Tool bag, tool box, go big or go home (1 Viewer)

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I carry a multitool and AAA for around town...multitool is to cut open bag of trail mix while I wait for AAA 🤣

For road trips, I still carry AAA but also a Tekton 3/8" socket set (SAE + Metric 6-pts in standard + deep) in a blow-molded case that fits perfectly in tuffy box, Knipex Cobra pliers and Knipex Pliers Wrench.

There's probably a lot I can't do with only those tools...but so far, my plan is preventative maintenance and be in good shape to walk out if needed 🙃
 
I tend to go off road a lot of the time on my own so carry:

2 X tool rolls with three different styles of spanners, one set straight open ended, one set straight open ended with angled ring at the other end, and another set of rings spanners which are all offset, all sized from 6 mm thru to IIRC 24 mm. Set of screwdrivers as to be expected, various pliers and a great set of offset Knipex pliers which can get you out of so much trouble. (Tailgate storage within the next couple of weeks as I have added more 'stuff' and need the space

A full socket set, plus the hub nut deep socket (yes I do carry a spare pre greased CV and drive flange, starter, alternator), circlip pliers, a set of Allen keys, Digital test meter, usual fuses, cable, bulbs, duct tape (who doesn't?). Gas soldering iron and solder, steel wire, gasket paper,

One ball peen hammer which can be used for more than bashing something, those 'in the know' can make great gaskets using the ball peen end.
Various knives and cutting tools, 2 x hacksaws, two axes (one small/one large), wire brush, hook up electric cable if near a campsite and need a shower, although the car has 2 x solar panels and 20+ litres of water in the rear wing in a bladder and a shower that fits to the roof rack.

I was under the bonnet of my first car at a little past 10 years old and driving to school by the age of 13 (typical East Londoner kid), and spent most of my life as a mechanic, so reckon there is another 25 things I have forgotten to list such is my memory. Am I OTT? You bet! :rolleyes:

Having said that a diesel 80 is soooo reliable so why I bother I don't know?

Regards

Dave
 
Well, in my oz patrol. When the top is down the drawers are locked in place. Just to be safe, the key locks and prevents the top from opening/bouncing open when offroad.

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Wood box behind is full of recovery gear and tyre repair stuff. To the right the arb fridge gets strapped down. The tool box and wood box are bolted down to the plywood subfloor/box. There's a 70 litre bladder in that subfloor area.

Haven't gone mad on our 80 (yet) - but then there's a slightly different level of remoteness in the oz bush :)

cheers,
george.
 
I went with the CLC 1132 tool backpack. Waited until there was an Amazon open box deal: Amazon product ASIN B0000DYVCY
I then used a seam ripper to remove a lot of the stuff I didn't want like backpack straps and some of the internal pockets. Also cut up a Husky Bucket Boss and used E6000 fabric glue to mount new/different pockets and pouches where I need them.

It holds a TON of tools and packs tall and flat to slip down next to my drawer system. Houses basically all the tools I need for the Cruiser and I work mostly out of this bag even when wrenching at home.


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Wow there's some serious OCD in a couple of those kits!!

I usually pack tools from my garage kit into a 18" vinyl tool bag.
Takes maybe 15 minutes to throw everything in a pack.
I'll take ⅜ and ½" drive sockets, ratchets, extensions etc.
Ratchet wrenches, ring/open end wrenches.
Assorted pliers, c clip pliers, vice grips.
Brass punches, cold chisels, podge bar, pry bar, a dead blow and 4lb hammer
Torque wrench
54mm hub nut socket
Assorted fuses, zip ties, electrical wire, tie wire, duct tape.
A set of nut splitters, and Irwin bolt removal sockets.

I've thought about a second set of tools to stay in the cruiser. Haven't been able to justify the spend yet.
I have started putting together a kit of mission critical parts, and need to figure out permanent storage in the cruiser.
I have a 20mm ammo can I want to set up permanent mount in the back, but not convinced it's ideal.
 
There's been a great bit of input on this thread, and it's great to see what so many have done. Not for selfish reasons, but I don't carry the tools that I won't use on my own vehicle. But after reading that others carry standard tools and metric sizes that we don't typically encounter, it's changed my thinking a bit on what tools I may want to consider having with me on the trail.

The Milwaukee toolbox is one of my favorite solutions to storage. I find that bags aren't good enough to organize things for me. YMMV. Tool rolls are great and I own several, but when it comes to tools that aren't particularly flat, they become a pain for me. My tools have to be organized. If they aren't where they are supposed to be, I'm either missing a tool, or won't easily find it next time I need it, so I find it and put it in the right spot. As I get older I see the need for clearly market tools. I can tell a 10 from a 12, but I like numbers that I can see.

I would like to build something off of the Milwaukee design that fits ARB / Dobinsons drawers with ease. I've invested in foam cutting tools that provide incredible precision for cuts and depths, so there's a lot that I can do. I purchased it for another project and I'm considering making inserts that would give some easy organization, visibility, and use have less wasted space. With the right foam, I can get two layers of tools arranged quite nicely I think.
 
There's been a great bit of input on this thread, and it's great to see what so many have done. Not for selfish reasons, but I don't carry the tools that I won't use on my own vehicle. But after reading that others carry standard tools and metric sizes that we don't typically encounter, it's changed my thinking a bit on what tools I may want to consider having with me on the trail.

I agree and do carry a fairly complete set of tools/sockets, the reason is just in case someone else has forgotten a certain tool and they might be stranded without it, what do you do, leave them at the side of the trail while you go off and source the correct tool for them, ruining your day or weekend at the same time? The other reason is these trucks are getting old, and if you need to remove a rusted 12mm bolt on your own truck you might finding it rounding off, hammering an 11mm onto the nut or bolt might see you back on the trail quicker.

And I completely agree I am well OTT, being a mechanic for so many years makes you like that, FWIW I cannot have different styles/brands of coat hangers in the wardrobe
either, so it is not just the tools..........maybe it's just me. 🙄

Regards

Dave
 
Sub'd

Not much to add other than using Nato ammo cans for mine, but, I want/need to expand what I carry.
 
Mingles' set up is particularly impressive, but TYM4FUN, Broski, and Rocketdriver have nice setups too. Makes my setup feel inadequate! But like some others here, I just perform PM prior to the trip and basically hope nothing major fails. That being said, I should probably pick up the 54mm hub nut socket that so ubiquitous in your kits.

I carry the original Toyota tool bag (like effjay) with the bottle jack, tucked in the left quarter panel.

I have a 5 gallon bucket my recovery/tree straps, shackles, juice pack/jump starter, jack base plate, a roll of duct tape, 18" adjustable wrench and breaker bar.

I carry my hand tools in an old M3 medic bag. It has a 3/8" socket kit, pliers/wire cutters, a ratcheting wrench set, 12" adjustable wrench, locking pliers, a 6-in-1 screwdriver, hex drivers, hammer, rubber mallet, flashlight, mutlitool, electrical tape, various zip ties, a spool of gardening wire, fuses/fusible link, and dielectric grease.

I would love to convert my tailgate into a storage area and get a couple more tool rolls. That would better organize things.
 
The bag is also nice when you need to help someone that's further up the trail, you can just grab it and go.
Trail mix is fine for me as long as I have a wrench for every nut or bolt on my 80. most of whats in my bag I got used off of Ebay to build up a set of just whats needed with out taking from my well organized shop tools !!
And only quality tools, Snap-on Blue point and I'm fine with old made in the USA Craftsman tools.
To me it's all about the weight, the more you Reg weighs the more chance you have breaking it. JMHO
Fully built and armored on 39s, matching spare tire, tool bag, recovery gear and a full tank of gas my 80 weigh's in at 5600 LBS ;)
 
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Other than the fusible links, what other fuses or relays should one carry as a spare?
 
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The headlights dip and main relays are known for letting go without warning. On the diesel it is the two next to each other, one brown and one black, might be worth checking which is which on yours? The contacts get burnt up but can be fixed at the side of the road by opening them up and cleaning the contacts and putting back together, that should get you out of trouble for awhile if you are not carrying spares.

Regards

Dave
 
I have ADHD pretty bad so if you asked me what tools you need to fix any possible side of road scenario my head might explode. However, whatever I'm afflicted helps to solve just about any impossible situation with crap that's laying around.

I've been told I could give McGyver a run for his money with some of the side of the road fixes I have pulled off. I have changed a tire on side the road with a wheel on a trailer with nothing but a chunk of firewood, the hand sanitizer from a porta-potty and a can of camping propane. I find I never, ever have the "right" tool for anything so I just carry the tools I have found are the absolute most useful/versatile.

I carry a 10" Channel locks, a Sharpie marker, an 8" Crescent wrench, an electricians pocket knife, a plastic kids action toy with bumpy arm and leg muscles and a small roll of 14 gauge wire. When I go way out in the boonies I take a high lift jack, shovel and a 30-30.

The sharpie can write on anything, but you can also shove it in a hose to stop a leak or you can use the knife to cut both ends off and shove it in a 3/8" or 10MM hose to bypass a bad component or fix a leak. The wire can tie stuff up or patch something electrical.

I don't recall ever using a high-lift jack to lift a vehicle, but I did get locked in a national park once on a date with a nice lady and found that if you stuff a hi-lift jack in even the highest security steel gate, with a cheater on the handle, the gate will give up before the jack does. They will break lower grades of 3/8" chain as well.

Now I'm sure you're wondering what the hell the kids toy is for. The plastic kids toy is the ultimate fix-anything in the middle of nowhere tire and radiator hose patch kit. The arms and legs can be ripped off and shoved into smaller tire holes with the help of a little lube like mosquito repellent (works great!). The bulging muscles are perfect for holding the plastic piece in place, they usually have little fists that are perfect for starting them in the tire hole. If they won't fit you can shave them down with the knife. The torso can plug a giant hole in tread or a sidewall.

That's what I carry.
 
I have ADHD pretty bad so if you asked me what tools you need to fix any possible side of road scenario my head might explode. However, whatever I'm afflicted helps to solve just about any impossible situation with crap that's laying around.

I've been told I could give McGyver a run for his money with some of the side of the road fixes I have pulled off. I have changed a tire on side the road with a wheel on a trailer with nothing but a chunk of firewood, the hand sanitizer from a porta-potty and a can of camping propane. I find I never, ever have the "right" tool for anything so I just carry the tools I have found are the absolute most useful/versatile.

I carry a 10" Channel locks, a Sharpie marker, an 8" Crescent wrench, an electricians pocket knife, a plastic kids action toy with bumpy arm and leg muscles and a small roll of 14 gauge wire. When I go way out in the boonies I take a high lift jack, shovel and a 30-30.

The sharpie can write on anything, but you can also shove it in a hose to stop a leak or you can use the knife to cut both ends off and shove it in a 3/8" or 10MM hose to bypass a bad component or fix a leak. The wire can tie stuff up or patch something electrical.

I don't recall ever using a high-lift jack to lift a vehicle, but I did get locked in a national park once on a date with a nice lady and found that if you stuff a hi-lift jack in even the highest security steel gate, with a cheater on the handle, the gate will give up before the jack does. They will break lower grades of 3/8" chain as well.

Now I'm sure you're wondering what the hell the kids toy is for. The plastic kids toy is the ultimate fix-anything in the middle of nowhere tire and radiator hose patch kit. The arms and legs can be ripped off and shoved into smaller tire holes with the help of a little lube like mosquito repellent (works great!). The bulging muscles are perfect for holding the plastic piece in place, they usually have little fists that are perfect for starting them in the tire hole. If they won't fit you can shave them down with the knife. The torso can plug a giant hole in tread or a sidewall.

That's what I carry.

This is what I came here for...time to throw an action figure in my bag and buy a hi-lift jack.
 
I do have a couple of high lift jacks (48 and 60) but just carry the 60, the 48 sits in the workshop collecting dust. I used a Hi Lift under the tow bar to lift the rear of a 200 that could not get out of a canyon bend, car went in OK but could not get out. With the back wheels off of the floor we pushed the car over to one side, and then did it again and the car was out. Probably one of the best off road tools you can carry.

Regards

Dave
 
I’ll get photos tomorrow

Tool Drawer
  1. 3/8
    • 3/8 socket set deep and shallow 6 point
    • 3/8 impact adapter
    • 3/8 extensions and swivel
  2. 1/2
    • Abbreviated deep socket set 6 point
    • 10,12,14,17,19,24 mm
    • Extensions
    • 1/2” to 3/4” addapter and 52mm hub socket
    • 1/2” impact adapter
  3. Vice grips (small set and large set)
  4. Dewalt impact driver + battery and bit box
  5. Tool roll
    • Ratcheting and swivel end box wrenches in same mm range as 1/2 sockets
    • Brass punch
    • Channel locks
    • Dykes
    • Needle nose pliers
    • Snap Ring pliers
    • Abbreviated 1/4 inch socket set and driver in small end bags
    • Valve stem puller
  6. Band-aid boo boo kit
  7. Silicone lube
Deep storage (back deep drawer)
  1. Screw, Studs, Nut, Bolt & Washer kit
  2. Spill Kit
  3. Electrical kit
    • Fluke 117 DMM
    • 7’ spooling Test leads
    • Relays, FPR, Fusible Links, fuses
    • Open circuit relay
    • Wire Crimp & stripper combo tool
    • Assorted butt and ring connectors
    • Dielectric grease
    • Sharpie
  4. Tire and spares kit
    • A fair quantity of tire plugs & tool
    • Rubber tire cement
    • Sidewall slug
    • X2 valve stems
    • X4 valve stem cores
    • Fuel pressure regulator
    • Hose clamps
    • Vulcanized radiator hose repair tape
    • JB weld
    • JB Steel Stick
  5. Major Spares (I carry these on extended overland trips)
    • Rear Drive Shaft
    • Rear Lower Control Arms
    • Birfield & Molly
Factory Subwoofer Cubby
  1. Assorted hoses from 8mm vacuum hose to trans & heater core hose sizes
  2. Auto siphon tube
  3. X2 fan belts
  4. X2 ratchet straps
  5. 1qt Brake fluid
  6. 1qt trans / ps fluid
  7. 1qt diff oil
Ipad
  1. PDF of full Factory Service Manual
  2. PDF of ham radio programmed presets with map of repeater locations
 
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Because so much of my travels is solo in remote places I carry everything to get me home……so far
I limit my tools and spares to 2 boxes with a total weight of 100lbs and use 10x24x12 of space

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A good exercise when doing maintenance/servicing/repairs at home is to do it with the tools you have permanently in the truck. This lets you find out all sorts of things that would otherwise stuff you up. Doing this I found:

- None of the 14mm spanners or sockets I had would let me get on the driveshaft bolts. Brought a specific wrench that 100% fits
- The 54mm socket I had was too thick-walled to fit on the hub nut, brought a tube style one
- Ratchet was too big to get on the brake caliper bolts - 17mm wrench added (yes i know they should be torqued)
-Channel locks to get the fuel filter undone (Diesel)
-10 and 12mm ratchet spanners are super handy
-Can't get wheel nuts off without a breaker bar - added
-Brass punch and world's crappiest snap ring pliers for hub studs and snap ring.
- I need an unusual combination of extensions and flex joints to get to the top nut on my 1HDT starter
- Take the battery out of your meter - or buy an auto off one.
 

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