Updating a 1990's build (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

The truck had no radiator overflow bottle so I purchased a new one,
Scott Drake Recovery Tanks C5ZZ-8C077-AL

Adding a power steering cooler but for the best fit I am actually using a trans cooler.
Russell Heat Sink Transmission Coolers 651470

Rather than a coat hanger for throttle linkage I went and purchased this nice universal kit,
JOES Racing Products Throttle Linkage Assemblies 34200


Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cut & turned the front axle. I set the LHS three tenths of a degree stronger for the crown in the road.

Probably hard to see in the pic but I moved it 9/16's. Now to tac it on. I am not going to burn anything on until I check the steering. I am also going to be doing that in a different work space with a different mig machine. I am just using the Hobart 120v with flux core wire for tac'ing things on. Surprisingly it actually burns pretty nice.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I am liking this overflow bottle a lot, sweet bit of gear! Not sure yet if I will modify the radiator mount for the support rod or build a bracket to space it out, either way this is where it is going.

Nice short but fatty cooler for the p/s and where I am mounting it.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Sneak peak at some things to come....

I am using the Marlin knuckle ball gussets with integrated shock mount top, not pictured is the bottom gusset. Just some added beef and a convenient shock mounting location.

RuffStuff 9.75" shock towers are in route to me.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Mounted and just about done plumbing the fuel pump and filters.

Got a spacer for the air cleaner to clear the fuel injection fittings at the TB. Also the new throttle linkage.

Got the serpentine belts so installed them.

Cheers

 

[74fj40]

Looking good. Really enjoying this build.

 

[Martyt]

same here--great work!

 

[peesalot]

FWIW I think you will find the 16* on the third is excessive. 12 max is my guess.

 

[curtis65]

So I decided to move the front axle forward the only way I can.

View attachment 1683933

I first set the pinion at 10* and was not happy with it, just not enough. So I have gone to 16* and it is much better. For now I am going with it.

View attachment 1683938
View attachment 1683939

Going to be a big turn on the cut & turn! Out by 20* now.

View attachment 1683940

This is initial set up, just tacked on. After playing with it a bunch though I am happy with where it sits. I will move to the cut & turn next but that will also just be tacked on. Still waiting on the knuckles and arms front Front Range.

Oh ya, I swapped out the stock but re-arched to 2" lift leaves for a set of 100% old and stock leaves. Shackle angle has improved slightly.

Cheers

Great looking work as always

 

[SNLC]

FWIW I think you will find the 16* on the third is excessive. 12 max is my guess.

Perhaps. I have already had the weight on it though and it looks good where it sits. I am having the front axle sand blasted on Monday as well as front leaves. Knuckles & high steer arms supposedly shipped Friday. Once I have everything I will be checking it again with the knuckles on and also cycling the suspension before burning anything on for good.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Less than a 3-day turn around time on these.

They are old AA headers that I just had ceramic coated. I am not using cheap gaskets either.

Cheers

 

[74fj40]

does the FAST have the ability to control timing?

 

[SNLC]

does the FAST have the ability to control timing?

No.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Started working on the rear traction bar. Beefy!

And then the plot thickened....

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Well the rear diff is pretty screwed. No way I can get it apart without ruining the carrier. Can't drill it and other options are pounding out the thrust block pin or cutting the diff apart. Neither sounds good to me and it will get expensive. It has obviously been busted for awhile, it is broken off farther down in the hole than the piece in my hand and it feels like down in the hole somebody has worked on trying to get it out besides me. I worked on it with a pick for awhile to see if I could back it out. I then tried left handed drills using the lowest profile angle drill there is and busted two bits fast. Can not get straight on the hole to drill it. Any ways, it could be saved but not without replacing the carrier, not worth the effort. Especially when you have a great 2nd hand parts source locally. So I am buying a 2nd hand axle for cheap and just going to use that. This will also allow me to replace the leaf spring perches on the rear axle. What is on there is home made and very small compounding the axle wrap issue. I have new RuffStuff perches in route to me.

RS messed up my order and for a reason unknown and did not ship my shock towers. So I wait.

Cheers

 

[jim land]

arb

 

[SNLC]

arb

The owner won't do it. He put one in years ago in a jeep and had bad experience with it. I tried to talk him into ARBs and he isn't having it. I also worked on getting him a FF rear axle which he was all for but doesn't like the cost so opt'ed out.

Cheers

 

[jim land]

A good used open carrier should be easy to find

 

[SNLC]

A good used open carrier should be easy to find

Fortunately I live close to a guy that parts Cruisers. Good honest guy who almost always has what I need and for a solid price. I am buying a used rear axle from him.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Got the replacement axle. The bolt/pin for the trust block pin is good. Back in business.

So the busted one from the other diff is laying next to this one in the bottom pic. The replacement axle is a 72, the truck is a 74. The diameter of these two pins/bolts is not the same so I assume this was a change.

Cheers