- Thread starter
- #21
Forgot about the circuit breaker. Thanks for that. I think I have the guides adjusted correctly. I 'm still waiting for Shapeways.
To Lipstick And Beyond
- Thread starter GJCruiser
- Start date
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You can leave the guides loose and run the window up and down and find the best spot they need to be in depending how the glass is fitting against the seal in the upper portion. Then tighten.
- Thread starter
- #23
Good suggestion! They look centered to me but I'll loosen them up and see if there "happy" with their preferred placement.
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- Thread starter
- #24
"Behind the scene" work this past week. Necessary but unfullfilling in ways. There seems so much to do while waiting for Shapeways order to deliver the correct rear window gear. I'm going to want to close up the tailgate so I can drive this pig. While waiting for the gear. I stripped the panels off the doors and prepped everything for POR-15. Applied the degreaser yesterday and metal prep this morning.
I spun my wheels on the internet (I'm an analytic, so I can take a long time to make a decision) before deciding on placing an order for Kilmat. It is supposed to be mostly a sound deadener which is great, but I hope for some thermal insulation from it too. Hopefully, next weekend I can have four doors and tailgate buttoned up.
Photos of "before" application of POR-15.
To create daily driver reliability, I need to baseline all the systems and focus this week was getting parts ordered for the cooling system. That turned out to be harder than planned as I learned the water pump is hard to find. I'm not real sure what pump I have as the 2F engine serial number comes back to a 03/77 or 04/77. The pump is the long one (6/5/8" from block to fan hub) and it's a non-clutch w/ oil cooler type. Spector calls that a 01/75-08/76 but they didn't have one. I thought clutches were the norm by late 76. I probably have a combination of various parts. Cruiseroutfitters came back with one 4/3/16 long.
There's a long offset pulley to compensate. Then there's the metal fan I'd like to replace. Spent a ton of time on the phone and finally learned CCOT has that "aftermarket" pump (I hope its Aisin).
I really don't care if the fan has a clutch or not if the purported less drag yields .023676 more horsepower. I would like to think about going to Vintage Air someday, so I called them and no one there told me I have to have a clutch.
I did think about going to a shorter pump, clutch, new pulley, and fan. What stopped me is that pulleys are hard to come by and expensive. I didn't want to risk buying four of them until the belts lined up. So I'm waiting for the pump but can't order a fan until I see what the bolt pattern looks like on the new pump. (No one could tell me before ordering). I'll need a fan about 16.25" with the "early" or "small" bolt pattern. Tough week.
I really don't know the shape of the radiator as the aftermarket cap is leaking under the hood. I'll clean it up and try the new OEM cap to see if that fixes the mess before tearing the cooling system down. I may bypass the heater(s) when I do this in prep for VintageAir. As parts arrive, I'll be rebuilding the tailgate, inside of doors, and the cooling system.
Photo of long pump and pulley.
Happy Father's Day. Today, I'm remembering travelling to BHCC and back from WI in my 40 pulling a trailer with three pre-teen daughters sometime around 2001. Against my better judgement, they convinced me to go with only a bikini top on the 40. That was an experiment in exposure! Lost a water pump and trailer tire along the way causing us to arrive late for the driver's meeting. Still had a great trip. There was a beginning rockcrawling trail then that hooked me!
I spun my wheels on the internet (I'm an analytic, so I can take a long time to make a decision) before deciding on placing an order for Kilmat. It is supposed to be mostly a sound deadener which is great, but I hope for some thermal insulation from it too. Hopefully, next weekend I can have four doors and tailgate buttoned up.
Photos of "before" application of POR-15.
To create daily driver reliability, I need to baseline all the systems and focus this week was getting parts ordered for the cooling system. That turned out to be harder than planned as I learned the water pump is hard to find. I'm not real sure what pump I have as the 2F engine serial number comes back to a 03/77 or 04/77. The pump is the long one (6/5/8" from block to fan hub) and it's a non-clutch w/ oil cooler type. Spector calls that a 01/75-08/76 but they didn't have one. I thought clutches were the norm by late 76. I probably have a combination of various parts. Cruiseroutfitters came back with one 4/3/16 long.
There's a long offset pulley to compensate. Then there's the metal fan I'd like to replace. Spent a ton of time on the phone and finally learned CCOT has that "aftermarket" pump (I hope its Aisin).
I really don't care if the fan has a clutch or not if the purported less drag yields .023676 more horsepower. I would like to think about going to Vintage Air someday, so I called them and no one there told me I have to have a clutch.
I did think about going to a shorter pump, clutch, new pulley, and fan. What stopped me is that pulleys are hard to come by and expensive. I didn't want to risk buying four of them until the belts lined up. So I'm waiting for the pump but can't order a fan until I see what the bolt pattern looks like on the new pump. (No one could tell me before ordering). I'll need a fan about 16.25" with the "early" or "small" bolt pattern. Tough week.
I really don't know the shape of the radiator as the aftermarket cap is leaking under the hood. I'll clean it up and try the new OEM cap to see if that fixes the mess before tearing the cooling system down. I may bypass the heater(s) when I do this in prep for VintageAir. As parts arrive, I'll be rebuilding the tailgate, inside of doors, and the cooling system.
Photo of long pump and pulley.
Happy Father's Day. Today, I'm remembering travelling to BHCC and back from WI in my 40 pulling a trailer with three pre-teen daughters sometime around 2001. Against my better judgement, they convinced me to go with only a bikini top on the 40. That was an experiment in exposure! Lost a water pump and trailer tire along the way causing us to arrive late for the driver's meeting. Still had a great trip. There was a beginning rockcrawling trail then that hooked me!
The flange that the fan bolts to is removeable with a simple puller. Swap flanges. Run either fan on any waterpump.
Evan, @fj55-100 is good people!
AFAIK, shapeways is just a 3rd party printer. They probably have no idea WTF the parts they print and ship even are, no idea of application, etc. They are simply a 3rd party fulfillment outfit.
@GJCruiser - I noticed front bucket seats in your piggie. They look great and seem to match the rear seat covering. Are those FJ40 transplanted seats? A few more pictures of the seats (and mounts) would be appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #28
I'm temporarily in "tailgate jail" so its time for an update. I'd call my tailgate adventure something else but I'm trying to cut down on my swearing. I'll come back to that but first some replies.
Pighead- I knew the flange can be pulled and I might need to do that if I can't find a plastic fan that fits the old style pump. I'm so ready to baseline under the hood but I'm stuck on the tailgate !@#$%^&*.
PabloCruise- Evan clued me when I called him. I just needed to figure out how to order the right gear. He did that and offered to buy the "wrong" ones back from me. Extremely helpful.
xtremeVA- I believe they are FJ40 seats. The pig came that way. They are in incredible shape, obviously redone. I owned this pig for 3 1/2 years before I noticed the driver's seat is scuffed and lightly torn where a driver must have had something in his right cheek pocket. They do match the rear seats well. I don't mind the black on the seats but I hate it on the headliner. I think I'm learning that to change the headliner, I have to remove windshield, rear fixed glass, and upper tailgate w/s which I haven't purchased yet. If my assumptions are correct, then that seems like a job far down the road.
Back to the seats, I haven't decided if I want to keep the fronts or not. If my plans for a daily driver pan out, I think of going more to something like modern buckets with integrated shoulder belts for more safety.
My tailgate h*ll. Disassembled, cleaned, POR-15ed, and Kilmated the tailgate. For reference, I have two tailgate mechanisms (one from the white parts track), both had broken gears, so I ordered two. The new shapeways gears arrived and I replaced both using white lithium grease. The mechanism from the truck remained frozen with high current draw. I assumed the motor was shorted and installed the "spare". This mechanism appears to show a slight mistime of the quadrant arms compared to the other. The driver's side appears to be about 3/8" lower. The new aftermarket weatherstrip is a little thicker than the old stock w/s. I fear one or both of those conditions is causing the glass to bind and the motor to drag. I have the tailgate saftey switch jumpered so I can work with the gate down. If you have been inside of this, you know you don't get full travel this way as the glass lowers to cover the terminal strip and wires. I even thought of extending test wires outside the gate.
I found an old dried piece of window channel in my stash and replaced the nice new one. There is more room for the glass to slide. I haven't figured out how to retime the quadrant arms. My idea to correct the crooked glass was to reinstall the mechanism that came out by swapping motors --good one for bad. Had both mechanisms on the bench, swapped motors and discovered the frozen conditon stayed with the original mechanism --WTF? It wasn't the motor at all but I overtightened the gearbox cover causing the bind! Reinstall back in tailgate. This summary although growing long is warp speed compared to real world as this has taken days of actual work now.
I believe the tailgate slides better now but I've got to prove that before I can pull the truck out of the garage while I take the cooling system down. I want to get to that and want to dump the fluid outside the garage. Need to have a closed tailgate window in case it ever rains here again, which it will the first night the truck is outside with the back glass down.
Well, I learned that the dashboard switch works in the down position but not up. I either have a bad switch or open wire back to tailgate. Swell. Forgot to mention- I don't have a key for the tailgate keyswitch! I can't close it from outside either. Quit for another night. So that I am able to close the garage door overnight, I have been jumpering power onto the terminal strip and lowering the glass just until the glass is about to cover the terminal strip. Then I carefully close the tailgate against the first "click" so as not to smash the glass against the outside of channel where it belongs on the inside when things are correct. I've been storing the tailgate in this condition every night for a week.
This morning I dug out the spare tailgate keyswitch for a test. I have no continuity ever. The switch only rotates a few degrees in either direction from twelve o'clock so I have no idea if I have a mechanical problem or an electrical one. I've never seen one operate.
So I go to open the tailgate to inspect the switch there and the tailgate will not come down! The starwheel latches appear to be stuck and pulling on the handle does nothing. The tailgate will go in and out about 1/2 inch but won't unlatch. Remember, I can't "slam" it as the glass is halfway up/down outside of its normal channel when it's up correctly. I crawled inside the back and pulled on both latch wires. Can't get the tailgate to release. Nearly 100 degrees and 90% humidity outside-can't tell you what it was inside the back. This can't be anymore fun.
Anyone know how to open a tailgate? Useless photo of starwheel inside top left of gate from outside.
Pighead- I knew the flange can be pulled and I might need to do that if I can't find a plastic fan that fits the old style pump. I'm so ready to baseline under the hood but I'm stuck on the tailgate !@#$%^&*.
PabloCruise- Evan clued me when I called him. I just needed to figure out how to order the right gear. He did that and offered to buy the "wrong" ones back from me. Extremely helpful.
xtremeVA- I believe they are FJ40 seats. The pig came that way. They are in incredible shape, obviously redone. I owned this pig for 3 1/2 years before I noticed the driver's seat is scuffed and lightly torn where a driver must have had something in his right cheek pocket. They do match the rear seats well. I don't mind the black on the seats but I hate it on the headliner. I think I'm learning that to change the headliner, I have to remove windshield, rear fixed glass, and upper tailgate w/s which I haven't purchased yet. If my assumptions are correct, then that seems like a job far down the road.
Back to the seats, I haven't decided if I want to keep the fronts or not. If my plans for a daily driver pan out, I think of going more to something like modern buckets with integrated shoulder belts for more safety.
My tailgate h*ll. Disassembled, cleaned, POR-15ed, and Kilmated the tailgate. For reference, I have two tailgate mechanisms (one from the white parts track), both had broken gears, so I ordered two. The new shapeways gears arrived and I replaced both using white lithium grease. The mechanism from the truck remained frozen with high current draw. I assumed the motor was shorted and installed the "spare". This mechanism appears to show a slight mistime of the quadrant arms compared to the other. The driver's side appears to be about 3/8" lower. The new aftermarket weatherstrip is a little thicker than the old stock w/s. I fear one or both of those conditions is causing the glass to bind and the motor to drag. I have the tailgate saftey switch jumpered so I can work with the gate down. If you have been inside of this, you know you don't get full travel this way as the glass lowers to cover the terminal strip and wires. I even thought of extending test wires outside the gate.
I found an old dried piece of window channel in my stash and replaced the nice new one. There is more room for the glass to slide. I haven't figured out how to retime the quadrant arms. My idea to correct the crooked glass was to reinstall the mechanism that came out by swapping motors --good one for bad. Had both mechanisms on the bench, swapped motors and discovered the frozen conditon stayed with the original mechanism --WTF? It wasn't the motor at all but I overtightened the gearbox cover causing the bind! Reinstall back in tailgate. This summary although growing long is warp speed compared to real world as this has taken days of actual work now.
I believe the tailgate slides better now but I've got to prove that before I can pull the truck out of the garage while I take the cooling system down. I want to get to that and want to dump the fluid outside the garage. Need to have a closed tailgate window in case it ever rains here again, which it will the first night the truck is outside with the back glass down.
Well, I learned that the dashboard switch works in the down position but not up. I either have a bad switch or open wire back to tailgate. Swell. Forgot to mention- I don't have a key for the tailgate keyswitch! I can't close it from outside either. Quit for another night. So that I am able to close the garage door overnight, I have been jumpering power onto the terminal strip and lowering the glass just until the glass is about to cover the terminal strip. Then I carefully close the tailgate against the first "click" so as not to smash the glass against the outside of channel where it belongs on the inside when things are correct. I've been storing the tailgate in this condition every night for a week.
This morning I dug out the spare tailgate keyswitch for a test. I have no continuity ever. The switch only rotates a few degrees in either direction from twelve o'clock so I have no idea if I have a mechanical problem or an electrical one. I've never seen one operate.
So I go to open the tailgate to inspect the switch there and the tailgate will not come down! The starwheel latches appear to be stuck and pulling on the handle does nothing. The tailgate will go in and out about 1/2 inch but won't unlatch. Remember, I can't "slam" it as the glass is halfway up/down outside of its normal channel when it's up correctly. I crawled inside the back and pulled on both latch wires. Can't get the tailgate to release. Nearly 100 degrees and 90% humidity outside-can't tell you what it was inside the back. This can't be anymore fun.
Anyone know how to open a tailgate? Useless photo of starwheel inside top left of gate from outside.
- Thread starter
- #29
Fit of new gear, POR-15, and Kilmat.
- Thread starter
- #30
A few of the seats.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thinking more about the trying to open the tailgate. I hadn't yet reconnected the power on last go around. I'm thinking about going back inside truck and connecting long wires to the motor. Then if I'm allowed, I could lower the tailgate all the way. Perhaps then I could "slam" or completely close tailgate without worrying about the glass. Would that allow latch mechanism to exorcise itself of this "stuck" condition? Having brought out external wires would allow me to then raise the glass if I ever get tailgate back down. My fear is that I've never operated the glass through a full stroke.
This is normal for the switch. You said you tried pulling both rods from the inside and the tailgate didn't release? There is a small safety lever that needs to have the window totally down before the handle will work, maybe try disconnecting that lever or spring and see what happens.
Here's a good thread to read through....
Rear window article available from Gary S
I was digging through the computer at work yesterday and came across the file with all the stuff from my article years ago In Toyota Trails about rear window operation and stuff on the FJ55. I'd be glad to send it in to Mud to have listed in the tech section but don't know how to go about it...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- Thread starter
- #33
Ron,
If that limited motion from the keyswitch is normal, then I have an internal switch problem. I see there are screws on the back. I'll look inside the switch.
Yeah I pulled both rods from inside and nothing released. I've been throught that article ten times-I'll go there again and study the photos. I don't remember a mechanical safety lever. Thank you
If that limited motion from the keyswitch is normal, then I have an internal switch problem. I see there are screws on the back. I'll look inside the switch.
Yeah I pulled both rods from inside and nothing released. I've been throught that article ten times-I'll go there again and study the photos. I don't remember a mechanical safety lever. Thank you
- Thread starter
- #34
It's official- I'm an idiot. But I got the tailgate open. Ron, you made me go back and reread the entire article and thread again. It hit me that for the first time this morning I could not open the tailgate and for the first time yesterday I hooked up that little spring, lever, dogleg combination! Does that prevent the tailgate handle from operating if the window is down? I can't see how it works as its connected under the regulator. In any event, I popped the spring end off with a needlenose and the tailgate unlatched! Thank you again.
Within maybe 1/2 of the normal window travel I get fairly smooth operation with up being a little faster than down. Thats jumping 12V directly on to the terminal board.
I may be down to two issues remaining: 1) getting dashboard switch to go up, and 2) fixing, then swapping keyswitch in tailgate.
Within maybe 1/2 of the normal window travel I get fairly smooth operation with up being a little faster than down. Thats jumping 12V directly on to the terminal board.
I may be down to two issues remaining: 1) getting dashboard switch to go up, and 2) fixing, then swapping keyswitch in tailgate.
The window has to come down all the way pushing that lever down allowing the handle to operate and pull those two rods in (if that makes any sense). I also think you have the two geared arms, that raise the window, timed wrong. They need to be 4 or 5 teeth offset so the window goes up straight. Someone will post a picture of the correct location of gears. If the arms are not set right the window will bind in the tracks.
EDIT... You're no idiot, just going through the tribulations of learning how screwed up the Japanese engineers were, in my opinion.
Have a joke about that. Remind me at the Pig Party. Not suitable for posting.
- Thread starter
- #37
Well, a good night with a celebratory beer. The tailgate goes up and down with a rebuilt tailgate keyswitch.
Summary-I never had a key for the tailgate. Had a spare keyswitch with key from the parts truck. Today, I learned the spare did not function. I took it apart to observe it had exploded internally. From what I saw, it was hard to figure out exactly how it is supposed to work. Well, now that I can lower the tailgate, I removed the regulator once more (I've done this so many times, I now believe I could do it on the side of the road in the dark in a snowstorn without a flashlight) to expose and extract the keyswitch. I opened it and used its components to rebuild the spare one for which I had a key.
I did not take photos but it kind of goes like this. The key rotates a round metal shaft with two flats. Riding over that shaft is a plastic rotor with a spring loaded pin (like a distributor center conductor) that pushes the rocker.
I'm not sure I have a timing problem with the regulator arms or not. I will study them. I operated the window via the tailgate key up and down two or three times before closing the tailgate and raising the glass up into the upper body channel. I have no weatherstripping there yet. The tailgate moves well and faster than I would have thought. Mine goes up a little faster than down. I have a rubber wiper on the outside top of the tailgate wedged down into the joint against the glass that may be contributing. (SloCruisers told me that rubber piece should not be there.)
I also need to debug the "no up from dashboard" switch condition.
I will come back to the tailgate to complete all this shortly. Tomorrow, I'm going to pull the truck out of the garage without fear of it raining in so I can dump the coolant without puking all over the garage floor. Then I'll remove the coolant components.
I agree that many things on this truck were crudely designed. Thanks for allowing me to share my crazy. Resting happily tonight.
Summary-I never had a key for the tailgate. Had a spare keyswitch with key from the parts truck. Today, I learned the spare did not function. I took it apart to observe it had exploded internally. From what I saw, it was hard to figure out exactly how it is supposed to work. Well, now that I can lower the tailgate, I removed the regulator once more (I've done this so many times, I now believe I could do it on the side of the road in the dark in a snowstorn without a flashlight) to expose and extract the keyswitch. I opened it and used its components to rebuild the spare one for which I had a key.
I did not take photos but it kind of goes like this. The key rotates a round metal shaft with two flats. Riding over that shaft is a plastic rotor with a spring loaded pin (like a distributor center conductor) that pushes the rocker.
I'm not sure I have a timing problem with the regulator arms or not. I will study them. I operated the window via the tailgate key up and down two or three times before closing the tailgate and raising the glass up into the upper body channel. I have no weatherstripping there yet. The tailgate moves well and faster than I would have thought. Mine goes up a little faster than down. I have a rubber wiper on the outside top of the tailgate wedged down into the joint against the glass that may be contributing. (SloCruisers told me that rubber piece should not be there.)
I also need to debug the "no up from dashboard" switch condition.
I will come back to the tailgate to complete all this shortly. Tomorrow, I'm going to pull the truck out of the garage without fear of it raining in so I can dump the coolant without puking all over the garage floor. Then I'll remove the coolant components.
I agree that many things on this truck were crudely designed. Thanks for allowing me to share my crazy. Resting happily tonight.
Great end to the day, it started out a rough one.
- Thread starter
- #39
Began tearing apart the cooling system to baseline everything there. This is a reminder to perform such work after one buys a vehicle. I've driven this vehicle maybe 20 miles in the 3 1/2 years I've owned it (I can explain that later) and I noticed every time the temp gauge barely moved. As I disassembled, I noted I could look into the large port of the water outlet and view a really crooked thermostat. Huh? Pulled the two halves of the thermostat housing apart to observe the thermostat had imploded into the upper housing. I edited this post as I originally thought the thermostat was upside down. Then I studied it a little more. You can see where one of the assembly straps had let loose allowing the spring and plug to explode pushing one side of the thermostat up. I had to destroy it to remove it from the top cover. That baby didn't want to come out. Luckily there are few parts and they were large enough to stay contained witin the housing.
Also take a look at the bottom radiator hose where it meets the water pump. You can see where someone put two clamps on it, but I have no idea how that wasn't puking. Glad I never took this far from home.
Lastly, the above photos show my big surprise of the day. I hope you can see in the first of the last three photos, how through the mud, blood, and beer I thought I had a "rare" long nose water pump and deep offset pulley. (Remember my view was before teardown and was obscured by all the crud. Obviously I hadn't cleaned and painted the pulley yet either). Well to my surprise I have the standard, short pump with newer bolt pattern. The short pulley was between the pump flange and the hub that was part of the metal fan!. Check out the hack job on the back of the fan hub to get it to go over the pump nose. So I ordered in the wrong parts, returned them, paid the restock fee, and am waiting for new pump and fan. At least now I know I can get a plastic fan in there.
Also take a look at the bottom radiator hose where it meets the water pump. You can see where someone put two clamps on it, but I have no idea how that wasn't puking. Glad I never took this far from home.
Lastly, the above photos show my big surprise of the day. I hope you can see in the first of the last three photos, how through the mud, blood, and beer I thought I had a "rare" long nose water pump and deep offset pulley. (Remember my view was before teardown and was obscured by all the crud. Obviously I hadn't cleaned and painted the pulley yet either). Well to my surprise I have the standard, short pump with newer bolt pattern. The short pulley was between the pump flange and the hub that was part of the metal fan!. Check out the hack job on the back of the fan hub to get it to go over the pump nose. So I ordered in the wrong parts, returned them, paid the restock fee, and am waiting for new pump and fan. At least now I know I can get a plastic fan in there.
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Opened that box of vodka yet?
