Builds Troopie build

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i agree
but
also know the customer and his driving style and the purpose of the build. he is Grandpa out for a sunday drive through (30,000 km) back country roads.

the other point is how often are you on heavy boost or creating high EGTs when below 50 kph? usually you can drop a gear taking the load off the engine to accomplish the need.

intercoolers might be nice for the mud or winch competitions but i have yet to see personally where a water to air intercooler might have helped me below 50K ...

for certain applications this design would be important or add to the cool factor.
 
welcome Gramps, i do hope you enjoy watching the transformation of your baby...
 
Wayne, Watch who you're calling 'grandpa'

Too funny!

Hey, Crushers, be careful - he is the paying customer after all.

Great looking work so far - keep it up man, and yeah, the ladies is nice

:cheers:
 
If you are going to start each update with these kind of pics I will follow it carefully .. :hillbilly: !!!!

Now serious .. outstanding idea about the removable fender ..
 
I like water to air just because it is more compact, I also think it is more efficient at all times. No piping routed through the engine comp, no extra heat, nothing in front of the rad, it's win win. The only thing I wouldn't like about it is having to find a place to put the rad with a troopy - I didn't have that problem. More things to go wrong?? Maybe, but I haven't had a problem yet!!! crossing fingers.
 
that is for moving around the shop, not for driving.
since the diffs are being completely stripped and PC with Elockers installed it didn't make sense to stick all them back on.

quite the attention to detail there John.
 
Gramps, all,
I too am taking notes on this build, as just recently I purchased a 1997 FJ75 troopy diesal, and with 185K on the clock. I'm on a budget build, watching the pennies, but endevering to get quality and dependability. Thanks for taking the time to post photos and describe your actions.
Gaffa
 
the old girl moved into the shop yesterday to get a 1.5" body lift.
since this is a very extensive build i needed the lift on to set up for the rear PTO winch, the proper height for the side bars, location of the top of the bumper, the front side bars and the location of the rear bumper and side step.
first things first.

here is a list of what is being done to the truck over the next few months::steer:
P/C = sand blasted and powder coated light matte grey

Metric bolts through out, S/S preferred where acceptable in tolerance specified, plated where strength is needed.
Steel below window height, alloy above window height.
Painting and final prep of body to be arranged by customer.

PTO winch rear with possible shaft drive to the front. inspected and corrected, painted.
Tabs for lights
Protection for lights P/C
Skid bars from under bumper to below rad, P/C
Shackle protectors, P/C
Custom shackles, P/C
Bumper like the original Roo bar but in steel and modified accordingly with tow triangles, P/C

Front HD 70 series front diff dismantled, rebuilt using top quality parts, P/C, factory electric locker, HD birfields, manual locking hubs, vent line to frame.

Dobinson spring pack with rubber bushings
RS9000 shocks
Dropped sway bar mounts

Frame, modified as required, P/C gray, same gray as all the other P/C stuff

Engine/tranny/ t/case removed, replacement inspected, corrected reinstalled

Turbo, top mount intercooler, air compressor, wabasto, sensors, manual glow system, upgraded alternator, dual batteries with isolator,

Larger rad (check for alloy replacement),
Factory viscous fan.
Full Clutch replace with slave and master also replaced with new

Rear full floater diff removed, dismantled, P/C, reassembled with factory electric locker, vent line to the frame level.

Driveshaft inspected and corrected, P/C

Secondary fuel tank installed, P/C, S/S fuel line to the front with feeder pump and dual filters. Must have drain in S/S fuel tanks (both) at lowest point of tanks; drains must be lockable when shut.

Skid tube protection, P/C

Side bar protection with expanded steel “running board” and removable fender protection front, P/C

Rear bumper with dual removable swing out tire carriers, hidden winch, hitch, wiring, tow triangles, signal light inserts protected by expanded steel, P/C

Skid bars to rear of axle and out the side of the body to the outer edge of the tires to make a step with expanded steel.

1.5” body lift with grade 8 bolting applied.

Remove side windows and replace with alloy panels with storage boxes and access from outside. Send side windows and associated trim with finished vehicle.

Inner rear doors with drop down panels with storage inside, P/C

Inner side panels with inner storage, interior and exterior access, body colour.

Front door panels leave alone.

Rear diff fluid level sensor/t/case level sensor/tranny level sensor/pyrometer/water temp/oil pressure at turbo gauges. Factory gauges still functional.
No stereo or speakers-another item to be sorted out by customer

Wabasto heater.

Interior rear heater hooked into plumbing with remote switch.

Cargo barrier with access slider to rear and removable from truck, P/C

Hidden floor boxes were possible.

Hood strong enough to walk and stand on left in whatever finish it came with; intercooler scoop and receiver for windshield protector screen.

Alloy windshield protector screen, P/C, removable with top mount clips.

Alloy roof rack with tabs for 4 front off road lights and protection, receiver for windscreen, slide out sand bridging, rear back up light tabs, disconnect electrical wiring for removal of roof rack, mounting for roof top tent, fold down rear storage flap for sand bridges, mount for high-lift and shovel on side but tucked in tight, single level, tabs on the front for removable wire rope, P/C

Small roof vents, four if possible, that are sealable when closed, low profile.

Rubber flex mud flaps to be installed at all 4 wheel openings.

Water tank under body 50L size, with S/S fittings. Must be removable.
:hhmm:

starting on the body lift:


Holy Cow, thats quite a build list, did the owner describe all this or was he simply looking to survive the zombie apocalypse? Throw about 10,000 rounds of ammo in there and he should be ready for it either way...

Im definately looking forward to see the pics on this build-up! Loving the troop to, hard to beat for a starting point.
:popcorn: :beer:
 
it was a year long coversation that resulted in this build even taking place.
the front bumper is complete, side bars are completed, the sliders can not be completed till the rear bumper is done.
the rear bumper is starting with the rear mount PTO being installed.
the PTO had seized bearings which are on order.
the factory tank is now up for sale since it is in the way of the PTO drive shaft.
custom middle and rear tanks are being measured up.

it is important to have front bumper protection:
corner protection 011.webp
corner protection 025.webp
 
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couple more bumper pics.
customer wanted uprights with cable attachment points.
corner protection 028.webp
corner protection 029.webp
corner protection 022.webp
 
front fender side bar protection:
had to be removable and strong.
complex bends with hinged rear mount onto the sliders.
corner protection 030.webp
corner protection 031.webp
corner protection 032.webp
 
if I can ask .. ( and under the impresion that will be a dumb question at the end ) which it's the idea of the hitch reciever under the winch cradle .?
 
not a dumb question at all buddy, slide in pinto hitch, ball hitch, anything that you can do with the rear hitch can be done with the front now.
you can get much tighter turning for parking trailers, at least that is what i use mine for.

basicly, if you are going custom then might as well cover all the bases.
 
it is a challenge using the bender with compound curves but also a lot of joy once the bar is finished properly.

dropping the fuel tank today, installing the PTO drive with reversed output shaft, figuring the PTO drive shaft and the final location of the PTO winch.
 
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