Builds Trail Tailor- Custom Armor Build plus a few things

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I use a master lock on my hitch (like this Amazon.com: Master Lock 2866DATSC Swivel Head Receiver Lock, Chrome: Automotive) so that someone can't pop the $200 WD hitch off, and a separate long shackle master lock on the trailer coupler. The latter helps ensures the tongue doesn't pop loose when driving, and I lock it when I'm detached so someone can't steal my trailer. It's not like it's not insured, but I'd rather not have to replace my stuff too.

If I had a yeti and gas cans on the back of my truck I'd at least use a bicycle cable lock with it. When I eventually get a rear bumper I'll probably poll the group about how to secure the spare since occasionally there's a rash of spare tire theft in the city. Like Markuson I realize I won't stop a determined thief but I'm really just looking to make others more attractive targets than me.

I used a very thick bike cable to secure my spare on my old Slee swingout. It barely shows if you simply run it from the back...out and back in one section on the spare and secure behind. Keeps the look clean too. On my cans, I'll do the same thing just to keep them from walking away. Same with my mountain bike if it's on a hitch rack. Couple loops through each wheel and frame triangle and I'm free to hit the local breakfast shops on my way through sketchy towns.
 
If I had a yeti and gas cans on the back of my truck I'd at least use a bicycle cable lock with it. When I eventually get a rear bumper I'll probably poll the group about how to secure the spare since occasionally there's a rash of spare tire theft in the city. Like Markuson I realize I won't stop a determined thief but I'm really just looking to make others more attractive targets than me.

Bicycles never get stolen :)

Depending on the spoke design you can loop through the spokes of the wheel and "secure" it to the bumper. Along with some lug locks and the license plate holder though the center it'll slow a thief a few mins I suppose.

Edit: Mark beat me to it.
 
drizzle fake blood on it before you walk away - works ever time
 
Tool/Storage box and light pole is mocked up.

J


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Looks nice. For me, The hitch cutout will be tight. My rear bumper is cut away totaly exposing the full hitch and its still tight when putting in my lockable hitch pin. Plus you may want access to the holes you hook the chains to when pulling a trailer. The way its shown in the pics those are covered up. It could be looking at it wrong. Below is mine as an example. Not knocking just sharing. Nice work!

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Looks nice. For me, The hitch cutout will be tight. My rear bumper is cut away totaly exposing the full hitch and its still tight when putting in my lockable hitch pin. Plus you may want access to the holes you hook the chains to when pulling a trailer. The way its shown in the pics those are covered up. It could be looking at it wrong. Below is mine as an example. Not knocking just sharing. Nice work!

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Less than 10 seconds to install :meh:

J

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Got to test fit the new tow mounts.

3/4" A572 Grade 70. Pricing will be $85.00 a pair for red powder coat or 70.00 a pair bare metal. Prices include shipping.

Bare metal - available now
Red Powder coat- available 4/20/17

J


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I like the idea of a telescoping light a lot.
Yea, the old Kaymar design was such a good idea. Glad someone made basically a US version, they are very handy where no trees are around or you don't have an awning to hang a light.
 
Yup, plus I don't like lights on the roof rack, for a few reasons.

I've always thought it was sorta frustrating having camp lights on the rack rear, because it means every time your hatch is open, you block the light. If it's attached to the swingout, it would stay clear no matter what.

What telescoping mount is that?
 
I've always thought it was sorta frustrating having camp lights on the rack rear, because it means every time your hatch is open, you block the light. If it's attached to the swingout, it would stay clear no matter what.

What telescoping mount is that?

That and any 270* awning will be be blocked, they're usually not aim-able so you can't shine light exactly where you want, wire routing sucks, ect.. Just personal preference. I'm sure there are benefits.

J will have to answer which mount it is. The light is a Rigid D-SS flood I bought (along with flush mount D-series spotties for the front bumper) from the Mud sponsor MRT. Got a great deal from them and I'm a Rigid fan.
D-SS | Flood Surface White Black | Rigid Industries
 

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