tranny tech 403-thats 4 on the tree! (1 Viewer)

[Skreddy]

This week’s plan is to get the temp shift rod(s) made to ensure shifting works easily. Then get t-case mounted (sans rear bearing so it should just slide on) so I can measure for drivelines.
Still looking for a tunnel to modify: does anyone know is the newer tunnel the same basic shape, just different at the rear for the flat floor? A buddy has one I can get from a 77 that’s a little rusty but not too bad. Otherwise I may just end up making a tunnel from scratch.
So there we are for now. Trying to not modify any of my parts until we know it’s going to work (though I’m pretty confident it will).

 

[firemanj92]

I had some time before work tonight so I was able to get the seat, tank and tunnel pulled and the 4 speed bolted in with no t-case yet. Just checking fit, clearances and linkages for now. This will all be coming back out to clean and paint the bell and install the clutch and t-case.
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So the meat and potatoes. The overall height of the whole assembly with 4 speed is about 2-3/8” taller than the 3 speed. The tunnel has to come up 2” at minimum. 2” leaves 1/2” or so of clearance between tunnel and shifter assembly which seems sufficient.
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The linkage rod to the shift arm out of the top (gate selector arm) looks like it will be fine with no modifications. The linkage rod from column to gear selector pivot (hard to see in pic but it’s the vertical rod in front of firewall) will need a slight dogleg to clear the gate linkage rod. The linkage rod that attaches to the arm for gear selection on trans needs the stud turned around 180* and I think it will work. Going to make some temp rods to see before modifying mine.
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Those shifter linkage ends are screwed on and locked in place with a jam nut. So turning it 180 is easily reversible. Only 1 linkage end is left hand thread in all the transfer/trans linkages-ask me how I know-I think it's the longest linkage attached at the column. (shifter linkage ends rh 33740-35011/ lh 33750-35011)

 

[65swb45]

Remind me, is the rod with the clearance issue attached to the ‘crescent’ shaped pivot on the column? I vaguely remember something.

 

[DomSmith]

You can look at my 45 thread. I cover a bit of tunnel differences. I’ll try to find it and post a link.

 

[Skreddy]

Those ball ends are screwed on and locked in place with a lock nut. So turning it 180 is easily reversible. Only one ball joint is left hand thread in all the linkages-ask me how I know-I think it's the longest linkage attached at the column. (shifter linkage ends rh 33740-35011/ lh 33750-35011)

That one rod is the only one that’s a fixed length with fixed ends (at least on my 1970).

 

[65swb45]

This week’s plan is to get the temp shift rod(s) made to ensure shifting works easily. Then get t-case mounted (sans rear bearing so it should just slide on) so I can measure for drivelines.
Still looking for a tunnel to modify: does anyone know is the newer tunnel the same basic shape, just different at the rear for the flat floor? A buddy has one I can get from a 77 that’s a little rusty but not too bad. Otherwise I may just end up making a tunnel from scratch.
So there we are for now. Trying to not modify any of my parts until we know it’s going to work (though I’m pretty confident it will).

John @Living in the Past has had some experience fitting the 4speed tunnel to the older tub. I am sure he will be happy to chime in on this.

 

[Skreddy]

Remind me, is the rod with the clearance issue attached to the ‘crescent’ shaped pivot on the column? I vaguely remember something.

I believe that’s the one. I’ll have to go back out and look tomorrow. Working nights this week and was rushing to get it fit for an update before heading to another lovely 12 hour overnight shift.

 

[red66toy]

You rock @Skreddy . Thanks for helping to take this project to the finish…. Come hell or high water.

 

[Living in the Past]

John @Living in the Past has had some experience fitting the 4speed tunnel to the older tub. I am sure he will be happy to chime in on this.

Really wasn't that big a deal. Few photos of a 78 and a 65

Found them in the 45 classified section. Posted over fourteen years ago. These compared the 65-72 and 73-78.
I trimmed the back and filled the gap with heavy weatherstripping. Left frontand left side matched up as remember (was twenty-eight years old). Right side worked the cover to match the tub floor. This
was done in 1994.

 

[Skreddy]

Thanks @Living in the Past ! I’m going to give this newer one a try. Can’t bring myself to cut up my original as it’s in such good shape.

 

[Skreddy]

Project “take a perfectly running cruiser, add a cool adapter and spend a bunch of money to make it drive marginally better” is well underway. Just kidding. I’m really excited to drive this thing and can’t wait for the better drivability of the 4 speed.

Today was linkage day. I had a Harley shift lever I wasn’t using and thought it looked similar enough. Looks like the one in the pic (was actually the heel shifter from this bike)

Cut the end, drill out the splines and add a new hole for the shift rod and Boom! New shift arm. I found doing this didn’t require any mod to the linkage rod. This is just a temp solution as I’ll modify the stock arm for final assembly.

Hooked up the linkages and was surprised/pleased to find none needed modified. I was able to just bolt the one linkage off the big dogleg from the other side and that cleared the interference issues. The long rod that controls the top/horizontal arm that selects which gate (R, 1-2, 3-4) needs to be adjusted just right. A couple turns too tight and you can’t get 3-4. A couple turns too loose and you can’t get R. I think beveling the shift pawl will help this. Also, I’m sure there’s some stacking slop in there so new/good shape components would likely make this not so finicky. In the end, I was able to get it adjusted for smooth shifts between all three gears.

Next, pull the trans back out, bolt on the 3 speed t-case and reinstall to measure for drivelines. Doesn’t look like I’ll need to mod the crossmember but dang that’s a tight fit! I plan on putting 1/4” or so spacers under the front engine mounts to lift the front and that should help a little.

 

[Skreddy]

Here is the video shifting via the column shifter.

 

[DomSmith]

Way to think outside the box! Love it. Thx for sharing the video.

I told Chase when I see a video posted of you driving down the road shifting a 4 speed on the column it may become my favorite video of all time!

Thank you for taking the plunge on this!

 

[EWheeler]

Bitchin.

 

[Skreddy]

Drivelines are out being modified and should be done next week. Picking up my sacrificial tunnel tomorrow. I’ll finish up the t-case rebuild and modify that shift arm this week and get the bellhousing cleaned and back in with flywheel, clutch, etc. Waiting on the pto spacer and a trans spacer that’s coming from Mark with parts for the Olive 79 I’m working on. With any luck this may be driving in the next 2 weeks!?

 

[DomSmith]

Not that you’re interested in doing extra work of putting fuel tank and seats in without a tranny hump and then adding it later (especially after doing all this leg work). But might be nice to see all the linkage stuff working without the hump on? I know a lot to ask….

You’re making rapid progress on this.

Thank you for being the main tester. Appreciated by myself and many others!

 

[Skreddy]

Not that you’re interested in doing extra work of putting fuel tank and seats in without a tranny hump and then adding it later (especially after doing all this leg work). But might be nice to see all the linkage stuff working without the hump on? I know a lot to ask….

You’re making rapid progress on this.

Thank you for being the main tester. Appreciated by myself and many others!

That is actually my plan; run it with no tunnel for a bit to see it work and ensure no issues. If something did bind when warm or something, it’ll be a lot easier to just reach down and adjust than climb underneath or something. May have to pull the top off first because I’m sure that big hole is going to let lots of heat in!

 

[65swb45]

Drivelines are out being modified and should be done next week. Picking up my sacrificial tunnel tomorrow. I’ll finish up the t-case rebuild and modify that shift arm this week and get the bellhousing cleaned and back in with flywheel, clutch, etc. Waiting on the pto spacer and a trans spacer that’s coming from Mark with parts for the Olive 79 I’m working on. With any luck this may be driving in the next 2 weeks!?

Crating guy is scheduled for tomorrow; you can call me later in the day to confirm and tentatively schedule pick up for Tuesday afternoon. I will be out most of the day Wednesday Ben.

 

[Skreddy]

I picked up the Swiss cruiser tunnel today. It came from a really rough parts rig a buddy had but I can work with it.

The flange is slightly different than the one on the 70 anyhow so most of the rusty area I’ll just scrap. The tunnel is already about 1.5” taller than the 3 speed tunnel where it needs it. I’ll extend it even taller to ensure clearance.

The fit isn’t really that bad, although it’s likely because of all the missing flange. Looks like even with raising it, should still clear the heater (good excuse to finally do AC….)
I’m not in a huge rush to make the tunnel correct so will likely be after some some shakedown miles before I really get on it.

 

[DomSmith]

Swiss cheese tunnel is not a bad way to start. More work but good way to salvage a little original sheet metal.