Build US Spec. February 1990 Poverty 80 2uz/h151f swap

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I have been sorting out how I want to wire up the elockers. This 91 doesn't have any provisions in the harness or cluster for factory elockers. I would like to install them using factory components. I am looking at using the factory elocker ecu and either the dial switch or two relabeled center diff lock switches. I won't be using this 80 as an aggressive wheeler and started wondering if wiring it up with separate Front and Rear switchs is beneficial. I am mostly debating this because the dial switch would be easier and already has a space in the dash leaving the other switch spots open for other options. Thoughts, is the dial adequate for mild wheeling or did Toyota miss an opportunity to make the locker switch independent?
 
While having the option to engage front or rear lockers separately is nice and can be helpful.
It’s definitely is not necessary even for hard core wheeling/rock crawling. IMO

Especially not need for a casual wheeler again IMO

My OEM locker’s still operate as Mr T intended. Back first then the front and I hit some pretty hard trails.
 
Broski said:
While having the option to engage front or rear lockers separately is nice and can be helpful.
It’s definitely is not necessary even for hard core wheeling/rock crawling. IMO

Especially not need for a casual wheeler again IMO

My OEM locker’s still operate as Mr T intended. Back first then the front and I hit some pretty hard trails.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feed back. Your 80 is built far more than I intend to build this one. If the stock switch works for your rig it will be fine for this one.

The stock switch would simplify things, so most likely what I will do. Unless someone else has a different thought that is convincing.
 
samc2447 said:
There's a few places that sell harnesses for trucks that didn't have the factory provisions and use relays. You could easily build it yourself and use the factory switch, no need to complicate things with the factory computer.
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I looked at a few of the aftermarket options and some of the diagrams others posted up in various threads. I have the factory ecu and the majority of the factory harness Pieces that I pulled out of a truck parted out. If I am using the factory switch the factory ecu doesn’t seem complicated at all, it already has a home and a bunch of it will just plug in together. I just have tie it into the power source and figure out how I want to see the indicator lights placed. I might look to see if I can add the locker icons to the cluster.
 
Tank5 said:
I looked at a few of the aftermarket options and some of the diagrams others posted up in various threads. I have the factory ecu and the majority of the factory harness Pieces that I pulled out of a truck parted out. If I am using the factory switch the factory ecu doesn’t seem complicated at all, it already has a home and a bunch of it will just plug in together. I just have tie it into the power source and figure out how I want to see the indicator lights placed. I might look to see if I can add the locker icons to the cluster.
Click to expand...
You should find the icons are there in the cluster already, you just need to install the bulbs.
 
DivByZero said:
You should find the icons are there in the cluster already, you just need to install the bulbs.
Click to expand...
I'm think not as E-lockers were not available in North America until 1993.
When did you get them in Australia ?
 
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DivByZero said:
You should find the icons are there in the cluster already, you just need to install the bulbs.
Click to expand...
I have looked they are not there on this cluster. The center diff is there but that is it.
 
I could really use some help here. I received the harness for this build from the harness builder and for the second time it will not run. I have been working with the person that built the stand alone harness trying to diagnose the Issue. I have gone through a number of tests and replaced some sensors with new or known functioning units to test it. Currently I have purchased two ecu's to use with this harness and they do not perform consistently. One ecu has allowed the engine to fire but then die within a second. The other ecu does not fire the engine. I am going to outline the engine history, harness purchase specs./history, and then everything that I have done to sort it out.

Engine
The engine, 2uzfe VVTI, last ran in 2017 when the PO took their 2006 100 series to Tor Fab to have a diesel swapped into it. The Engine has 106K miles on it and was running and driving before it was pulled.

Engine Harness
I sent the original harness off to be built into a stand alone harness in 2022, I received it back in January 2023. The build specs. were make it stand alone for a Manual transmission, delete the immobilizer and install a theft deterrent system. The builder test ran the harness before he shipped it to me and it ran at that time. I installed a Hewitt Tech SAI delete kit when I received the harness back. The engine would turn over strong but would not fire the engine. The theft deterrent system that was installed was not operating as it should, so we suspected it was causing the problem. I pulled the harness and ecu and sent it back for diagnosis and to make some changes. I also ordered a second ECU to use as a back up too.

I received the harness back but the builder was not able to test run the harness after making the changes, said his 2uz vvti engine was inoperable. The harness with additional ECU were sent back and I just received them a few weeks ago. The two ECU's do not present the same way, so I will refer to them as ECU A and ECU B to work through the various trouble shooting.

Symptoms
Initially neither ECU would start the truck. ECU A presented a P0335 Code while ECU B Presented a P0705 Code. Since the operation of the transmission was deleted from the ECU I choose to focus on ECU A.

Working with ECU A
  • I swapped in a Crank Sensor from a running engine, no change
  • I then tested continuity on the crank sensor wires from the sensor to the ECU, both had continuity
  • The wire sheath on one wire at the crank sensor plug was suspect, so I removed the suspect section and installed a new plug
  • No longer receiving the P0335 code after clearing the code with the scan gauge
  • I bought and installed a brand new battery
  • ECU A would then fire the engine but it would die after a second
  • I have checked all the grounds Multiple times and even removed the harness to make sure I was not missing a stray ground somewhere.
  • The stand alone harness only requires four wires to make it run, one to the battery, one to the fuel pump, one to the starter and one to the ignition - power ecu. I have double checked all this wiring and confirmed it is correct.
  • I have checked all the associated fuses, all good
  • All the vacuum lines are attached
  • I did reach out Hewitt Tech, share pictures of the installation and per their experience if the SAI delete was having an issue it would present a code but not prevent the engine from running. I am not getting an codes.
  • I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and found it maintains 45-46 psi (stock spec.) while trying to start and when it does start for a second. The blead down test shows it holds at 40 psi at 10 minutes.
  • I purchased a new Air Flow Meter specific to the vin from the 100 series donor truck, no change
  • The terminal lock within the Air Flow Meter plug was not completely seated and I could not get it to seat, so I ordered a new plug and will replace the plug to make sure all of the pins are in place and making contact.
ECU B
  • This ECU so far will not fire the engine.
  • The only change has been that it does not consistently produce the P0705 code after it is cleared.
This is where I am at and I am choosing to focus my efforts on getting ECU A to work since it starts but won't run longer than a second. Just to summarize I am not getting any codes, it is getting air with a new AFM, getting fuel and the proper pressure, and at least getting spark enough to start it up for a second. I don't want to throw parts at it more than I already have, so I am looking to lean on other experience.

My next step is to check the timing marks, although it was a running engine before, so I don't see why it would be off. That is pending any thoughts or suggestions I receive here. If I end up taking the front apart to inspect the timing marks I will end up replacing the timing belt and water pump at that time but would prefer not to make any changes until I can figure out why it is not starting.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Tank5 said:
I could really use some help here. I received the harness for this build from the harness builder and for the second time it will not run. I have been working with the person that built the stand alone harness trying to diagnose the Issue. I have gone through a number of tests and replaced some sensors with new or known functioning units to test it. Currently I have purchased two ecu's to use with this harness and they do not perform consistently. One ecu has allowed the engine to fire but then die within a second. The other ecu does not fire the engine. I am going to outline the engine history, harness purchase specs./history, and then everything that I have done to sort it out.

Engine
The engine, 2uzfe VVTI, last ran in 2017 when the PO took their 2006 100 series to Tor Fab to have a diesel swapped into it. The Engine has 106K miles on it and was running and driving before it was pulled.

Engine Harness
I sent the original harness off to be built into a stand alone harness in 2022, I received it back in January 2023. The build specs. were make it stand alone for a Manual transmission, delete the immobilizer and install a theft deterrent system. The builder test ran the harness before he shipped it to me and it ran at that time. I installed a Hewitt Tech SAI delete kit when I received the harness back. The engine would turn over strong but would not fire the engine. The theft deterrent system that was installed was not operating as it should, so we suspected it was causing the problem. I pulled the harness and ecu and sent it back for diagnosis and to make some changes. I also ordered a second ECU to use as a back up too.

I received the harness back but the builder was not able to test run the harness after making the changes, said his 2uz vvti engine was inoperable. The harness with additional ECU were sent back and I just received them a few weeks ago. The two ECU's do not present the same way, so I will refer to them as ECU A and ECU B to work through the various trouble shooting.

Symptoms
Initially neither ECU would start the truck. ECU A presented a P0335 Code while ECU B Presented a P0705 Code. Since the operation of the transmission was deleted from the ECU I choose to focus on ECU A.

Working with ECU A
  • I swapped in a Crank Sensor from a running engine, no change
  • I then tested continuity on the crank sensor wires from the sensor to the ECU, both had continuity
  • The wire sheath on one wire at the crank sensor plug was suspect, so I removed the suspect section and installed a new plug
  • No longer receiving the P0335 code after clearing the code with the scan gauge
  • I bought and installed a brand new battery
  • ECU A would then fire the engine but it would die after a second
  • I have checked all the grounds Multiple times and even removed the harness to make sure I was not missing a stray ground somewhere.
  • The stand alone harness only requires four wires to make it run, one to the battery, one to the fuel pump, one to the starter and one to the ignition - power ecu. I have double checked all this wiring and confirmed it is correct.
  • I have checked all the associated fuses, all good
  • All the vacuum lines are attached
  • I did reach out Hewitt Tech, share pictures of the installation and per their experience if the SAI delete was having an issue it would present a code but not prevent the engine from running. I am not getting an codes.
  • I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and found it maintains 45-46 psi (stock spec.) while trying to start and when it does start for a second. The blead down test shows it holds at 40 psi at 10 minutes.
  • I purchased a new Air Flow Meter specific to the vin from the 100 series donor truck, no change
  • The terminal lock within the Air Flow Meter plug was not completely seated and I could not get it to seat, so I ordered a new plug and will replace the plug to make sure all of the pins are in place and making contact.
ECU B
  • This ECU so far will not fire the engine.
  • The only change has been that it does not consistently produce the P0705 code after it is cleared.
This is where I am at and I am choosing to focus my efforts on getting ECU A to work since it starts but won't run longer than a second. Just to summarize I am not getting any codes, it is getting air with a new AFM, getting fuel and the proper pressure, and at least getting spark enough to start it up for a second. I don't want to throw parts at it more than I already have, so I am looking to lean on other experience.

My next step is to check the timing marks, although it was a running engine before, so I don't see why it would be off. That is pending any thoughts or suggestions I receive here. If I end up taking the front apart to inspect the timing marks I will end up replacing the timing belt and water pump at that time but would prefer not to make any changes until I can figure out why it is not starting.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...
I sent you a message. I Might be able to help.
 
The start and almost immediate shutoff seems like an immobilizer/theft deterrent issue. I'm confused if you are still getting this with just the bare harness? In these situations I find it best to get it running on the bare harness, then add the other components one at a time to verify all is good. So remove the SAI harness and secondary theft deterrent and try to get it running that way with fewer variables. Add those back in one at a time after it runs.
 
samc2447 said:
The start and almost immediate shutoff seems like an immobilizer/theft deterrent issue. I'm confused if you are still getting this with just the bare harness? In these situations I find it best to get it running on the bare harness, then add the other components one at a time to verify all is good. So remove the SAI harness and secondary theft deterrent and try to get it running that way with fewer variables. Add those back in one at a time after it runs.
Click to expand...

The oem immobilizer was deleted by the harness builder. This was done when they flashed the ecu. The other theft deterrent system has been removed.

The SAI delete kit is still installed.

I ordered a cable and techstream software, so that I will hopefully be able to see more of what is happening in the ecu. The scan gauge I am looking for codes with only does so much. Since I am not getting any codes, I am hoping techstream software will give me more information than I can see now. I am going to wait for this before I make anymore changes.

Thanks for the ideas.
 
Tank5 said:
I have been sorting out how I want to wire up the elockers. This 91 doesn't have any provisions in the harness or cluster for factory elockers. I would like to install them using factory components. I am looking at using the factory elocker ecu and either the dial switch or two relabeled center diff lock switches. I won't be using this 80 as an aggressive wheeler and started wondering if wiring it up with separate Front and Rear switchs is beneficial. I am mostly debating this because the dial switch would be easier and already has a space in the dash leaving the other switch spots open for other options. Thoughts, is the dial adequate for mild wheeling or did Toyota miss an opportunity to make the locker switch independent?
Click to expand...
Years ago I did a factory install of factory e-lockers in a 1992.

I used the 92 dash with a 93 locker stencil and wired in the lights.

The challenging part was wiring in the speed sensor. Which is there even though it’s a cable speedometer.

In the end it’s been flawless
 
landtank said:
Years ago I did a factory install of factory e-lockers in a 1992.

I used the 92 dash with a 93 locker stencil and wired in the lights.

The challenging part was wiring in the speed sensor. Which is there even though it’s a cable speedometer.

In the end it’s been flawless
Click to expand...

I put the locker wiring on the back burner until I can make it run. I have another cluster and hoped I would be able to swap the dash stencil from it until the 91.

I have not sorted out the speed sensor yet but when I do I may reach to you if it gives me difficulty.
 
I am waiting on my Techstream cable to arrive, so I tried something else. I had another ecu that had not been flashed or had the immobilizer deleted. I plugged it in and did not expect the engine to run but hoped it might read something and present a code I was not getting from the other flashed ecus.

It did start the engine which dies immediately every time. The only codes I get are related to the transmission which I would expect since all the transmission systems have been deleted from the harness for the manual transmission.

I then tried both of the flashed ecus but now neither of them will fire the engine, still no codes.
 
My Techstream software and cable finally arrived. I got it all installed and was able to use it today. I am obviously a novice with the TIS software but so far the only faults I am seeing are for low voltage on the MAF and Crank Sensor Circuits, it is showing 10.2 volts. I have confirmed that the ECU is receiving 12.1 volts and the stand alone relay box for the harness is receiving 12.4 volts. I expect that there is something damaged within the harness or ecu that is preventing the two circuits from receiving the voltage needed to operate.

Looking at the wiring diagram I do not see that the MAF and CS are interconnected at all, so I don't know. I reached out to the vender that built the harness and am waiting for their response.
 
It runs !!!!

I received the harness back from the builder after exhausting my diagnostic abilities. It turns out I was on the right track but didn’t have the right stuff to pinpoint the problem. One of the pins in the plug that interfaces with the ecu on the crank sensor circuit was not making contact or it was very poor. The pin was removed and replaced which solved the problem.

I reinstalled the harness for the 5th or 6th time tonight and it fired right up and ran. Very excited to have this behind me. The rest is pretty straightforward just a lot of work. I should start having some regular updates.
 
I am waiting on parts to swap to swap the timing belt, originally I was not going to do it as it done 16k ago but the belt is 7 years now, so I am going to swap it out.

I had been pondering my placement of the power steering reservoir and then decided to move it. This will open up the space for a second battery or an air compressor not sure yet. While I wait in parts I got busy building g a new mount for the reservoir.

First placement
IMG_8050.webp


New placement
IMG_2637.webp

I repurposed the rubber bushing from and another air box for mounting it. Just needs paint.
IMG_2636.webp
 
I got the timing belt done and the engine back to gather, so I could run it and confirm my work. It runs as it did before, so I can finally put the rest of it back together again and get to finishing up the wiring.

I am pretty happy with the relocation of the power steering reservoir. Glad I did this while I had it all apart.

Progress pictures because updates with out photos are kinda boring.

IMG_2671.webp


IMG_2679.webp
 
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