TOYOTA, more than ever before... (1 Viewer)

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see that went like clock-work .. :)



- soon here we are and there we go .........





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see that went like clock-work .. :)



- soon here we are and there we go .........





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I defiantly need a thermostat housing kit and water pump kit from you. I’ll be ordering in a few weeks. I’m sure you’ve got plenty of other candy I need.
 
I defiantly need a thermostat housing kit and water pump kit from you. I’ll be ordering in a few weeks. I’m sure you’ve got plenty of other candy I need.


you will be receiving aa NEW Complete my hand crafted reproduction
ENGINE WIRE No. 4 Sub. Assy. KIT from me for Holiday Tree Day Reasons ....... :santa:


i told you now , so you don't scoop one up some where else by mistake ......... :popcorn: 🍻








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So far I don’t see any signs of damage to the cylinders. Lots of carbon and probably some detonation happening in 1-3-4-6. Lots of blow by in al cylinders.

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This is not good. So far this is the only thing I’ve found that’s a major problem. I knew someone had repaired it with jb weld long ago. When I pulled the harmonic balancer off the jb weld crumbled in my hand and the key fell out. Not sure what I’m gonna do about this one.
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I’ll finish tearing things down this week and hopefully get some measuring tools so I can really check things out. It doesn’t don’t look so bad right now.

The radiator is leaking in about 3 places but I think they’re older leaks. I’m going to replace the thermostat housing and water pump. I may go dig the heater core out of the dash and go through that so that I have 100% fresh cooling system. Is anybody making reproduction coolant system hoses for the 60?

Who is selling the best rebuild kits? I know lifters have been a problem lately. Any ideas on who’s got some decent quality parts?
 
@cps432 I replaced 85% of the hoses in my cooling system a few weeks ago. was able to get mostly new OEM, and there’s a thread that details Gates replacement part numbers for the rest. I’ll see if I can tag you in that later today. What you need is out there for sure.
 
Curious....did you get the cruiser in a warm garage and check it out for noises/leaks/compression before tearing it down? Obviously a proper rebuild will run better than a 30 year old engine, but was it 100% necessary at this point?

Or would a new water pump, radiator, some gaskets, and proper oil and coolant and block heater been all that you needed this winter?
 
Man… some serious work in short order. Great respect for your organizational skills. I definitely need to improve in that category.
Thank you! Working for a company that is looking to Toyota for organizing tasks and work stations has helped me a ton. Besides I got tired of digging through ammo cans looking for screwdrivers.
@cps432 I replaced 85% of the hoses in my cooling system a few weeks ago. was able to get mostly new OEM, and there’s a thread that details Gates replacement part numbers for the rest. I’ll see if I can tag you in that later today. What you need is out there for sure.
That would be awesome! I replaced all of mine years ago but I’d like to use OEM parts if possible.
Curious....did you get the cruiser in a warm garage and check it out for noises/leaks/compression before tearing it down? Obviously a proper rebuild will run better than a 30 year old engine, but was it 100% necessary at this point?

Or would a new water pump, radiator, some gaskets, and proper oil and coolant and block heater been all that you needed this winter?
It was too cold in the driveway to get it thawed out. I thawed out for a few hours one day and I got it drained. After that I had about two or three days where I could pull it and get inside before the weather gets dangerously gnarly. If I had warmer weather I would have done a lot more looking about and testing. I’ve got 290,000 on the odometer and the blow by was bad enough for long enough that I didn’t want to just throw an other bandaid on it. Once I pulled the harmonic balancer off and saw how bad the crank snout had gotten I knew I made the right choice. One more mile and it would have been absolute toast.
 
Now I am sure I am not exaggerating when I say one more mile and it would be toast. The harmonic balancer was wobbling on the crank snout enough that it scrapped the inside of the timing gear cover.

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The woodruff key seems to have turned sideways in between the crank snout and harmonic balancer. Something else funky is going on with the nut. It’s torn up and so is the mating surface of the harmonic balancer. I’m glad I stopped driving when I did. The cold weather must have caused that jb weld or epoxy fix to break. I have no idea how long that repair held, but it’s time to fix it once and for all. I might need a new crank shaft.

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At what point does an engine become not worth rebuilding? Not saying that your engine falls into that category (yet), but what if, upon further tear down it’s carnage after carnage.. new crankshaft, new pistons, new… everything except the block. At some point it’s cheaper to replace it than try to repair it.

I only bring this debbie downer topic up to bring to light the possibility.
Maybe it might be best to tear the whole thing apart first to assess damage and wear of everything before spending a nickel replacing parts here & there bit by bit.
A full tear down assessment would give you the lay of the land to chart the best course of future action.
 
At what point does an engine become not worth rebuilding? Not saying that your engine falls into that category (yet), but what if, upon further tear down it’s carnage after carnage.. new crankshaft, new pistons, new… everything except the block. At some point it’s cheaper to replace it than try to repair it.

I only bring this debbie downer topic up to bring to light the possibility.
Maybe it might be best to tear the whole thing apart first to assess damage and wear of everything before spending a nickel replacing parts here & there bit by bit.
A full tear down assessment would give you the lay of the land to chart the best course of future action.
That’s defiantly the plan at this point. There was only one way to know how bad the damage was and that was to open things up and check. I either pay someone else and wait for bad news and a steep bill or I do it myself and have a less steep bill. I certainly am looking at new engine options if this thing turns out to be toast.
 
A good machine shop can weld that crank and recut the key way.
That’s what I’m thinking. I still need to take apart the rest of the block, but I got the cam out tonight and it looks worn. Typical of 290k miles. There’s some pitting on the lobes and lifters. It looks like some of the cam bearings are a little worn out. Again, nothing looks like it’s had trauma.

I can still see factory cross hatching all through the cylinder walls. The lash in the timing gear is all spot on. The head is really dirty but should clean up fine. I don’t see any reason why this engine is done. As long as the crank isn’t out of balance beyond hope or something else is going on, it seems like it’s just a really tired engine that needs new bearings and whatnot.
 
I would check the harmonic balancer I.D. the marks on the nut indicates it may have spun on the crank. I`ve heard rock Auto sells a good replacement for a good price.
 
I would check the harmonic balancer I.D. the marks on the nut indicates it may have spun on the crank. I`ve heard rock Auto sells a good replacement for a good price.
This is a rock auto HB. Replaced 4-5 years ago when I first discovered this issue. I don’t think the pulley spun on the shaft. I think the nut may have walked itself back or maybe I didn’t get it fully torqued last time I had it apart and it allowed some vibrations which allowed the “fix” to fail. I believe the key just turned at about a 45degree angle and allowed the pulley to wobble. I don’t think the nut or pulley are toast. I think the shaft may be salvageable so long as the journals are in good shape.

Now that I think about it my power steering belt was a little loose and it’s probably because the HB was slightly cocked off center on the crank shaft. Glad this wasn’t worse.
 
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This is a rock auto HB. Replaced 4-5 years ago when I first discovered this issue. I don’t think the pulley spun on the shaft. I think the nut may have walked itself back or maybe I didn’t get it fully torqued last time I had it apart and it allowed some vibrations which allowed the “fix” to fail. I believe the key just turned at about a 45degree angle and allowed the pulley to wobble. I don’t think the nut or pulley are toast. I think the shaft may be salvageable so long as the journals are in good shape.

Now that I think about it my power steering belt was a little loose and it’s probably because the HB was slightly cocked off center on the crank shaft. Glad this wasn’t worse.


stop 🛑 .........


- please PM me and make a brief time for a shop hot line tech-time live call .........


- this paticulal WIPED crankshaft keyway issue and topic was a major problem for certain TOYOTA engine family's back in my dealership days as both shop foeman and team leader in the service dept. i have remodied more of these exactr issues then i can count successfully ,


HOWEVER ,

you ONLY get 1 chance to get it 100% spot on accurate , or your F#CKED ! \


- i indeed learned quick after my first several failed attempts , until somebody i referred to as TRD-MOSES skooled me correctly , i was in my early 20's he had lot's of grey hair and a big bushy beard , so hence my nickname for beloved John , whom has long since passed away , he was a lifetime Toyota Master technician , and started is the early 1970's at Brown's TOYOTA CITY in Glen Burnie Maryland , my 2nd summer internship Rodeo ........


- this is a outside the BOX HYBRID approach , but WILL if prescribed steps by Steps are followed to the T , save your 2F from certain DOOM ........




i am here to help you on this topic in any way i can ...

kindly matt







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