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Got the head broken down this morning.
Looks okay. Very dirty. Some pitting in a few of the valve seats and their respective valves. Seals are defiantly leaky and rock hard. Had no trouble taking anything apart.
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I suspect someone did have this head off at one point. I found this small knick at the top of cylinder 3 and some scratch marks from a razor blade. This indexing pin is also crooked or chipped. There’s some pitting in the matting surfaces of the head and block. Not terrible but not great.
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This is a pita. It will not budge. I’ve stripped the head. Tried using a chisel and hammer and it’s getting worse. Looks like I’ll be drilling and extracting this one. This is the first bolt to give me problems this whole project. @ToyotaMatt are these available for the timing plate?

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Yes, those timing cover screws are available from Toyota. That Torx is the new style. They're probably red-loctite'd in since they're supposed to be staked. Hit with heat until it smokes.
 
Yes, those timing cover screws are available from Toyota. That Torx is the new style. They're probably red-loctite'd in since they're supposed to be staked. Hit with heat until it smokes.
The others came out with just a little force. They don’t show signs of loc-tite. I’ll try heat before I drill. Though there’s not much to grab onto even if I did get it hot.
 
I found a hand tap inside the water jacket of my cylinder head - and it got dropped in there accidentally at the factory in Japan.
These engines were assembled by people. They’re bound to be imperfect.
The next time my boss talks about being the Toyota of guitar manufacturing I’ll bring this up. Hahaha!!
 
Do you happen to have an impact driver?


That was just an illustration. I would personally get the Tekton or better:

 
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Do you happen to have an impact driver?


That was just an illustration. I would personally get the Tekton or better:


Oh, that’s a good idea. I’ll try heat and an impact.
 
I got this far. The bearings were starting to go out. The crank journals look okay at first glance. I’ll measure them this week when I get my micrometers in the mail.

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The top of all the rod bearings have this gouge near the oil hole. Not good, but I’ve see. Way worse. The piston skirts are pretty worn. No abnormal weirdness in the wrist pins.

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You know, if your crank and cam and pistons are good and within spec, you wouldn't be the first person to just put new flat bearings in and new rings and off you go - That's all SOR does for their 'Refreshed' engines and they work just fine.

These engines are tough, and those bearings are very large, and the forged 2F crankshafts (3F and later are cast), can take a lot of abuse.

MAFs old machinist and engine builder showed me all kinds of damaged 3FE Cranks, but he said the 2F usually showed little to no wear unless they were not properly maintained (oil changes).
 
You know, if your crank and cam and pistons are good and within spec, you wouldn't be the first person to just put new flat bearings in and new rings and off you go - That's all SOR does for their 'Refreshed' engines and they work just fine.

These engines are tough, and those bearings are very large, and the forged 2F crankshafts (3F and later are cast), can take a lot of abuse.

MAFs old machinist and engine builder showed me all kinds of damaged 3FE Cranks, but he said the 2F usually showed little to no wear unless they were not properly maintained (oil changes).

The cam and lifters look alright. They could use a refresh though. I think I might send them off to Delta Cam in Tacoma and have them do them. I’d really like to avoid sourcing a new crank shaft. Other than the snout being chewed up the journals look fine other than needing mild polishing.

Not sure if anyone in town is able to do the work on the crank properly.
 
On the timing plate machine screw, you can try driving it around with a punch or drift after you get it red hot. Mapp gas is hotter than propane torch if you don't have oxy/acetylene.
 

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