Stereo Amplifier Upgrade WITH Stock Factory Head Unit (3 Viewers)

[gwolf3]

Hi All:

'97 North American Landcruiser Here.

I want to upgrade my old stock amp but keep the stock factory head unit in place. First, I know that there's lots of information here about Swapping the stock head unit and bypassing the amp via traditional method, but that's not what I'm trying to accomplish here.

WHY:

I want to keep the full stock look of my dad's old 97 Landcruiser. I also don't really want another screen in my face while driving around, its part of the charm of the vehicle. The additional; advantage is that you don't loose any speakers this way.

My goal is to unplug the connectors that go to factory amp, splice them, and directly bypass it here, so that I can them wire in my own replacement new amplifier.

Each harness has 12 wires, but I don't know what the correct wire mapping would be from the the head unit. I have good understanding of the speaker side wiring, but the headunit side is not clear to me.

amp to speaker wire colors:
1. green
2. gray
3. light green
4. blue
5. purple
6. pink
7. brown
8. blue/yellow
9. red
10. white
11. yellow
12. black

radio head unit to amp wire colors:
1. blue
2. brown
3. yellow
4. green
5. black
6. white
7. red
8. white w/black stripe
9. light green w/red stripe
10. black w/ blue stripe
11. green w/ white stripe
12. red w/ black stripe


I think I found the mapping, but I want to make sure I am interpreting it right, and not doing anything really stupid.


Amp harness for reference:

Here's all the info I've pieced together:

radio head unit wiring to amp + amp to speakers:

-> QUESTION: do these mappings here look correct?
is the correct way to read this: red wire -> light green, for example?




speaker wiring colors (downstream of amp):

actual harness photos:

amp to speaker harness (I think):

head unit to amp harness:

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[gwolf3]

I wanted to give full context here,

SO -

Looks like BROWN is ground.

What is YELLOW wire upstream of amp?

 

[Malleus]

First, that doesn't look like the '97 EWD. Are you sure you're using the correct file (I assume you're not working from a printed manual)? It should look like this:

Yes, unlike almost every other circuit in the Land Cruiser wiring harnesses, the ground wire is brown.

 

[Malleus]

Second, you cannot read the amp circuit the way you're asking. The pins on the amp are connected to the board, not each other.

Third, get rid of the internet wire color chart and use the EWD:

 

[Malleus]

Fourth, the yellow wire upstream of the amp (as illustrated on the previous page) is:

You'll need to use the ground and splice diagrams to trace the wires through the floor harness, if you're interested in doing that.

 

[Malleus]

The images I posted are all in the 1997 Land Cruiser (not LX450) EWD, in the Resources forum.

 

[gwolf3]

Thank you for this! Exactly what I needed. @Malleus I was looking in my hardcopy Factory Service Manual, which doesn't have wiring diagrams for this. Very helpful!

I see now with the image you posted, it's very clear from the abbreviations the wiring mapping on either side of the factory amp.

One question, do you know why there are two radio & players on the diagram? (R1 & R2)

R1 shows direct lines to the speakers, but that's not how its wired in reality. R2 shows wires passing through amp.

Is this related to the factory amp bypass harness?

 

[retlaw]

Thank you for this! Exactly what I needed. @Malleus I was looking in my hardcopy Factory Service Manual, which doesn't have wiring diagrams for this. Very helpful!

I see now with the image you posted, it's very clear from the abbreviations the wiring mapping on either side of the factory amp.

One question, do you know why there are two radio & players on the diagram? (R1 & R2)

R1 shows direct lines to the speakers, but that's not how its wired in reality. R2 shows wires passing through amp.

Is this related to the factory amp bypass harness?

R1 and R3 you mean? R1 and R3 are connectors on the radio/player. Note the A and B next to each to denote what connections are in which connectors. At least thats the way I have been understanding the LX EWD. I know the two setups are different but Im guessing the way to read the diagram is the same.
Or...maybe I misunderstood your question.

 

[retlaw]

R1 and R3 you mean? R1 and R3 are connectors on the radio/player. Note the A and B next to each to denote what connections are in which connectors. At least thats the way I have been understanding the LX EWD. I know the two setups are different but Im guessing the way to read the diagram is the same.
Or...maybe I misunderstood your question.

Oh...I see R2 now. I'll follow up.

 

[retlaw]

Oh...I see R2 now. I'll follow up.

There must be 3 connectors on the radio/player. R2 appears to carry the input signals to the amp....maybe from the CD player?

 

[gwolf3]

There must be 3 connectors on the radio/player. R2 appears to carry the input signals to the amp....maybe from the CD player?

Notice how only R2 carries the input signal through the amp, the other R1/R3 does not pass through amp at all, instead it goes out directly to speakers.

My first thought was that maybe it has to do with the factory amp bypass?

But then there'd be no reason why you'd loose speakers with amp bypass as many people mention, if the wiring diagram is correct, front/front and rear/roof speakers are wired in parallel -> If this wiring diagram is correct, we should not loose any speakers bypassing the amp as seems to be widely regarded as cannon knowledge on all the videos/threads.

 

[gwolf3]

I found this:

Does this ring any bells what R1 & R3 are used for vs R2? My null assumption that it's related to the factory amp bypass

 

[landcrshr]

Notice how only R2 carries the input signal through the amp, the other R1/R3 does not pass through amp at all, instead it goes out directly to speakers.

My first thought was that maybe it has to do with the factory amp bypass?

That is correct, R1/R3 are for a radio/player (option) that has a built-in amplifier.

But then there'd be no reason why you'd loose speakers with amp bypass as many people mention, if the wiring diagram is correct, front/front and rear/roof speakers are wired in parallel -> If this wiring diagram is correct, we should not loose any speakers bypassing the amp as seems to be widely regarded as common knowledge on all the videos/threads.

A common misconception is what it is.

If you want to add an aftermarket amp to the stock headunit, the best approach is to retain the factory amp and then install a line-out-converter (LOC) downstream from the amp.

 

[retlaw]

I kept wondering about the diagram posted above and why the antenna went to two different devices.... See the fine print upper right corner:
*1 Separate type amplifier, *2 Built-in type amplifier. Ah ha! *2 follows to R1 and R3. *1 follows to R2. I have no idea which years had which. The LX has a separate amp and the diagram is much easier to understand.
Edit: And NOW I notice landcrshr already said this! I should pay closer attention.

 

[gwolf3]

After learning that you don't loose speakers with swapping the head unit, I wound up wiring in an Atoto F7 with Atoto amplifier that connects to back of head unit. It was super easy install, I removed the factory amp.... speakers sound better than I could have imagined - and YES - ALL 8 OF THEM!

Common misconception indeed.

 

[bairdism]

After learning that you don't loose speakers with swapping the head unit, I wound up wiring in an Atoto F7 with Atoto amplifier that connects to back of head unit. It was super easy install, I removed the factory amp.... speakers sound better than I could have imagined - and YES - ALL 8 OF THEM!

Common misconception indeed.

Looking to update head unit and researching whether to use an aftermarket amp replacement. Can you expound a bit on why you didnt just use the new head unit alone and installed the second amp? Any info on the harnesses and on each and if they are just plug and play options or did you have to build them? Thanks!

 

[bairdism]

Looking to update head unit and researching whether to use an aftermarket amp replacement. Can you expound a bit on why you didnt just use the new head unit alone and installed the second amp? Any info on the harnesses and on each and if they are just plug and play options or did you have to build them? Thanks!

Also - did you go with just 4 channel amp or 5? Not sure if the 4 will run more than just the door speakers?

 

[gwolf3]

Looking to update head unit and researching whether to use an aftermarket amp replacement. Can you expound a bit on why you didnt just use the new head unit alone and installed the second amp? Any info on the harnesses and on each and if they are just plug and play options or did you have to build them? Thanks!

Hi! Yes - let me answer both questions. First, here's the setup I ultimately went with including the wiring harness. I actually purchased and tested 2 different head units, and this was the combo that performed best. I also installed an aftermarket sub. With the head units sound controls - this allowed me to put a software high pass filter for my tweeter speakers, and let the sub pickup basically everything under 150 hz. It works incredible, I am very happy with it. As for your second question, the amp is important because it hugely improves sound quality and clarity, especially at higher volumes.

Headunit: Atoto S8 7in: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5J8XZ7P
Amplifier: ATOTO CA-AEC02: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPXG27SM
Stock Harness adapter: Metra 70-1761: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8

This amp attaches to back of head unit, and fit directly into the stock head unit location. Its all plug & play.

Here's the (inexpensive) subwoofer and cabling that worked well for me. :

Subwoofer: Pyle 8-Inch Low-Profile: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F7MB8LC
RCA Cabling Splitter/Extension: 1 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male Y-Splitter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDWQX9GJ

Another note: I HIGHLY RECOMMEND level nut connectors! Don't waste time soldering! They are super reliable and ez to install. I use them at work all the time, and it really made connecting the adapter to head unit a breeze: https://www.amazon.com/WAGO-Lever-Nuts-Connector-2-Conductor-Transparent/dp/B08X6CPFNR

FINAL NOTE: I can CONFIRM that you DO NOT LOOSE ANY SPEAKERS! That is indeed a common misconception.

Note on optimizing sound:
On the subwoofer, I have the builtin low pass set all the way up to 150hz.
On the head unit sound mixer, I have all my tweeter volume (all front + rear speakers) below 150hz turned all the way down.
Why: This really takes the stress off our small speakers and lets the sub handle the low end. I am very happy.

Best of luck!

 

[bairdism]

Hi! Yes - let me answer both questions. First, here's the setup I ultimately went with including the wiring harness. I actually purchased and tested 2 different head units, and this was the combo that performed best. I also installed an aftermarket sub. With the head units sound controls - this allowed me to put a software high pass filter for my tweeter speakers, and let the sub pickup basically everything under 150 hz. It works incredible, I am very happy with it. As for your second question, the amp is important because it hugely improves sound quality and clarity, especially at higher volumes.

Headunit: Atoto S8 7in: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5J8XZ7P
Amplifier: ATOTO CA-AEC02: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CPXG27SM
Stock Harness adapter: Metra 70-1761: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8

This amp attaches to back of head unit, and fit directly into the stock head unit location. Its all plug & play.

Here's the (inexpensive) subwoofer and cabling that worked well for me. :

Subwoofer: Pyle 8-Inch Low-Profile: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F7MB8LC
RCA Cabling Splitter/Extension: 1 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male Y-Splitter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDWQX9GJ

Another note: I HIGHLY RECOMMEND level nut connectors! Don't waste time soldering! They are super reliable and ez to install. I use them at work all the time, and it really made connecting the adapter to head unit a breeze: https://www.amazon.com/WAGO-Lever-Nuts-Connector-2-Conductor-Transparent/dp/B08X6CPFNR

FINAL NOTE: I can CONFIRM that you DO NOT LOOSE ANY SPEAKERS! That is indeed a common misconception.

Note on optimizing sound:
On the subwoofer, I have the builtin low pass set all the way up to 150hz.
On the head unit sound mixer, I have all my tweeter volume (all front + rear speakers) below 150hz turned all the way down.
Why: This really takes the stress off our small speakers and lets the sub handle the low end. I am very happy.

Best of luck!

Gwolf3 - Wow!!! Thanks for the prompt reply! I am pretty green to anything electrical as well with audio systems. I am looking at a different HU (Sony or Pioneer) and will be putting a small Amp over in or near the OEM location and see that harness adapters are pretty short. Would I be purchasing a few to daisy chain over there or find a wire kit to just splice in to get the length? Wondering the same thing on the RCA Extenstion - find a longer one if needed to covert the distance. Lastly - did you install that Pyle under the panel in the rear OEM location or just under the seat? Thx!!!

 

[tech_dog]

I've got this receiver, 86120-33100, in my US base model 94.

Just to confirm, this is line level out to two amps, one for the main channels and one for the sub, right? It's clear the harness is designed for both amplified and line level head units, and I'm trying to figure out what I'm starting with.

Thanks,

T.