Build US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 2uz/h151f swap

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Another idea to try, track down an 05 GX MAF and intake tube to try out.

If you have the wrong MAF cal, it’s probably that one.

Edit: As I type this, I’m thinking about how I would handle tuning a Manual swapped LS vehicle. I would start with a base calibration from a vehicle that came stock with a manual. Do you know what base (starting point) calibration your tuner used?

-Rob
 
Tank5 said:
I wanted to share it here first that I am going to offer this for sale after I get it sorted. Final price will depend on how deep I ultimately end I am and how it is sold. If anyone is interested you welcome to send me a pm.
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Pm sent. I’d consider taking it as-is
 
This thread popped up and I read all 18 pages of it! Interesting to see one of my threads tagged as well.

My GX470 has had MAF issues on and off for some time. I've had to replace the MAF pigtail twice, and I watch MAF readings to Torque Pro to have some indication of how the engine is running. Your MAF readings seem pretty low to me. They should be 1 gram per second per liter, or 4.7 g/sec. Most of yours appear to be in the range of 3, which is around 30% lower than it should be. If it is getting way more air than it thinks it should, you'd have high fuel trims as the motor would be running quite lean. So, I agree that it seems to be a MAF/intake issue. If you have a GX470 ECU, I agree on trying a VVTI GX470 air intake setup for it and seeing what happens.

Also, which MAF do you have? Looks like the GX470 MAF is shared with the VVTI LX470/LC100 and V8 4Runner (along with the later GX460/LX570/LC200), but not the Tundra/Sequoia of the same generation. I have a Hitachi MAF0103 in mine, which is the OEM sensor.
 
I have not had time to work on this until now.

I swapped out the MAP sensor for a new Toyota. Part specific for the 2006 LC. I made sure it is in the same orientation as it would have been it. Installed it with a new Filter to keep it clean. I located the filter just in front of the intake so I won’t have to pull the intake to swap it.

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Fuel Trims after are still high.
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RivMan said:
Another idea to try, track down an 05 GX MAF and intake tube to try out.

If you have the wrong MAF cal, it’s probably that one.

Edit: As I type this, I’m thinking about how I would handle tuning a Manual swapped LS vehicle. I would start with a base calibration from a vehicle that came stock with a manual. Do you know what base (starting point) calibration your tuner used?

-Rob
Click to expand...

Hey Rob, thanks again for the thoughts. The 2UZ VVTI did not come as a manual in any market that I am aware of , so finding a factory tune for it as a manual is not an option.

The set up I have is no different than the gx470 intake set. Cross referencing the MAF sensor across the LC, LX, GX, and 4runner that came with the 2uz VVTI all use the same MAF sensor.

Rednexus said:
This thread popped up and I read all 18 pages of it! Interesting to see one of my threads tagged as well.

My GX470 has had MAF issues on and off for some time. I've had to replace the MAF pigtail twice, and I watch MAF readings to Torque Pro to have some indication of how the engine is running. Your MAF readings seem pretty low to me. They should be 1 gram per second per liter, or 4.7 g/sec. Most of yours appear to be in the range of 3, which is around 30% lower than it should be. If it is getting way more air than it thinks it should, you'd have high fuel trims as the motor would be running quite lean. So, I agree that it seems to be a MAF/intake issue. If you have a GX470 ECU, I agree on trying a VVTI GX470 air intake setup for it and seeing what happens.

Also, which MAF do you have? Looks like the GX470 MAF is shared with the VVTI LX470/LC100 and V8 4Runner (along with the later GX460/LX570/LC200), but not the Tundra/Sequoia of the same generation. I have a Hitachi MAF0103 in mine, which is the OEM sensor.
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See post above but I found that the MAF for the LC, LX, GX, 4runner 2uz VVTI show two part numbers 22204-75030 replaced by 22204-0F030. I have both of these MAF sensors and both perform equally.

The intake I am using is from a LX470 but see that all models use the same MAF I don’t see that switching out the intake for one off of a GX is going to make a difference.

I have previously replaced the MAF plug because I was getting a low voltage code on MAF circuit after which has not returned. Maybe there is still an issue with the MAF circuit but I did test it following the manual troubleshooting procedures and it all tested in spec. That leave the ecu as the potential issue but that would mean that I have two bad ecu’s because I bought and extra for this set up. I am back to thinking about buying a fresh programmed ecu from a different vender.

I am not able to work on this like I was, so I have got time to consider my next step.
 
It has been months since I have been able to work on this. It is a little hard to remember what my next steps should be so, I ordered an intake tube between the air box and throttle body from a gx470 to match the ecu. I really did not expect it to make a difference but wanted to make sure the air intake was all stock, so it is now.

It is still running lean when viewing the live data in tech stream. There are no troubles codes showing after a short drive and it still drives as if it is severely underpowered.

I am going see if I can find a shop that has better tools than I have who would be willing to try a diagnose it.

If anyone has any shop ideas in New Mexico or close by please share them. I would also be interested in sending my ecu of to get looked at. I heard someone else was having an issue and they found their ecu had been corrupted causing their issue. I would like to get another opinion if there is an ecu guru out there somewhere.
 
Tank5 said:
It has been months since I have been able to work on this. It is a little hard to remember what my next steps should be so, I ordered an intake tube between the air box and throttle body from a gx470 to match the ecu. I really did not expect it to make a difference but wanted to make sure the air intake was all stock, so it is now.

It is still running lean when viewing the live data in tech stream. There are no troubles codes showing after a short drive and it still drives as if it is severely underpowered.

I am going see if I can find a shop that has better tools than I have who would be willing to try a diagnose it.

If anyone has any shop ideas in New Mexico or close by please share them. I would also be interested in sending my ecu of to get looked at. I heard someone else was having an issue and they found their ecu had been corrupted causing their issue. I would like to get another opinion if there is an ecu guru out there somewhere.
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Nice to see your back at it Denis
I was just talking about this build today 😎
 
Tank5 said:
It has been months since I have been able to work on this. It is a little hard to remember what my next steps should be so, I ordered an intake tube between the air box and throttle body from a gx470 to match the ecu. I really did not expect it to make a difference but wanted to make sure the air intake was all stock, so it is now.

It is still running lean when viewing the live data in tech stream. There are no troubles codes showing after a short drive and it still drives as if it is severely underpowered.

I am going see if I can find a shop that has better tools than I have who would be willing to try a diagnose it.

If anyone has any shop ideas in New Mexico or close by please share them. I would also be interested in sending my ecu of to get looked at. I heard someone else was having an issue and they found their ecu had been corrupted causing their issue. I would like to get another opinion if there is an ecu guru out there somewhere.
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Get a hold of Tim at lexus V8 Engines, hes been beyond helpful getting some of my ECU and wireing questions sorted out and is currently working over my UZ harness and ECU. hes fairly active here as well

@LexusV8 Engines

lexusv8.com

Lexus V8 Engines LLC

ECU flashing to suit your build as well as Immobilizer OFF
lexusv8.com lexusv8.com
 
I’ve gone through your thread, but it’s 18 pages long, and I’m trying to get a clear picture of your setup. Could you please summarize the full drivetrain build so we can assess everything properly?


Please list out the following details:


  • Engine: 2UZ-FE VVT
  • Transmission: manual
  • Transfer Case: (model and type, if applicable)
  • Air Injection: Deleted: Yes/No
  • Electrical Changes: (how was the air injection handled — wiring removed, blocked, or simulated?)
  • ECU: (programmed for manual? immobilizer deleted? any tune applied?)
  • Fuel & Air Setup: (MAF type, intake, injectors, fuel pump setup, etc.)
  • Other Modifications: (exhaust, throttle body, coils, O2 sensors, etc.)
  • Did we do your wiring or who / how was it done?
  • Live Data or transmission.
  • Throttle angle with pedal depressed. Does it open fully?

Also, please post three photos of the engine bay — front, left, and right — so we can confirm routing and connector placement.


I did notice a few inaccuracies in the discussion thread. The air injection system can be fully deleted in the ECU, and the ECU itself is entirely programmable — it can be converted for manual transmission and tuned specifically for your setup.
Keep in mind that wiring, fuel delivery, air supply, and ignition components all affect performance, so having an accurate picture of your system will help a lot in diagnosing your power issue.


Nice swap — great choice of engine.
 
Hey Tim, this Dennis in New Mexico. You know this build well, the harness and ecu are from you. I will answer your questions though you know the answers already but it has been a while since we have discussed this. My responses are in bold italics following your questions.

I will add the most current photos when I get home.

  • Engine: 2UZ-FE VVT / Yes
  • Transmission: manual / Yes H151F
  • Transfer Case: (model and type, if applicable) / 100 Series Tcase with 80 series CDL swap
  • Air Injection: Deleted: Yes/No / Yes
  • Electrical Changes: (how was the air injection handled — wiring removed, blocked, or simulated?) / Deleted in ECU and wiring removed
  • ECU: (programmed for manual? immobilizer deleted? any tune applied?) ECU programmed for manual, immobilizer deleted and an enhanced tune was added, this was your work.
  • Fuel & Air Setup: (MAF type, intake, injectors, fuel pump setup, etc.) / New Toyota MAF, Stock Air intake, stock injectors cleaned and tested, fuel pump new OEM Toyota, Fuel lines stock.
  • Other Modifications: (exhaust, throttle body, coils, O2 sensors, etc.) / 100 series exhaust, cats deleted, 2nd o2 sensor deleted for both sides.
  • Did we do your wiring or who / how was it done? /You did the wiring and ECU programming
  • Live Data or transmission. ??
  • Throttle angle with pedal depressed. Does it open fully? / No it only opens half way. I gone through numerous relearning process and swapped out the pedal sensor. I have also swapped out the throttle body. The response never changes.
Would love to know if you have any new thoughts.
 
Ok. I will be sending you a few tests to do via email and send you a replacement ECU if necessary. This sounds like an incomplete air injection delete fault to be honest. Basically, going into limp mode. This is not accelerator pedal or throttle body issue.
 
That last bit of info. Sounds like limp mode too.
Oem air injection issues often light up a different set of lights then just the cel.
 
LexusV8 Engines said:
Ok. I will be sending you a few tests to do via email and send you a replacement ECU if necessary. This sounds like an incomplete air injection delete fault to be honest. Basically, going into limp mode. This is not accelerator pedal or throttle body issue.
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I tested the throttle body and took a video of it. The throttle plate does not open up all the way. I will send you an email with the video.
 
LexusV8 Engines said:
If the air injection is deleted fully then what light would come on other that CEL?
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I can’t fully remember off the top of my head. But factory it will illuminate the 4low light even it’s not.
 
Figured I would add some updates. I spoke to Tim about the issue and he is sure there there is a problem with the SAI delete that is causing the vehicle to go into a limp mode. I have already pulled the harness and act and sent it back to him for rework.

While I anxiously await the harness and ecu return I worked on some other things. The tires that were on this 80 were 15 years old and despite looking fine I figured it was time to replace them. I had also installed a OME 2.5” lift and wanted to move the tire size up a 35” tire. It seems that 17” tires are easier to come buy, so purchased a used set of Method 17 bead grip rims from the forum. For tires I purchased the Toyo Open Country R/T.

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I hoping the V8 will handle them with the current gearing.

I had purchased a JDM interior for this truck and it came with back rear panels that come fitted to use a cargo cover that I thought might be cool to use. The passenger panel had been modified by a PO for two speakers. I don’t want the speaker modification, so opted to replace the cut out with an access door. I will eventually maybe build a cubby in the rear quarter for storage or add some accessories that can be accessed through the door.
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After modifying the panel I found I did not receive all the trim pieces needed to install the privacy shade. Any know someone with access to The idea JDM market that might be able to help me find a piece like this?

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I located and bought the cargo cover pieces I needed to finish the rear cargo trim installation. They are in the mail.

The harness is in shipping and says it will be here tomorrow, FedEx does not have the best track record for me, so I might have it installed this weekend.

I moved up to 35” tires and need to come up with a new spare mount. The only solution that seems workable is to add a swing out or two too the rear bumper. The bumper I have is an early Slee bumper that came without swingouts. I reached out them to see if I could buy their swings and hardware to add to mine or have them do it but that is not something they do.

I will have to build my own, I want it to be as quality a job as I can make to rival or better what Slee would have done but I will build it to look more like their old style with tube.

I went looking for the key parts I will need to build with. Unless I find something better I am planning to use TMR spindles because they are beefy and have a nice billet screw on Cap.

I plan to use the billet latches from Eurowise which appears to be a Porche rally car type company. I really liked the latches, so ordered some to get a look at them. They are really nice and price reflects that. Figured I would share.
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I am not going to start on the bumper until the 80 is running and driving but I am looking forward to building the swing outs when the time comes.
 
I received the Harness and ECU back on Friday spent the night reinstalling and putting the engine bay back together. The issue with the throttle not opening all the way is fixed after changes to the SAI delete were made. The first test drive showed that it is still underpowered (my Tacoma with a 3.4 has more power). Still acts like it is in some sort of limp mode. Drove it about 20 miles and just as I got home it presented a CEL for P0171 and P0174, so lean codes in both banks again. Hooked it up to Techstream and the data shows the following data:
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Smoke test doesn't show any leaks in the intake or planum, fuel pressure is 44-45 at the rail on the passenger side. The entire intake is all oem, with a new oem MAF sensor.

I am in New Mexico and If anyone knows of a reputable shop or tech that will look at a one off build such as this I would be interested in getting another set of eyes with better tools looking at this.

Below I will update everything I have done to date to trouble shoot the potential causes of my lean condition, P0171 and P0174 Limp mode type symptom). Referencing the 2005-2006 Tundra Manual diagnostic section for the 2uz VVTI they identify potential causes as:
  • Air Induction System
  • Injector Blockage
  • MAF
  • Engine Coolant Temp sensor
  • Fuel Pressure
  • Gas Leak in Exhaust System
  • Open or Short in heated oxygen Sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1 Circuit)
  • Heated Oxygen Sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1)
  • Heated Oxygen Sensor heater (bank 1, 2 sensor 1
  • EFI relay
  • PCV Piping
  • ECM
Air induction System
  • Installed oem intake to replicate factory intake system
  • Individually tested each vacuum port by capping each port for a minimum of 10 seconds while watching Fuel Trim (FT) response using tech stream. No changes in FT or audible engine response during tests.
  • Individually tested each vacuum port, planum gaskets, and throttle body gasket by spraying brake cleaner each site while watching Fuel Trim (FT) response using tech stream. No changes in FT or audible engine response during tests.
  • I conducted multiple smoke tests using a smoke machine connecting the machine at the intake and also at the brake booster port. The initial test identified two faint leaks that were clamped. The additional tests of 15 minutes each did not identify any leaks.
  • The throttle body gasket was removed inspected and reused, the Planum gaskets are new OEM, almost all of the hoses have been replaced with new. The hoses left in place are pliable and don’t have any cracking.
  • The live data FT when observed under load did not suggest a vacuum leak.
Injector Blockage
  • All 8 injectors were removed, tested then cleaned and retested. None of the injectors showed any significant blockage and performed equally before and after the ultra sonic cleaning.
  • I cleaned a second set of injectors for the same engine as a comparison. They tested similarly to original injectors but their performance was slightly lower which is why I reinstalled the original injectors
  • I installed new oem insulators and o-rings when the injectors were installed. I did not have screens, but was able to visually inspect them and flush them to ensure they were clear of debris.
MAF
  • I purchased a new OEM MAF sensor and have also rotated through a used unit for comparison testing.
  • Both MAF have been cleaned with MAF cleaner spray
  • The MAF is installed in the factory intake and the gasket is intact, no leaks
  • I followed the oem diagnostic steps to test the MAF circuit. It tested in spec.
  • There was a low voltage on the MAF circuit early in the diagnostic process. The MAF plug was replaced and the symptom has not returned
Engine Coolant Temp Sensor
  • The Sensor plug was checked and it is seated all the way.
  • The sensor reports a reasonable temp of 192 degrees as viewed in Tech Stream. Believe to be operating as it should.
Fuel Pressure
  • The Fuel Pump and filter have been replaced with new oem units.
  • The fuel pressure has been tested at idle and underload. With the fuel pressure regulator capped the pressure measured 45-46 psi. With the FPR attached to the intake is running 42-44 psi at idle.
  • The fuel pump receives it’s power from the ECU as the trigger
Gas Leak Exhaust System
  • The manifolds are Doug Thorgely Headers designed for this engine with the SAI tube deleted. They were installed with new oem manifold gaskets. Upon inspection all header bolts are torqued and I could not locate any leaks upstream of the Air Fuel Sensors.
  • Just above the headers on the heads are the port holes for Secondary Air Injection system which I deleted. The port holes were tapped and sealed with a high heat thread sealer. I found 2 on each side that could be torques tighter, so they were. No signs of a leak were obvious. There was no change in the FT after the plugs were torqued.
Open or Short in heated oxygen Sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1 Circuit)
  • Have not tested for a short in the heater circuit for this sensor
  • I identified neither circuit was receiving B+ power and found the circuit was never wired up. I wired both up to the intended sensor circuit. This eliminated the trouble codes I was receiving for the circuit.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (bank 1, 2 sensor 1)
  • Both Bank 1 and 2 sensor 1 Air Fuel sensors were replaced with new oem units.
  • They are reporting in Tech Stream and appear to be working and can been seen responding to induced lean conditions using the brake pedal. They appear to be working correctly.
EFI relay

The harness and ecm were customized to build a stand alone harness. My Fuel Pump receives power from the ECU.

PCV Piping
  • The PCV and hose has been replaced with new oem units.
  • This was tested during various vaccuum leak tests through all methods described previously. It was not identified as a possible leak.
ECM
  • The harness and ecm were customized to build a stand alone harness. I purchased a second ECM that has been set up almost exactly the same way.
  • I have switched out ECM’s but both perform equally
Timing
  • The timing belt was replaced as part of the build. The timing marks were confirmed twice at the time of installation.
  • I recently pulled the cam covers and reconfirmed the timing marks are still aligned and they were.
Planum Replaced
  • Replaced planum with a clean used planum from a previous running engine.
  • Installed new planum gaskets
Throttle Body
  • Body was not opening up completely about 1/3
  • Swapped for a second throttle body that performed the same way
  • Sent the Harness and ecu back to builder who made changes to harness related to the SAI delete and this corrected the issue, the throttle body opens all the way now
 
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