TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfz80
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James,
I don't know if I would trust those self tapping eye bolts directly into the truss through sheetrock. I would go up in the attic, lay a piece of 2x4 over the truss and run a longer machine eye bolt all the way up through the 2x4 and put a washer and nut on it. The ropes are fine. I just don't know about the attachments to the ceiling.
When you do get the top off it may be a good idea to cut off a section of each of the tubular posts that slide down in the body. If you do, you won't have to lift as high or fight as hard to get the top off next time.
I don't know if I would trust those self tapping eye bolts directly into the truss through sheetrock. I would go up in the attic, lay a piece of 2x4 over the truss and run a longer machine eye bolt all the way up through the 2x4 and put a washer and nut on it. The ropes are fine. I just don't know about the attachments to the ceiling.
When you do get the top off it may be a good idea to cut off a section of each of the tubular posts that slide down in the body. If you do, you won't have to lift as high or fight as hard to get the top off next time.
Advice appreciated on the eye bolts. I'll have to take a look and see what they're rated at, but they went in TIGHT... large screwdriver needed for leverage....
Not sure I understand what you mean about cutting a section of the tubular posts?
Please...no stinger bumpers.
You will see when the top comes off. There are two "pipes" on the top that slide into recessed tubes in the body. They slide in about 12" so you have to lift the top waaaay up to remove it from the body. Lifting it only an inch or two won't do it. It has to come way on up. You'll see what I mean when you get into it.
This pic shows the tubes pretty well.
I would leave the dowels (tubes) in place simply because it makes putting the top back on a little easier, however, you will definitely want to put some foam (or similar) on them for every time you turn around and run your face into one of them.
I really like Dave's idea of long bolts going into cross beams in the attic. Those tops are deceptively heavy.
I really like Dave's idea of long bolts going into cross beams in the attic. Those tops are deceptively heavy.
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Rice, I hear what you are saying but even if they were cut down by 6" it would make life sooo much easier. I didn't cut mine but I was damn sure tempted to!
RedHeadedStepChild
Proudly wearing my MC1R mutation!
I ran 5/16" eye bolts with a pilot hole up into my ceiling (centered on the joist of the above floor). Each one easily hung my weight (225 at the time) that in pine with 2-1/2" to 3" of engagement should be able to hang around 300# without pulling out. Each corner has 2, so conservatively the bolts could hang a combined 1800# - not that I'd ever try that.
Item of note: my top is an aftermarket fiberglass job, and though longer, is probably lighter than yours
Item of note: my top is an aftermarket fiberglass job, and though longer, is probably lighter than yours
Thanks folks. I did not know about the tubes... That will certainly complicate things.
Just start hitting the gym hard.... pretty soon you won't need the hoist.... or an engine for that matter.
Cleaning all those parts is half the battle. You're practically finished at this point.
I put a roof rack on the Turd this week. It's the ARB for the 100 series so it's about 4" narrower than the 60/80 series racks. Eric @forrest5000 has more of these for sale if anybody is interested. I used Trail Tailor clamps and fabbed up my own extension brackets to span the extra 2" on each side.
Looking good! It defies logic that the 100 Series rack is narrower than the 80 Series. The 100 feels so much bigger.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #1,077
New Brakes too. We finished up the front minus bolting on the wheels and checking out a drag up front. Anyone ever had issues with the 100 pads on 80 rotors? I knew you needed to grind the pad if going on a used rotor but thought I read new rotor did not matter as there would be no lip.
Anyhow big thanks to @fj40z for the help and enticing ole Greg aka @southerncruiser62 into a visit. The ride looked sweet man!
Anyhow big thanks to @fj40z for the help and enticing ole Greg aka @southerncruiser62 into a visit. The ride looked sweet man!
I've never heard of a situation that called for grinding new pads. If using old rotors the norm is to grind the rotors to remove any transfer material and allows the new pads to properly bed. You want to bed the new pads by doing gradual build ups of heat, taking it easy on them until the new transfer film is on the rotors.
jfz80
Cruisin’
- Thread starter
- #1,079
Ha. Well I've been doing the romp and stomp. 4-5 times from 50-5mph and then don't stop for next 10 or so on highway letting them cool. Dunno; read it in the Internet :/
The grinding refers to using the 100 series pads on 80 series rotors previously worn in with 80 series pads. The footprint of 100 pad is larger and part of that dimension includes a small strip that extends toward the center of the hub which rides/drags on a raised ridge if previously worn with the smaller 80 pad. I had thought I had read with new rotors it was a nonissue but tight so remove backing plate.
Small note dba rotors looked pretty darn good thickness for over 125k miles.
The grinding refers to using the 100 series pads on 80 series rotors previously worn in with 80 series pads. The footprint of 100 pad is larger and part of that dimension includes a small strip that extends toward the center of the hub which rides/drags on a raised ridge if previously worn with the smaller 80 pad. I had thought I had read with new rotors it was a nonissue but tight so remove backing plate.
Small note dba rotors looked pretty darn good thickness for over 125k miles.
