TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (10 Viewers)

[40LandCruising]

Great meeting you the other night! Bumper looks good!

But, it shouldn't be tipped up that bad! Something just seems a little odd. I know i've come down on it but it was still sitting straight on my truck. The side wings look off. Not saying you did anything wrong. Perhaps maybe use a heavy duty washer on one of the two mounting bolts to see if you can get it to tip back down a hair.

I see what your saying, it’s definitely way off. Using some washer as shims makes sense. Maybe but a washer in between the bumper and the frame on the bolts farther towards the front and not with the other.

 

[NCFJ]

Last Wednesday I installed a Bowfin Cruisers roof rack on Cotton. Friday my White Knuckle sliders came in. The sliders are top notch, super heavy-duty and the welds are absolutely beautiful. I have painted the sliders but I haven't installed them yet. Slider install will likely have to wait until after Carolina Relic Run. I need to focus this week on organizing my gear and packing the Crockpot for the event. I'm stoked about CRR coming up and about how things are going with Cotton as well.

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You have the line up most any Cruiserhead would love to have Dave, 40/60/80. They all run and are well maintained to you sir, well done!

 

[roadstr6]

Thanks, Stan.

 

[stevezero]

Cotton is lookin great, Dave. What kind of primer did you use under the appliance epoxy? I pick my sliders up this weekend, and will probably use the same paint on mine.

 

[roadstr6]

Cotton is lookin great, Dave. What kind of primer did you use under the appliance epoxy? I pick my sliders up this weekend, and will probably use the same paint on mine.

Thanks, Steve. It says not to use primer. I just wiped the metal down with acetone and sprayed it. Be advised that the appliance epoxy should be put on in one coat or otherwise multiple coats with 5 minutes in between. If you try to re-coat after 5 or 7 minutes it will wrinkle up on you. It is great paint though.

 

[stevezero]

Dropped my 80 series off at the shop that did Phtevens engine swap, so they can have the pleasure of swapping my head and stuff.. Gave them a laundry list of stuff to do while there, printed section of the FSM in a notebook, buttload of parts, head, intake, valve cover, vac lines, fuel filter, etc. We shall see how long it will take to get the phone call saying its done. He seemed more enthusiastic about doing it than i was about doing it (then again hes getting paid to do it)


AAA flatbed was quick....too quick LOL The towtruck driver must have been a hootch runner in a previous life.... that truck had a governor on it at 75, and dang if he didnt keep it as close to that speed as possible.

 

[SFROMAN]

Quick question

I’m looking at ordering an after market wiring harness for Toyota e locked axles.

I found one on low range off-road.

I thought slee had one but can’t seem to find it.

The factory harness from the 80 is not compatible with my lx450. This is according to some members. I still haven’t researched that myself.

Any other suggestions.

 

[jfz80]

Del. As i recall slee had the switch with pigtail but unsure if they had the rest of the harness was/is avail retail.

Low range has come up several times and is where i would have searched.

 

[joyRidaz]

Heavy into CRR prepping now that I’ve committed to bringing the “Joyota” my 1984 White fj60.

Did various random stuff, mostly nice to have but is fun to have some motivation:
- installed hilift mounting brackets on roof rack (brackets from @forrest5000 and jack from @tgadd), love the placement but dang it’s heavy.
- painted my tuffy to match brown interior, finally took my own advice on paint color and followed in @roadstr6 ‘s footsteps, now need to figure out padding.
- diy tested then bench-tested my two alternators and confirmed dead
- installed d-rings to install netting in cargo area
-re-installed skid plate
- filled and tested vintage Coleman stove and lantern last years when I was a kid. Took some time due to user error and a bunch of rat terms
- dryrun packing of gear into drawer system
- confirmed paperwork, renewed membership and three in a first aid kit and fire extinguidsher
- bought a cr@p-ton of gear from Wally World and amazon. Hoping tent and bags arrive by weekend.

Todo list:
- receive and install alternator
- test horn and cb radio
- bring my kid for their 1st camping and wheeling trip, it’s gonna be great! See y’all soon

 

[Roxx]

If you have the 80 harness you can run the 6 wires in it like @roadstr6 did. That is what @forrest5000 was going to do until we scrapped his wires

 

[roadstr6]

Quick question

I’m looking at ordering an after market wiring harness for Toyota e locked axles.

I found one on low range off-road.

I thought slee had one but can’t seem to find it.

The factory harness from the 80 is not compatible with my lx450. This is according to some members. I still haven’t researched that myself.

Any other suggestions.

Del, I just converted my non-locked 80 to factory lockers so it’s fairly fresh in my mind. Your LX has some of the locker wiring already in place in the main body harness that an 80 does not have, which is a bonus for LX owners. You will have the plug for the magic dial tucked behind the dash. You will already have the 5 wire harness in place from DS kick panel to DS rear quarter. Also, you have the actuator plug in the PS kick panel. All you need are: dial, actuator and last sections of wiring from main harness down to lockers F & R including the plugs. The things you need are totally compatible with the LC.

Coming to CRR? If so, We can discuss it in more detail then. If not, PM me.

 

[SFROMAN]

Del, I just converted my non-locked 80 to factory lockers so it’s fairly fresh in my mind. Your LX has some of the locker wiring already in place in the main body harness that an 80 does not have, which is a bonus for LX owners. You will have the plug for the magic dial tucked behind the dash. You will already have the 5 wire harness in place from DS kick panel to DS rear quarter. Also, you have the actuator plug in the PS kick panel. All you need are: dial, actuator and last sections of wiring from main harness down to lockers F & R including the plugs. The things you need are totally compatible with the LC.

Coming to CRR? If so, We can discuss it in more detail then. If not, PM me.

Parts I have from the donor

Harness for front locker. The part that comes from the engine compartment down to the actual locker.
Rear harness that comes from the locker to the rear quarter panel.
Switch.

Yes I am coming to CRR this weeekend and I will hit u up.
If I need another section of the harness I can probably get what I need from the donor.

 

[SFROMAN]

Pulled the bent up windshield frame from the body to get ready for the replacement coming from TN this weekend.

Also, replaced the bent up hood with the hood off the white one.
I plan to swap out the bent fenders with the one off the white 40. This will save me
Lots of body work time.

 

[SFROMAN]

In the pictures above of the windshield frame bracket. Is that a pin that has been sheared off from the impact? I’m pretty sure it is from what I can remember from my old 40.

Becuase the pin would essentially allow the frame to swing down right?

In this case the impact from the roll over caused the pins to sheer inside the bracket allowing the frame to separate from the body instead of swinging down onto the hood.

 

[jynx]

The frame coming your way has both complete hinges attached.

 

[SFROMAN]

The frame coming your way has both complete hinges attached.

Thanks.
I will hit up the “Tennessee guys” Friday or Saturday evening to get it from them before or after we enjoy a few cold ones. Haha

 

[roadstr6]

Parts I have from the donor

Harness for front locker. The part that comes from the engine compartment down to the actual locker.
Rear harness that comes from the locker to the rear quarter panel.
Switch.

Yes I am coming to CRR this weeekend and I will hit u up.
If I need another section of the harness I can probably get what I need from the donor.

I’m pretty sure the only other thing you’ll need is the control box that lives in the PS kick panel. Little box. I believe it says COMPUTER 4WHEEL DRIVE CONTROL right on it. EDIT: YOU WILL ALSO NEED THE SECTION OF WIRING THAT GOES UNDER THE REAR CROSS MEMBER FROM DS QUARTER TO PS QUARTER. This section has the connector that the wires from your rear axle plugs into. The rear wiring on my donor truck was pretty rough (hacked into for trailer wiring) so I stripped out the plug and re-pinned it into my original rear wiring section. It was not hard to do.

 

[forrest5000]

If you have the 80 harness you can run the 6 wires in it like @roadstr6 did. That is what @forrest5000 was going to do until we scrapped his wires

We?

 

[little_joe]

In the pictures above of the windshield frame bracket. Is that a pin that has been sheared off from the impact? I’m pretty sure it is from what I can remember from my old 40.

Becuase the pin would essentially allow the frame to swing down right?

In this case the impact from the roll over caused the pins to sheer inside the bracket allowing the frame to separate from the body instead of swinging down onto the hood.

Del, both pins sheared on impact; they were fine beforehand. Another nice surprise, the cowl looks to be in very good shape!

 

[little_joe]

Thanks, Steve. It says not to use primer. I just wiped the metal down with acetone and sprayed it. Be advised that the appliance epoxy should be put on in one coat or otherwise multiple coats with 5 minutes in between. If you try to re-coat after 5 or 7 minutes it will wrinkle up on you. It is great paint though.

Dave, I hope that works out better for you than it did for me. I used VHT Epoxy on my sliders and was very thorough in prep, and didn't use primer as per instructions. The paint did not hold up to road debris peppering them, and now I have to strip and repaint. What brand paint did you use?