Upper Control Arm Ball Joint - Help (1 Viewer)

[notgoodenough]

Hey all, Had a half successful half frustrating day today while trying to replace my stock upper control arms with SPC arms. I started on the passenger side, I used a 5 ton puller which wouldn't make the ball joint budge, then I can't tell you how many times I hit the damn ball joint with my 3lb ball peen hammer. Really giving it to her. OK frustrated I moved to the drivers side. It took two swings to get the ball joint to pop right loose. Replaced the upper control arm on the drivers side no problem. Cracked a beer, went back tot he passenger side and couldn't get it to budge. I used a 5 ton two arm puller to no success, I broke a 2 ton 3 arm puller, sheared one of the arms right off. I am at a loss at what to do. Any suggestions?

Also, I had a hard time getting the new SPC ball joint knuckle to sit all the way down, any ideas to make that easier on passenger side? I was able to get it to sit pretty well on the drivers side. Does it need to be driven to really get situated? I did not put any grease on the knuckle, but will put grease in both zerks once I have both arms installed.

My last resort here would be to take it to a shop, but I probably shouldn't be driving with one OEM control arm and one SPC control arm?

Thanks!

 

[caffecapri]

Can you rent the free tool (pickle fork iirc) at your local auto parts store ? Should make your life easier for the removal.

 

[2000UZJ]

My last resort here would be to take it to a shop, but I probably shouldn't be driving with one OEM control arm and one SPC control arm?

That won't matter, the truck doesn't know what's installed or not. As long as the alignment is good, it'll drive just fine. These trucks are getting old, I think it's safe to say that your passenger side is seized. Have you tried heat?

 

[notgoodenough]

Good idea, looks like my local auto zone has a 5 piece set I can pickup. I will do that tomorrow and report back.

I have not tried heat, the days here in Seattle are around 45-50. How would I go about heating it?

Also, for my knowledge, what is the red circled part called, I want to call it an "arm" but I know that we already call the upper control arm the arm.

 

[87warrior]

The circled part is the knuckle.

My suggestion: Remove the cotter pin and move the castle nut to the end of the ball joint threads. Disconnect the speed sensor wiring from the upper control arm and move it away from the ball joint. Use a MAPP gas torch (easily found at a hardware store) to heat the very top of the knuckle. Once the top of the knuckle is good and hot, smack that flat surface at the top of the knuckle with a heavy hammer. The ball joint will separate from the knuckle.

 

[2000UZJ]

I have not tried heat, the days here in Seattle are around 45-50. How would I go about heating it?

A torch would be a good start, if you don't have one of those you could try a heat gun, but may not get hot enough. I have one that get's to 1500*F, but I haven't tried using it to heat up car parts to break loose.

Take your 3lb hammer, and like @87warrior said, back the castle nut off a smidge and take the

Spoiler: nevermind, don't click this.

knuckle to pound town

Hopefully a few good hits (it might take a few dozen to be honest will pop that lose. The castle nut will help keep everything from falling apart and damaging other components if that balljoint finally let's go out of the knuckle.

 

[flintknapper]

Don't hit the 'Ball Joint', strike the steering knuckle boss.

Do yourself a favor and 'Back Up' the spot you are hitting with another (preferably heavier hammer) so that the energy is fully transferred.

See example below: