To Lipstick And Beyond (1 Viewer)

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After replacing/renewing the cooling system, it was on to fuel system.

Replaced all soft fuel lines at tank and on frame. Also replaced fuel pump, stock fuel filter (old one was swinging in the breeze between two hoses-fastened the new one down to frame where it belongs), and bent a continous hard line (first time) from fuel pump to carb using some old 8 mm brake line. I've got a few small kinks but I eliminated an after market fuel filter, two pieces of hose, and four clamps up next to the head. Safer and cleaner looking, I think.

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looks good! The hard line is a tricky one to get right. I did mine out of stainless which was even more tough to bend. Keep going!!
 
You're right! The line wants to work harden easily so no rebends or bends closeby. I may practice on a second one later purely for aesthetics reasons. There just seems to be too much to do right now. Focusing on trying to secure reliability wherever I have control of that.
 
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After replacing/renewing the cooling system, it was on to fuel system.

Replaced all soft fuel lines at tank and on frame. Also replaced fuel pump, stock fuel filter (old one was swinging in the breeze between two hoses-fastened the new one down to frame where it belongs), and bent a continous hard line (first time) from fuel pump to carb using some old 8 mm brake line. I've got a few small kinks but I eliminated an after market fuel filter, two pieces of hose, and four clamps up next to the head. Safer and cleaner looking, I think.

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Nice work!!!
 
Not a lot of what I call progress for this update but I'll keep all y'all up to date. After I finished the fuel system I was planning on driving the pig while I worked on everything else. I need to trust this truck as it will be my driver for as long as the 40 is down having body cancer removed.
I knew the ignition was the next job as I noted a strange points type distributor with an old ratty ignitor. I wasn't in a huge hurry to tackle it as the truck ran so well. I was dying to get some time in on it with it running at proper temp and everything building that trust. That wasn't to be.

Just like that, spark was gone. I guess ignition rose to the top of the list. Points looked OK and condenser wasn't shorted. I noted I could start and run for about five minutes, then the heat would kill it. Sure enough classic coil death. I noted someone had bypassed the ballast resistor so the coil was running pretty hot. When I pulled everything apart I noted the coil was puking oil at the top seam. I was surprised when I pulled the distributor as it's a Delco-Remy and I didn't know it was made for/or would run in a Toy.

I found myself in the same spot as a year ago when my FJ40 ignitor died. At that time, I could not find another that wasn't pushing 50 years old, looked like *ss, and was going for $300.00. I coudn't see that, went with a Davis DUI, and haven't looked back. I considered the same for the 55, but called and was told they are out 8 weeks. Crap!

Went back in and repeated all the research from one year ago including Corolla, Corona (available new at $320.00), and mini truck. I even bought some NOS Delco 4-pin HEI ignitors and a heat sink as I was going to default to building my own (I still may). I also still have the three-screw cap 1978 fully electronic distributor that I kept from the 40. I couldn't find a spec on the pickup coil, resistance, but when I manually spin it, I get a small mV signal so I think the distributor is still fine. I have also ordered and am awaiting a rebuilt small cap, vac advance distributor from 4cruisers so I think I'll have two.

As I was pulling my hair out, ToyotaMatt sent up two 1978 ignitors that look in pretty good shape for cheap so I grabbed them. Waiting for US Mail to get 55 running again. A long wait. Tiime for some visual:

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Sitting at #1 tdc on compression waiting for me to decide which distributor I'm going to run. New NDDensos installed. Found in my stash a GR starter and threw that on-what a difference.

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Strange old Delco Remy distributor.

So as I wait for ignition parts, I'm on to prepping the rest of the truck for A/C. Removed all old heater stuff and repaired wiper motor function, thanks to Bill (61twpw). Someone had chopped off the harness end plug and Bill came through. Many thanks!

Built a blank off plate to cover hole from old blower pass through. This will become new bulkhead for A/C and heater lines. I'm going to try and repaint firewall and each inner fender back to white while removing what I can but leaving engine in place. I tried a chemical stripper to try to take the black but it went right on though just like Jim Morrison told it to.

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Cleaning up wires under and behind the dash.

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Old blower blanked off. I'll stop here for now.

A chorus line from the immortal Tom Petty (with help from Stevie Nicks)--"Stop dragging my hog around". I think I hear a Rosanne Roseannadanna joke here. "Oh! Never mind."
 
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First of all, it's blasphemy to play around with Tom Petty lyrics. :eek:

Now that I have that out there, you might need something to depend on besides a 40 and a 55. Great choices, both keepers, but assuming you are still working then then I think I would have a little something newer in the stable.

Hopefully the parts that are underway will fix the problem.
 
WarDamnEagle thanks for that! The daily driver is a 2001 LX470 in pristine condition and I don't need to go anywhere being retired. I was worthless in the workforce four years ago! I'm on the schedule of six Saturdays and a Sunday. Can you believe the "boss" is happy that our vehicles are three LandCruisers. I'm lucky further than the summer is long in south Miss-Sippi!

The "40" needs a body but I would hop in it and drive it anywhere tomorrow. Just can't wait to drive the 55, it has such a different feel from the 40.

The 40 has an H41 and I like to use 1st gear. The consequence of that is people are in such a hurry that they're on my bumper halfway through the intersection. 1st gear doesn't go far!

My best friend John died of brain cancer at the age of 56 a long time ago. We worked in a lab together with the radio on all day. Everytime that song came on we sang along "Stop draggin my hog around" and laughed. Little did I know I would later be drivin' a pig and John wouldn't be here. Lucky and oh so thankful.
 
I am also officially retired as of last Thursday. Feels good so far. Apologies if there was any misunderstanding. I was just going by this sentence:

I need to trust this truck as it wall be my driver for as long as the 40 is down having body cancer removed.

Great to hear there are more modern choices when needed. :cheers:
 
Since retirement, I really don't add many miles as everything is very local now. I haven't put 1000 miles/year on the 40 since. I start and drive it weekly just cause.

We use the 100 to visit the kids back in CO. Its an outstanding vehicle. We loved our 80 series. This vehicle is faster, more powerful, more comfortable, and is way more efficient especially on the highway. I could probably afford to drive whatever is out there. Bought this last year (overpaid) in the height of the crazy and have never second guessed that. One owner, 115K miles, NC vehicle, with all service records from Lexus. That was worth a premium to me.

Congrats on retirement! My wife and I found the freedom of schedule to be the greatest gift in the world.
 
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Parts came yesterday and today was a good day. 4Cruisers built and delivered a small cap, vac advance, fully electronic converted distributor. I scored two ignitor/coil combinations reasonably from ToyotaMatt. So this one is staying stock Toyota for ignition. Set the intial timing at the BB, ticked the key, and away she went.

I drove the pig further, longer, and faster today than any other time in the 3 1/2 years I've had it. That's both good and sad. Filled with fresh gas and cruised up and down the beach highway for one hour. Seems to hot start immediately. I don't have a mechanical water temp gauge, but shut her off in the mid-day heat, waited a minute to restart,--- the gauge climbs immediately to 3/4, then settles right back down to where it runs at 1/2 gauge even sitting at red lights in 90 degrees today. I don't know if that's enough capacity for A/C but I'm going forward to find out.

So I've flushed, rebuilt, and replaced the cooling system, fuel system, and ignition system. Under hood, there are new distributor, ignitor, plugs, coil, carb, water pump, thermostat, fuel pump, fan, hoses, belts, and gear reduction starter.

Just need to adjust valves, refill water with 50/50, and change oil/filter. I'm ready to call a baseline under the hood. I plan to drive her regularly to build some confidence.

It's time to move back inside for POR15, Kilmat, and plugging holes in firewall in prep for A/C.

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I guess today could be called two steps forward and one back. First off, I been driving the pig quite a bit gaining confidence. It starts, runs, and drives very well. Quick update photo of the dash panel. Since mine was trashed anyway, I reused the emblem, bent a new panel, and took the opportunity to provide for modern DIN stereo, and eliminated stock holes for heater controls and lighter. An auxilary panel yet to be mounted below this one under the dash will house new HVAC controls and gauges.

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Yesterday was the first time I needed to drive the pig more than 20 feet so I filled the tank for the first time. Immediately smelled fuel and found this line leaking on passenger side down low. I understand this may have connected to the charcoal canister? I don't have one and really can't see where one would have mounted there. I later traced this line to front passenger corner of tank.
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Plugged it and drove quite a bit. Today, I came back after running in substantial heat and parked in the garage. Came out 30 minutes later to discover fuel leaking out of fuel cap. This started whole new session of reading, and following lines. This is a 1972 but someone installed a 2F so nothing I read fits exactly.

I have this line on the driver's side which I believe goes to atmosphere between the fenders. (Please confirm or correct any of my statements please.)
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I also have two mounting holes nearby which would accept my parts stash canister perfectly. I'm not sure why this pig would "want a driver's side canister when everything I read says it should be on passenger side. So, I followed that driver's side vent line down the left rail to discover some "beautiful" work.

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I'm guessing this is where the old chassis vent system was mated to the 2F. After the double-pinched "Z", this line goes to the output of the check valve near the separator on the driver's side. I can install the canister and take this line to the correct side. I can then take the bottom of the canister out to the "fender vent" connection. Two questions-1) where does the vac side of the canister connect-carb?, air cleaner? 2) What do I do with the plugged line on the passenger side?

Thanks,
 
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I now realize my previous post was the result of not understanding the complete function of the charcoal canister. Let me try and ask again. I get how manifold vacuum is supposed to pull on the tank vent taking those vapors into the manifold when running.

Question(s) 1) What happens when engine is off without vacuum? Do those vapors simply vent through the charcoal to atmosphere?

I have connected the canister as shown below in the lower part of the photo taken from SOR page 168.

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In the upper part of the page, #15 is the fuel supply to the pump. Question #2) Right below that line is another. Is comes up into the engine compartment on the right side. Where does it connect in the engine bay?
 
Question1 answer: I believe the vapor stays in the expansion tank and is suppose to subside with fluctuations of temp and just simply stay put and level off via the venting gas cap.

No2: I don’t quite understand but you basically have two lines from each expansion tank in the rear quarters that run up under the truck to a Tee that turns to a single line near transfer case / trans and the goes up to the charcoal canister.
 
Thanks for the help. Just like the SOR photo, I only have one separator on the driver's side. The check valve is its output which is the line on the driver's side.

The line on the passenger side comes off the tank's front corner of the passenger side and is rigidly plumbed into the passenger side engine bay. There is no crossover or tee. As an aside, despite that line being very high on the tank, any condition of tank fullness will result in that line peeing gas onto the floor under the engine when unplugged. It seems too always be liquid state which doesn't make sense. I would not think that would tee into the output of the separator which is known to be a vapor.

Engine changes and POs thinking they are dismantlng smog all result in unique circumstances. I'm just trying to figure out where that passenger side line is supposed to go.

I now have the canister installed and in a brief drive did not smell any fuel. When I parked it back in the garage, there was no leakage from the gas cap. I may have stopped the smell and excess prressure but I still have a capped line all the way from front to back that is probably filled with fuel. If I come up empty with it's intent, I'll probably cap it at the tank.

Thanks
 
Yes sounds like the later trucks( maybe at the introduction of 2F) they made some changes and I’m not sure I spoke on the right year. I found a year specific emissions factory manual on eBay that’s been helpful for my truck.
 
With a whole lot more crawling under the truck and reading, I think I may have figured out the mysterious fuel line. It's the return line from the carb back to the tank. Several reasons why I say that.

First, inspection of the tank in the front passenger corner reveals the two lines (one to fuel pump and the suspect one) exit the tank side by side at the same height. Next, the carb identifier page indicates the original carb for my year (not the one I have) had a return line. And finally, SOR calls for a fuel return line.

I think I'm ready to call it a fuel return line. That also explains why it pees liquid when uncapped. By the way, why do these two lines come off the tank so high? Is there an internal suction line that pulls from the bottom of the tank?

My guess is my tank previously wasn't vented building pressure forcing gas out that line. I've since properly vented the tank using a canister.

My fix for this line will be to disconnect at the tank and plug it right there. Alternately, should I be investigating using the return line? Can a carb without provision for one be modified to add one? Are there driveability issues to consider without one? I can imagine the reason for it is to regulate the pressure at the needle seat, correct?
 
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Yes you are correct on the reason for a return on a fuel system. It is to easily regulate system pressure.
I looked back and saw your carb. It appears that’s a pre73’ cable pull carb and I don’t believe adaptable to a return.
 
Yeah, carb is a an earlier one. Sometime in 1970 I remember.
 

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