Timing Belt for Dummies writeup (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottm
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2001LC
SILVER Star
If that's the orange/reddish Toyota FIPG, it's transfer case sealant. Used on transfer case and transmission.
I recall when you busted that one.
I too have seen where dealerships glued in O-ring. Very bad practice, which "almost always" traps coolant, causes pitting and leaks.
Shops also often use FIPG 102/103 oil in place of 1282B. Another very bad practice. Why would they; Well, either they don't read the FSM, which clearly states 1282B sealant, or just don't want to spend the extra for the very pricy FIPG 1282B
I've also seen (from east coast Dealership (in rust belt)), where they've greased the O-ring for assemble. That seem to work well. Me, I just use FSM method which is dish soap (Dove) & water. I keep a spray bottle with dish soap & water in the shop, works well!
Rubber mallet is only tool I use to remove water inlet housing. Sometimes these, especially when improperly installed, really takes a lot of hammer blows to free them. Anything other than rubber, will damage the water inlet for sure!
Seems you got all taken care of. Good job. Kind fun isn't it.
I'll just reiterate one thing: That's where the crank & oil sending wire housing is routed. It tucks in before/behind fan bracket.
You can see the wire here to the right, routing down and attached to crank sensor. The bolt loosely fit there right of wire housing, is one of the fan brackets lower bolts.
Wrong routing seen here, where wire housing routed in front of fan bracket. Which then may rubbing on drive belt, cutting through to wire(s)
This one which was improperly (in front of fan bracket just tucked in) routed, wires did rub on drive belt. This can result in a no start condition (crank wire cut) or faulty oil press reading on dash.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
This is definitely fun!Shops also often use FIPG 102/103 oil in place of 1282B. Another very bad practice. Why would they; Well, either they don't read the FSM, which clearly states 1282B sealant, or just don't want to spend the extra for the very pricy FIPG 1282B
Seems you got all taken care of. Good job. Kind fun isn't it.
Thank you for showing me where to route the wiring correctly. I do not want to create no-start condition!
Question - what is the difference between 1282B and 102/103?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
More questions!
I went to pick up hoses at the dealer today. The 2 short little hoses for the oil cooler look correct.
Then there is the top hose for the oil cooler...
PartSouq called for 15777-50030 - Hose, Oil Cooler, so that is what we ordered.
In trying to get the hose that goes from the throttle body to the front coolant bypass hose, we ended up ordering 16295-50060 - Hose, Water By-Pass, No. 7. This is not the hose that goes to front coolant bypass pipe, but it does look like it might be the hose that goes from the throttle body to the oil cooler pipe.
Help!
I can return the unused hose if it is still in the bag.
Any guidance on how to confirm? The Throttle body does not have another port for an additional coolant hose. It only has ports for oil cooler, coolant by-pass, and PCV.
I will peel the old one off the TB and inspect as well.
I went to pick up hoses at the dealer today. The 2 short little hoses for the oil cooler look correct.
Then there is the top hose for the oil cooler...
PartSouq called for 15777-50030 - Hose, Oil Cooler, so that is what we ordered.
In trying to get the hose that goes from the throttle body to the front coolant bypass hose, we ended up ordering 16295-50060 - Hose, Water By-Pass, No. 7. This is not the hose that goes to front coolant bypass pipe, but it does look like it might be the hose that goes from the throttle body to the oil cooler pipe.
Help!
I can return the unused hose if it is still in the bag.
Any guidance on how to confirm? The Throttle body does not have another port for an additional coolant hose. It only has ports for oil cooler, coolant by-pass, and PCV.
I will peel the old one off the TB and inspect as well.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Trick to removing water inlet, is a rubber mallet. I've had some glued in and mallet has works every time (knock on wood)
I install timing belt tensioner, after T-belt and both it's pulleys installed and torqued in. I then rotor crank 720 degrees and check that timing marks (hard marks) are dead on. Which tensioner needs to be in for test. (Note: belt marks will not line up again, once crank turned). I use hard marks of crank sprocket and on oil pump housing.
View attachment 2820841
Note also; cam timing marks are the straight lines, not the "T".
Crank hard marks, posting here again.
View attachment 2820832
BTW: I set crank and cams marks dead on, before installing T- belt. Not the ~50 degrees. But either way works just fine.
Then: Lower cover & harmonic balance (crank pulley) along with the little plastic wedge and it's plastic gasket/seal.
Then: Fan bracket and work my way to drive belt tensioner as lower covers (plastic) are installed as I go..
Alternator & Vane pump.
3 Upper covers.
Oil cooler pipe and hoses
Fan clutch assembly & radiator shroud
Drive belt idler & belt.
Then water bypass joint front (if off), water inlet and thermostat & cap and hoses.
Coolant after FIPG 1282B set up, which FSM states as 20 minutes. I wait much longer before adding coolant (last)
BTW: Fuel line need not be removed, to R&R water bypass front. I just remove throttle body and slide the fuel line clamp after removing it's bolt.
Going back to this helpful post to keep me on track!
Reassembly: (after water pump)
- I install timing belt tensioner, after T-belt and both it's pulleys installed and torqued in. I then rotor crank 720 degrees and check that timing marks (hard marks) are dead on. Which tensioner needs to be in for test. (Note: belt marks will not line up again, once crank turned). I use hard marks of crank sprocket and on oil pump housing. BTW: I set crank and cams marks dead on, before installing T- belt. Not the ~50 degrees. But either way works just fine.
- Lower cover & harmonic balance (crank pulley) along with the little plastic wedge and it's plastic gasket/seal. (Note - Reluctor goes on 1st, before cover)
- Lay wiring to go behind fan bracket
- Fan bracket and work my way to drive belt tensioner as lower covers (plastic) are installed as I go..
- Alternator & Vane pump.
- 3 Upper covers.
- Oil cooler pipe and hoses
- Fan clutch assembly & radiator shroud
- Drive belt idler & belt.
- Then water bypass joint front (if off), water inlet and thermostat & cap and hoses.
- Coolant after FIPG 1282B set up, which FSM states as 20 minutes. I wait much longer before adding coolant (last)
Last edited:
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Thanks!
So you got the 15777-50030 for your '99 LX and it fit.
I wonder where the heck that 16295-50060 goes on our trucks?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Another question - I did some more work last night - put the reluctor ring, front cover, crank pulley and crank bolt on.
I thought I would turn the engine over a few more times. So I went to put it in N with the shifter interlock bypass (battery is out), and as I was moving the shifter into N, it occurred to me that I don't think I put it in N the night before when I installed the tensioner and turned it over.
Is this possible? If I put the truck in N, and then removed the battery, will the transmission go into P?
Or did I damage the transmission by turning it over while the tranny was in P?
Thanks for your help!
I thought I would turn the engine over a few more times. So I went to put it in N with the shifter interlock bypass (battery is out), and as I was moving the shifter into N, it occurred to me that I don't think I put it in N the night before when I installed the tensioner and turned it over.
Is this possible? If I put the truck in N, and then removed the battery, will the transmission go into P?
Or did I damage the transmission by turning it over while the tranny was in P?
Thanks for your help!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
And pictures, just because...
I wanted to clean up the covers, so I put them in the dishwasher to clean. The
got home before they were finished!!!
I wanted to clean up the covers, so I put them in the dishwasher to clean. The
got home before they were finished!!!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I took some pictures of the bracket you have to bend to move to get the fan bracket off - mentioned earlier in this thread by @scottm who credits @spressomon :
Here is the bracket in its normal shape:
Here it is after I bent it just enough to get the fan bracket off:
Here is the bracket in its normal shape:
Here it is after I bent it just enough to get the fan bracket off:
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
One more picture for the morning...
Here is the fan bracket with the 2 bolts that come in from the driver side. These must be removed in order to remove the fan bracket. These bolts are 2 of the 3 mounting bolts for the AC compressor.
It felt like it was going to be difficult to remove these bolts, so I just left them in place in the AC compressor body. After I removed the fan bracket, they both fell out.
The longer bolt goes up top, the shorter bolt underneath the AC compressor.
Here is the fan bracket with the 2 bolts that come in from the driver side. These must be removed in order to remove the fan bracket. These bolts are 2 of the 3 mounting bolts for the AC compressor.
It felt like it was going to be difficult to remove these bolts, so I just left them in place in the AC compressor body. After I removed the fan bracket, they both fell out.
The longer bolt goes up top, the shorter bolt underneath the AC compressor.
Yes Sir, it is correct for your vehicle and mine.
That would be the water bypass hose at the throttle body.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Speaking of things falling off/out, there is a spacer washer that sits behind the timing belt tensioner pulley.
When I removed the t-belt tensioner pulley, this washer/spacer stayed behind for a moment, and then fell off. I heard it hit the driveway, so I looked under the truck and it was rolling away! I went to the back of the truck just in time as it rolled out from underneath.
Had I not heard this fall off, it would have rolled down the driveway and out into the street!
Do not lose this:
When I removed the t-belt tensioner pulley, this washer/spacer stayed behind for a moment, and then fell off. I heard it hit the driveway, so I looked under the truck and it was rolling away! I went to the back of the truck just in time as it rolled out from underneath.
Had I not heard this fall off, it would have rolled down the driveway and out into the street!
Do not lose this:
Last edited:
You're good. Park and Neutral are essentially the same thing except 'park' uses the parking pawl and won't let the vehicle move.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
?Where? My throttle body only has provisions for PCV hose, oil cooler, and the smaller hose that goes to the bypass pipe.
16295-50060 is much larger than that hose that goes to the bypass pipe:
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Ah, but it does let the engine turn - d'oh!
I spend most of my time w/ manual trans vehicles - must be in N to spin the engine over.
Thanks!
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I think the hose going from front coolant bypass pipe to throttle body is 16261-50090:
2001LC
SILVER Star
1282B is specific for coolant/water and very pricy. It is what FSM calls for on water housing inlet to water pump.
Many use 102 or 103 in place of 1282B, why because cheaper. But it is not best practice.
I think the FIPG 103 is just the newer FIPG 102, which are for oil. Like oil pan pre 04 or any FIPG oil seal area, where FIPG is required by FSM.
A third is transaxle/transmission which is orangish/redish.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Sorry I've run out of time this morning. I need to get a knuckle on ASAP. Hope you've sorted out parts and other questions. If not hit me in a PM, I'll get to in the morning.
You can also ask your local parts guy at Toyota/lexus dealership, if in doubt.
I use PQ for part ID'ing and numbers, which it's very import to use VIN# .
