- Thread starter
- #401
My PCV valve was completely stopped up. I replaced it, added a gasket between the air cleaner and carb (maybe unrelated), and cleaned out my air cleaner. I’ll take a longer drive later today and keep an eye on it.
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fjc-man
SILVER Star
Check the pipe the hose from PCV attaches to on the intake manifold, it could be clogged solid with carbon deposits.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Take some longer drives... 10+ Miles and see how it is.
throw some seafoam into an empty tank too and go for a really long drive, i't'll help to burn off any potential condensation in your fuel system and help clean it out too.
- Thread starter
- #405
Good call. I checked it and it was clean.
Also good ideas! I put a can of seafoam in my almost-empty tank and took a 20 mile drive. I could see a bit of milkshake under the valve cover afterwards but the cap was clean and the truck drove like a champ so the signs are good.
- Thread starter
- #406
The truck has done great over the last 24 hours. Much less smoke, quicker starts, and at least 50 more horsepower. 
Check your PCV valves!
Check your PCV valves!
The truck has done great over the last 24 hours. Much less smoke, quicker starts, and at least 50 more horsepower.
Check your PCV valves!
Easy Fixes are the best!
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
My hardline like said above was so clogged too. I tried to use a solvent and heat to clear it out but gave up. Ended up plumbing a hose up and over instead.The truck has done great over the last 24 hours. Much less smoke, quicker starts, and at least 50 more horsepower.
Check your PCV valves!
- Thread starter
- #409
Before I shell out to repair the rust in the back of the truck I need to stop the leaks. Somehow water is dripping onto the rear floor through these vents, would this point to bad rain gutter seals? The sealant looks ok to me but I’m curious what y’all think.
It might be coming in through the exterior plastic vents on the other side of those interior vents. Take them off. There is supposed to be a rubber flapper that blocks water ingress, but sometimes they die.
Is it original caulking?
- Thread starter
- #413
As far as I know! It’s been leaking in this spot for a long time, judging by the rust in that part of the truck.
- Thread starter
- #414
- Thread starter
- #415
Looks like I’m leaking a lot of gas out of the carb. This MIGHT be new since I swapped the charcoal can lines but that would seem strange to me. Does this warrant a full carb rebuild? Note these photos are taken after trying to start the truck and it’s definitely gas.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Is there a repair for worn / leaky throttle shafts? Replace the throttle plate assembly?
- Thread starter
- #417
Thank you for giving me the right term for this part of the carb, I went through my FSM multiple times and couldn't find it. Some searching pointed me in @NeverGiveUpYota's direction and she has a few very helpful posts about having the throttle body serviced.
- Thread starter
- #418
I wasn't able to reproduce that same gas leak today, it's possible that I just flooded the carb in that case. I'll keep an eye on it but a throttle body rebuild is probably in my future.
Today I'm going to flush my heater core. I get almost no heat through the front and have been relying on the rear heater to keep the entire truck toasty. I picked up a few parts from HD and plan to back flush with water, let some CLR sit in the core for 30 minutes to an hour (any opinions on timing?), back flush and forward flush with water, blow it out with a shop vac, and refill with coolant.
Here are the fittings I bought to make this easier, along with 10' of clear vinyl 5/8" ID tubing.
Today I'm going to flush my heater core. I get almost no heat through the front and have been relying on the rear heater to keep the entire truck toasty. I picked up a few parts from HD and plan to back flush with water, let some CLR sit in the core for 30 minutes to an hour (any opinions on timing?), back flush and forward flush with water, blow it out with a shop vac, and refill with coolant.
Here are the fittings I bought to make this easier, along with 10' of clear vinyl 5/8" ID tubing.
I brought an Audi A4 heater core back to life with CLR. First go I let it sit for 30 or so minutes, got some additional flow but still not good. Did it again and let it sit for 2 hours IIRC and then flush the heck out of it with hot water and that did the trick. This car had no heat at all so maybe yours won't take that long, but don't be afraid to add some time to it if necessary.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
The Audi heater core was most likely aluminum with o-ring seals.
