yngmrostrvile
GOLD Star
Did you rebush or replace the panhard bar?
Builds The Story of Blue (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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- build thread lx470
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Hard to tell what helped or not. After rear refresh in my case I do feel like it's got better/firm. Not sure what "jiggling" is. I didn't measure AHC pressure without sensor. But with sensor and new springs they were barely in specs. I did install rear LC springs.
Looked over this topic. Man, thats cool truck! Like a brother of mine 
I really envy that big fuel tank.
I really envy that big fuel tank.howdy, you haven't come across anyone that has some extra AHC ht sensors have you?
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- #145
Sorry man - I don't have any spare parts for AHC
ok, thanks for responding
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- #147
Neither, it is still what came from factory. I did put a new panhard bar in my last truck and it made zero impact on the butt dyno so I might skip it this time.
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- #148
Refreshed the front end today. Replaced upper control arms, lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends and sway bar links. 3 hours of hard work. The steering is nice and tight now, but I found the driver side steering rack boot has holes in it, and the rack is leaking - so I need to get back in there to replace the boot.
Also, the front bearings have ever so slight play in them so I need to repack and re-torque them.
Ball joints are 555 brand supplied by @cruiseroutfit and the control arms, tie rods and sway bar links are all Toyota.
Also, the front bearings have ever so slight play in them so I need to repack and re-torque them.
Ball joints are 555 brand supplied by @cruiseroutfit and the control arms, tie rods and sway bar links are all Toyota.
Man, you make me feel lazier than I already am.
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- #150
Had a local shop put the truck up on a lift and wash off all the dirt, treat a couple of spots for rust. Once prepped, they sprayed all surfaces (including inside the frame rails, door cavities etc.) with wax. Finished it all off with NH Oil coating.
Before:
Before:
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- #151
After:
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- #152
Replaced the broken power antenna with a OEM manual version.
Wow that looks like it just rolled off the line. I live in the southwest so rust is not really an issue, but what does a service like that cost?
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- #154
I had to pay $800 of the finest doubloons from the old coffer. So far I have managed to triple my investment in this truck!
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- #156
It is definitely more like wax and oil mixture. Not a paint or coating which can hide rust until it's too late. I do think it has some sort of black dye in it that helps with appearance.
From their own website: "...blend of highly refined Mineral Oil, & Green Corrosion Inhibitors that guard against rust and corrosion on all metals. It eliminates moisture and oxygen while providing a barrier against salt, dirt, and other pollutants from the metal..."
I wonder if that stuff is sold over the counter to the general public. Would love to test it against fluid film or Amsoil HDMP (my other favorite coating). If you are brave enough to drive that in the Wisconsin winter, I’d love to hear a report in the spring how that coating held up!
- Thread starter
- #158
They definitely sell it to the public. My favorite among what I have tried so far is the Cosmoline RP 342, I have found it to be very resilient and quite effective.
I do plan to drive it throughout the year, including the winter so we'll see what things look like after the first salt season
Awesome man. I am a firm believer in Fluid Film. 4 winters with my LS430 and it’s still 99.5% rust free. The only rust I see is from a few penny sized paint chips on the rear axles. Other then that, we see 3 month old cars at our shop with more corrosion and rust than that car.
