could not drive it yet. The throttle response is poor and won’t go above 2000 or hold a steady rpm above idle. It is acting like it is in limp mode.

I checked the scan gauge for codes and got P0031 & P0051 both are the air fuel ratio sensors. I swapped them out for two from another used parts motor I purchased ( they bench tested fine) but no change in performance and still have the codes. I ordered two new AFS and hope that cleans it up but I have doubts.

I went ahead and put the front back together. I splurged for a newer 8274-50 winch for this 80. It is not wired up but close. I still need to decide what I want to do for a second battery set up.

 

[Tank5]

The good news is I drove it today just a little over a mile and not above 3rd gear but it made me smile.

It is not bug free yet. I am still waiting on A/R sensors to arrive. I learned that those sensors shouldn’t prevent it from running, so I went looking elsewhere.

Through some experimentation I learned that the engine runs perfectly if I separate the air box lid from the intake pipe. With the intake pipe open and the MAF installed it runs great. This is how I took it for a short drive.

Back to the issue. It runs great like this.

If I install the lid on the intake pipe it falls on its face again. Rough idle, won’t hold throttle above idle and won’t rev beyond 2k rpm’s. I am calling this limp mode but I am not getting any codes for it

I also tried adding a big K&N filter to the intake to see if it would run. Same situation, goes into limp mode with the filter on but pull it off and it runs great. Filter added picture.

The MAF is a brand new Toyota part. I am starting to suspect it could be bad. I ran some tests on the MAF today and I just need to figure out what the test should produce to figure out what it means.

Curious what others might think the issue might be.

 

[RivMan]

I don't have any insight on the Toyota setup, but I do have some experience with a similar LS engine configuration.

The MAF table in the ECU is tuned for that MAF a specific location, in a specific size pipe, with a specific backpressure behind it. If any of those items change, the reading from the MAF will be off, likely by a lot.

I would guess that your open pipe is close enough to what it's looking for to run, but you're right on the ragged edge.

On an LS, you need to tune the MAF table by locking the ECU into Open Loop, MAF only operation. Then you record data about airflow and with a wideband O2 sensor to determine the offset from expected airflow to actual. Then making small corrections to the table and re-testing. It's an iterative process that takes a long time to get just right. When you have a vehicle "Tuned", that sort of thing makes a huge difference, and no two vehicles will be exactly alike.

-Rob

 

[Tank5]

I don't have any insight on the Toyota setup, but I do have some experience with a similar LS engine configuration.

The MAF table in the ECU is tuned for that MAF a specific location, in a specific size pipe, with a specific backpressure behind it. If any of those items change, the reading from the MAF will be off, likely by a lot.

I would guess that your open pipe is close enough to what it's looking for to run, but you're right on the ragged edge.

On an LS, you need to tune the MAF table by locking the ECU into Open Loop, MAF only operation. Then you record data about airflow and with a wideband O2 sensor to determine the offset from expected airflow to actual. Then making small corrections to the table and re-testing. It's an iterative process that takes a long time to get just right. When you have a vehicle "Tuned", that sort of thing makes a huge difference, and no two vehicles will be exactly alike.

-Rob

I don’t know anyone that can tune the oem 2uz ecu which is what I’m using. I do believe I got this sorted out though.

 

[Tank5]

My oem replacement Air Fuel sensors showed up and it seems to have solved my throttle and idle issues. I have not driven it yet but it runs fine with the air box hooked up, so I am optimistic, that issue is solved.

I have found a compounding issue that may explain why it was responding the way it was. It never showed up before but after installing the A/F sensors and clearing the codes, I was getting a code for a low voltage signal from the MAF sensor. The sensors wiring came to me like this.

It looks suspect, so I ordered a new plug and am going to clean it up. Testing at the plug, I am getting 14 volts delivered. I suspect that one of the pins is not making full contact which is the same issue I had with the crank sensor when it would not run. Now I know at least what I might be looking for.

 

[Tank5]

I attempted to swap in a new plug with new crimps but found two of the wires used to build the harnes were larger and would not seat all the way in the plug. This was also observed when I took the old plug apart. No matter how hard I tried I could nut get the two larger gauge connectors to seat in the plug all the way. I had a good used plug with pigtail that I opted to use instead. I cut the new crimp off and soldered the new plug in.

After the plug was installed I ran the engine for a bit and played with the throttle. I did not get a code for low MAF current, so this may have solved that issue. I will know for sure after I get some miles on it with out the code coming back.