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Why did you not ditch this piece? I have a plate with a brass fitting on it attached to my brake booster.
I was ordering my desmog kit from JimC and figured I’d just keep it and run my pcv valve to it like stock. I didn’t want to order the plate from MAF and pay for another package to be shipped. If I don’t like it, I’ll change it.
 
Anyone know if the original PS pump was painted black or was it silver like the water pump housing? After scrubbing and using a wire wheel on the body I see no paint. Just curious.
 
I just rerouted my PCV to the lrg. Port on the Sniper. It's probably my imagination, but seems to run smoother. (I had it on weak vacuum on the breather)
 
This gear box appears to be a reman... I have my concerns now.... I found this message under a layer of dark blue paint that peeled right off with carb cleaner and a red rag.
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I just rerouted my PCV to the lrg. Port on the Sniper. It's probably my imagination, but seems to run smoother. (I had it on weak vacuum on the breather)
I’m pretty deep into my pockets so far on this project(s) so I’ll see how it handles with this setup. I do like the clean look of the plate, though. I’ll keep that in mind.
 
I’m pretty deep into my pockets so far on this project(s) so I’ll see how it handles with this setup. I do like the clean look of the plate, though. I’ll keep that in mind.
It isn't super important, but I wonder about the turbulence that pipe sticking into the intake, might be a benefit? Why did the engineers extend it that far in to the intake in first place?
 
It isn't super important, but I wonder about the turbulence that pipe sticking into the intake, might be a benefit? Why did the engineers extend it that far in to the intake in first place?
I was wondering that very thing today when installing things. I’ve watched a lot of videos on doing intake polishing jobs on high end race engines and there seems to be a debate going about having a rough surface for the intake to help atomize the fuel. But, being this is just a tractor engine perhaps it will never make much of a difference either way.
 
Yep. Some folks would mount a screen under their carbs on the old flat-head Fords. I contemplated cutting the intake gasket thingy into an oval instead of the dual port design but chickened out.
 
#1 and #6 are so far away.. my though is turbulence is a good thing. The better atomization of fuel, the more efficient. Even on a tractor motor.
 
#1 and #6 are so far away.. my though is turbulence is a good thing. The better atomization of fuel, the more efficient. Even on a tractor motor.
Agreed. Going in turbulence is probably good. Exiting is a different story.
 
Well, things can never be as smooth as you’d hope. I ordered the fj62 PS pump rebuild kit rather than the fj60 kit from cruiser corps. I have the correct kit inbound and will take this time to properly paint the housing. In the mean time, on to the gear box.
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I knew I should have broken that pitman arm nut free on the truck... gonna have to install it again temporarily to get the leverage to break it. Oh well. Live and learn.
 
This em effer will not budge. I’ve bent and ruined one pitman arm puller. Rented an other and I’m about to break this one too. The hammer handle is staring to split... trying to think of a way to get it into my press but I’m concerned I might break something internally. I don’t have my torch with me.... any other ideas?
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One of the neighbors saw me struggling and handed me this...
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🤣🤣🤣
 
Got it back together, scrubbed the rust off and degreased it. Hit it with a rust converter. Primed it and now I’m waiting for paint to dry.
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Got the sniper mounted onto the intake. Began rigging up the lokar cable. Drilled a few holes... it’s okay I like Swiss cheese. Plus I can run my vacuum line for my vac gauge in the cab through there....shut up!
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I am running a 4Runner brake booster and it may be larger than the factory fj60 booster. Not sure... anyhow it was not allowing me to mount the lokar where the pedal wanted to live so I evicted the factory gas pedal location from its living conditions and bent it over a few inches so the hand throttle “mount” would clear the evap line on the firewall and the brake booster.
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It started getting dark and it was beer30 so I’ll finish mocking it up in the morning.
 
Aaaand I went and f***ked it up good...
got the correct rebuild kit in the mail for the PS pump and got it all together. Torquing the final bolt and snap....
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Ef my life....
I guess I’ll be converting to a Saginaw pump now... 🙄 Two weeks off work just became three. At least... and probably more.
 
Oy!
If that’s the result of using a torque wrench - then you’re learning the hard lesson the hard way like I did.
The FSM says to use the five (or fire if you’re losely translating from Japanese 🤣) zinc plated bolts to torque the housing together then install the reservoir and torque that last bolt to 34 ftlbs like the rest of the zinc bolts. I was wondering why it wasn’t torquing like the others. I even stopped and checked my wrench to make sure it was still set correctly. I checked it against the other bolts and it was properly torqued all the way around. That one bolt kept turning and turning and right as I was thinking “something is definitely not right” SNAP... I know it wasn’t cross threaded because I was able to install it by hand up to the rubber gasket. At that point I applied the wrench. I guess Toyota dropped the ball on the PS pump this time. Maybe I did too... probably...
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