Builds Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore (1 Viewer)

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Inspirational detail, awesome 40!!!!!! Sorry about the roll over.
 
With the engine positioned how we wanted it in the frame we enlisted the help of my friend john in making some 40 series mounts for the hz/hdt style engines. The idea was since john has a fab shop and builds parts on a regular basis to 1. the mounts would be much nicer than anything we could make with an angle grinder and a welder and 2. He would reproduce these and sell them in his online store to people doing these swaps. Here is what we came up with..
John cut out the plates out of 3/16 steel on his cnc plasma table and i welded them up and welded them to the frame.

So I see you fabricated these mounts and then shortened them to clear the radiator connections later. I have 2 questions about placement of the motor. I am about to do this exact setup.

1) It appears that the fore-aft positioning was set in a certain sequence. You first put the H55 on a 2f flywheel cover with the frame ears attached to set the position for the new frame crossmember. Then, with the H55 position fixed, you swapped the 2f flywheel cover for the 1hz cover and dropped the 1hz in. The front motor mounts on the 1hz were then mated to the new fabricated frame motor mounts to set the position. Did I miss anything? The angle of the motor looks like it is set based on radiator clearance from the fan.

2) Did your friend John ever get around to fabricating these front motor mounts that are the correct height?
 
He did not because the mounts didn't work as planned. They were fabricated with the tub off the frame. When we went to install the tub the engine was tilted up too much in the front.
In hindsight here is what I would do.

Fit the trans as I did front to back except use a late model cross member that will tilt the engine. 6/85 up 60 cross member modded or easy to make a custom one. The slant will give more clearance between bell housing and firewall at trans tunnel.
For frame mounts I'd make custom. You'll want tub in place and engine will be fairly level when back of valve cover to firewall clearance is correct.
Radiator: highly recommend making a new support as I did. This will make life much easier and make for a cleaner install. I also fitted a 12ht fan which is slightly smaller diameter.

Hope that helps
 
So I see you fabricated these mounts and then shortened them to clear the radiator connections later. I have 2 questions about placement of the motor. I am about to do this exact setup.

1) It appears that the fore-aft positioning was set in a certain sequence. You first put the H55 on a 2f flywheel cover with the frame ears attached to set the position for the new frame crossmember. Then, with the H55 position fixed, you swapped the 2f flywheel cover for the 1hz cover and dropped the 1hz in. The front motor mounts on the 1hz were then mated to the new fabricated frame motor mounts to set the position. Did I miss anything? The angle of the motor looks like it is set based on radiator clearance from the fan.

2) Did your friend John ever get around to fabricating these front motor mounts that are the correct height?

Also Tucker's hz came from a 105 so his block side mounts were different from the much more common 70 series block mounts that was one of the reasons we didn't further pursue making additional sets. Along with the fact that a tilted cross member would be better.
Secondly depending on which year 40 series you will be installing it into something to be aware of is that with the transmission mounted as high as we had it required modifying the trans tunnel significantly. However if it's going into a 79+ tub a taller trans cover is available.
 
Just a brief update. We had California push-pull inc. make some custom cables for the cable locked thirds. We took some rough measurements and sent them the factory 60 series cables to use as a guide and they made these custom. Got them installed this weekend. I was pretty pleased with the outcome, super clean and much easier to access than the cable locker knob in my 40.

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Which series top cover is on your H55F? What transmission is the shift lever from? Did you fabricate the transmission cover? It sure looks custom.

40 series top cover on a new h55. New 60 series lever I modified and custom tunnel cover I made. Everything is covered earlier in the thread.
 
Gorgeous build. What year is she?
 
Very nice work. So sad about previous build but you got right back in the saddle, simply awesome!!!!!! You inspire all of us.
 
We ordered some fittings to convert the toyota 16x1.5 threads on the steering box and steering pump to a common jic for the custom power steering hose. This way a replacement power steering hose can be made at any hydraulic hose shop.

Where did you get those from? The High Pressure lines and threads seem to be all over the place on these Toyota PS boxes. @Racer65 posted this up on the unobtainium thread.
 
Where did you get those from? The High Pressure lines and threads seem to be all over the place on these Toyota PS boxes. @Racer65 posted this up on the unobtainium thread.
I got my -6 JIC to M16 and M17 adapters from Orme Brothers.
 
I have a question. I note that you powder coat a lot of your parts and then paint them. Does the paint stick to the powder coat ok? Do you have to do anything special to the powder coat? Is it worth the extra step.
 
I have a question. I note that you powder coat a lot of your parts and then paint them. Does the paint stick to the powder coat ok? Do you have to do anything special to the powder coat? Is it worth the extra step.

Paint sticks to it great and no special steps. In my opinion it provides an extra layer of protection.
 

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