Builds Troopie build
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crushers
post ho
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- #82
PTO switch to rear output.
as you can see if you just flip the guts you end up with gears that don't line up properly. you need to modify the spacer alignment, modify the shifting fork, the rest is plug and play.
if you look at the way the gears are cut you can see why it is important to have them line up perfectly.
as you can see if you just flip the guts you end up with gears that don't line up properly. you need to modify the spacer alignment, modify the shifting fork, the rest is plug and play.
if you look at the way the gears are cut you can see why it is important to have them line up perfectly.
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #86
the rear mount for the PTO winch head.
we used the orignal rollers but modified the clearences. one of the bad parts of a PTO winch is the cable has a habit of jumping off the drum. we narrowed the spread of the center rollers according to the dimensions of a Warn roller fairlead.
this will keep tension on the cable or rope to keep it tight to the drum.
the front mount to be attached to the rear crossmember. this will reinforce the meat that needs to be removed. it is bolted top and bottom.
we used the orignal rollers but modified the clearences. one of the bad parts of a PTO winch is the cable has a habit of jumping off the drum. we narrowed the spread of the center rollers according to the dimensions of a Warn roller fairlead.
this will keep tension on the cable or rope to keep it tight to the drum.
the front mount to be attached to the rear crossmember. this will reinforce the meat that needs to be removed. it is bolted top and bottom.
I don't think your bumper looks as good as hers, but I love your work (and hers).
Your rear winch mounting, and fairlead hole through the rear crossmember is excellent.
I have been planning exactly that for my truck for a while, moving my existing front low mount to the rear, once I get a new Warn highmount (with twin motors and Gigglepin internals) for the front.
I need to discuss the mods to the rear crossmember with my engineer, to ensure he will sign off on the chassis modifications, and these photos are perfect to show him what the plans are.
How did you connect the side braces to the chassis, are there captive nuts, or did you drill and bolt right through the chassis?
Not sure I like the way the PTO connection to the winch hangs down under the rear cross member though.
And what are you attaching those short recovery points to, just the outside/rear surface of the bar?
My plan is to have the recovery points a lot longer, bolting alongside the outer surface of each chassis member, and extending through the rear bumper surface, so the recovery points are the brackets for the rear bumper that attach to the chassis, and you are pulling on the chassis when recovering.
My plan is to have the recovery points a lot longer, bolting alongside the outer surface of each chassis member, and extending through the rear bumper surface, so the recovery points are the brackets for the rear bumper that attach to the chassis, and you are pulling on the chassis when recovering.
Is there a freespool lever on the winch, and if so, how will it be accessed?
You mention a stacked tyre carrier, are you mounting two wheels on the one pivot/side, one above the other?
You mention a stacked tyre carrier, are you mounting two wheels on the one pivot/side, one above the other?
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #99
there was an access hole drilled on the outside of the frame to get to the 4 bolts.
the truck is getting a further 2 1/2" spring lift, the PTO drive shaft is tucked up above and behind the rear diff, the rear fuel cell will be above the shaft with a notch cut in for the shaft to reach the rear PTO. under the PTO drive shaft/ fuel cell will be skid bars to protect both. the center fuel cell will be similar and it too will be protected by a skid bar assembly. the front shaft will be recessed into the factory fuel tank and both the factory fuel tank skid plate and the custom skid bar protection will protect both.
i wanted to have the PTO drive as level as reasonably possible and below the fuel tanks.
with all new steady bearings, seals, ujoints and mounts the full PTO drive should be vibration free, very quiet and reliable.
there is going to be a lever on the back bumper or just inside the rear door for engaging the PTO drive as well as an access panel above it should there need to be any servicing done.
we have made a bumper extension that is drastically overkill and the bumper will attach to these. these extensions are in direct alignment to the frame side rails and yet incorporating the rear cross member. there is 9 grade 8 bolts to each of the 2 bumper extension and from those the bumper will have 7 bolts per side. the tow mounts will be welded to the rear bumper and under the section where the frame extensions are located.
in theory, and realistically, you will have to yank the entire last 4" of frame and the cross members, PTO winch mounts front and rear and the factory reinforcement frame off the truck to have anything break.
the usual tire mounts that people use are the single 1500/2000/3000 lb spindle mounts. they are very strong but i do not like the idea of 40,000 km trip of back roads of north and south America bouncing a 120 lbs tire. i decided to make an upper and lower tire swing out mount which will bolt to the rear side body bar and welded to the rear bumper. this will give ample support to the tire swing out.
if you look at the pic you can see where the lower spindle will fit inside the support for the upper spindle. the upper spindle mount will be roughly where the solid rod is now. there is a cradle for the lower spindle welded inside the C channel main beam with a hole drilled through the top. from this the solid rod positioning peg holds the upper cradle in place perfectly in line with the lower so there will be no binding. the upper spindle cradle is made from 5" long 3.5" wide solid material that was turned on a lathe to fit the spindle perfectly. around the top of the spindle peg will be the weld. this will make for a very solid mount.
the owner asked that everything be overkill and extremely strong. i believe i will be accomplishing this goal.
clear as mud??
the truck is getting a further 2 1/2" spring lift, the PTO drive shaft is tucked up above and behind the rear diff, the rear fuel cell will be above the shaft with a notch cut in for the shaft to reach the rear PTO. under the PTO drive shaft/ fuel cell will be skid bars to protect both. the center fuel cell will be similar and it too will be protected by a skid bar assembly. the front shaft will be recessed into the factory fuel tank and both the factory fuel tank skid plate and the custom skid bar protection will protect both.
i wanted to have the PTO drive as level as reasonably possible and below the fuel tanks.
with all new steady bearings, seals, ujoints and mounts the full PTO drive should be vibration free, very quiet and reliable.
there is going to be a lever on the back bumper or just inside the rear door for engaging the PTO drive as well as an access panel above it should there need to be any servicing done.
we have made a bumper extension that is drastically overkill and the bumper will attach to these. these extensions are in direct alignment to the frame side rails and yet incorporating the rear cross member. there is 9 grade 8 bolts to each of the 2 bumper extension and from those the bumper will have 7 bolts per side. the tow mounts will be welded to the rear bumper and under the section where the frame extensions are located.
in theory, and realistically, you will have to yank the entire last 4" of frame and the cross members, PTO winch mounts front and rear and the factory reinforcement frame off the truck to have anything break.
the usual tire mounts that people use are the single 1500/2000/3000 lb spindle mounts. they are very strong but i do not like the idea of 40,000 km trip of back roads of north and south America bouncing a 120 lbs tire. i decided to make an upper and lower tire swing out mount which will bolt to the rear side body bar and welded to the rear bumper. this will give ample support to the tire swing out.
if you look at the pic you can see where the lower spindle will fit inside the support for the upper spindle. the upper spindle mount will be roughly where the solid rod is now. there is a cradle for the lower spindle welded inside the C channel main beam with a hole drilled through the top. from this the solid rod positioning peg holds the upper cradle in place perfectly in line with the lower so there will be no binding. the upper spindle cradle is made from 5" long 3.5" wide solid material that was turned on a lathe to fit the spindle perfectly. around the top of the spindle peg will be the weld. this will make for a very solid mount.
the owner asked that everything be overkill and extremely strong. i believe i will be accomplishing this goal.
clear as mud??
i need that bumper....
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