i've found a set of these ^ pretty invaluable when working in the shop...
TurboClunker (a.k.a. cheap-ass slaps a turbo on his LX)
- Thread starter Heckraiser
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i've found a set of these ^ pretty invaluable when working in the shop...
i've found a set of these ^ pretty invaluable when working in the shop...
BRILLIANT! I've gots to get me one of those.
- Thread starter
- #63
That's clever, would definitely be handy since I don't even know what most of the bolts I have are.
Beno mailed me a nutsack, so I took that as my hint to get started:
![20160513_145832[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160513_145832-1-webp.1259222/ "20160513_145832[1].webp")
Had a little time over the weekend, not much. I got the exhaust manifolds mostly off (holy crap those last two nuts are a pain). I ordered a few extra studs anticipating that some of them would turn out, but more than half turned out of the head. So if you're doing this yourself, I'd say just order a full set of new studs and nuts (13 of each).
I spent most of my time relocating my windshield washer bottle with some scrap metal I had laying around (I think the lock bars from my toolbox?). This step probably isn't 100% necessary, but it gives you a lot more space to play with and I have a feeling an intercooler will eventually occupy the space where the washer bottle used to live. Might move the radiator overflow bottle too.
![20160515_141713[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160515_141713-1-webp.1259226/ "20160515_141713[1].webp")
Beno mailed me a nutsack, so I took that as my hint to get started:
Had a little time over the weekend, not much. I got the exhaust manifolds mostly off (holy crap those last two nuts are a pain). I ordered a few extra studs anticipating that some of them would turn out, but more than half turned out of the head. So if you're doing this yourself, I'd say just order a full set of new studs and nuts (13 of each).
I spent most of my time relocating my windshield washer bottle with some scrap metal I had laying around (I think the lock bars from my toolbox?). This step probably isn't 100% necessary, but it gives you a lot more space to play with and I have a feeling an intercooler will eventually occupy the space where the washer bottle used to live. Might move the radiator overflow bottle too.
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- Thread starter
- #64
exhaust manifold out, studs in, making good progress, then...
Houston, we have a problem. I actually discussed buying a gasket set from Beno, but decided to cheap out on a Fel Pro. Turns out it's completely the wrong gasket (maybe for a 5vz?). No more 1fz gaskets available locally except from the insanely expensive local dealer. So now progress is stopped, all I can do is mock up and fiddle around until I get a new one mailed or find another locally.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
Well $#¡™!
Subscribed. I'd like a few more ponies on the cheap as well.
Waiting on parts is pretty much 90% of my project time.
alia176
SILVER Star
Now would be a good time to remove the oil cooler and clean it out! You got the time and all.....
- Thread starter
- #69
Mock-up revealed more problems. The turbine housing on this turbo is really big and combined with the high placement of the turbo with the treadstone manifold, it's just bumping into a lot of stuff.
Yeah, that's not going to fit under the hood. Maybe an above-the-hood-mounted intercooler just hangin' in the breeze? Might hinder visibility.
![20160518_152500[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160518_152500-1-webp.1260486/ "20160518_152500[1].webp")
I could clock the compressor housing towards the TB and get some different different couplers, but it's a really short shot from the turbo to the TB and I'm not sure if I can fit the turns in and also have space for my BOV. Aaaand... even if I did, I would have to buy a bunch of crap and then re-do it when I eventually add in an intercooler. It's a minor problem and I have a few ideas kicking around that might work.
Now, this is a bigger problem:
![20160518_152838[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160518_152838-1-webp.1260487/ "20160518_152838[1].webp")
![20160518_152528[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160518_152528-1-webp.1260488/ "20160518_152528[1].webp")
The compressor housing is bumping into the water line that runs along the side of the valve cover. It's hitting right where the little bracket is. The turbo needs to go another 1/2" towards the valve cover at least before it will mate up cleanly with the manifold. I could use some suggestions here. The bracket is welded to the pipe, otherwise I might try to remove the bracket and bend the pipe. I don't think I want to try to cut/grind the bracket off while it's on the truck. I also don't want to drain the coolant, but that might be inevitable at this point. :/
So my options at this point are:
1) remove the pipe, cut/grind off the bracket, attempt to bend/pound a curve into the pipe then hope the whole thing bolts back up and still holds water.
2) remove the pipe, cut out a ~6" section of it and replace with rubber hose which can bend around the compressor housing. Would it be dumb to do this while it's on the truck? Metal flakes in the coolant is probably not good.
3) Attempt to cut/grind the bracket off and then bend the line without unhooking anything.
I am very open to suggestions, warnings, opinions that you might have for this problem, so please chime in!
Yeah, that's not going to fit under the hood. Maybe an above-the-hood-mounted intercooler just hangin' in the breeze? Might hinder visibility.
I could clock the compressor housing towards the TB and get some different different couplers, but it's a really short shot from the turbo to the TB and I'm not sure if I can fit the turns in and also have space for my BOV. Aaaand... even if I did, I would have to buy a bunch of crap and then re-do it when I eventually add in an intercooler. It's a minor problem and I have a few ideas kicking around that might work.
Now, this is a bigger problem:
The compressor housing is bumping into the water line that runs along the side of the valve cover. It's hitting right where the little bracket is. The turbo needs to go another 1/2" towards the valve cover at least before it will mate up cleanly with the manifold. I could use some suggestions here. The bracket is welded to the pipe, otherwise I might try to remove the bracket and bend the pipe. I don't think I want to try to cut/grind the bracket off while it's on the truck. I also don't want to drain the coolant, but that might be inevitable at this point. :/
So my options at this point are:
1) remove the pipe, cut/grind off the bracket, attempt to bend/pound a curve into the pipe then hope the whole thing bolts back up and still holds water.
2) remove the pipe, cut out a ~6" section of it and replace with rubber hose which can bend around the compressor housing. Would it be dumb to do this while it's on the truck? Metal flakes in the coolant is probably not good.
3) Attempt to cut/grind the bracket off and then bend the line without unhooking anything.
I am very open to suggestions, warnings, opinions that you might have for this problem, so please chime in!
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I wonder if a spacer between the manifold and turbine housing would help. Back in my DSM days we dented the water pipe, but its much more substantial than that particular pipe.
I love that turbo! Haha
Ok here is what I would do.....
I agree with you that if you rotate the turbo to point directly at the TB you won't fit the MAF, BOV, etc that you would need in what would be about 6-7" of pipe.
I might just go ahead and rotate it down... point the turbo outlet down and bite the bullet and grab a cheap intercooler that has inlet and outlet on the same side. Something like this:
But in a 3" instead of a 3.5" so you can just slide it behind the passenger side of the grill. Route the compressor outlet to the bottom and take the outlet and bring it back to the TB. It will require you to cut a couple holes in the apron, you can see how this was done in the 6bt thread, he did a great job.
As for the water line you could gingerly take some (maybe 1/4") off the compressor housing once you find out just where you want to clock it. And cut and bend the water line out of place. For my build, I am going to cut it out completely, put an AN fitting on the 2 bolt flange and run hose.
Ok here is what I would do.....
I agree with you that if you rotate the turbo to point directly at the TB you won't fit the MAF, BOV, etc that you would need in what would be about 6-7" of pipe.
I might just go ahead and rotate it down... point the turbo outlet down and bite the bullet and grab a cheap intercooler that has inlet and outlet on the same side. Something like this:
But in a 3" instead of a 3.5" so you can just slide it behind the passenger side of the grill. Route the compressor outlet to the bottom and take the outlet and bring it back to the TB. It will require you to cut a couple holes in the apron, you can see how this was done in the 6bt thread, he did a great job.
As for the water line you could gingerly take some (maybe 1/4") off the compressor housing once you find out just where you want to clock it. And cut and bend the water line out of place. For my build, I am going to cut it out completely, put an AN fitting on the 2 bolt flange and run hose.
Looking at it again I think you could get that water pipe to fit just reshaping that bracket and giving it a little push....
Start looking at the A/C line now as I had to move it for my downpipe on my current truck. But it was literally unbolting it and pulling it over and adding another layer of heat wrap.
Start looking at the A/C line now as I had to move it for my downpipe on my current truck. But it was literally unbolting it and pulling it over and adding another layer of heat wrap.
- Thread starter
- #73
I was planning on that basic shape of intercooler, but actually placing it facing up (top mount style) but behind the passenger side headlight. Like a top mount, but in front of and to the side of the engine, rather than right on top of it for better temps.
OK, so I'm hearing from Ryan and tiptoez that it's OK to try buggering up that pipe, so I might just see what I can do to make room. I guess if I foul it up too bad, I can always just replace with hose (I feel much better knowing that you'll replace the whole thing with hose). Thanks for the confidence booster guys!
OK, so I'm hearing from Ryan and tiptoez that it's OK to try buggering up that pipe, so I might just see what I can do to make room. I guess if I foul it up too bad, I can always just replace with hose (I feel much better knowing that you'll replace the whole thing with hose). Thanks for the confidence booster guys!
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Yep, I am literally going to cut the pipe off right at the 2 bolt flange on top of the thermostat weld an AN fitting on and route a hose for the entire length so I can put it wherever I need to. Part of the fun of being the first to try things. haha. As long as you have a scoop or something for the intercooler, you really need some direct air flow. Ducted A/A intercoolers are about 73-75% efficient and A/A without airflow are as low as 20%.
- Thread starter
- #75
30 seconds with the BFH, crisis averted. :edit: I tried pounding it with the bracket unbolted and it would just bounce back into position (and mildly bend the bracket). If you're following along at home, just leave everything bolted up and pound right on the bracket with your best hammer.
![20160518_170501[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160518_170501-1-webp.1260560/ "20160518_170501[1].webp")
![20160518_170414[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160518_170414-1-webp.1260561/ "20160518_170414[1].webp")
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Haha yeah nothing to worry about. You have a badass turbo!!
- Thread starter
- #77
Well I only picked it because you told me to, lol.
Not exactly what I had in mind, but this basic routing scheme should work with a shut hood (turbine housing will be wearing a blanket so the pipe doesn't heat up too much).
![20160518_204453[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20160518_204453-1-webp.1260599/ "20160518_204453[1].webp")
Not exactly what I had in mind, but this basic routing scheme should work with a shut hood (turbine housing will be wearing a blanket so the pipe doesn't heat up too much).
Can you cut that silicone elbow down?
- Thread starter
- #79
MY LX is no looker, so I have no problem with cutting a hole in the hood. My buddy who built the homemade racecar on page one has been trying his hand building various carbon fiber and composite body parts for it, so he's dying to "make something" for my truck. I'm thinking a hood scoop would be a good way to let him put his stamp on the clunker
:edit:
I think I could, but the way it's feng shui'd in there now actually seems pretty good to me. I'll have to see once it's all clamped together. It would actually work great if the coupler was more like 110* instead of 90*, but it's pretty bendy, so I think it will work. *knocks on wood* I plan to re-use that coupler later on for the intercooler, so I'm hesitant to cut it up unless it really makes sense to.
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Nice, that looks like it should work. I think they make u-shaped silicone pipes, you could get one and cut it at 110.
Probably a dumb idea, but can the way the turbo be rotated where it connects to the manifold? That would point the intake backward (that's how the supercharger is). It looks like that may also line up the outlet with the intake manifold. Not sure if there's enough room for that though.
Probably a dumb idea, but can the way the turbo be rotated where it connects to the manifold? That would point the intake backward (that's how the supercharger is). It looks like that may also line up the outlet with the intake manifold. Not sure if there's enough room for that though.
