Builds Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cruiserfj08
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Wish I could upload one but im not sure how to. I've never been able to send a video from my phone.
got the cable locker actuator and bits disassembled, cleaned up and powder coated last night.
also got the worst part of the locker install out of the way. Opening up the axle housing for the locking hub. I used a gasket as a template and a carbide burr to remove the material. What makes this difficult is keeping the metal shavings out of the axle housing. This is my third housing I've prepped like this and it doesn't really get much easier.
here it is prepped for surgery
no metal shavings in the housing and the two long studs installed in this photo as well.
here it is prepped for surgery
no metal shavings in the housing and the two long studs installed in this photo as well.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Been thinking next time I open an axle up like this, I would put some rare earth magnets at the bottom. I know you can clean them off, but seems like a good thing. I opened up a NV4500 and it had several of them on the bottom inside the case.
The cable locker as well as the Toyota elocker requires a longer splined axle shaft to be used on one side of the diff. On the rear this would be the short side axle shaft which is the same for all 40s 60s and 70 series rigs. On the front however since the diff is oriented facing backwards it needs the longer shaft on the driver side. This shaft was never made by Toyota for a 40 series axle housing and a 60 driver side shaft is longer since that's where the 60 axle gets its additional length. I think a 70 series locked shaft could possibly work but they have long been discontinued.
So knowing all of this we ordered a 40 series long splined shaft from trail gear. Unfortunately though I didn't realize that all their shafts have 30 splines at the birfield as well as the diff so they can be used with their upgraded birfields. All the factory Toyota birfields are 27 spline at the inner axle shaft.
So we were faced with a decision, upgrade both birfields and shafts which would require disassembling the knuckles entirely to clearance the inside of the knuckle ball for the larger birfields (since this is a early 40 axle) this route would also require updating to short body hubs. OR have a custom shaft made..since we already have this long splined heavy duty longfield shaft I think there is enough material on the birf side to turn it down and respline it to 27 splines.
I called Dutchman axle in Utah and went over my idea and he said it wouldn't be a problem. So we sent him the old shaft and the longfield shaft as well as the birfield for fitment and comparison.
In the mean time I went ahead and put the front end back together without the driver axle and birfield and the drive shaft so the truck can be driven until the shaft arrives.
So knowing all of this we ordered a 40 series long splined shaft from trail gear. Unfortunately though I didn't realize that all their shafts have 30 splines at the birfield as well as the diff so they can be used with their upgraded birfields. All the factory Toyota birfields are 27 spline at the inner axle shaft.
So we were faced with a decision, upgrade both birfields and shafts which would require disassembling the knuckles entirely to clearance the inside of the knuckle ball for the larger birfields (since this is a early 40 axle) this route would also require updating to short body hubs. OR have a custom shaft made..since we already have this long splined heavy duty longfield shaft I think there is enough material on the birf side to turn it down and respline it to 27 splines.
I called Dutchman axle in Utah and went over my idea and he said it wouldn't be a problem. So we sent him the old shaft and the longfield shaft as well as the birfield for fitment and comparison.
In the mean time I went ahead and put the front end back together without the driver axle and birfield and the drive shaft so the truck can be driven until the shaft arrives.
assembled the hard top sides with new sliding windows (same as last build)
building another rain gutter
had to install the hard top sides rear header and pieces over the front doors to position and tack weld the 7 rear rain gutter pieces.
building another rain gutter
had to install the hard top sides rear header and pieces over the front doors to position and tack weld the 7 rear rain gutter pieces.
once the 7 rear rain gutter pieces are tack welded together (lightly since they are sitting on painted panels) The rain gutter was removed off the truck and fully welded up. Once the 7 rear pieced are fully welded I set the fiberglass cap in place and positioned the two front rain gutter sections and tacked them together. Then remove the fiberglass and finish welding. This below is the finished product which is ready for powder coating and then riveting.
Rain gutter is back from powder coating
Used the rivet tool I made for the last roof job
Riveting is done. Time for some sealer
Gorgeous, what a stunning turn around!!!!! I guess you guys like the Mustard, me too...........................
On your first rig you installed a ladder to access the rack. I have a 5X7 full size Con-Fer rack that I was thinking about finding a ladder and mount for, although my rack has gutter mounts. Any ideas where I might be able to source this stuff?
Thanks, yep Tucker wanted to stay with the mustard. My next 40 build will be a different color. No idea on a ladder. The gobi rack came with the ladder. I suppose you could make one relatively easy
got the gutter sealed up last night so the top is off to linex to have the inside sprayed white. Then off to the painter to spray the exterior white same color as the bezel.
Got the ac finished up last weekend. It's a much better system than the previous setup since this engine already had a compressor on it and it was even 12volt. No monkeying around with junky brackets and funky belts like with aftermarket kits. Two custom lines was all that needed to be made. Oh and I wired up the factory ac idle up as well so when the compressor cycles on it idles the engine up to about 1100 rpm. The idle solenoid, vacuum line, and diaphragm are all mounted on the pump from the factory so all I had to do was run one wire and voila. Super clean set up.
The drier bracket I made for the previous build was reused.
New condenser which is slightly larger than the one previously supplied with the kit.
Of course a new drier
Here is the old condenser and rad support which was damaged in the roll. The brackets I made out of aluminum angle survived so I reused them.
The drier bracket I made for the previous build was reused.
New condenser which is slightly larger than the one previously supplied with the kit.
Of course a new drier
Here is the old condenser and rad support which was damaged in the roll. The brackets I made out of aluminum angle survived so I reused them.
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Brackets on the new condenser
Here it is bolted up. It has about 3/4 air gap between the radiator and the grill.
This condenser wasn't painted black like the previous one so it's a little more noticeable behind the grill. I personally kinda like it.
Trying to show the clearance here. Tight but no contact whatsoever so completely serviceable if the need arises. Plus the air cleaner comes out with two bolts.
Here it is bolted up. It has about 3/4 air gap between the radiator and the grill.
This condenser wasn't painted black like the previous one so it's a little more noticeable behind the grill. I personally kinda like it.
Trying to show the clearance here. Tight but no contact whatsoever so completely serviceable if the need arises. Plus the air cleaner comes out with two bolts.
Here are the two custom hoses to use with the hzj105 compressor.
This hoses ended up being a third the length of the original setup and much better fit. It has a 90 degree end at the condenser.
Here is the unit. I had moved the passenger seat back a bit on this build so a bit more leg room with that blower unit.
This hoses ended up being a third the length of the original setup and much better fit. It has a 90 degree end at the condenser.
Here is the unit. I had moved the passenger seat back a bit on this build so a bit more leg room with that blower unit.
What length rivets did you use on the roof cap cross strip that sits right behind the inside of the windshield frame?
I don't remember to be honest. Will need to look at the box they came in.
