Updating a 1990's build (1 Viewer)

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So I could have had the exhaust manifolds done in black, it was my choice. I picked silver obviously, I think it looks great! Fuel line fittings in black, throttle rod in red, steering column in black...overall I am particular like this. Things got to match for me!

Rear axle is off to the blaster tomorrow. Probably send off the rear springs as well and start painting the fronts. Missed a package today, from UAE that is all new Toyota hardware for the front axle as well as some for the rear axle. Cone washers, flat washers, wheel studs, knuckle hardware and more. To give the rebuild that extra bling and shine I like to install new hardware, zinc plated ya know! With fresh paint on parts it helps to really make things look just right.


Cheers
 
All the hardware for the knuckles, 3rd members, hubs, leaf spring pins and more showed up today.

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I also got the high steer kit from Front Range today. Nice bit of gear but they didn't have the bearings. I opted for the upgraded 25mm and wanted Koyo's so still waiting for them. That means in the last picture the knuckles are just sitting on there with no bottom caps or bearings. The steering kit was supplied by the customer and it is a MAF kit. Think I am going to go to GM 1-ton tres and probably even go offset tres too.

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Rear axle and knuckles and maybe rear leaves off to the blaster tomorrow. I will also make up my mind on the steering components and order them up.


Cheers
 
Would be cool to see a comparison pic of the stock trunion vs bigger ones.

They are big and beefy. I can compare with pics for you guys just need the bearings.


Cheers
 
I am going to GM 1-ton tres and offset as well. This allows me to keep the axle where it is, moves the tie rod forward and makes it that much more beefy. I will also use the same on the drag link. A buddy has the reamer so no worries.


Cheers
 
Nitro pinion flanges in route to me. Same for ring gear bolt kits. A Nitro rear diff skid plate as well.

I have decided to bag on the RS shock towers. Back to the original plan of using Fords. A set is in route to me now.

25mm Koyo bearings for the trunnions be here by Monday. Harrop E-locker shipped out to me yesterday.

New front shackles and grease-able pins for the whole truck in route to me as well.

Cheers
 
I also purchased new "Rock Rings" and button bolt kits for the knuckles along with an upgraded rubber knuckle wiper seal kit. I am also using a Low Range Off-Road backing plate eliminator. I really like how they kept the brake line tab integrated into their eliminator so I bought them. Saves me having to work that out which is nice.

The owner informed me the other day he bought a Mattracks kit for the truck! :eek:

Glad I went the way of super buff on the front axle now as well as the rear traction bar. He has a cabin way out in the boonies and the Mattracks are for going there in the winter.

Picking up rear axle, knuckles and rear leaves from the blaster tomorrow. Painting 3rds with POR15 tomorrow. I just need the trunnion bearings to double check the steering and I will burn the front axle all in. Traction bar is partly prep'ed, I stopped working on it when I had the rear carrier dramas. E-locker showed up for the front axle on Friday.

Cheers
 
Free wheeling hub refresh and rebuild. RCV chromoly gears are sitting on the paper.

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Just double checking since I have seen issues with this and aftermarket axles. All is well though!

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Cheers
 
Lot's of slow work this week prep'ing front axle parts for rebuild.

Spindles got new OEM bushings.

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Backing plate eliminator with built in brake line holder.

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Cheers
 
Run a tap in all holes to clean them out before setting studs and or assembling.

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ARP stud pictured here.

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POR15 is a pain to work with. In the past I have used Rust Bullet and it is no better. Just very time consuming but when I pressed the owner to powder coat a lot of this stuff he was not for it. He wanted paint for quick touch up. Since I am top coating it all with POR15 top coat in a rattle can he is getting what he wants. It is just very time consuming to prep, do two layers of POR15 and then two coats of top coat. I have best results when I let the POR15 cure between coats and then scuff for the second coat but it is even more time consuming. I am very happy with the results though so it is all good just takes dedication and time.

Any ways, tomorrow I test fit the knuckles and make sure the steering it good to go. After that I am burning on the cut & turn and the RS leaf spring perches.

Rear axle is sitting in the back of my 70-series ready to go fresh from the sand blaster. It's up next after I finish up the front axle stuff.

Cheers
 
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This is why I clean out the threads before settling the studs.

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Gone back to using Toyota tres for the steering. Pictured is FJ40, I will go up to 80-series tres.

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The Front Range high steer is definitely beefy. It all just clears with this MAF tre kit. Going to trim a 1/4 or so off the front of the leaf spring plate and order up an 80-series steering kit.

Cheers
 
You do nice work. I'm not a fan of powdercoat on 4x4s. I think it's great for hot rods though.


Thanks!

I am not a big fan of it either, at least not on the underside of the truck. It gets chipped and all you can do is rattle can over that. High wear areas it is no good too, it scratches.

This is a show n go truck though and it would have saved me A LOT of time to powder coat. Owner wants paint though and I am not a guy who just rattle cans everything. It looks like crap in six months when you do that. I feel pretty confident the work and paint I am doing will still look good in 10yrs.

Cheers
 
Both housings cleaned of unwanted old perches.

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Tearing out the rear axle and suspension right now.

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Rear leaves are all ready to assemble, I have new OEM pins for them.

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Cheers
 

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