TOYOTA, more than ever before...

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More than ever before... she needs some lovin'

-The Band Wagon build thread-

My name is Chris. I bought my truck February 2016. It's been my DD ever since. Sold my 05 Mustang and never looked back!
When I got her she wasn't passing emissions and the rear diff was worn out, so I talked the guy down significantly. Two weeks of solid work and some help from the forum and she passed emissions. Then I had Robbie over at Adventure Off Road swap the chunk for a front end he had laying around with about 10,000 original miles in it. Since then I've rebuilt the knuckles, changed the clutch and associated parts, and gathered some more rust. Other than that I haven't done anything.

Last October I intended on changing the leaf spring bushings and replacing the rear leafs just to tide myself over until I can get a full kit installed. I knew the rear passenger side leaf hanger had taken a hit and was bent, but I didn't know how bad it was until I tried pulling things apart. The leaf spring had rubbed the inner part of the hanger more than half way through the steel. So what did I do? I said f*** it! It's a Toyota and I'll survive.

Well, she carried me through the winter and I started getting ready to pass emissions. What a nightmare. Failed 4 times with little improvement and what's worse? After the guys at the Boulder emissions gulags drove her like a Corvette on the dyno I noticed a wobble in the crank pulley.
After reading horror stories related to crank pulley failures I decided to do the right thing and park her.

Time to get dirty....

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Here are some pictures of things I intend to get after this summer. First is the leaf spring hanger. I'll call Brandon who owns Classic Cruisers in Salida CO and try to source a used hanger (he owes me one... I sold him my first 84 for $700 because it was bleeding to death in my drive way and was in the middle of a big break up with my fiancé and a major move). Then I'll have to have it welded on. While that's happening I'll have to remove brake lines and fuel lines so the welder doesnt catch the truck on fire. They need replacing anyhow.
Bushings all around will be part of that job. If I can source some decent used rear springs I'll swap out my flat ones. The PO had a 900,000 pound wroght iron roof rack living up there and it crushed the rear end.

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After that I'll jump into the crank pulley and leaky engine gaskets. Oil pan, side cover, timing cover gasket and anything else I find once I pull the mess out... and it is a mess. Who knows what that will lead to. Hopefully I'm catching things preemptively and nothing has fubar'd itself.
While I'm in there... ha...
I'll pull the smog pump and clean it or replace it. It may be the reason I'm failing emissions. There's rust forming on the frame and front valance as well, so that'll be dealt with as well.

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NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Laughing s*** looks good to me. Hanger is broken where? Boy you’d die if you saw the driver rear on my truck. Far worse. But my old truck, now that was a sight... holes larger than a couple half dollars side to side in the frame right where the hanger attached. I never wheeled it but this one, I can see regardless of some rust under there, it’s way more stout. Not saying you shouldn’t park it but, I don’t see the bad you speak of.
 
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Once all that is done I can deal with the leaky front diff. I think I gotta just ballz up and change the seal without a full rebuild... cuz who's got cash for that when everything else is broke too?!

The transfer is leaking from the front axle flange and the idler shaft. It also makes a wonderful racket like a washing machine. Or maybe that's my drive shaft and u joints?

Oh yeah! I replaced u joints last year! Yeah they're toast already. The bent hanger and trashed bushings have allowed the axle to rock back and forth enough to destroy the u joints again. Hopefully I don't have to go into the transfer just yet, but I will if I have to. IT WILL BE FUN CHRIS, JUST DO IT!

Question! There's a cap on the top of the yolk on the rear drive shaft. I assume that it's suppose to be there on the front to, but it's not. It seems I can't keep grease in and dirt out and also wouldn't allow for the air cushion the sliding yolk operates under. See the picture of the front shaft.

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All the while, I'll be curing the underbelly and frame of rust and MUD! I'm thinking of using Eastwood's frame restoration kit. What say you? If I have time and cash I'll tackle the body rust and possibly replace the front driver side fender. The cancer is bad there.

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Laughing s*** looks good to me. Hanger is broken where? Boy you’d die if you saw the driver rear on my truck. Far worse. But my old truck, now that was a sight... holes larger than a couple half dollars side to side in the frame right where the hanger attached. I never wheeled it but this one, I can see regardless of some rust under there, it’s way more stout. Not saying you shouldn’t park it but, I don’t see the bad you speak of.
Here are some better shots of the gnarliness. I think it's causing the axle to sit slightly out of alignment and is binding the u joints and causing massive vibrations. It's also blown that shock 4 times in the last year. The leafs have a second axis of movement. Forward back up and down. Way too much movement for my comfort.

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Yeah, that's why I want to get after it now. Next year it'll be way worse. Colorado salts the roads with some nasty stuff.
 

brownbear

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You know some leaking on the seals is not such a big deal. Just keep topping up the diff oil. Mine leak too.

I'd grab the pinion and see how much it moves. Up and down. Probably worn out and a seal won't fix anything, but could seriously screw up your set up on the diff if you have a crush washer. So just don't do it.

I was able to find replacement diffs from another cruiser being parted out. I wanted 4:11's and got them.

Stay away from POR15, just oil the underneath liberally to keep it alive as long as you can. The rust on the fenders can be ground off, treat it with rust converter and hit it with rust paint. I'd also use an etching primer.

I have fought rust on my cruiser for a long time. Its a battle that can not be be beat. You just hold it back a little. I use krown oil and rust check. and LPS 3. Whatever, just spray all over.
 
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You know some leaking on the seals is not such a big deal. Just keep topping up the diff oil. Mine leak too.

I'd grab the pinion and see how much it moves. Up and down. Probably worn out and a seal won't fix anything, but could seriously screw up your set up on the diff if you have a crush washer. So just don't do it.

I was able to find replacement diffs from another cruiser being parted out. I wanted 4:11's and got them.

Stay away from POR15, just oil the underneath liberally to keep it alive as long as you can. The rust on the fenders can be ground off, treat it with rust converter and hit it with rust paint. I'd also use an etching primer.

I have fought rust on my cruiser for a long time. Its a battle that can not be be beat. You just hold it back a little. I use krown oil and rust check. and LPS 3. Whatever, just spray all over.
Swapping diffs would be a good move. What tire size are you running with 4:11? I have no idea how much the front end was used on this truck. I assume it was quite a bit as I'm at 267,800 miles on the engine and they had the roof rack up there for the life of the vehicle. I assume they used it considering the damage to the leaf hanger. The reason I think about changing it is because I have an OEM seal that I bought before realizing the issues with crush spacers and I've just held off on dealing with it until now. It's the biggest leak on the truck next to the timing gear cover. It leaves a puddle now and I don't like when my vehicles do that if I can avoid it.

If I had space to do a real paint job I would do it. I do want to get rid of whatever rust I can while I'm in there. I learned to drive in a 66 ford 100 that had been in a hail storm and repaired with bondo. I know rust is just a circular race to the finish line. I've never used Eastwood's products and was excited to see the internal box frame coating they make.
 

brownbear

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The rear diff is easier to pull than the front. They are the same though.

When the seal fails it's actually the pinion bearings that are gone. A new seal will fail almost immediately. So for you a second hand diff is better. One that is tight and not leaking.
With 4:11 I run 235/85R16 tires. It's about a 33" tire. When I bought my cruiser it had the size you have. I changed to a bigger tire when I put on a 2.5 inch lift. With stock springs on a 60 you are not going bigger than 30", without issues.

You're in a big land cruiser area, go on the classified here and see who is parting out a diff. And if you are not part of the local club join it. You might be able to find some help too. I think it's the Rising Sun club around there. They put on Cruise Moab each year.

No fancy rust products are needed, grind it off. Sand it off etc. Even a little sand blaster would be good. Then use a rust converter (rust check product) and paint with some etching paint (duplicolour) and top it with some spray enamel. Like rustoleum, or duplicolour (hi solids).

Underneath, use a rust inhibiting oil. Never worth painting unless its getting a frame off restoration. And the frame is getting dipped etc.
 

Willard

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Stay away from POR15, just oil the underneath liberally to keep it alive as long as you can. The rust on the fenders can be ground off, treat it with rust converter and hit it with rust paint. I'd also use an etching primer.

For your frame rust = what brown bear said above.

My entire frame has been oiled by the PO. it is a sucks as it collects sand and dirt (easy enough to be cleaned off), but do it once a year and your frame will survive. Mine has and lived its entire life in Illinois and Rhode Island, my C channels are just showing some movement, but nothing I am concerned with in the next 2-3 years.

Body is body, Toyota made these out of I swear low grade tin. Which is crazy as my father worked with Japanese steel industries for years and the materials they bought they always wanted the best......just not Toyota it seems.
Hell even the crates Hitachi would send the part of their excavators over in were deemed low grade by their standards and were better than most we ever saw our of US or Canadian manufactures.

Got a bit off topic sorry. for the body, surface rust, treat and paint. For holes, if you are on a budget, cut, treat, fill with quality body filler (fiberglass filler is better) and paint, large holes use a fiberglass cloth.
Otherwise if you have a gas welder (do not use flux core on a body, it is just going to frustrate you) weld any holes and panels.

As for the leaks, most can be fixed easy enough, just do not go down the rabbit hole.
 
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Thanks for the rust tips! I think I'll hold off on the diff seal until I can get the lift installed and go with some 33s.
Any words on the yolk cap on the front drive shaft?
 

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