Build US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 2uz/h151f swap

[Tank5]

Good work amigo,. maybe this will incentivize to finish up the dual sending unit feeding the level indicator in the dash.

Probably not, who am I kidding

But just in case pls.make two labels so that I can apply it then stare at an inoperational switch for another decade or so.

It is pretty easy addition if you have the tank and everything else installed already. You really just need to run a ground for the sun tank sending unit and one wire to the switch. Then redirect the gauge wire from the main thank sender to the switch and run a new wire from the switch that connects to the original gauge feed wire. That and you’re done.

Drink some coffee first and then dig in. You can do it.

 

[reklund5]

View attachment 3862717

Is it possible that you have that MAF mounted 180º out of it's factory configuration? Most 100 series I see the MAF is mounted flat with the plug facing the rear. In your photo, the plug faces up, which makes me think if that pipe was rotated so it was flat, it'd still be 180º out.

I've seen that issue more than once with aftermarket cold air intakes... just a thought that might be easy to check.

Reading the rest of your thread, the A/F sensor codes aren't going to present a drivability problem. You should be able to unplug the AF sensors on a good running setup and get circuit codes, but still drive the vehicle somewhat normally. Your symptoms of poor idle and inconsistent throttle response make me think you have an air metering problem.

 

[Tank5]

Is it possible that you have that MAF mounted 180º out of it's factory configuration? Most 100 series I see the MAF is mounted flat with the plug facing the rear. In your photo, the plug faces up, which makes me think if that pipe was rotated so it was flat, it'd still be 180º out.

I've seen that issue more than once with aftermarket cold air intakes... just a thought that might be easy to check.

Reading the rest of your thread, the A/F sensor codes aren't going to present a drivability problem. You should be able to unplug the AF sensors on a good running setup and get circuit codes, but still drive the vehicle somewhat normally. Your symptoms of poor idle and inconsistent throttle response make me think you have an air metering problem.

I had the same thought about the MAF position. I looked up images of the factory air intake for a 2006 Land Cruiser (Donor) and found that the MAF sensor is oriented the same way as I have it. Still I decided to play with it any. I took an extra tube and extended the air intake pipe but put the MAF sensor on top. I found it didn’t make a difference except when I turned the plug 180 degrees on top it would not run at all.

I do believe that my issues has to do with air metering for fuel delivery. I think between the MAF and A/F Sensors the ecu is not getting the information it needs to run properly.

Although, when both the MAF and A/F Sensors are unplugged the engine runs at all constant Idle but not above 2000 rpm and it idles high at 1000 rpm.

 

[reklund5]

I had the same thought about the MAF position. I looked up images of the factory air intake for a 2006 Land Cruiser (Donor) and found that the MAF sensor is oriented the same way as I have it. Still I decided to play with it any. I took an extra tube and extended the air intake pipe but put the MAF sensor on top. I found it didn’t make a difference except when I turned the plug 180 degrees on top it would not run at all.

I do believe that my issues has to do with air metering for fuel delivery. I think between the MAF and A/F Sensors the ecu is not getting the information it needs to run properly.

Although, when both the MAF and A/F Sensors are unplugged the engine runs at all constant Idle but not above 2000 rpm and it idles high at 1000 rpm.

Did you get your techstream working? You should be able to run a live data list with the engine at idle and see the MAF Volume and we can get an idea of what it is seeing -vs- what it should be seeing.

 

[Tank5]

Did you get your techstream working? You should be able to run a live data list with the engine at idle and see the MAF Volume and we can get an idea of what it is seeing -vs- what it should be seeing.

I have been using the tech stream. I don’t recall what the MAF reads were but can go back and look. Do you know what they should be. I don’t think I have that information, so can’t compare.

 

[reklund5]

I have been using the tech stream. I don’t recall what the MAF reads were but can go back and look. Do you know what they should be. I don’t think I have that information, so can’t compare.

I'll have to hookup to a known good one here and pull some data. I don't have it off the top of my head.

In any case, we need access to a known good one to compare some data as a baseline

 

[alia176]

I'll have to hookup to a known good one here and pull some data. I don't have it off the top of my head.

In any case, we need access to a known good one to compare some data as a baseline

I can find that out for my 4.5 if it helps.

 

[reklund5]

I can find that out for my 4.5 if it helps.

Ideally it'll need to be for the 4.7

Air consumption may not be far off, but differing MAF and intake tube diameters might cause a discrepancy we don't want to go off. I'm working on finding a known good airflow database...

 

[Tank5]

In talking with the harness builder he believes the issue is with the air intake and MAF. I pulled the 80 air box out and installed a big cold air filter on it. Tried driving it but the idle is inconsistent and it still falls on it, face above 2k rpm.

I unplugged the MAF to drive it home. Still could go above 2k rpm but unplugged it at least heals idle.

Here is what I tried. If anyone is able to share there active MAF value readings from a VVTI 2uz that would be helpful or if you know what the factory range is for it that information would be very appreciated.

 

[Tank5]

@reklund5

I have attached the data I can see in tech stream. Some of it It doesn’t mean much to me without a good comparison or knowing what the acceptable spec. Values are. If you or anyone sees something that out of place please point it out. First picture has the MAF data.

I also remember when I hooked up the Tech stream that the ecu I am using is from a 2005 GX 470. The original 2006 LC ecu got cooked by the harness builder when he was programming it, so it was replaced by the with the gx model. I did notice the gx air intake positions the MAF of top rather than the side. I have already tried repositioning it like that but it did not change anything.

 

[reklund5]

Your fuel trims being at zero are weird. It's like the computer isn't using the AF and O2 feedback to adjust at all. I'll try to get some data from a known good vehicle and see what's up.

 

[Tank5]

Your fuel trims being at zero are weird. It's like the computer isn't using the AF and O2 feedback to adjust at all. I'll try to get some data from a known good vehicle and see what's up.

Thank you, I appreciate that. This makes sense to me as the it seems like the computer is just not getting the information it needs provide for the proper fuel and air mixture. The fuel pressure monitored with a gauge at the passenger side fuel rail holds at 40 psi even when the engine is revving through it's erratic idle.

I did throw another new part at it as a just in case. I had ordered an extra throttle position sensor and since I had it on hand I swapped it out. It did not change anything. I also have an extra ecu programmed for this harness, so I swapped them out and there was no change.

I am searching online line for the diagnostic codes for a 2006 Land Cruiser to trouble shoot the circuits. I watched some Utube videos that suggest the MAF should receive about 5 volts but I am measuring 12.4 volts at the plug. I am wondering if this is problematic or not, could it have damaged the MAF? I am not receiving any MAF codes.

The list of all the new oem parts are such:
MAF
Air Fuel sensors both
Throttle position switch
Fuel pump
2 ecu's programmed the same

 

[DivByZero]

I am searching online line for the diagnostic codes for a 2006 Land Cruiser to trouble shoot the circuits. I watched some Utube videos that suggest the MAF should receive about 5 volts but I am measuring 12.4 volts at the plug. I am wondering if this is problematic or not, could it have damaged the MAF? I am not receiving any MAF codes.

You'll find full service materials for the 2UZ in the 2006 LC here:

https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/PZ471-Z0020-CA/htmlweb/contents/index3.html

Specifically here's the wiring diagram info for the engine control:

https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/PZ471-Z0020-CA/htmlweb/ewd/ewd602e/m_overall/overall/l_08.pdf

And here's the diagnostic guide for code P0031:

https://toyotamanuals.gitlab.io/PZ471-Z0020-CA/htmlweb/rm/rm1113e/m_di_0035.pdf

It looks to me from the wiring diagram, you should expect 12.4v at pin3 (+B) on the MAF.

 

[alia176]

The atmospheric gauge PSI (PSIG) at our elevation should be near 12.xx ish,.no? Yours says 3!

 

[Tank5]

It looks to me from the wiring diagram, you should expect 12.4v at pin3 (+B) on the MAF.

I getting 12.4 volts at Pin 1
I have a bound copy of the LC EWD for a 2006 and it shows the MAFF B+ is Pin 1.

I had found as was looking over the diagnostics in from the link you sent me and it appears that what is refenced in those materials are not consistent with 2006. 2004 and earlier have a different MAFF, so I would expect it is probably wired different.

MAF Diagram from my 2006 manual.

 

[Tank5]

I think I have figured out the problem. I talked to the harness builder who felt it had to be Air or Fuel related. I focused on the air side of things. I took the small cold air filter off of my 2uz swapped 45 and installed it on the 80. It seemed to have solved the issue. Here is what I believe I found was the issue. The intake pipe I built to connect the throttle body to the air box is 3.5”ID which matches the throttle body and airbox outlet. The filter from the 45 is smaller at the neck 3”. In looking at the stock air filter setups for this engine it appears the section of tube the MAF is placed in is about 3”. My theory is that the larger 3.5” tube is not allowing the MAF to read correctly.

The intake on my 45 2uz is also 3” ID with a adapter to fit it to the throttle body.

After digging through the shed I found enough junk to fit it all together for a solid test. That Silver pipe is pushed all the way up to the MAF sensor, so feed to the sensor is necked down to 3”.

We got 8” of snow today, and it is still coming down. If it clears some I may drive it tonight or tomorrow.

I am still getting P0031and P0051 codes, the sensors are new, so I just need to troubleshoot that.

I appreciate everyone’s help and advice to help me work through this.

 

[alia176]

Solid sleuthing amigo

 

[Tank5]

I consider this temporary until I remake the intake tube, but it allows me to reinstall the 80 filter box and use the intake tube that I have.

I used a 3” piece of aluminum intake tube, cut a roughly 1/2 inch piece of thick rubber hose that is 3” ID and 3.5” OD. I slid that over the tube and it gets trapped between the intake tube and airbox tube outlet. The aluminum insert is extended to that MAF, so it serves to restrict the flow. Installed and in the garage it seems to be operating properly. Hope to test drive it tomorrow.

 

[reklund5]

Nice work!!

 

[Tank5]

Well, my temporary fix for the air intake works well in the garage but on a test drive today it didn’t go well. It ran better than prior attempts but just had no acceleration and stumbled at times, couldn’t get above 3rd gear. Under load it has no guts, sitting I the garage no load the throttle response is good. I am not sure if there is something else going on. I need to rebuild the intake pipe sooner than later, so I can sort it out.