To Line-X or Not? (1 Viewer)

[PeterC]

I have an 80 BJ41 with a little rust that I am in the process of removing.
I have read that some people Line-X or Rhino line the interior of their cruisers.
Is there a downside to this?
Do you do the entire interior?
It should protect the interior of the vehicle but does the rust just attack from the underside? Is it all for naught?
Thanks in advance for your ideas and opinions.

Peter

 

[Leaping Deer]

A lot fo people go this route or similar.

Down Sides:
A pain to take off if you later decide.
There have been problems with fading.

Personally I am planning on doing my tub.

 

[PScottBx]

Go for it.

My plan as well.

Good luck
Scott

 

[Volunteer]

I don't see a downside. I did my first cruiser that way during the frame off and I plan to do it again. Its nice to know you can completely hose out the inside of your cruiser without worrying about the water getting to the metal and causing rust spots. Now you can get that stuff in all kind of colors which is great. It also serves as a sound deading barrier.

 

[Coolerman]

Yep! Durabak now offers a Desert Sand Color! I ordered a gallon this morning...

 

[Colorado Boy-74-FJ40]

Did mine this summer, turned out great
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=97535

 

[dbarrett]

Got mine for free from a rhino liner dealer in Charlotte that wanted to show jeep owners he could do it. I like the noise/vibration reduction that it provides. Plus the hose out factor with my lab is a big bonus.

 

[MTPCRUISER]

The only downside I see is the potential impact to resale value if you have a stock or near stock cruiser. If you're wheeling a lot and throwing mud around, it's invaluable.

As for rust eating through from below, it's always a possibility.

 

[VTFJ40]

Do it.

Have Line-x in my truck bed and it's great.

Have PO applied Durabak in the 40 and if it ever gets a frame off it, having it Line-xed will be on the list.

 

[Nomis]

In the end it's your truck - do what you want. I wouldn't do it personally as I'm doing some sheet metal repairs and don't want to cover up all my hard work. Plus, the resale value factor as well. Any time I see diamond plate or a spray in liner I always wonder what the owner is trying to hide under there. . .

 

[UNO_RACING]

I was considering the line-x, but I elected to paint the interior. Although line-x is a great product it fades, catches dirt and is a PITA to keep clean. I've decided to use sound det material and rubber mats.

 

[Stumpalama]

Do it!
Inside and out... I just used durabak roll/brush-on, but it's 10x's better on the underside than the stock rust enhancer.
It's nice on the inside, it gives a sense of security that your rig won't rust out after all the hard work put in restoring a steel tub.
You can also Have Rhino Lining tinted to (closely) match your paint... THAT would have been sweet, if'n I had the cash at the time, that's what I would have done.
I did my front fenders and the firewall too. Nice and quiet and cooler, well, not as warm.
Any way you go, Good luck.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Did mine this summer, turned out great
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=97535

Hey Colorado -
I thought you had some trouble with the Durabak sticking and peeling later?

 

[mikedickbek]

PO did a crappy home job. It's peeling and rusting underneath it. I cant' wait to sandblast that crap out and have it done profesionally. If I were you I wouldn't skimp on the home kits... get it done by someone that knows how to do it properly.

 

[llih]

Durabak also has a smooth product. Wish I had used the smooth. The rough is like laying on a rasp when working under the dash

As with most everything prep is the key. Durabac when applied correctly sticks well and has good durability. Just try to remove it. Of course it's not line-x, but you can do the inside of your tub for less than $200.00

 

[Coolerman]

Durabak also has a smooth product. Wish I had used the smooth. The rough is like laying on a rasp when working under the dash

As with most everything prep is the key. Durabac when applied correctly sticks well and has good durability. Just try to remove it. Of course it's not line-x, but you can do the inside of your tub for less than $200.00

A gallon is $119 for the sand color. You saying I'll need more than a gallon to do the inside of my tub? I plan on doing everything up to the tub rail, up under the dash, the tool box inside and out but not the doors. I wonder if I could change my order to get the smooth? I'm going to try to call then right now...

Edit: Nope! Already processed the order....

 

[Colorado Boy-74-FJ40]

nope

Hey Colorado -
I thought you had some trouble with the Durabak sticking and peeling later?

I just didn't put it on thick enough. I plan to shoot it about 1/8 thick this summer. I already have the hard prep work done from the first time I did it. I just have to take out the seats tape and shoot!

 

[llih]

In the less than $200.00 I also figured xylene, tape, shipping, masking and sand paper. I purchased my Duraback from https://www.newlinesafety.com. You would also need an undercoating gun if you don't have one and want to spray it. The smooth stuff cost's more ($15.00). They have a guide for application here:
https://www.newlinesafety.com/content/view/43/77/

A gallon will put 2 coats on the interior tub.

I thought I would post this for those wishing to re-coat the Durabak rough with a coat of smooth Durabak. I asked the Newlinesafety folks and here is what they sent me.

Just clean it, if it needs to be pressure washed, do it. Non residue soap.
Then get some white painters rags, pint of xylene, gloves and eye wear to
match the xylene. When the bed is dry from cleaning, fold rags into
squares, wet a rag very wet, but not dripping, and wipe bed, fold the rag
into itself, and wipe again. Repeat this until you have wiped the bed so
the white rags stay white. Now just apply the smooth with a roller, brush
or spray. The xylene will clean the old Durabak, and soften it, so when you
apply the smooth, you can get a good chemical bond. So clean, wipe with
xylene, and apply Durabak. You want the bed to be dry before you wipe it
with the xylene, but you want to apply the smooth to the bed as soon as you
can after wiping the bed.

 

[toyo40]

i had the entire inside of my 74 fj40 line X'd. its been great. Easy to clean and very durable.

 

[Coolerman]

In the less than $200.00 I also figured xylene, tape, shipping, masking and sand paper. I purchased my Duraback from https://www.newlinesafety.com. You would also need an undercoating gun if you don't have one and want to spray it. The smooth stuff cost's more ($15.00). They have a guide for application here:
https://www.newlinesafety.com/content/view/43/77/

A gallon will put 2 coats on the interior tub.

I thought I would post this for those wishing to re-coat the Durabak rough with a coat of smooth Durabak. I asked the Newlinesafety folks and here is what they sent me.

Just clean it, if it needs to be pressure washed, do it. Non residue soap.
Then get some white painters rags, pint of xylene, gloves and eye wear to
match the xylene. When the bed is dry from cleaning, fold rags into
squares, wet a rag very wet, but not dripping, and wipe bed, fold the rag
into itself, and wipe again. Repeat this until you have wiped the bed so
the white rags stay white. Now just apply the smooth with a roller, brush
or spray. The xylene will clean the old Durabak, and soften it, so when you
apply the smooth, you can get a good chemical bond. So clean, wipe with
xylene, and apply Durabak. You want the bed to be dry before you wipe it
with the xylene, but you want to apply the smooth to the bed as soon as you
can after wiping the bed.

Thanks! I was a bit worried there! Great info for the archives.

I'm about two weeks out from applying mine. Ran into a small snag with my tub rail.
I still have to get an under coat gun. Harbor Freight seems to no longer carry one and the local Auto Zone Out is like, Huh?