Builds The Story of Blue

[87warrior]

I've run that same HM M1 for the last 130k (of 375k) in my 99 and have seen no issues. There is some dispute here on MUD about HM oil, but as far as I am concerned any fresh, high quality, oil will keep the 4.7 happy.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Checked the AHC pressures today (with 40 gallon filled to the brim). At 6.9 Mpa-g front and 6.1 Mpa-g rear they are picture perfect!

Next step is to level it side to side and zero out the height sensors.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

No major updates lately. Been tinkering with a few small things here and there:

1. Replaced the passenger side speaker with Morel Maximo 6 component : Morel Maximo 6 - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MAXIM62/Morel-Maximo-6.html. I had replaced the driver side more than a year ago, but left passenger side alone as old speaker was still working at that time
2. Put LED bulbs in the hi beams. Beats the old yellowing halogens! Amazon product ASIN B0B6H97TR9
3. Checked out the cold air leaking issue on passenger feet when traveling at highway speed and the air setting is NOT on re-circ. Used a borrowed FLIR camera to spot the cold leak around the cabin air filter door. Found a crack in the cover and replaced both cover and door and sealed with black FIPG. Will check how effective it ended up being when I get a chance.
4. My 8 year old excitedly claimed that their is a waterfall coming down the hatch. Pulled the wing and found the third brake light seal had failed. Took it off, cleaned all the surfaces and released with the black FIPG - problem solved!
5. For a while I had this issue that truck would unlock itself and turn of the interior dome light (at door setting) every time I turned left sharply! Somebody else posted that this could be caused by a loose door latch on front passenger door! Sure enough that was culprit - tightened it up and the issue was immediately resolved! Lovely!
   • Tightened up all the other door latches too - a couple of them were barely tight!
6. Lubed up all the locks, hinges, door checks, rear swing outs and latches with this lube. Doors swing, lock/unlock smoothly now: Amazon product ASIN B000KKJRL8
7. Lubed up all the window channels with this dry lube. No more lethargic windows in sub-freezing weather: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0ODGM

 

[YezusLX]

Lubed up all the window channels with this dry lube. No more lethargic windows in sub-freezing weather:

There has got to be a quality wholesome joke in here somewhere. Dry lube? Come ON man... haha

Do tell us peasants more about the door latch trick please sir.

Do the high beams require something like the LASfit low beam covers?

Morel is good stuff, should sound a million times better. ("sound" advice from a deaf guy ).

 

[silvarshooter]

Does the WD dry lube leave any white residue? I need to lube my tracks as well and have some PB dry lube for wood tool surfaces but it’s got Teflon and definitely leaves residue. Been trying to find a different option, seems like a lot of YouTubers use a silicone based but for whatever reason I don’t like that idea.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Does the WD dry lube leave any white residue? I need to lube my tracks as well and have some PB dry lube for wood tool surfaces but it’s got Teflon and definitely leaves residue. Been trying to find a different option, seems like a lot of YouTubers use a silicone based but for whatever reason I don’t like that idea.

No residue. Works great in sub-freezing temps and the windows don't freeze up!

 

[silvarshooter]

Good to know, thanks.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Mileage: 186,000
Changed heater tees. The old ones turned out to be rock solid but they were of unknown vintage so I decided to replace them.
Also, took the driver side timing belt cover off to look at the TB - it was last replaced at 110k miles, abt 10 years ago. Looked brand new!!

 

[AlpineAccess]

Mileage: 186,000
Changed heater tees. The old ones turned out to be rock solid but they were of unknown vintage so I decided to replace them.
Also, took the driver side timing belt cover off to look at the TB - it was last replaced at 110k miles, abt 10 years ago. Looked brand new!!

My belt looked brand new but at 200k my idlers were pretty worn out!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Mileage 187,200.
Been putting some miles on the truck just on weekend trips. Yesterday, explored the southern most section of the 'Trans Wi Adventure Trail' (T.W.A.T). Turned out to be a total dud unfortunately, since it was just some back roads. Scenery was pretty, as it runs along the Mississippi river and some rustic roads but who ever added the word 'adventure' in the name must have a sick sense of humor!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

After driving 300+ miles over the last weekend, this morning the truck refused to start! It cranks strong but the motor doesn't fire up!

Long time readers of this thread would recall that just this last August I had the all-too-common immobilizer relay failure issue and I ended up replacing the entire fuse box and put in a new EFI relay. That was merely 5k miles ago. Also, back in Mar 2021 when I first got this truck I did replace the fuel pump etc. when I got the LRA tank installed

Well - I started troubleshooting this morning:

1. 20A EFI fuse was just fine - still replaced with a fresh one - no change
2. Tried @medtro bypass: EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/efi-relay-bypass-kit-immobilizer-fix-for-uzj100-lx470.952811/page-3#post-11447714
   • No dice
3. Pulled the output line from fuel filter and cranked - no fuel came out. Not. Even. A. Drop!

So it looks like a fuel delivery issue. Yes, I have abt 20 gallons in the tank and yes the fuel pump was Toyota OEM with under 20k miles on it. No, there was no power loss or other indications of the pump going bad in the last 2 days and 300 miles. No codes were stored either.

I fired up the old Techsctream and tried to connect to the Engine ECU but got error "Couldn't connect to ECU/no response". Not sure what to make of that! Was hoping to try and power on the fuel pump with Techstream to see it is working.

I am thinking the pump can't completely fail and stop pumping altogether with no prior warning. So perhaps it is the fuel delivery relay/computer/thingamajig that sits on the left D-pillar?
This is really the only fuel delivery part, I haven't replaced in the last 2 years! I have asked a local 100 series friend to borrow his working fuel relay to test this out before I dish out $250 for part number: 89570-60140!

 

[87warrior]

Based on your description, I bet your fuel pump is fine. It sounds like something is preventing the ECU from telling the Fuel Pump Control 'thingamajig' to power up the fuel pump. Did you verify that the security light goes out when you insert the key?

You could check for voltage at the fuel pump harness plug. It's to the left of the fuel tank, between the body and frame. I can't tell you which pins to check for voltage across without checking the EWD.

FWIW - I am in disbelief at how DUST FREE the body is behind the rear trim and jack compartment on Blue Everything back there is always covered in dust on mine. (I may have a few rusty holes in the body behind the tupperware bumper)

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Based on your description, I bet your fuel pump is fine. It sounds like something is preventing the ECU from telling the Fuel Pump Control 'thingamajig' to power up the fuel pump. Did you verify that the security light goes out when you insert the key?

You could check for voltage at the fuel pump harness plug. It's to the left of the fuel tank, between the body and frame. I can't tell you which pins to check for voltage across without checking the EWD.

FWIW - I am in disbelief at how DUST FREE the body is behind the rear trim and jack compartment on Blue Everything back there is always covered in dust on mine. (I may have a few rusty holes in the body behind the tupperware bumper)

Thanks Brett!
Yes, the security light goes off when I insert the key and the check engine light comes on when I turn the ignition to position 2 - both are signs that the EFI/Immobilizer is not the issue. I was able to connect the Techstream to the ECU and tried the Active Test function to turn on the fuel pump manually. Even though the Techstream claimed the pump to be ON, it did not turn on.

Yesterday, I tried to swap a known-good relay from my friend's LX but we couldn't find this unit on his 06 LX!! I wonder if it is located somewhere else?

So, I guess the next step is to check that plug you posted about OR maybe pull out the access cover and try to directly power the fuel pump from the top. The fuel relay/control unit is about $275 shipped from McGeorge and will take a week to get here. I don't want to order it if it isn't the issue.

 

[SteveH]

@87warrior - FWIW - I am in disbelief at how DUST FREE the body is behind the rear trim and jack compartment on Blue Everything back there is always covered in dust on mine. (I may have a few rusty holes in the body behind the tupperware bumper)

My jack area was dusty, and Lexus (or someone) left out a large plastic body plug behind the driver's side lip of the tupperware bumper (in the side of the quarter panel). The plug is not orderable (that I could find) so I found a junkyard one.

Due to the missing plug, my quarter panel had sand in it, so I removed the lowest quarter panel drain plug, shot some compressed air in there to blow out the sand, and then squirted the cavity full of ATF.

 

[YezusLX]

FWIW: This might be off-topic here, but I ran into a similar issue with key recognition. I ended up exchanging the security module under dash from salvage yard (behind and to right of radio in between airbag and radio and over vent) vehicle would not unlock with keyless or only driver door and cease responding. Then start but never run despite security light operating as designed (per tech stream and dealer). After having ECU revirginized, new keys, actuators, fuel pump, EFI relay, broken lock cylinder this box seemed to resolve the inconsistent starting issue with key recognition. After the swap, all the keys worked keyless entry and started rather than some working and some not even being recognized. Probably not relevant here but maybe worth a look to at least clean and dielectric grease to avoid other issues. I hope you get this resolved without too much further nonsense. Keep us posted broski.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Time to start testing the fuel pump:

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Results are conclusive!
1. The pump is showing as open circuit (no resistance (EDIT: infinite resistance) between terminal 4 and 5)!
2. Pump doesn't turn on when 12v are applied across terminal 4 and 5
3. When cranking, the fuel pump plug is reading 11.5v on terminals 4 and 5 - confirming that the fuel control relay is not at fault.

Given that this is an OEM pump, only 24 months old and with merely 20k miles, what are my warranty options?

Edit: So this OEM unit lasted only 2 years and 20k miles - is that normal? My local dealer tells me that it is out of 12 month warranty period so I am SOL. Ordering a new one at $316

 

[87warrior]

Given that this is an OEM pump, only 24 months old and with merely 20k miles, what are my warranty options?

Dang it!

Unfortunately, I think Toyota parts warranty is 12mo/12k miles.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Looks like the Denso direct replacement (957-003) NLA. Anyone tried other brands like Delphi or TYC?

paging @AlpineAccess , @JunkCrzr89 , @2001LC , @patchagan , @jerryb

I am not averse to splurging on a new OEM unit but 2 years service life is very unsatisfactory

 

[AlpineAccess]

Looks like the Denso direct replacement (957-003) NLA. Anyone tried other brands like Delphi or TYC?

paging @AlpineAccess , @JunkCrzr89 , @2001LC , @patchagan , @jerryb

I am not averse to splurging on a new OEM unit but 2 years service life is very unsatisfactory

My Denso direct pump continues to live in the drawer in the back at 215k. My OEM keeps trucking. But it was super cheap so I'd get two and keep one in the truck. They don't take up much room as you know.

I put a new OEM alternator in (New, from the dealership) and I already think the rectifier is failing. No idea what's up with Toyota parts lately. Only saving grace is when it craps out within the first year.