TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (44 Viewers)

[jamesurq]

I have a nice Solenoid Boost controller/gauge/AFR/etc...

SCG-1 Solenoid Boost Controller Gauge

$250 if you want it. It's about $400. comes with the o2 sensor, solenoid, and gauge

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got the new bonded seal in place, lubricated with gear oil, and seated with the clutch gear. Pictured is the bonded seal covered by the clutch gear, with the wavespring on top. Take great care to make sure everything is super duper clean upon reassembly. I hit the mating surfaces with green scotchbrite on a die grinder lightly, just to brighten up the metal and remove all crud. I then stone the mating surfaces with an oiled 1000 grit stone.

Other half of the carrier:

Not pictured, but the two halves of the carrier are mated together and held with two small countersink head allen screws. I use bolts through opposing ring gear holes in both halves to get the alignment just right. Blue loctite on those bolts gives me peace of mind, although it's impossible for them to back out against the ring gear. Care is used to ensure that the clutch gear and wave ring are aligned when placing the top half on the bottom half.

Use shop air on a rubber tipped nozzle just pressed into the gland seal port to test the bonded seal operation. As expected, my gland seal operates properly, whereas this same test failed before. Feels good to have confirmation of the original problem

Ring gear is then heated with a torch (propane plumbers torch in my case) and slipped on. Super easy to do it this way. Once on and two opposing bolts are started to align the ring gear, install all others with a generous amount of red loctite. Make sure you remove the two you put in dry to align the ring gear after all others are in, and apply loctite, then reinstall.

Torque the ring gear bolts in a star pattern to distribute torque evenly, and paint the top of each bolt as you torque them. I use a normal paint pen, but white-out or a sharpie would also work. I do it in three rounds; hand tight with a ratchet, torque all to ~80, then torque again all to ~120. Torque spec is 120ft/lbs for this carrier. There is a paint mark on the head and the side of each bolt. Paint mark on the top of the head indicates torqued to 80#, then paint mark on the side indicates torque to 120#.

Once that fun is done, install new seals in the gland seal. Lubricate with gear oil. Slip it on taking great care to ensure you don't cut or roll a seal. Once that's in place, test again with shop air pressure and ensure that the locker actuates properly. As expected, the locker continues to work properly, so I pressed the carrier bearing on:

Now, to find the source of the metal shavings:

None on the passenger side, but it's getting new bearings and seal anyway.

Plan to finish it all up tonight.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Finished up last night. No metal shavings in the DS wheel bearings either, so not sure where those metal shavings came from. I took out the magnet from inside the diff when I shaved it, so I'll have to get back in and replace it with something next time I have the cover off to change fluid, maybe after GSMTR.

Mmm, working ARB, yummy

Lazy way to fill the diff up with gear oil. Put the cover on and the DS axle shaft in, jack the PS end high enough to be able to dump fluid right down the tube

 

[mtweller]

Lazy way to fill the diff up with gear oil. Put the cover on and the DS axle shaft in, jack the PS end high enough to be able to dump fluid right down the tube

Not "lazy".... smart!

 

[ROBsSON]

Got the wheel bearing and hub assembly replaced on the passenger and with some help got it done in about and hour and some change.

Still got some u joints to do in the rear drive shaft but drives so much smoother now. Maybe during the weekend I’ll be able to get the 60 back together and running again. Thanks again @GLTHFJ60 for the gasket!

 

[concretejungle]

Johnny, on your ARB leak, i had an interesting and somewhat heated discussion with one of the installers at East Coast Gears. They installed my front ARB and when i got it the air line was run the wrong way so it wouldn't fit in the housing without bending it. I eventually ended up chewing up the gears in that install so i went back to them and they sold me a new set of OEM gears and re-installed the air locker... well, when i picked it up i asked if i could open up the package to look at the airline. I did and it was the same old way, so i told them that wouldn't work and it had to be bent. the installer guy came in and i told him and he acted like i was an idiot. I said i promise you that this will not go into the housing even if you tip it in like you say. I said you have to run the air line a different way and i pushed it. He flipped and said he will not warranty that install now! I was like WTF are you talking about and he said if you touch that airline the o-ring seal will "walk" and that will create a leak. After some heating discussion asking how he expected me to fit it in place without moving it he played around with it and was showing how it would walk if it wasn't set just right.

So, just word of warning on the air line to the o-ring.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I think @jfz80 was telling me that story a few weeks ago Alex. What a pain. Do you have a picture of how the o-ring should be bent to prevent "walking"?

With the RD114, when the carrier bearing is pressed on, and the locking plate is installed with the carrier bearing cap, the o-ring gland can't move at all, especially with the copper line installed. With my scenario specifically, the copper line and (what I'm calling the) gland o-rings were not leaking, it was the bonded seal the entire time.

 

[concretejungle]

I don't have any pics unfortunately. And, since i'm not a gear genius the best i can explain is the round, ring that has the two o-rings in it and the air line connects to it, this is the piece that the air activates and slides the collar over to engage the locker. What he was showing me is if you mess with the angle of the air line coming in through the housing to put any side pressure on it, when you switch from forward to reverse, each time it will let this "ring" move or "walk" just a slight bit. But each time it moves it's allowing air to escape; at least that was his story.

If you have the gears open, look at that piece and spin the pinion forward and backwards and see if that slides to the left or right at all. If it doesn't then he says you're good. If it does, you have to fool with the airline to position it in a way that it does not move when you turn the pinion forward to reverse. hope that makes sense.

 

[40LandCruising]

In the midst of an Iron Pig rear bumper install now on my 80. Picked up the bumper from @concretejungle on Thursday and began work last night. Pulled off the bumper covers, and hitch last night. The bolts on the hitch were awful to remove. Pulled off the bumper cover mounts this morning and my dad cut the hole in the rear crossmember. Going to try and get it finished this afternoon.

 

[lumbee1]

View attachment 1682507 View attachment 1682508 View attachment 1682509 View attachment 1682511 In the midst of an Iron Pig rear bumper install now on my 80. Picked up the bumper from @concretejungle on Thursday and began work last night. Pulled off the bumper covers, and hitch last night. The bolts on the hitch were awful to remove. Pulled off the bumper cover mounts this morning and my dad cut the hole in the rear crossmember. Going to try and get it finished this afternoon.

Which bumper did you get?

 

[angerhater]

@GLTHFJ60 when you paint the torqued bolts, you should paint straight down and onto its seat. that way when you open it up again it will be easy to notice if anything or what thing has moved/ twisted...HTH

 

[40LandCruising]

Which bumper did you get?

It is an Iron Pig Offroad bumper, it’s about 10yrs old.

 

[40LandCruising]

Finally got the bumper on, not 100% done, have to install the bolts that add extra hitch strength. Also, it is evident it does not sit level, this is because of the bent piece on the bottom, installing the hitch bolts may help suck it up to the crossmember flush, and if that doesn’t I’ll have to heat and beat I guess.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@GLTHFJ60 when you paint the torqued bolts, you should paint straight down and onto its seat. that way when you open it up again it will be easy to notice if anything or what thing has moved/ twisted...HTH

Good call. Had considered doing that, but I'm assuming the paint will get washed off by the constant gear oil bath.

 

[forrest5000]

first steps of the dual batteries.

 

[stevezero]

View attachment 1683458 first steps of the dual batteries.

Aint aluminum grand.....

 

[40LandCruising]

Had a little bit of an upgrade today, netted 3.5”. The tires added 2” when I put them on. So I’m at 5.5” over stock, and for relic run I’m gonna be rollin on the 35s off the 40.

 

[roadstr6]

Last Wednesday I installed a Bowfin Cruisers roof rack on Cotton. Friday my White Knuckle sliders came in. The sliders are top notch, super heavy-duty and the welds are absolutely beautiful. I have painted the sliders but I haven't installed them yet. Slider install will likely have to wait until after Carolina Relic Run. I need to focus this week on organizing my gear and packing the Crockpot for the event. I'm stoked about CRR coming up and about how things are going with Cotton as well.

 

[concretejungle]

View attachment 1683804 View attachment 1683805 View attachment 1683806 View attachment 1683807 Had a little bit of an upgrade today, netted 3.5”. The tires added 2” when I put them on. So I’m at 5.5” over stock, and for relic run I’m gonna be rollin on the 35s off the 40.

Great meeting you the other night! Bumper looks good!

But, it shouldn't be tipped up that bad! Something just seems a little odd. I know i've come down on it but it was still sitting straight on my truck. The side wings look off. Not saying you did anything wrong. Perhaps maybe use a heavy duty washer on one of the two mounting bolts to see if you can get it to tip back down a hair.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Great meeting you the other night! Bumper looks good!

But, it shouldn't be tipped up that bad! Something just seems a little odd. I know i've come down on it but it was still sitting straight on my truck. The side wings look off. Not saying you did anything wrong. Perhaps maybe use a heavy duty washer on one of the two mounting bolts to see if you can get it to tip back down a hair.

Agreed...having one of the IPOR bumpers on a previous truck, there is a lot of adjust-ability using washers, strategically tightening certain bolts first, etc.