Builds Treebeard (3 Viewers)

[S3kshun8]

Another thing RE: Mileage - When I first picked up my 87 FJ60 I was getting ~10mpg. Then I saw somewhere that if your gas cap doesn't hiss when you go to fill it up, it's not sealing all the way/properly. Something to do with the way the fuel system works(I'm still learning). Mine was original and the seals had degraded, so I got a NOS OEM one - hisses when I open the cap to fill up now.

Biggest thing I noticed? I went from avg of 10mpg to 12.5. So. YMMV(ha) but that might be something to look into as well.

 

[MoaByte]

Another thing RE: Mileage - When I first picked up my 87 FJ60 I was getting ~10mpg. Then I saw somewhere that if your gas cap doesn't hiss when you go to fill it up, it's not sealing all the way/properly. Something to do with the way the fuel system works(I'm still learning). Mine was original and the seals had degraded, so I got a NOS OEM one - hisses when I open the cap to fill up now.

Biggest thing I noticed? I went from avg of 10mpg to 12.5. So. YMMV(ha) but that might be something to look into as well.

Haha, before desmog, I got 12-16 mpg and my tank was under vacuum and had hiss opening the gas cap. After desmog, Sniper, gm charcoal canister, my mpg dropped to 10.

I had a dream that the reason for the drop in mpg was because the vacuum restricted fuel delivery .
Anyway, it's still not quick, but she now moves with noticable pep.
The vent lines had clogs in the lines and the charcoal canister is for sale.
The take away is that the 2F is designed to be infallible in a 3rd world environment for 30 years on bad fuel, then mandated to meet US requirements for emissions standards as an after thought. Considering the surprise requirements, Toyota did a fairly good job but the 2F's design on improving the gm stove bolt 235 wasn't ready for emissions. Sniper is a little better, but struggles with the tractor motor intake. The original carb is something to behold. Is it possible that Toyota built in the hiss to meet mileage requirements??

 

[Berry]

Question for y'all. Currently working on replacing wheel bearings, knuckle seals, and all the wonderful things that goes with that undertaking.

The thrust washer(?) Appears to have a fairly deep groove worn into it on both sides from the wheel bearing. Unfortunately the rebuild kit I bought from CruiserTech does not come with a replacement.

Will this be problematic to reassemble with the same washer? I know this would be less than ideal, but I've got to have this thing back on the road by Monday!

Thanks!

 

[CruiserTrash]

Question for y'all. Currently working on replacing wheel bearings, knuckle seals, and all the wonderful things that goes with that undertaking.

The thrust washer(?) Appears to have a fairly deep groove worn into it on both sides from the wheel bearing. Unfortunately the rebuild kit I bought from CruiserTech does not come with a replacement.

Will this be problematic to reassemble with the same washer? I know this would be less than ideal, but I've got to have this thing back on the road by Monday!

Thanks!

View attachment 3386686

View attachment 3386689

Treebeard lives!!!

Check local dealership parts counters. Those aren’t so rare and there’s a chance you might find a couple.

 

[kirvesmies]

@Berry , in a pinch i'd think that if you were to lap that on say 100 grit sandpaper on top of a pane of glass it could be run till you got replacements. just something to lose the ridges on the edges of those grooves. the pane glass is for flatness. or, have you got a buddy who runs a machine shop that could mill them flat? just my 2 cents

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Or flip it over so the smooth side is against the wheel bearing .. wheel bearings must have been loose and spinning against the washer.

 

[kirvesmies]

i read his post as both sides of one washer. you'd still want to lap that ridge off would you not? or am i thinking incorrectly

Or flip it over so the smooth side is against the wheel bearing .. wheel bearings must have been loose and spinning against the washer.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

i read his post as both sides of one washer. you'd still want to lap that ridge off would you not? or am i thinking incorrectly

Yeah I'd do something with the messed up side and put the other side assuming it's flat. All this is all still in a pinch personally would be looking for a replacement.
Tommy

 

[kirvesmies]

Yeah I'd do something with the messed up side and put the other side assuming it's flat. All this is all still in a pinch personally would be looking for a replacement.
Tommy

yup, agreed

 

[Berry]

It’s been a busy few months! Treebeard has been dragging my butt around all summer on quite a few excellent adventures, as well as acting as my daily driver. For a 300,000-mile truck, it has been nothing but reliable. So naturally, my girlfriend and I decided we’re taking a 2,600-mile trip from Tacoma Washington to Boulder Colorado next week. What could possibly go wrong. If any of you have advice relating to road-tripping a 60, I’d love to hear it. I’ll attach our approximate route in case anyone has recommendations for campsites, restaurants, etc.

After buying Treebeard, I was rather apprehensive about taking on any meaningful maintenance. I drive this vehicle daily and need to have it operational every Monday morning. Torfab was kind enough to look at the vehicle and gave quite a detailed inspection. Having a ‘checklist’ to work towards has helped get my hands dirty. Torfab also chased down a compression issue, redid the desmog, ignition tune-up, intake, and exhaust gaskets. Thanks guys, you’re awesome.

A friend and I knocked out the dreaded knuckle rebuild/wheel bearing replacement over a long weekend. What a disgusting, sweat dripping, cursing championship that was. I’d highly recommend renting a bearing press from your local parts store and watching a few rebuild videos. The linked 80 series rebuild video below proved to be our secret ingredient.

I’ve been slowly delving into treating the active rust on the truck. Exposing, sanding, applying Ospho (awesome stuff), priming, and painting can only get me so far. I will likely have to take the truck to a professional to address the frame.

My girlfriend and I are knocking out a refresh of the front seats this weekend with Specter Off-Road seat cushions and covers. What a difference new cushions make.

Work still to complete (eventually)

• Frame rust treatment
• Front main seal
• Oil pump gasket
• Clutch slave rebuild
• Transmission input seal
• Transfer case rebuild
• Rear wheel bearings and differential seal
• Steering box rebuild
• Window weather stripping
• Rust treatment
• Coolant lines
• Oil cooler lines
• Tierods

Roadtrip Map

 

[Richfj60]

I know she’ll make it. tree beard has been a much loved truck and I am sure Nate is happy that you have continued to use her as much as he did! Only advice… know where the gas stations are. Know how far you get on a tank and stop early. I almost learned the hard way in Montana. Still not sure how we made it to a gas station!

 

[CruiserTrash]

I know she’ll make it. tree beard has been a much loved truck and I am sure Nate is happy that you have continued to use her as much as he did! Only advice… know where the gas stations are. Know how far you get on a tank and stop early. I almost learned the hard way in Montana. Still not sure how we made it to a gas station!

The trip odometer is very important in a 2F 60!

Best of luck @Berry

 

[Berry]

Our trip is going well so far, Treebeard has taken us across western Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and through Yellowstone without any notable issues. At 11-12mpg no less! EXCEPT...

Oh man does this 2F hate elevation. Crawling up hills at 35mph above 6,000 feet is quite uncomfortable. Mind you the truck has never been spry moving uphill, higher elevation has made a noticeable impact.

Does anyone have advice for how go improve our performance at higher elevation? Disassembling the carburator at a campsite is not the most appealing prospect, so changing jets is out of the question in my eyes.

We're swinging by the Land Cruiser museum in Salt Lake today! Quite excited to see some well preserved 60's.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Our trip is going well so far, Treebeard has taken us across western Washington, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and through Yellowstone without any notable issues. At 11-12mpg no less! EXCEPT...

Oh man does this 2F hate elevation. Crawling up hills at 35mph above 6,000 feet is quite uncomfortable. Mind you the truck has never been spry moving uphill, higher elevation has made a noticeable impact.

Does anyone have advice for how go improve our performance at higher elevation? Disassembling the carburator at a campsite is not the most appealing prospect, so changing jets is out of the question in my eyes.

We're swinging by the Land Cruiser museum in Salt Lake today! Quite excited to see some well preserved 60's.

View attachment 3427359

No advice, no solution. It's a 2F so stay in the right lane, let the big rigs whizz past, and enjoy the ride! I live in Denver and go to the mountains a lot - it's the same story with my 2F going up hills and big passes, 35-45mph with my foot to the floor in third gear. That's just how they are. It really does give you more time to enjoy the scenery though. You learn to embrace it.

You could make sure the HAC is advancing the timing, and maybe even goose the timing beyond that by another 2-5*. It won't make a huge difference but might prevent knock.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

No advice, no solution. It's a 2F so stay in the right lane, let the big rigs whizz past, and enjoy the ride! I live in Denver and go to the mountains a lot - it's the same story with my 2F going up hills and big passes, 35-45mph with my foot to the floor in third gear. That's just how they are. It really does give you more time to enjoy the scenery though. You learn to embrace it.

You could make sure the HAC is advancing the timing, and maybe even goose the timing beyond that by another 2-5*. It won't make a huge difference but might prevent knock.

The pass going from Denver up to summit County is a beast for our tractor engine's even my fuel injected 62 didn't wanna go right lane flashers on and everything passing me lol.

 

[cheeese]

it's not exactly what you're asking, but folks are having decent results with a Sniper and a blow-thru turbo— the original use of a turbo was for altitude compensation (in military aircraft, but still).

 

[fjc-man]

No advice, no solution. It's a 2F so stay in the right lane, let the big rigs whizz past, and enjoy the ride! I live in Denver and go to the mountains a lot - it's the same story with my 2F going up hills and big passes, 35-45mph with my foot to the floor in third gear. That's just how they are. It really does give you more time to enjoy the scenery though. You learn to embrace it.

You could make sure the HAC is advancing the timing, and maybe even goose the timing beyond that by another 2-5*. It won't make a huge difference but might prevent knock.

The HAC at 4900+ applies vacuum to the outer diaphragm for an additional 6 degrees advance provided it doesn’t leak.

 

[CruiserTrash]

The HAC at 4900+ applies vacuum to the outer diaphragm for an additional 6 degrees advance provided it doesn’t leak.

4 degrees from the HAC. I sometimes bump mine even a few degrees beyond that if I’m headed above tree line. That’s on a smogged engine. I feel like it doesn’t run much different from 5000-10000’, but the extra few degrees make it less of a dog 10k-13k’. I can’t really explain, but the motor feels “less boggy”.

Get a timing light, unplug the vac hose from the small diaphragm - make sure the Dot is right on the pointer. Connect the hose and make sure you lose the dot. It’ll be at the very edge of the window. Disconnect the hose again and give it a couple degrees by twisting the dizzy, maybe so the dot isn’t quite to the edge of the window. Then connect the hose again. Now you’ve added maybe 7-8* total between the HAC and some static advance, on top of the standard 7*. Now the total at altitude is 14-15 rather than 11.

 

[Berry]

Long time no update.

My Cruiser now has a shop! I've done very little since my last update here, but now the fun part starts.

The engine, trans and transfer case are coming out within the next few days.

The 2F has developed a habit of producing white, coolant smelling smoke while idling after cold starts. Compression test results are as follows

1- 140
2- 130
3- 140
4- 140
5- 155
6- 160

Planning on a fresh head gasket, lap the valves, and perhapse rings.

The transmission is likely going to a professional for a rebuild. The transfer case also needs to be rebuilt as it leaks EVERYWHERE. Hopefully I'll be able to tackle that job personally.

Additionally, rust abatement is a large priority with this job. The radiatior support has corrosion, the frame needs to be cleaned, painted, and sealed. The largest rust location is the rear trunk sill.

Luckily, I have a rust-free sill to replace it with (thanks Nate) and a buddy who works in auto body to advise.

A few questions,

- Is removing the accessory drive before the engine beneficial?
- Should the drivetrain be removed together or separate?
- Are there other maintenance tasks I should consider along the way?

Let me know what you think!

 

[garfieldthecat]

Long time no update.

My Cruiser now has a shop! I've done very little since my last update here, but now the fun part starts.

View attachment 3558708

The engine, trans and transfer case are coming out within the next few days.

The 2F has developed a habit of producing white, coolant smelling smoke while idling after cold starts. Compression test results are as follows

1- 140
2- 130
3- 140
4- 140
5- 155
6- 160

Planning on a fresh head gasket, lap the valves, and perhapse rings.

The transmission is likely going to a professional for a rebuild. The transfer case also needs to be rebuilt as it leaks EVERYWHERE. Hopefully I'll be able to tackle that job personally.

Additionally, rust abatement is a large priority with this job. The radiatior support has corrosion, the frame needs to be cleaned, painted, and sealed. The largest rust location is the rear trunk sill.

View attachment 3558709

Luckily, I have a rust-free sill to replace it with (thanks Nate) and a buddy who works in auto body to advise.

A few questions,

- Is removing the accessory drive before the engine beneficial?
- Should the drivetrain be removed together or separate?
- Are there other maintenance tasks I should consider along the way?

Let me know what you think!

My thoughts on the following:

- Is removing the accessory drive before the engine beneficial?
Removing the accessories makes it easier to get the engine out without the accessories hitting the radiator mount. the accessories are probably the widest part of the engine
- Should the drivetrain be removed together or separate?
I think separate is easier. Makes the hoist easier to move around without the transmission and transfer case bumping into the front axle or hitting the front valance. Its only four bolts to separate the transmission from the engine. It can also be hard to remove the front drive shaft with the engine in place. I did engine first, driveshafts next, transmission/transfercase last
- Are there other maintenance tasks I should consider along the way?
I have the engine and transfer case and driveshafts all out of my truck now. I am putting in new brake hoses (and master cylinder/booster), new clutch slave cylinder, new heater hoses and fuel hoses--basically as much new rubber as possible since its easy to access at this point. I'll probably do new brake wheel cylinders and shoes and pads before I start driving the truck again. If you want new carpet and seat covers, now is good time since its easier to remove the carpet to get the transmission and transfer case out. Also, check your climate control parts like heater core and ac evaporator. These trucks need a lot of work at their age, so whatever time, patience, and funds allow you to do, I would say go for it, then you wont have to worry about it for the rest of your life.