TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (1 Viewer)

[S4Cruiser]

@CUSailor another thing to try is move your front tires to the back and back to the front to rule out is it's tire related.

 

[roadstr6]

Another thing to check. I've had a rub before between the rotor and the dust shield/backing plate when I got a little over zealous in removing the backing plate and bent it a little. While you have the tire off, it is really easy to check. If it looks tight, or if you see a shiny rub patch, just bend the plate away from the rotor.

 

[Rice]

Thanks for the advice Rice. It's good to know especially point 1, I am very new with brake work so I assumed that you'd be able to see some light between the pad and the rotor.

Point 2, I'll raise it up today and do another spin of the wheel. I don't think I noticed any rubbing, but I don't want to assume at this point.

Point 3. I'm starting to question everything, so I can't say that I'm certain, but I'm 99% sure. I ground the old races down slightly in circumference and used them with a 4lb deadblow hammer to get the new races seated. I went till they felt snug, went a little more, then tried to feel with my fingernail under the race to ensure there was no gap. It felt good to me at the time, and I made a conscious effort to drive them all the way in.

4. No pulsing on the pedal, but the brakes do feel very light. In fact every once in a while I'll have my brake light flash on for less than a second when braking. I haven't had any trouble stopping, but the brakes do not feel like they used to. I attributed this to a new MC/Brake booster I installed, although I am thinking about taking it to a shop just to do a general tuneup on it. I flushed the front brake lines after replacing the calipers and my fluid looks good, but there may be something wrong there.

I think my next course of action is to get a longer drive on it, 30+ minutes. That should give time for anything that needs to heat up to heat up. Hit it with the infrared thermometer to see if that gives me any clue. If that doesn't make it obvious I'll take the hub back apart, repack everything, or even replace the bearings/races again (I didn't do the passenger side so I have an extra set on hand). If that fails to fix the problem then I'll take it to a professional brake shop. That will keep me from spending money until I've exhausted all my options.

The description you gave of installing the races causes me to believe you can scratch that one off your list.

Is there wrenching friend close-by that can take it for a spin and offer a second diagnosis?

 

[uzj100]

Radiator rebuild after 46 years.

 

[CUSailor]

The description you gave of installing the races causes me to believe you can scratch that one off your list.

Is there wrenching friend close-by that can take it for a spin and offer a second diagnosis?

Just moved to the area before lockdown so I haven't gotten a good feel for who is up in the Concord area. Hopefully I can intercept people coming and going to uwharrie soon.

Today I did it from scratch though. Pulled the hub off yanked it all out except the races. I made sure they were seated well and they were spic and span. Replaced bearings, with the set I had for the other wheel, repacked everything using a bearing packing tool. So far now that it's all back it sounds ok, but I have only driven about 10 miles. Everything looked ok when I pulled it apart but who knows, it could be that one of the bearings didn't sit right, I could have damaged the inner bearing seal when I put it back together. All I know is that I've gotten really good at pulling hubs and bearings. Fingers crossed this did the trick though. I do need to make sure my hub isn't locking. I'll throw it up on the stands again tomorrow and put in 4H to make sure they don't spin. Seems like putting those back together was almost too easy.

Thanks for everyone scratching their heads with me over this. I hate that I don't have a smoking gun to point at as the culprit. Offer still stands for anyone passing by cabarrus brewery who wants a beer or two in exchange for some advice or chat.

 

[CUSailor]

Another thing to check. I've had a rub before between the rotor and the dust shield/backing plate when I got a little over zealous in removing the backing plate and bent it a little. While you have the tire off, it is really easy to check. If it looks tight, or if you see a shiny rub patch, just bend the plate away from the rotor.

Thanks, I didn't think to check this but I will tomorrow when I have it back up on stands.

 

[Rice]

Just moved to the area before lockdown so I haven't gotten a good feel for who is up in the Concord area. Hopefully I can intercept people coming and going to uwharrie soon.

Today I did it from scratch though. Pulled the hub off yanked it all out except the races. I made sure they were seated well and they were spic and span. Replaced bearings, with the set I had for the other wheel, repacked everything using a bearing packing tool. So far now that it's all back it sounds ok, but I have only driven about 10 miles. Everything looked ok when I pulled it apart but who knows, it could be that one of the bearings didn't sit right, I could have damaged the inner bearing seal when I put it back together. All I know is that I've gotten really good at pulling hubs and bearings. Fingers crossed this did the trick though. I do need to make sure my hub isn't locking. I'll throw it up on the stands again tomorrow and put in 4H to make sure they don't spin. Seems like putting those back together was almost too easy.

Thanks for everyone scratching their heads with me over this. I hate that I don't have a smoking gun to point at as the culprit. Offer still stands for anyone passing by cabarrus brewery who wants a beer or two in exchange for some advice or chat.

Good going. So now you're stuck ... do I use this leftover bearing on the other side or assume it is defective?

I have never run into a new bearing that was defective, however, I would not call it impossible.

Enjoy the ride.

 

[CUSailor]

Good going. So now you're stuck ... do I use this leftover bearing on the other side or assume it is defective?

I have never run into a new bearing that was defective, however, I would not call it impossible.

Enjoy the ride.

I figured I would chalk it up to a $30 lesson, if they were $100, I wouldn't have. My assumption was more that I did a crap job packing it and damaged it that way. Now if I still hear the noise after all this i will be hitting my head against the wall That's probably one of the cheapest lessons this vehicle has taught me. Look on the bright side right? I'll also have an extra set of races to grind down.

 

[Rice]

I figured I would chalk it up to a $30 lesson, if they were $100, I wouldn't have. My assumption was more that I did a crap job packing it and damaged it that way. Now if I still hear the noise after all this i will be hitting my head against the wall That's probably one of the cheapest lessons this vehicle has taught me. Look on the bright side right? I'll also have an extra set of races to grind down.

I recommend the used bearings and races go in your trail bag in the event you find yourself or a friend on the side of the road/trail.

 

[NC LX]

Repaired the air on this time capsule. 95 locked with 120k. Current owner purchased from a private collection last year. The story is All the service records are from the Hamptons.

 

[FJinTegaCay]

In making preparations for some upcoming upgrades and after noticing the upper part of the radiator needed repair, I pulled the radiator, heater, related hoses, blower, and the related in-dash controls. I also planned to paint the radiator grill/mesh and a broken stud when removing the emblem meant an unexpected order from the dealer. An unfortunate mishap at the radiator shop after they’d fixed it meant adding a new radiator to my order. @roadstr6 hooked me up with a part I temporarily misplaced and I was able to get it all back together this weekend. It felt good to get back behind the wheel yesterday.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

I figured I would chalk it up to a $30 lesson, if they were $100, I wouldn't have. My assumption was more that I did a crap job packing it and damaged it that way. Now if I still hear the noise after all this i will be hitting my head against the wall That's probably one of the cheapest lessons this vehicle has taught me. Look on the bright side right? I'll also have an extra set of races to grind down.

What is this thing about grinding bearings down? It makes me cringe a bit. As one in manufacturing, we spend a lot of time money and effort to get bearings held to very tight tolerances. Grinding one down totally defeats that.

 

[lt1fire]

What is this thing about grinding bearings down? It makes me cringe a bit. As one in manufacturing, we spend a lot of time money and effort to get bearings held to very tight tolerances. Grinding one down totally defeats that.

He is talking about the old races not bearings. You grind down the old one to use as a tool to help install the new one.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

He is talking about the old races not bearings. You grind down the old one to use as a tool to help install the new one.

Ah. Ok. I pictured bench grinding the race OD just so it was easier to fit in there. This makes much more sense.

 

[Rice]

Quicktip ... if the shoes are okay and all you wish to do is replace a slave cylinder, wedging the shoes apart will keep you from having to pull them off.

 

[JohnVee]

The hell of it is that the bolts @Rice is using are actually old used ones from his junk drawer. Cleaner than anything I have by the time they go in the bag at the store!

To keep this ‘wrenching’ oriented - Going out to finish the spring replacement on my white ‘96 in a few minutes (and call to find out why my tires haven’t arrived yet).

 

[roadstr6]

Quicktip ... if the shoes are okay and all you wish to do is replace a slave cylinder, wedging the shoes apart will keep you from having to pull them off.


View attachment 2335441

Who's truck you working on, Rice? That's not your 40...or do you have two now?

 

[jfz80]

Who's truck you working on, Rice? That's not your 40...or do you have two now?

A friend of a concretejungle’s was looking for some work to be done to finish up a stalled project with his son and asked me if I had any leads. The timing and wrenching media coincided perfectly with summer at the strange fab shop. It’s a pretty solid lil truck needing lots of detailed attention.

 

[CUSailor]

What is this thing about grinding bearings down? It makes me cringe a bit. As one in manufacturing, we spend a lot of time money and effort to get bearings held to very tight tolerances. Grinding one down totally defeats that.

Lt1fire got it right, I don't know much about this stuff but I try to err on the side of caution. I was ready to toss the previous bearings just because I might have not packed them well enough and drove about 20 miles on them. I'm taking y'all's advice though and adding to my field bag just in case.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Turning a wrench on the hvlp gun counts right?

Huge shout-out to @SFROMAN for coming over to give me a hand with this step. Feels good to be here.