My Sherline scale is just sitting under my workbench getting bored.
Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (5 Viewers)
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I use my sherline scales often. It helps that my camper fits in my basement right next to my floor jack. I have the 1k lb one for my tongue and the 5k lb one to weigh each independent axle. My camper carries more weight on the drivers side due to a 360° awning and how the kitchen slide out is oriented.
@linuxgod no way 200 pounds of water added that much to your setup. At our weight and size a couple hundred pounds is massive, on the typical rig on a CAT scale it ain’t much. I agree, there must be some acceptable range of accuracy for those CAT scales and maybe a couple hundred pounds is within that tolerance.
@linuxgod no way 200 pounds of water added that much to your setup. At our weight and size a couple hundred pounds is massive, on the typical rig on a CAT scale it ain’t much. I agree, there must be some acceptable range of accuracy for those CAT scales and maybe a couple hundred pounds is within that tolerance.
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That’s because it costs as much as a scale to ship it now!My Sherline scale is just sitting under my workbench getting bored.
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They claim accurate to 10# but I don’t buy it. My load trip to trip isn’t significantly different.
Helping a friend move included his non-running XJ, so we rented a U-Haul car hauler. Easy peasy.
Got back from a 2k mile California glamping adventure. Big Sur and Monterey are such a great reprieve from the summer heat. Had family and friends along to enjoy the most indulgent campsite.
I knew I was going to be heavy enough that it would be worthwhile swapping over to 35s for better gearing, especially the safety of stronger engine braking. While it does great on 37s, it does run better overall on 35x12.5R20s.
Did see high ambient temps of 103°F in central CA. On one extended climb, saw engine coolant temps peak a 208°F. I've never seen over 203°F prior. I guess 5,600rpm for 10 minutes at a time will do that. Tranny temps with aux tranny cooler holding and doing well.
Your fat ass (rear axle) even exceeds mine. And here I thought 1200 over was pushing it
Fat ass is right. This was a 7-day trip RVing with 6 people aboard. Gas and fresh water tanks full. Complement of full travel trailer/gear along with RTT and awning gear on vehicle. So about 2500lbs payload between passengers, gear, and 1200lb tongue. I don't even have airbags in anymore so this is all AHC with some augmentation with spacers handling the load.
Surprised to see so much weight on the rear axle of the LX570 (front 3220 and rear 5820lbs). I would have expected your WDH together with around 1200 lbs tongue weight to have values more in the order of 3220 and around 4500lbs. Must be those gold bars you are carrying with you in the boot... Or the WDH being useless...
I tend to run with just enough tension to provide solid sway stability. For where I go with lots of elevation changes and steep dips and driveways, having too much tension creates a lot of strain on the chassis and trailer tongue. I'm also setup for more weekend trips for my immediate family of 4 where I'm not as heavy. To your point, some more tension may have been good but as you can see, most of my load is about the rear axle and WD tension will only do so much.
With a traditional/LC suspension, it will naturally squat with load, which will add WD tension to better distribute to the front axle. As AHC doesn't squat statically, the WD tension doesn't auto compensate so I would have to anticipate to setup my WD with more tension ahead of time. Though AHC does lower at speed so it is adding tension to better distribute during highway running.
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Out of curiosity - what did trans temps reach? Pan or output of converter?
At this weight level, putting out anything over 300hp for extended periods will readily trip the first protection threshold which is a combined over 203°F coolant and 266°F converter temps. At which point the transmission will lockup the torque converter aggressively in 3rd and 2nd gears. I've been able to trip this threshold even in 40°F ambient weather.
Once that trips, converter and pan temps will track within 5°F. And it'll hold temps under 230-240°F.
This was the reason for the aux aux tranny cooler install as previously, the pan temps would continue to creep even with lockup.
I realize I'm well beyond stock capacities and usage, and I'm interested in how much harder I can push this platform. I think I'm there. For reference, the Tundra GCVWR maxes at 16k lbs with the same driveline. The Tundra has a larger factory tranny cooler. It has larger front brakes (which I have). It also is available with a tow package with 4.3 diff gears (which I have). Interestingly, the Tundra has a rear GAWR of 4100lbs which is 200lbs less than the 200-series rear GAWR or 4300lbs.
Utterly flogged, the Cruiser kept on cruising.
It’s good to hear how hard some of yall push these things, I think about posts like this as I pass the little pull-offs on those long climbs. I see one and think to myself,”no way @TeCKis300 would let up yet… don’t wimp out now!.” I’ve probably saved so much time not stopping which has definitely led to much better dispersed camp sites.
Thanks much for the comments/thoughts. Happy to hear you use the WDH more as anti sway then trying to weight distribute. You know I am not a fan of the weight distribution aspect and the way through torque on the hitch the vehicle is lifted up rear and pushed down front, especially when you dynamically go through road bumps or road work transitions at say 60 mph.
I am surprised to hear you removed the airbags. Any reason? I would think the AHC be outside its happy operating envelope when I look at those type axle loads. I still have mine with the Kevlar sleeves from Airbagman and love to level the LC200 when I tow by having them at 32 to 34 psi, then again I have no AHC which certainly has its perks.
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I pulled my Firestone airbags as they were damaged. They both developed stress riser cracks and would no longer hold air. It's possibly due to how I use my vehicle on long baja type runs and the rubber/plasticky material just doesn't put up with that kind of dynamic use and heat. Or how the jounce stops interface with the bags. Or both.
As I had to tow without the bags, it also showed me that AHC was up to task with minimal (20mm) augmentation. So I took it further and ordered a fresh set of rear AHC springs and 40mm spring spacers. I'm sensor lifted in the rear about 1", so it's really a net augmentation of about 15mm. It's handling 2500lbs payload just fine. Caveat is that it won't go into AHC high with 2500lbs. It'll go into high with about 2000lbs payload. I don't need the clearance of AHC high when towing so I'm not really motivated to get bags in again.
If I did get bags again, I might try Airbagman. Or Airlifts. I had Airlifts for many years and they worked great until I needed taller bags with AHC long travel and is when I switched to Firestones. The Airlifts felt like they were a high quality rubber versus the plasticky Firestones.
My bags died a similar death as well.
Thanks for the update and explanation. Makes sense to go for fresh AHC shocks.
While my airbagmans (= firestone bags + Kevlar sleeve) are doing good for now, I do very little off-road and flexing of the suspension so the real experience is probably with the folks down under. Be interesting to hear from our Aussie friends.
While my airbagmans (= firestone bags + Kevlar sleeve) are doing good for now, I do very little off-road and flexing of the suspension so the real experience is probably with the folks down under. Be interesting to hear from our Aussie friends.
I’ve ran the airbag man long bags since the beginning, they work as advertised. Before I went to the correct spring rate, the hose inlet started to expand a little. I was way under spring and was running 15psi just driving around and 60-65 while towing. These things took abuse for 30k miles and seemed to hold up fine.
New vs old in new springs, big difference prior to use. OME 2722 upgraded to 2723.
New vs old in new springs, big difference prior to use. OME 2722 upgraded to 2723.
Happy Friday!
Been reading SO much info on this thread and others in regards to towing, what hitches to use, scales, setup, OBD II Gauge monitoring, and trying to keep it all straight. I figured I would toss this to the masses and see if I am on the right track.
Ill start off saying I know am towing heavy, maybe too heavy. I am open to downgrading the size of the trailer to match the capacity of this LX. But any opinions and direction would be awesome. With that said, here is what I am looking to do.
Just bought a new to me 2013 LX570:
2013 LX
100,000 miles
Supercharged since 30,000 miles
Big brake kit, 6 piston fronts, 4 piston rears
Tuned and exhaust upgrades
I am wanting to tow this:
2024 Forest River Campsite Reserve
24' long
Dry weight around #6500----aka heavy for an LX
Currently towing it with this:
Which I know can tow a house. I don't even feel the trailer behind this. And I know I am in no way going to replicate that with the LX.
With the additional boost from the SC on the LX, and with the bigger, more powerful brakes, I am just wondering/hoping pulling this RV will be manageable. I live here in Utah and cover the state on our adventures. We are mostly off grid and in some more remote places.
The reason for the switch is that I am wanting to use the work truck less, and my personal rig more. And having a smaller foot print. Trying to get in tight places with a crew cab long bed and trailer has been problematic a couple of times.
I am looking to get this WD hitch:
With the #800 tongue weight
And this OBDII gauge setup:
I think I am on the right path to be in good shape. If I have to, I am looking at smaller RV's to fit in the right parameters, but that is an expensive option B.
Will the AHC of the Lx handle what I am looking to do? Do I/Can I add air bags to help? Or is that unnecessary with the AHC.
I know I am pushing some of the limits here, but am I too far to the line to be safe?
Thoughts from anyone on this setup? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Been reading SO much info on this thread and others in regards to towing, what hitches to use, scales, setup, OBD II Gauge monitoring, and trying to keep it all straight. I figured I would toss this to the masses and see if I am on the right track.
Ill start off saying I know am towing heavy, maybe too heavy. I am open to downgrading the size of the trailer to match the capacity of this LX. But any opinions and direction would be awesome. With that said, here is what I am looking to do.
Just bought a new to me 2013 LX570:
2013 LX
100,000 miles
Supercharged since 30,000 miles
Big brake kit, 6 piston fronts, 4 piston rears
Tuned and exhaust upgrades
I am wanting to tow this:
2024 Forest River Campsite Reserve
24' long
Dry weight around #6500----aka heavy for an LX
Currently towing it with this:
Which I know can tow a house. I don't even feel the trailer behind this. And I know I am in no way going to replicate that with the LX.
With the additional boost from the SC on the LX, and with the bigger, more powerful brakes, I am just wondering/hoping pulling this RV will be manageable. I live here in Utah and cover the state on our adventures. We are mostly off grid and in some more remote places.
The reason for the switch is that I am wanting to use the work truck less, and my personal rig more. And having a smaller foot print. Trying to get in tight places with a crew cab long bed and trailer has been problematic a couple of times.
I am looking to get this WD hitch:
And this OBDII gauge setup:
I think I am on the right path to be in good shape. If I have to, I am looking at smaller RV's to fit in the right parameters, but that is an expensive option B.
Will the AHC of the Lx handle what I am looking to do? Do I/Can I add air bags to help? Or is that unnecessary with the AHC.
I know I am pushing some of the limits here, but am I too far to the line to be safe?
Thoughts from anyone on this setup? Suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
I don't know that there is a clear line between safe and unsafe but you are on the heavier end depending on how much crap you put in the trailer and LX. You don't mention a trailer brake controller which is absolutely required, BBK or not. I believe with a good setup with your hitch and taking care to not add a ton more weight to your LX, you COULD be just fine. You will absolutely notice that shorter wheelbase compared to your pick up. The next biggest factor will be your driving style. I notice most of our bad outcomes on the roads here in Utah are a combination of improper weight distribution (poor hitch set up, over payload, poorly adjusted brakes, hanging crap off the back of the trailer) and reckless driving. Stay at or below the posted speed limit and drive defensively. Arrive alive. Your fuel gauge will let you know when you're going too fast.
I have no knowledge but am curious about how towing with the supercharger affects temperatures (engine and transmission). I find high mountain passes and summer temps a little disconcerting with my smaller-than-your-proposed-set-up (23' Airstream 4700 lbs dry).
AHC should handle those weights fine.
Your loaded weight for that camper is probably north of 8k, especially with water tanks full. With a supercharger, it'll pull it no problem.
I like the big brake kit and the upgraded brake controller.
Your weak spot will be cooling.
• Check your radiator. At the badge on top, there is typically a small crack that begins to form at the 90º angle of the front of the badge where it meets the main body of the radiator. A stress crack forms over time, and it'll vent fluid. Toyota fixed it, changing the design mid-2018. You might want a newer radiator with what you plan to do with the LX if it doesn't already have it.
• Change your radiator fluid (it can apparently get acidic over time and eat away at gaskiets/sealant)
• Change. your transmission fluid. I do this 5qt at a time. Drain the pan, and replace whatever comes out with the exact same amount. Wait till it cools to measure if you want to be really precise about it. Do it every 20k if you're going to tow that kind of load while supercharged.
• You might look into putting a bigger transmission cooler on your LX or maybe add one in line. I would pin the thermostat open, too. There is a huge discussion on the Tundra forum about this. Same engine/transmission, but the Tundra has a far bigger radiator. Many over there are running their thermostat pinned open. Counter-intuitively, they report lower overall temps even after towing long distances vs running it unpinned. Your mileage may vary.
Thanks for the feedback. I did forget to mention that I did just get a brake controller installed. I knew that would be a critical piece as well.
I am curious if the WD hitch I selected is a preferred style, vs the chain tensioners. I have heard/seen both. I know the hitch weight is important and think I have the correct one based on the weight.
The RV will be getting a hitch put on to carry the MTB's and MTB rack as well. I have a 2 bike, 4 bike, and 7 bike racks, but most of the time it is just me and the misses with 2 bikes. I know that adding that weight to the back makes a difference.
As for driving, I know and see all that Utah has to offer, and have seen it all. I pull enough equipment around that I know when towing, I am driving like a grandpa in the right lanes. I don't need to get anywhere fast, just safe.
I am very curious to the temp control of both motor and trans with the SC. Hence the OBD II gauge. I know I need to be watching that closely and am curious as to how well the extra power gets me over Parley's or other canyons pulling the weight.
Unladened the rig rips!
I am curious if the WD hitch I selected is a preferred style, vs the chain tensioners. I have heard/seen both. I know the hitch weight is important and think I have the correct one based on the weight.
The RV will be getting a hitch put on to carry the MTB's and MTB rack as well. I have a 2 bike, 4 bike, and 7 bike racks, but most of the time it is just me and the misses with 2 bikes. I know that adding that weight to the back makes a difference.
As for driving, I know and see all that Utah has to offer, and have seen it all. I pull enough equipment around that I know when towing, I am driving like a grandpa in the right lanes. I don't need to get anywhere fast, just safe.
I am very curious to the temp control of both motor and trans with the SC. Hence the OBD II gauge. I know I need to be watching that closely and am curious as to how well the extra power gets me over Parley's or other canyons pulling the weight.
Unladened the rig rips!
Fantastic info. Thanks for that. I will get the cooling system and transmission baselined with that in mind. I can do that easy enough.
We traditionally are in Southern Utah---Zions, Gooseberry, Kanab, but this time of the year we try to head north and to cooler temps. I don't see us loading it up and hitting the road to So. Utah when its 100 to 110 degrees out. Even so, I know with this weight I am adding a lot of stress when it comes to keeping those components in the right temp ranges.
Parley's should be fine it's really only that last mile that is steep. it's possible to crest over 65 MPH with a big dumb heavy trailer when naturally aspirated (and 5000+ RPM). Mirror Lake Highway is more of a problem for prolonged steepness and low speeds where heat soak becomes a problem. Highway 24 into Loa is the other place I saw the ATF start to climb up uncomfortably. Still curious to see if the SC lets you keep a higher speed and more air passing through to keep you cooler.
