Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (1 Viewer)

[bwakeling]

Got it thanks!

 

[RFB]

A few days ago I finished the install of the new 150amp alternator. The quality, fit & finish of the bracket is impressive: hats off to Bill!.
I have one single suggestion to “improve” it, which would be using metric bolts and nuts instead of standard. This simple mod will keep everything as OEM, and simplier (less tools), as possible.
The install isn't complicated as long the job is taken with patience and following Bill's intructions to the letter. However, I dread the moment when I would have to replace the belts. The ones on the rig are almost new and I do not see how these can be replaced without taking the alternator of the support/bracket and tipping it back with the new belts on the pulley (Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp). A real PITA job to just replacing the belts.
Obviously, either an ½ inch longer after market belt or an smaller pulley (8% reduced diameter?) would make things easier. If Bill decides to make another batch of these, I would buy one from him without hesitation. Count me in.
In addition to the bracket, these are the parts I've used.

Alternator part # 270600F05084
From Napa:
150 amp Fuse block: part #782-1143
150 amp fuse: 782-1138
4 gauge wire & terminals
Assorted stock of corrugated pipe, shrink tube, zip ties, etc
Lisle 56599 terminal removal tool (for the new connector/plug)

The difference the new alternator has already made is significant-to say the least: no more light dimming at night while at idle, no hesitation of the A/C fan at full speed, quicker up&down on all windows....while the SPAL aux fan is at work. Clearly, the old 80amp alternator , while incredibly reliable, couldn't keep up with current loads. I just hope the new alternator is as reliable as the old (that's why I went with a new one)
All things considered, I recommend this mod without reservations.
Cheers
fj80pb

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Let me ask, what bolts would you switch to metric and what size. I ask because Im about to do an oil leak repair and while Im in there swap out the alternator have had all the arts for a while its time .

 

[RFB]

Joesy1972
The first thing to know about alternators is that many are made to operate for a limited time at their full capacity.
Think of it in the terms of a vehicle, there are plenty of cars that can attain over 100 MPH, but likely won't last as long if operated at their maximum speed all day.
Your list of anticipated loads has two large demands for your original alternator.
The inverter calculates out to over 66 amps at full output (800/12).
Winch ~ 300+ amps - albeit short term use.
Fridge and other items not too big, although if you are parked camping for several days and have pulled a lot out of your dual battery setup, the alternator is going to have a big job recharging the two batteries.
Speaking of batteries, if you haven't already researched them you will want the starting/deep cycle combination style.
A dual battery setup with properly sized cables, isolator, high capacity switches and charge monitoring is not cheap.
The Blue Sea System Circuit Wizard is a great app for finding your cable sizes. One feature I like is it is can calculate the effect of increased temps of under hood operation with the 'Installed in Engine Room' calculation.
You will need to increase the cable size from the alternator to the battery and install a higher amperage fuse.
I installed new fusible links while in there, not required but a good idea on a 20 year old truck, and 175A fuse for alternator to the battery.
If you are doing this yourself I think I have the P/Ns. There was a post on mud by an engineer that had figured out the fuse with the proper characteristics.
And of course you will need Photoman's bracket!
I run the Toyota 150 A alternator with a Sears P-1 Platinum group 65 Battery from Diehard, supposedly built by Odyssey, held in place with an Artec battery mount.
I think you can fit one size larger than the P1.
Plenty of stuff to figure out and gather up for a top notch system.

any pics of your battery set up?

 

[Photoman]

what is the secret to depinning connectors for the swap? I am poking around with a small screw driver and pick with no luck and dont want to break the connector.

See post #251 page 13 for some pictures that may help. Then as has been said use something slim to lift and push the connector out.

 

[spressomon]

^ if the pins are the same as the UZJ100 fuel injector connector pins ... fogetaboutit.

 

[NW Wheeler]

RFB, had to gather a few pics and am writing up my battery/wiring install. Should be posting up in a couple of days - there's that work thing...

 

[NW Wheeler]

My project started with needing to replace the not so solid original hold-down bracket, as you can see in some of the pics the J-bar rips through the battery box material. I did the battery mount with the original wiring and later added the 150A alternator and winch wiring. This is an Artec mount for this size of battery. I think the next size up battery (longer) will fit in this mount also. With which I will likely replace this one with when it dies. To install the mount I chose to keep the original battery box as it provided a good base for the Artec and heat protection.
Box out of truck to mount Artec.

The two bolts that mount the box to the fender well, had to cut an extra hole in the Artec to access the rearward bolt.

The mount before the heavy wiring was added.

Heavy wiring complete. Shows the fuse housing and winch disconnect switch and the military terminals (a must have with high current installations). Heavy duty lugs – you want lots of beef when your alternator is putting out over 140A and the winch can pull well over 300A. I bought a hydraulic crimper from HF (had to make a custom crimping die from aluminum for the largest lugs I used). Ordered the #2 wire for the alternator feed and 2/O for the winch feed, heavy duty lugs and heat shrink from GenuineDealz.com. This is high quality flexible wire.

Fuse (found on Mud an engineer that had got the specs from an engineer at Little Fuse for the fuse needed for this exact use for this alternator output, proper rating, and time/current curve).

 

[bwiygul]

So without needing to scan the whole 20 pages...who had the brackets now? Are they back to being an attainable item? Thanks!

 

[ERG80]

So without needing to scan the whole 20 pages...who had the brackets now? Are they back to being an attainable item? Thanks!

Message photoman. He's still selling them.

 

[erniegolen]

Message photoman. He's still selling them.

Yeah, i bought one off of him last week.

 

[RFB]

Worth noting that most aftermarket alternators are far too tightly wrapped in too-small housings, achieve their supposed output at RPMs these rigs will never see, and tend to overheat and burn out prematurely. Also worth noting is that heavy duty Application OEM alternator set ups often use two standard size alternators rather than one huge one.

As to AGM batteries, they require a very specific charging routine if they are to reach maximum performance and lifetime. Very few companies make chargers capable of properly tending to these batteries. Unfortunately, Battery minders and such just won't cut it. Without a proper charge every 60 to 90 days, AGMs literally begin to slowly die the moment you start using them. Make no mistake, they will kick ass while they live. But they'll live longer with proper charging

Ive been using a genius charger on my odessey extrems, that works right?

 

[Photoman]

Let me ask, what bolts would you switch to metric and what size. I ask because Im about to do an oil leak repair and while Im in there swap out the alternator have had all the arts for a while its time .

There is only one bolt with the bracket that is not metric. I had to go back and look in my notes from 10 years ago to see why I used this bolt.

Here it is by the boring numbers.

The adjusting hole in the Sequoia alternator that uses this bolt is .455 inch in diameter. The shoulder on a 7/16 bolt is .432. That is .023 difference. For US reference, .03125 is 1/32 inch so less than 1/32 inch clearance. Pretty close.

Common Metric bolts. A 12mm bolt shoulder is .470 > .455 = too big to use. A 10mm bolt shoulder is .386. So, .455 - .386 = .069. For US reference .0625 is 1/16 inch so more than 1/16 inch clearance with a 10mm bolt. Pretty loose.

More numbers. The 7/16 bolt takes a 5/8 (.625) inch wrench or socket. 16mm = .6299. Approximately .005 (5 thousandths difference) = use a 16mm tool. The nut takes a 11/16 (.6875) tool. 18mm = .7086. According to the calculator .7086 - .6875 = .021 difference. An 18mm tool will work. Further, the nut is a serrated flange nut. I did this so the nut, once the serrations bite in, can be held with fingers or nothing so a wrench or socket tool would not be needed except for maybe a final tighten.

It should be noted the bolt measurements were done with bolts that I have so there could be a slight variation with bolts from different manufactures.

 

[cowboyjack]

Message photoman. He's still selling them.

Yup. Great kit at a fair price with great service. What’s not to love?

 

[jaymar]

Ive been using a genius charger on my odessey extrems, that works right?

Not for maximum life; you want a multi-stage charger with the right voltages. Odyssey actually recommends specific chargers for specific batteries of theirs. See if yours is on their list.

 

[cruiserdan]

I fail to see the charm in buying super-expensive batteries that require equally super-expensive proprietary chargers to maintain them. K.I.S.S.

 

[RFB]

Not for maximum life; you want a multi-stage charger with the right voltages. Odyssey actually recommends specific chargers for specific batteries of theirs. See if yours is on their list.

thanks Im on it.

 

[jaymar]

I fail to see the charm in buying super-expensive batteries that require equally super-expensive proprietary chargers to maintain them. K.I.S.S.

To paraphrase one of my favorite posters here: 'You just bought yourself a luxury battery.' Ahem

 

[cruiserdan]

 

[RFB]

There is only one bolt with the bracket that is not metric. I had to go back and look in my notes from 10 years ago to see why I used this bolt.

Here it is by the boring numbers.

The adjusting hole in the Sequoia alternator that uses this bolt is .455 inch in diameter. The shoulder on a 7/16 bolt is .432. That is .023 difference. For US reference, .03125 is 1/32 inch so less than 1/32 inch clearance. Pretty close.

Common Metric bolts. A 12mm bolt shoulder is .470 > .455 = too big to use. A 10mm bolt shoulder is .386. So, .455 - .386 = .069. For US reference .0625 is 1/16 inch so more than 1/16 inch clearance with a 10mm bolt. Pretty loose.

More numbers. The 7/16 bolt takes a 5/8 (.625) inch wrench or socket. 16mm = .6299. Approximately .005 (5 thousandths difference) = use a 16mm tool. The nut takes a 11/16 (.6875) tool. 18mm = .7086. According to the calculator .7086 - .6875 = .021 difference. An 18mm tool will work. Further, the nut is a serrated flange nut. I did this so the nut, once the serrations bite in, can be held with fingers or nothing so a wrench or socket tool would not be needed except for maybe a final tighten.

It should be noted the bolt measurements were done with bolts that I have so there could be a slight variation with bolts from different manufactures.

Ive installed the alt. the bracket the bushing tool all went great the one thing Im stuck on is the wiring. if you go thru this whole thread the wiring gets to be a bit much. heres what Im thinking. run 4 or larger gu wire from alt to fuse fuse to POs. then disconnect AM1 white and tape it........and then??

 

[ERG80]

Check out the third to the last post in this thread (I can't see post numbers when using my phone, sorry) 150 Amp Alternator - Thanks Photoman
its an alternative way to wire it up which may be easier to envision.

Ive installed the alt. the bracket the bushing tool all went great the one thing Im stuck on is the wiring. if you go thru this whole thread the wiring gets to be a bit much. heres what Im thinking. run 4 or larger gu wire from alt to fuse fuse to POs. then disconnect AM1 white and tape it........and then??