TOYOTA, more than ever before... (1 Viewer)

[cps432]

In other news I ran my fuel lines on Saturday and got my electric fuel pump and filters set up. I know, I know zip ties aren’t great, but I couldn’t find anything locally that was acceptable to use. In the meantime I’ll run this set up. Hopefully, if everything is operational and I get it all tuned up and drivable I can make the switch to a powersurge fuel pump or an in-tank system. I’m running 5/16 for the return so I can keep the factory hard line back to the tank. I made a little adapter for the send line from the tank to the E-pump because it goes from 5/16 to 3/8.

 

[cps432]

I also began running the wiring loom for the sniper and I got the fuel pump block off plate installed. I had installed a diehard agm battery in the truck last fall and I ran it dry charging my phone the past two weeks. No biggie I thought... I’ll just walk to advance auto and have them charge it up. Come to find out it’s a marine battery designed for a 4.5v trickle charge.... So it might be fried... it’s on the slow nuke now... we will see. I stopped doing things to the drunk and got day truck at noon...

 

[MoaByte]

I stopped doing things to the drunk and got day truck at noon...

I completely understand, but I speak fluent drunk too.

 

[OSS]

Well don’t feel too bad. No one has ever successfully rebuilt the FJ60 power steering pump to last very long. Key parts are not available. So think of it more as an exercise to see how it was assembled.
There’s nothing wrong with buying a new Toyota pump. A new pump was inevitable anyway. It’s just up to you whether you want to go the easy Toyota swap in way or the more involved Saginaw conversion

 

[cps432]

Well don’t feel too bad. No one has ever successfully rebuilt the FJ60 power steering pump to last very long. Key parts are not available. So think of it more as an exercise to see how it was assembled.
There’s nothing wrong with buying a new Toyota pump. A new pump was inevitable anyway. It’s just up to you whether you want to go the easy Toyota swap in way or the more involved Saginaw conversion

I’m toying back and forth with this. A remanned unit is about $100. But I understand that’s only gonna last a cool 6 months or so. I saw that the bushings they use as bearing surfaces in the OEM pump were worn down to the copper in a pattern that looked to be excessive, but normal wear. I have no idea where or if you can source those things. I suppose you could successfully rebuild an fj60 pump if you could find or make new sleeves to press in.

In the long haul, and while I’m in there, I’m leaning towards a Saginaw conversion. More costly up front then a reman Toyota unit but better for future repairs. Plus I’m running 33” tires which seems to be about the limit of the OEM pump. Decisions decisions decisions

 

[cps432]

Decided I’m gonna go for the Saginaw pump. Acquiring parts now.

In the meantime...

I cleaned and recurved my distributor. A few years back I found that oil was traveling up into the main housing. Fixed that problem but failed to catch the o ring on the advance diaphragm. It got nasty in there. So much so that the weights were frozen in place... along with the breaker plate. It was more or less seized up by the dried up oil, dirt, and shattered Bakelite stop pin bushing. Everything is nice and smooth now and seems to be functioning very well.

 

[cps432]

I sourced a #8 1/4 x 1/4 aluminum bushing for the stop pin. Fits perfectly.

Added the smallest amount of grease to the breaker plate bearings and got everything put back together.

I used MSD ignition part number 8464 for the springs. This should be good for the de smog and sniper setup.

 

[cps432]

Now we sit around and wait for parts....

 

[OSS]

Man you’re going in deep!

 

[cheeese]

Interested in how this works with the Sniper. You used the fine springs from that MSD kit?

 

[cps432]

I used one of the blue springs and one of the light silvers. Followed this advice... post #154

Builds - The Rushing Turdle

Looks really good! I'd be worried about the extra leverage that the rack has on the mounting brackets since the weight won't be directly on top of them. I'm not an engineer, but I would think your weight capacity will decrease because of that.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Spike Strip]

Nice fuel lines to the Sniper - Did you have those made? Is that a high-Temp outer shell ?

 

[cps432]

Nice fuel lines to the Sniper - Did you have those made? Is that a high-Temp outer shell ?

Thanks! It’s just high pressure gates 3/8 for the send and 5/16 for the return. The 3/8 came with the sniper kit. The fittings are AN to barb fittings supplied by Holley. I ordered a 5/16 for the return because I wanted to use the hard line back to the pump. The sniper install instructions say to use 3/8 for both but I’ve read threads where people are using 5/16 with success. I ideally wanted to make some hard lines but that started to get complicated, time consuming, and costly. I’ll do that some day along with new brake lines etc. In the mean time, being that those hoses are so close to the headers and I’m paranoid about vapor lock and fires I bought two of these and slipped them over the gates hose. I’ve seen it done on a few rigs and I like the look. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...eve/des0/010065?q=Fuel+hose+heat+sleeve&pos=3
I added some zip ties to the ends to really snug them in place so they don’t slip. If it wasn’t so doggone expensive I would have covered the send line all the way back to the tank. At that point I might as well get an in tank pump and run 3/8 hard lines forward and back!

 

[MoaByte]

I'm still 5/16 from firewall back, 3/8 on new hard lines under the hood. It's important that you don't have much back pressure on the return line. 5/16 should work if it doesn't have any tight turns.

 

[cps432]

I'm still 5/16 from firewall back, 3/8 on new hard lines under the hood. It's important that you don't have much back pressure on the return line. 5/16 should work if it doesn't have any tight turns.

I was kinda worried about that so I made sure everything is straight or gracefully bent. No hard kinks or bends!

 

[cps432]

Got a little further with wiring in the sniper. Loom has been run.

Fuel pump connected.

In cab screen run through the firewall.

The last thing I’m unsure of, here, is where to run the brown wire for the tach signal.

 

[cps432]

In other news, after battling with advance auto/carquest for an authorized battery warranty I got a new group 34 agm diehard battery and installed it.
Using my ‘official’ Toyoda SST I made myself a battery hold down bracket. Almost OEM... toyotamatt will never know!!

 

[cps432]

 

[MoaByte]

Teq

 

[MoaByte]

You AC and tach are on the same circuit. If I remember right, you don't need the brown wire. I thought is was the pink wire that connects in.