TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (22 Viewers)

[roadstr6]

I also have the 1773 fork lift filters in my 2F's right now but with all the issues folks are having with the new WIX filters (WIX makes the Napa filters), I plan to go back to the Toyota Thailand filters on my next oil changes. WIX filter killed a club member's truck @fj40z recently and there are plenty more examples here on MUD of the same thing happening. Not trying to scare you, @joyRidaz , but keep a close eye on your oil pressure. Like I said, I've got WIX in both my 2F's right now and I'm not having any issues. The WIX QC problems may be confined to the 51515 filter. Who knows? I'm staying away from WIX going forward.

If you're using a WIX oil filter read this

If WIX gets their act together, I might switch back to them in a few years after the bad filters have had plenty of time to cycle off the shelves. I like the extra capacity of the big filters, but if the internals are faulty, it's for naught.

 

[stevezero]

Hasnt killed my lx450, but it sure gave it a nice case of piston slap about 3 years ago...poor girl keeps chuggin along. Back to OEM for me.

 

[jfz80]

Oil change and tire rotate on camry
New PS pump on the 45
New Carb install on the 2f
Brake bleeding on 45 and 80.... 80 right rear bleeder clogged again :/

I didnt get much work work done yesterday

 

[lt1fire]

New Boost pancake pipe, coupler and intercooler on the jetta. Last money i'll spend on it. Just wanted to make sure everything was working fine before I gave it to my brother in law.

Notice the bend in the old one.... fairly common in MKIV jettas. Super low front end with it placed really low and one bad pot hole will get yah. Bent the intercooler, bent the coupler broke the pipe and bent the mount. All fixed now and ticking away as usual.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Rear locker has developed a leak over the past few months. Was hoping it to be the end seals, but it ended up being the bonded seal. Had to pull the whole thing apart to reveal the bonded seal, and now I get to wait for parts

Metal shavings inside the diff, which i assume caused the bonded seal failure. All the spiders, ring, and pinion, and carrier bearings look perfect, so I'm assuming wheel bearings. Going to replace the wheel bearings, seals and clean the axle housing real well before reassembly.

Bonded seal and locking ring removed. Bonded seal goes in the groove around the short side spider (right side of the pic). When air is supplied via the outer gland, it fills the cavity behind the bonded seal, which causes it to move up in its bore and overcome the wave spring tension, to lock the diff in place.

Plan to be up and running by mid-week. Was hoping to be a one-day fix, but oh well.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Rear locker has developed a leak over the past few months. Was hoping it to be the end seals, but it ended up being the bonded seal. Had to pull the whole thing apart to reveal the bonded seal, and now I get to wait for parts

Metal shavings inside the diff, which i assume caused the bonded seal failure. All the spiders, ring, and pinion, and carrier bearings look perfect, so I'm assuming wheel bearings. Going to replace the wheel bearings, seals and clean the axle housing real well before reassembly.

Bonded seal and locking ring removed. Bonded seal goes in the groove around the short side spider (right side of the pic). When air is supplied via the outer gland, it fills the cavity behind the bonded seal, which causes it to move up in its bore and overcome the wave spring tension, to lock the diff in place.

Plan to be up and running by mid-week. Was hoping to be a one-day fix, but oh well.

Air leak or oil leak? Curious as how you could tell it was the locker and not the diff if oil leak? I am below newb level on knowledge of 14bolts tho...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

All ARBs are the same from a troubleshooting perspective.

I had an air leak. When sending air to the rear, the diff never locks, system never pressurizes, and air was venting through the extended diff breather. Bench testing with the diff showed me that air was not coming out from around the seal on the end of the diff, but through the center section, meaning the bonded seal had failed.

 

[S4Cruiser]

All ARBs are the same from a troubleshooting perspective.

I had an air leak. When sending air to the rear, the diff never locks, system never pressurizes, and air was venting through the extended diff breather. Bench testing with the diff showed me that air was not coming out from around the seal on the end of the diff, but through the center section, meaning the bonded seal had failed.

Is this type of air leak common for an arb or more of a 'depends' and specifically...to a potential upstream consequence from a separate part failure (like you mentioned above).

I can't recall if the most recent arb install you did was for the front or rear (i.e. the rear locker being older and has seen more use).

I heart learning!

 

[JohnVee]

So wheel bearing metal migrated past the axle seal(s) and worked its way inside the locker? Curious if your GM axle has both inner and outer seals. I'm even a few steps behind @S4Cruiser with all this.

 

[JohnVee]

My wrenching today has been limited to clearing a clogged shower drain. Morning shower turned into an unintended bath. Now that I have long hair again after many years, I'm remembering all about having 2 people with long hair using the same shower in a house with 48 year old pipes.

 

[pawwright]

My wrenching today has been limited to clearing a clogged shower drain. Morning shower turned into an unintended bath. Now that I have long hair again after many years, I'm remembering all about having 2 people with long hair using the same shower in a house with 48 year old pipes.

gross

 

[JohnVee]

gross

I knew you'd like it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Is this type of air leak common for an arb or more of a 'depends' and specifically...to a potential upstream consequence from a separate part failure (like you mentioned above).

I can't recall if the most recent arb install you did was for the front or rear (i.e. the rear locker being older and has seen more use).

I heart learning!

Depends. Metal shavings are a pretty good indicator of an outside problem, especially considering that everything I've had apart so far looks spectacular (ring, pinion, carrier bearings, arb spiders, etc). Ordered wheel bearings, so they'll get replaced assuming they're the issue. It's also possible these shavings are left over from shaving the diff, so I'll make sure to clean it super good inside and out this time.

I put this diff (rear axle) together a little over a year ago. From what I've read, it's more common for the end seals to go than the bonded seal, but both (all three technically) can go bad.

So wheel bearing metal migrated past the axle seal(s) and worked its way inside the locker? Curious if your GM axle has both inner and outer seals. I'm even a few steps behind @S4Cruiser with all this.

No axle seals with this axle. Wheel bearings are lubricated with the same oil as the differential. The carrier circulates oil from the center section, down the axle tubes, to each pair of wheel bearings.

 

[Roxx]

The 40th got super charged. I can feel the extra boost. I hope the engine is not that tired that the boost is going to make it fail. I dont want to cut my fender for a snorkel. So, since a dont go in rivers, creeks, ocean or anything that may get water in the filter housing i am going to take the blinker and the blinker fluid of the blinker out and make a air access that way.

 

[roadstr6]

One thing I don't understand about supercharging an 80 is the air / fuel management aspect. I've never known another vehicle that you can simply bolt on a supercharger and go to the races. How pig rich must these things be N/A that you can force feed them air and not even touch the fuel curves in the tune? No wonder they get 11 mpg. In all the boosted cars I have owned, the tune had to be modified to correct timing and AFR throughout the rpm range. Bigger injectors, bigger fuel pumps, modded MAF, intercoolers, etc. were required. Maybe these blowers just don't make much boost? It just seems really weird to me to bolt on a supercharger and drive away with no worries of having a complete melt down. They do seem to work fine, so damifino?

 

[jfz80]

They do work fine

Congrats Rafi. You will love it.

Its only 5lbs of boost for starters and the ecu were setup so conservative for poor fuel availability but robust enough to learn and adjust for a small psi bump. In standard form they also overfuel so that helps some. Now add 8,9,10 psi and it starts to pass the ability of the ecu to keep fueling in spec.

Edit: that said.... i still want to try a smaller pulley

 

[jamesurq]

They do work fine

Congrats Rafi. You will love it.

Its only 5lbs of boost for starters and the ecu were setup so conservative for poor fuel availability but robust enough to learn and adjust for a small psi bump. In standard form they also overfuel so that helps some. Now add 8,9,10 psi and it starts to pass the ability of the ecu to keep fueling in spec.

Edit: that said.... i still want to try a smaller pulley

I often wonder about that "only 5 lbs of boost" and if you go past 7 you need an ECU/fuel/injectors/etc....

From my experience with a turbo, it leans out pretty badly (over 14 AFR) if you push more than about 3.5 psi I wonder how lean it actually gets when you're at full boost with the supercharger...

 

[lt1fire]

One thing I don't understand about supercharging an 80 is the air / fuel management aspect. I've never known another vehicle that you can simply bolt on a supercharger and go to the races. How pig rich must these things be N/A that you can force feed them air and not even touch the fuel curves in the tune? No wonder they get 11 mpg. In all the boosted cars I have owned, the tune had to be modified to correct timing and AFR throughout the rpm range. Bigger injectors, bigger fuel pumps, modded MAF, intercoolers, etc. were required. Maybe these blowers just don't make much boost? It just seems really weird to me to bolt on a supercharger and drive away with no worries of having a complete melt down. They do seem to work fine, so damifino?

Toyotas all across the board run very rich from the factory. Its great when only doing a few pounds of boost. Any more and then you run into issues with the ECU which is a nightmare since you can't tune them at all. I've wanted to do a supercharged SC400 for quite a while... but the ecu aspect makes it a pain. Many GM vehicles are similar where you can run small amounts of boost from the factory and will be fine, the GM management system just simply adjusts for it.

 

[Roxx]

It is funny how much difference a couple of hp makes. I haven’t drive it much but every so often i floor it and i go boosted tractor speed. I just keeping an eye on it.

I guess it is only 6 psi on the high of the curb. It wont push to much air on low rpms. That is the max you will get. I will put a boots gauge next and see exactly what it does and a temperature digital gauge.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I often wonder about that "only 5 lbs of boost" and if you go past 7 you need an ECU/fuel/injectors/etc....

From my experience with a turbo, it leans out pretty badly (over 14 AFR) if you push more than about 3.5 psi I wonder how lean it actually gets when you're at full boost with the supercharger...

It is funny how much difference a couple of hp makes. I haven’t drive it much but every so often i floor it and i go boosted tractor speed. I just keeping an eye on it.

I guess it is only 6 psi on the high of the curb. It wont push to much air on low rpms. That is the max you will get. I will put a boots gauge next and see exactly what it does and a temperature digital gauge.

Based on what James is saying, I'd get a boost gauge and an AFR gauge before anything else.