tractionbar build by camcruise .... boring

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and so as they cooled i tried to find some spray paint, wanted all black but only found 1/8 of a can in black and i had some red so i thought, why not, itll be trashed and covered in mud most the time anyway

tb31.jpg
 
then i painted the axle peices and it is all drying as we speak and will be assembled tomorrow after i weld in the crossmember

tb32.jpg
 
i will get back later after it is all dried and hopefully fully assembled, golf tomorrow so i dont know how much ill get done.
 
you alway do such damn fine work My brother needs a trac bar so Im glad that you posted this up nothing better than someone else better skilled leading the way
 
and so as they cooled i tried to find some spray paint, wanted all black but only found 1/8 of a can in black and i had some red so i thought, why not, itll be trashed and covered in mud most the time anyway

tb31.jpg


wow, those are some colors! Are you david lee roths cousin?

j/k, looks great
 
So it can move with the travel of the axle on the leafs.But it won't let the axle roll.;)
 
Why the shakle type mount up front?

I realize it is designed that way, but why? Wouldn't it still allow your axle too wrap the full motion of the shackle movement?

It would just pull the shackle down and stop axle wrap. i have mine like this and works great.
 
Why the shakle type mount up front?

I realize it is designed that way, but why? Wouldn't it still allow your axle too wrap the full motion of the shackle movement?

I may be wrong but I think the triangle wins. That is, the triangle stops the twisting. Most of the stress is at where the top bar meets the bottom bar. I think some run the top bar all the way to the joint, but with that thick of tubing, he could of had them meet in the center and still be fine. The baby shackle keeps it from limiting flex, I am guessing.

How much dose that thing weigh?

Looks good and will definitely do the trick.


edit: damn, took to long typing..........
 
It would just pull the shackle down and stop axle wrap. i have mine like this and works great.
Howdy! Yea, this is a great working setup with the shackle. Ya did good on choosing some super tube for the main sections. Mine is very similar, and since I have double LockRights, I run a lot of 2wd low range. I can hammer the throttle and the pinion does not climb up at all. Two years ago I did a nasty hill climb, but I forgot to slip it back into 4 low. I hardly noticed the difference! Much better traction and control with a good anti-wrap bar. Certainly worth the time/work/money. You're gonna luv it! Good job. John
 
Howdy! Yea, this is a great working setup with the shackle. Ya did good on choosing some super tube for the main sections. Mine is very similar, and since I have double LockRights, I run a lot of 2wd low range. I can hammer the throttle and the pinion does not climb up at all. Two years ago I did a nasty hill climb, but I forgot to slip it back into 4 low. I hardly noticed the difference! Much better traction and control with a good anti-wrap bar. Certainly worth the time/work/money. You're gonna luv it! Good job. John

thanks, im hoping for some good results. does your shakle hang straight down or is it a little tilted like mine? just wondering if i should move the crossmember back a tad or leave it.

any ideas. probably doesnt make a diff. i dont know
 
Love the Horse shoe!!! Nice cowboy touch... BTW, what size welder you running?

Cheers!
 
thanks, im hoping for some good results. does your shakle hang straight down or is it a little tilted like mine? just wondering if i should move the crossmember back a tad or leave it.

any ideas. probably doesnt make a diff. i dont know

I tried to make mine almost vertical but ended up with some tilt anyway. My guess is you will be fine, but if you can move the crossmember it would not hurt to get it as vertical as possible. I see I am not the only one who uses a vise on the garage floor. :hillbilly::wrench:
 
thanks, im hoping for some good results. does your shakle hang straight down or is it a little tilted like mine? just wondering if i should move the crossmember back a tad or leave it.

any ideas. probably doesnt make a diff. i dont know
Howdy! I don't know how much upward force the arm can create in a worst case senario, but I have my shackle running pretty close to striaght up and down. I also put my top shackle mount centered under my cross member so it could not create any twisting action on the member. I don't know if yours might do that with the short stub you have going out sideways. Mine is a little longer than yours since I have more room down there on a Piggy, but I tried to leave enough room behind the transfer case to add a 5 speed and/or a toy box when I hit the Lotto. In 2000 I broke my rear pinion between the inner and outer bearings, due to axle wrap/stupidity. I think our design is the best overall to allow maximum flex and wrap-control. Most of the failures I have seen have been due to using no shackle on the front of the arm, or using thin walled tubing for the arms. I have also seen one fail at the welds on the front of the arms. The builder just didn't realize that the stress there is pretty crazy. The lower arm is pushing forward, and the upper arm is pulling back even more, as it is farther off the centerlineof the axle. With the mondo tubing you have, you can really crank up the heat and get some great penetration. John
 
Would 2 inch tube, 1/4 inch thick be good enough for the arms on this type of traction bar?
 
CC-
I would recommend that you change the title of the thread, I didn't find it boring in the least.
I totally missed the horseshoe, I had to go back to find it.
I don't have any need for a tracbar but I really liked seeing the fabrication.
Nice work.
W-
 
Would 2 inch tube, 1/4 inch thick be good enough for the arms on this type of traction bar?

I think 2" would be too large and a PITA to make a traction bar from. I made mine from 1.5" 1/4 wall tube and it has held up great.
 

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