- Thread starter
- #41
The boxes are from a nearby store for free. I didn't consume them all. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it! 
To Lipstick And Beyond (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter GJCruiser
- Start date
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Blastservices
SILVER Star
Throw some vodka on the situation it helps.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Put some Stainless Helicoils in that T-stat housing with SS bolts. Will make life easier in Future!!!!
- Thread starter
- #44
I've never seen one explode like that. Along with the rusty water, its obvious this one didn't receive top care. That's why I'm going through everything.
By the way, this is the first time I have ever used Mark Whatley's muriatic acid boil in the radiator. That does an amazing job!
By the way, this is the first time I have ever used Mark Whatley's muriatic acid boil in the radiator. That does an amazing job!
- Thread starter
- #45
Still trying to replace a water pump and metal fan after second pump arrived in the mail. The first photo shows the old pump and pulley. The distance from the block to the pulley mounting flange is 4 13/16". I ordered the pump and fan shown in the second photo. The vendor told me it was also 4 13/16". Wrong! It's 6 3/16"! This is the exact h*ll I was trying to avoid.
I'm faced with trying to return and source another pump. Alternately, the second photo shows a mockup that indicates I have plenty of room between fan and rad. Can anyone tell me definitively which pulley I would need to look for? As nearly as I can measure, the center or valley of the first pulley sheeve would need to be back 1.375" from the rear of the pulley mounting face. Anyone know a pulley that aligns the belts here? Thank you.
I'm faced with trying to return and source another pump. Alternately, the second photo shows a mockup that indicates I have plenty of room between fan and rad. Can anyone tell me definitively which pulley I would need to look for? As nearly as I can measure, the center or valley of the first pulley sheeve would need to be back 1.375" from the rear of the pulley mounting face. Anyone know a pulley that aligns the belts here? Thank you.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Cross-posted this in FJ40 tech. I'm being told FJ55s were different than 40s and that 55s never had a clutch (I don't have/need one). It appears I need to wait for vendor to try again on Tuesday for a correct "short" pump or I can keep the setup in the second photo and try to source a two groove offset pulley (sounds hard to do).
It sounds like even though I received the "wrong" pump, the long one is the "correct" one due to the direct drive fan. Trying to find deep offset pulley.
It sounds like even though I received the "wrong" pump, the long one is the "correct" one due to the direct drive fan. Trying to find deep offset pulley.
- Thread starter
- #47
Copied this over from FJ40 tech:
A light when off reading your last helpful post. At least I understand how I got here. This is a new-to-me vehicle so all work is that of a PO. What I know is the engine is a 03 or 04/77 block in a 1972 pig. Now I further realize, I removed a pump and pulley intended for a clutch and matching fan. But instead of a Toyota clutch and fan, the metal one was used. The hub on the old metal fan had four radiating mounting holes to compensate.
You are correct. From where I am now, here's how I finally understand my choice. Return pump and fan, keep pulley, then source clutch-type pump, clutch, and fan. Or keep what was sent to me, and source pulley. It boils down to sourcing a unicorn pulley vs. buying more parts to add a clutch.
A light when off reading your last helpful post. At least I understand how I got here. This is a new-to-me vehicle so all work is that of a PO. What I know is the engine is a 03 or 04/77 block in a 1972 pig. Now I further realize, I removed a pump and pulley intended for a clutch and matching fan. But instead of a Toyota clutch and fan, the metal one was used. The hub on the old metal fan had four radiating mounting holes to compensate.
You are correct. From where I am now, here's how I finally understand my choice. Return pump and fan, keep pulley, then source clutch-type pump, clutch, and fan. Or keep what was sent to me, and source pulley. It boils down to sourcing a unicorn pulley vs. buying more parts to add a clutch.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
FJ55’s didn’t have fan clutches until MY1979.
Find a pulley for the 75-78 FJ55 water pump.
Running the later fan clutch water pump, pulley and fan clutch/fan will take up valuable space between fan and radiator. It’s longer OAL.
Find a pulley for the 75-78 FJ55 water pump.
Running the later fan clutch water pump, pulley and fan clutch/fan will take up valuable space between fan and radiator. It’s longer OAL.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
And it’s not a unicorn pulley youre after. 1/‘75 to 8/‘76 FJ40, and 1/‘75 to 12/‘78 FJ55, And lots of non US trucks used the pulley.
- Thread starter
- #50
This beautiful piece of machining arrived today from CVF Racing. Pulley grooves line up perfectly and I'm back reassembling the coolant system. Going to run the long pump with the new Toyota plastic six blade direct drive fan.
- Thread starter
- #51
Began reassembling coolant system when I realized A/C is not going to be ignored. There is no complete A/C kit for a 55 and most know Vintage Air makes at least one for a 40. I'm studying all of the providers (there have been several used on this forum) and realized the system will be purchased ala carte. I decided, regardless of where I source the rest of the system, the compressor bracket needs to come from Vintage Air. It moves the alternator down and puts a Sanden 508 above it in elegance. My rear belt will run like the photo on the right below with my power steering pump in place of the air pump in that photo. My front belt will run the compressor only like in the left side photo.
But the alternator interfered with the coolant recovery bottle which was mounted way low on the fender. I fabbed a bracket to attach it off of the battery bracket. Now its nice and high and tucked out of the way.
Ordered a new Sanden A/C compressor to mount before I resume work as I don't want to remove shroud and belts to install a compressor belt later. This way I'll source and mount both belts now so its done and ready when I pick up the rest of the A/C install.
But the alternator interfered with the coolant recovery bottle which was mounted way low on the fender. I fabbed a bracket to attach it off of the battery bracket. Now its nice and high and tucked out of the way.
Ordered a new Sanden A/C compressor to mount before I resume work as I don't want to remove shroud and belts to install a compressor belt later. This way I'll source and mount both belts now so its done and ready when I pick up the rest of the A/C install.
- Thread starter
- #52
Mounted the A/C compressor, alternator, and fan pulley. I have to give Vintage Air (VA) credit for the attention to detail. Alignment everywhere is very good. Things are in close proximity but they left room to sneak the lower rad. hose up and behind the alternator.
I will run the belts in configuration per their suggestion in post #51 above. They advised to source a 5/8" by 58" belt for the compressor. Coincidentally, both belts are the exact same length. No one here stocks that 5/8" belt so waiting yet again for parts. I believe the reason VA calls out a 5/8" belt is that the more-readily-available 1/2" belt would bottom out in the 2F crank and water pump pulleys.
With the "too wide" Toyota 16mm belt temporarily on the compressor, the front of the compressor is close to the rad. filler neck. I believe (hope) the proper 5/8" belt will settle into the pulley farther and "run" longer. That should adjust the compressor downward and outward toward the passenger side and away from the neck. There is the option to run a 59" belt too, but I didn't want to tip the compressor any further on its side. Sanden states the oil fill hole can run a full 90 degrees to either side of vertical. I'm not close and I don't want to be.
Last two issues before I can finish this job and start it up- I need to change the heater outlet union on the driver's side rear of the head. It would work temporarily but is corroded all the way to the "bell" on the pipe leaving little to clamp. Pulling the valve cover for that. Last big job is the interative process of sliding the shroud and rad. in and out while I determine and remove any interference there. Not looking forward to that job.
I will run the belts in configuration per their suggestion in post #51 above. They advised to source a 5/8" by 58" belt for the compressor. Coincidentally, both belts are the exact same length. No one here stocks that 5/8" belt so waiting yet again for parts. I believe the reason VA calls out a 5/8" belt is that the more-readily-available 1/2" belt would bottom out in the 2F crank and water pump pulleys.
With the "too wide" Toyota 16mm belt temporarily on the compressor, the front of the compressor is close to the rad. filler neck. I believe (hope) the proper 5/8" belt will settle into the pulley farther and "run" longer. That should adjust the compressor downward and outward toward the passenger side and away from the neck. There is the option to run a 59" belt too, but I didn't want to tip the compressor any further on its side. Sanden states the oil fill hole can run a full 90 degrees to either side of vertical. I'm not close and I don't want to be.
Last two issues before I can finish this job and start it up- I need to change the heater outlet union on the driver's side rear of the head. It would work temporarily but is corroded all the way to the "bell" on the pipe leaving little to clamp. Pulling the valve cover for that. Last big job is the interative process of sliding the shroud and rad. in and out while I determine and remove any interference there. Not looking forward to that job.
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- Thread starter
- #53
This one had me going for a while. The first photo shows the rusted heater outlet union I refered to above. Today, I pulled the valve cover to remove that union. Second photo is what I observed under that union in the head. Its solid. When I purchased the pig there was a closed ball valve in the heater line between the firewall and lower rad. hose "tee" near the water pump. Therefore, there was no flow for an unknown amount of time. I gave the plug/obstruction a few gentle raps with a hammer and nail set. It didn't move, flake, or break.
I originally thought I had an obstruction here. I started a long series of questions asking for help. Then, curiosity and a break in the cool led me back out to pull the adjacent water temp senso and reducer. It revealed the same thing.
I cleaned the rust out of both threaded bores. Then, I sent some carb cleaner through a pressurized straw into both holes to observe they communicate. So its not obvious but what I am observing is indeed the two bores into the water jacket. Its not as voluminous as I would have expected. There are just small machined/cast passages from the bores into the jacket. There must be enough room to create the needed pressure and flow. It would be fun to see a cutaway or broken version to study the water jacket- just not mine.
I don't care if you confirm I'm crazy-just also confirm that I'm correct in what I think I see. Thanks.
I originally thought I had an obstruction here. I started a long series of questions asking for help. Then, curiosity and a break in the cool led me back out to pull the adjacent water temp senso and reducer. It revealed the same thing.
I cleaned the rust out of both threaded bores. Then, I sent some carb cleaner through a pressurized straw into both holes to observe they communicate. So its not obvious but what I am observing is indeed the two bores into the water jacket. Its not as voluminous as I would have expected. There are just small machined/cast passages from the bores into the jacket. There must be enough room to create the needed pressure and flow. It would be fun to see a cutaway or broken version to study the water jacket- just not mine.
I don't care if you confirm I'm crazy-just also confirm that I'm correct in what I think I see. Thanks.
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WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Not sure you will gain much by going to 5/8" vs 16mm but maybe. 5/8" is only 0.125mm narrower. I had a heck of a time replacing the way too narrow belts that the PO had installed but I eventually got there after 3 trials.
- Thread starter
- #55
I hear ya. I'm just guessing as to why VA recommends a 5/8" belt. The Sanden clutch pulleys are the narrow variety so I get it there.
Maybe they know what their talking about. I tried putting on a 1/2" wide belt and it obviously fell to the bottom of the crankshaft and WP pulleys. I'm afraid that would wear out quickly destroying the belt. I also feared the 1/2" belt would slip on the crank pulling mainly (for a short time) on the bottom and not sides. Hoping the 5/8" rides correctly on the Toyota parts.
Maybe they know what their talking about. I tried putting on a 1/2" wide belt and it obviously fell to the bottom of the crankshaft and WP pulleys. I'm afraid that would wear out quickly destroying the belt. I also feared the 1/2" belt would slip on the crank pulling mainly (for a short time) on the bottom and not sides. Hoping the 5/8" rides correctly on the Toyota parts.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Maybe they recommend 5/8" vs 16mm because we're in America.
- Thread starter
- #57
This is my what feels like a "lack of progress" update. Replaced the heater output fitting on the back of the head. Acquiring drive belts has been difficult. The crank, water pump, PS pump, and alternator belt uses a B55 (17mm x 58") industrial belt for a good fit. The same belt could be used for the ac compressor. However, the photo shows the close proximity of the Sanden compressor to the radiator filler neck when the compressor is positioned where it would be for that 58" belt. A minor shroud trim would also be required. That belt is also too wide for the Sanden which is sized for a 3/8" or 1/2" wide belt. I'm trying to find a narrower and slightly longer belt. I believe such a belt would grip both narrow (Sanden)and wide (Toyota)pulleys, would seat down in the sheaves a little further, and the length would tip the compressor out a little and away from the radiator neck.
Got stonewalled by local parts stores either not being able to find, order, or deliver such a belt. They're full of reasons why they couldn't do their job. Lying is apparently a job requirement.
Also, I'm not used to using the internet to find everything I need. I miss the days of walking into a parts store and after talking to a guy that has worked there 20+ years, would walk in the back, and come out with what was needed. What I seem to get now is, "Well we ordered it, we don't know what happened." or "We forgot to order it." Rant mode off. (Reading this while editing sure makes me feel old.)
Just yesterday, I determined a good part number to be a Gates TR22578 (19/32" x 58 1/4"). I think that will work. I'll get it ordered online and it will arrive Monday or Tuesday. Sigh--we are heading for a two week supply/repair trip to the CO cabin, so I'll get back to the 55 later in August. Seems such a crime when I'm ten minutes from filling it with water. I just don't want to do work twice if I have to pull everything back out to trim the shroud. I'll wait but I should be driving it.
Please ignore the long heater line in the photo that goes from the lower heater hose tee to the head. That is my temporary "heater delete" so I may drive the pig while I remove the inside stuff in prep for AC. I'll cut that line and both ends will go to a bulkhead where the blower now besides. Also notice the hard line for the oil cooler interferes with the rear of the VA compressor bracket. That went all soft line and higher.
There are cheaper evaporators but the Restomod small unit (Bantam, I think) is about the only one I think fits under the dash. That dual bell crank parking brake takes up a lot of real estate! Till next time.
Got stonewalled by local parts stores either not being able to find, order, or deliver such a belt. They're full of reasons why they couldn't do their job. Lying is apparently a job requirement.
Also, I'm not used to using the internet to find everything I need. I miss the days of walking into a parts store and after talking to a guy that has worked there 20+ years, would walk in the back, and come out with what was needed. What I seem to get now is, "Well we ordered it, we don't know what happened." or "We forgot to order it." Rant mode off. (Reading this while editing sure makes me feel old.)
Just yesterday, I determined a good part number to be a Gates TR22578 (19/32" x 58 1/4"). I think that will work. I'll get it ordered online and it will arrive Monday or Tuesday. Sigh--we are heading for a two week supply/repair trip to the CO cabin, so I'll get back to the 55 later in August. Seems such a crime when I'm ten minutes from filling it with water. I just don't want to do work twice if I have to pull everything back out to trim the shroud. I'll wait but I should be driving it.
Please ignore the long heater line in the photo that goes from the lower heater hose tee to the head. That is my temporary "heater delete" so I may drive the pig while I remove the inside stuff in prep for AC. I'll cut that line and both ends will go to a bulkhead where the blower now besides. Also notice the hard line for the oil cooler interferes with the rear of the VA compressor bracket. That went all soft line and higher.
There are cheaper evaporators but the Restomod small unit (Bantam, I think) is about the only one I think fits under the dash. That dual bell crank parking brake takes up a lot of real estate! Till next time.
Sounds to me like you've got it nailed down right.
- Thread starter
- #59
Hard to believe it almost been one month since the last update. The Gates belt referenced above arrived and was installed. The AC compressor rides about 3/8" behind the fan shroud. Not my preference, but I don't think the motor will trust that far forward. I noted I may shave or shim the Vintage Air mount against the head. That mount runs the belts a tiny bit forward. Any adjustment of the mount will pull the two accessories rearward so for now I'm happy.
Went through countless iterations to trim the fan shroud where needed. Thought I would run the original radiator and keep the spare from the parts truck. It was not to be. The original rad sprung leaks like the final scene in Caddyshack. Actually found a trusted radiator repair shop (not easy these days) who advised the header metal around most of the tubes was too far gone to resolder. A recore quote was $550.00. I decided to run the spare. The pig temp sits in the lower one/third of the temp gauge (don't have a thermometer). The fan will suck your hat off from in front of the truck against the rad. I will run only water until I complete the heater hose connections to a new evaporator.
I removed old heater, blower, ductwork, and controls.
Leaves me with a question. Is this momentary push button switch in the upper left of the dash stock? There weren't any wires attached to follow and the hole looks hand drilled. Thanks.
Went through countless iterations to trim the fan shroud where needed. Thought I would run the original radiator and keep the spare from the parts truck. It was not to be. The original rad sprung leaks like the final scene in Caddyshack. Actually found a trusted radiator repair shop (not easy these days) who advised the header metal around most of the tubes was too far gone to resolder. A recore quote was $550.00. I decided to run the spare. The pig temp sits in the lower one/third of the temp gauge (don't have a thermometer). The fan will suck your hat off from in front of the truck against the rad. I will run only water until I complete the heater hose connections to a new evaporator.
I removed old heater, blower, ductwork, and controls.
Leaves me with a question. Is this momentary push button switch in the upper left of the dash stock? There weren't any wires attached to follow and the hole looks hand drilled. Thanks.
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I've never seen a button like that on a stock dash.
