see that went like clock-work ..
- soon here we are and there we go .........
- soon here we are and there we go .........
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I defiantly need a thermostat housing kit and water pump kit from you. I’ll be ordering in a few weeks. I’m sure you’ve got plenty of other candy I need.see that went like clock-work ..
- soon here we are and there we go .........
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I defiantly need a thermostat housing kit and water pump kit from you. I’ll be ordering in a few weeks. I’m sure you’ve got plenty of other candy I need.
Thank you! Working for a company that is looking to Toyota for organizing tasks and work stations has helped me a ton. Besides I got tired of digging through ammo cans looking for screwdrivers.Man… some serious work in short order. Great respect for your organizational skills. I definitely need to improve in that category.
That would be awesome! I replaced all of mine years ago but I’d like to use OEM parts if possible.@cps432 I replaced 85% of the hoses in my cooling system a few weeks ago. was able to get mostly new OEM, and there’s a thread that details Gates replacement part numbers for the rest. I’ll see if I can tag you in that later today. What you need is out there for sure.
It was too cold in the driveway to get it thawed out. I thawed out for a few hours one day and I got it drained. After that I had about two or three days where I could pull it and get inside before the weather gets dangerously gnarly. If I had warmer weather I would have done a lot more looking about and testing. I’ve got 290,000 on the odometer and the blow by was bad enough for long enough that I didn’t want to just throw an other bandaid on it. Once I pulled the harmonic balancer off and saw how bad the crank snout had gotten I knew I made the right choice. One more mile and it would have been absolute toast.Curious....did you get the cruiser in a warm garage and check it out for noises/leaks/compression before tearing it down? Obviously a proper rebuild will run better than a 30 year old engine, but was it 100% necessary at this point?
Or would a new water pump, radiator, some gaskets, and proper oil and coolant and block heater been all that you needed this winter?
That’s defiantly the plan at this point. There was only one way to know how bad the damage was and that was to open things up and check. I either pay someone else and wait for bad news and a steep bill or I do it myself and have a less steep bill. I certainly am looking at new engine options if this thing turns out to be toast.At what point does an engine become not worth rebuilding? Not saying that your engine falls into that category (yet), but what if, upon further tear down it’s carnage after carnage.. new crankshaft, new pistons, new… everything except the block. At some point it’s cheaper to replace it than try to repair it.
I only bring this debbie downer topic up to bring to light the possibility.
Maybe it might be best to tear the whole thing apart first to assess damage and wear of everything before spending a nickel replacing parts here & there bit by bit.
A full tear down assessment would give you the lay of the land to chart the best course of future action.
That’s what I’m thinking. I still need to take apart the rest of the block, but I got the cam out tonight and it looks worn. Typical of 290k miles. There’s some pitting on the lobes and lifters. It looks like some of the cam bearings are a little worn out. Again, nothing looks like it’s had trauma.A good machine shop can weld that crank and recut the key way.
This is a rock auto HB. Replaced 4-5 years ago when I first discovered this issue. I don’t think the pulley spun on the shaft. I think the nut may have walked itself back or maybe I didn’t get it fully torqued last time I had it apart and it allowed some vibrations which allowed the “fix” to fail. I believe the key just turned at about a 45degree angle and allowed the pulley to wobble. I don’t think the nut or pulley are toast. I think the shaft may be salvageable so long as the journals are in good shape.I would check the harmonic balancer I.D. the marks on the nut indicates it may have spun on the crank. I`ve heard rock Auto sells a good replacement for a good price.
This is a rock auto HB. Replaced 4-5 years ago when I first discovered this issue. I don’t think the pulley spun on the shaft. I think the nut may have walked itself back or maybe I didn’t get it fully torqued last time I had it apart and it allowed some vibrations which allowed the “fix” to fail. I believe the key just turned at about a 45degree angle and allowed the pulley to wobble. I don’t think the nut or pulley are toast. I think the shaft may be salvageable so long as the journals are in good shape.
Now that I think about it my power steering belt was a little loose and it’s probably because the HB was slightly cocked off center on the crank shaft. Glad this wasn’t worse.