- Thread starter
- #101
Started cleaning up the interior. Took off the passenger seat and found this. I think a black ABS project box and a little different routing of the cable will clean this right up!
Builds The Story of Blue (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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- build thread lx470
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- Thread starter
- #102
Had a fruitful weekend. Took off the second row seats, floor trim pieces and part of front carpet. All this effort to properly route the cables and clean up the wiring under the passenger seat. Yes I know the carpet is filthy - my interior detailer failed me miserably
Also, put on the newly bed-lined WKOR sliders and added the step plates that I had bought previously.
Also, put on the newly bed-lined WKOR sliders and added the step plates that I had bought previously.
Looks great! How did you secure the step plates?
- Thread starter
- #104
@white-knuckleoffroad makes them specifically for their sliders. They included the plastic coated p-clips and stainless steel hardware too!
- Thread starter
- #105
Got the old Techstream fired up and check the AHC sensor pressures: 8.0 front and 6.2 rear. Hmm! that won't do!
Jacked the front end up and tighten the big torsion bar bolts a couple of turns and made it much better at 5.6 front and 5.4 rear!
Before:.
After:
Jacked the front end up and tighten the big torsion bar bolts a couple of turns and made it much better at 5.6 front and 5.4 rear!
Before:.
After:
- Thread starter
- #106
So for the last couple of days I've started noticing all my dash and outside lights are pulsing. This seems to happen at RPM levels from idle to 4500rpm!
Since it is running a DC Power Engineering 270a alternator, I reached out to them. They think it could be either a worn-out belt or the voltage regulator.
My troubleshooting plan is to first check the voltage across the main battery to see if I can measure the fluctuation. Secondly I plan to take the accessory drive belt off and check the tensioner and alternator pulleys to see if they are turning smooth etc.
If I still can't see anything obvious, I might pull the alternator and send it off the DC Power guys to see what they can find out
Since it is running a DC Power Engineering 270a alternator, I reached out to them. They think it could be either a worn-out belt or the voltage regulator.
My troubleshooting plan is to first check the voltage across the main battery to see if I can measure the fluctuation. Secondly I plan to take the accessory drive belt off and check the tensioner and alternator pulleys to see if they are turning smooth etc.
If I still can't see anything obvious, I might pull the alternator and send it off the DC Power guys to see what they can find out
What’s your idle voltage look like? Does it change when you hit around 4500rpm?
- Thread starter
- #108
Actually the lights have stopped pulsating after I posted the last message!
I haven't looked into it since then.
In other news front and rear windshield washers are inop due to chewed water lines - I am planning to replace them this weekend
- Thread starter
- #109
Hard to believe it's been two weeks since my last update. Since then I have traced the wiring for the Ironman dual battery controller [Dual Battery Kit -275 amp Motorized (Includes Monitor & Override switch) - https://ironman4x4america.com/dual-battery-kit-275-amp-motorized-includes-monitor-override-switch/] and found a few wires were chewed through by rodents. Rewiring them was actually not hard at all.
Then I noticed the second battery was reporting less than 11v! It looks like the motorized controller is no longer working
I can still manually connect and disconnect it but the automatic function is no more.
So now, I need to figure out if I should try and find the same Ironman controller or is it high time to switch to something simpler like RedArc isolator [Amazon product ASIN B07F4SG7WK].
Since the truck is running the truly impressive 270amp DC-Power alternator, I am worried a 100A isolator may be a bottle neck? I must admit I am not very knowledgeable about this so someone correct me if this will be an issue. @REDARCRyan any insights?
Then I noticed the second battery was reporting less than 11v! It looks like the motorized controller is no longer working
I can still manually connect and disconnect it but the automatic function is no more.So now, I need to figure out if I should try and find the same Ironman controller or is it high time to switch to something simpler like RedArc isolator [Amazon product ASIN B07F4SG7WK].
Since the truck is running the truly impressive 270amp DC-Power alternator, I am worried a 100A isolator may be a bottle neck? I must admit I am not very knowledgeable about this so someone correct me if this will be an issue. @REDARCRyan any insights?
Hard to believe it's been two weeks since my last update. Since then I have traced the wiring for the Ironman dual battery controller [Dual Battery Kit -275 amp Motorized (Includes Monitor & Override switch) - https://ironman4x4america.com/dual-battery-kit-275-amp-motorized-includes-monitor-override-switch/] and found a few wires were chewed through by rodents. Rewiring them was actually not hard at all.
Then I noticed the second battery was reporting less than 11v! It looks like the motorized controller is no longer working
So now, I need to figure out if I should try and find the same Ironman controller or is it high time to switch to something simpler like RedArc isolator [Amazon product ASIN B07F4SG7WK].
Since the truck is running the truly impressive 270amp DC-Power alternator, I am worried a 100A isolator may be a bottle neck? I must admit I am not very knowledgeable about this so someone correct me if this will be an issue. @REDARCRyan any insights?
Hey @ClassyJalopy
Have no fear, our SBI12 and variances can handle 100Amps constant current with peaks of 400Amps, whilst our SBI212 variants can handle 200Amp with peaks of 600Amps.
A standard dual battery system for charging would easily be covered by of SBI12 products however systems including larger loads like winches would best be served by our SBI212 products…
Have you also checked out our BCDC line of products that allow you to also incorporate charging and solar?
- Thread starter
- #111
Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it.
Is there a preferred place to purchase the SBI212?
EDIT: On reading up further, I am less sure about not needing the DC to DC charger. I will do more research and reach out to you via PM.
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- Thread starter
- #112
Replaced the original ignition switch rod with the updated design one: quick 30 min project thanks to this video:
and this post by @MaineLX470 busted ignition - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/busted-ignition.57050/page-10#post-9505653
Thanks @CappyKD for including the replacement part with the truck!
Before vs after. Red highlights the beefier design.
and this post by @MaineLX470 busted ignition - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/busted-ignition.57050/page-10#post-9505653
Thanks @CappyKD for including the replacement part with the truck!
Before vs after. Red highlights the beefier design.
- Thread starter
- #113
Pulsing lights issue returned after abt a week. It doesn't do that all the time, but once it starts it will keep pulsing, even if I turn off the engine and start again.
When pulsing the main battery voltage fluctuates between 13.5v to 14.2v.
I took the serpentine belt off and found all the pulleys to be smooth. Tensioner has nice even tension.
Disconnecting the second battery has no impact either.
It seems to be worse at idle speed but definitely still noticeable at even 4000 rpm.
Local parts store checked the battery and found no issues. They even checked the alternator and found no issues,, but at that moment lights were not pulsing!
Now for remedy, should I pull the alternator and have it checked on the bench? Should I have it rebuilt by DC Power folks in CA, or is it time to just buy a new one at Toyota?
Should I even try replacing the fusible link, or any other stuff first?
When pulsing the main battery voltage fluctuates between 13.5v to 14.2v.
I took the serpentine belt off and found all the pulleys to be smooth. Tensioner has nice even tension.
Disconnecting the second battery has no impact either.
It seems to be worse at idle speed but definitely still noticeable at even 4000 rpm.
Local parts store checked the battery and found no issues. They even checked the alternator and found no issues,, but at that moment lights were not pulsing!
Now for remedy, should I pull the alternator and have it checked on the bench? Should I have it rebuilt by DC Power folks in CA, or is it time to just buy a new one at Toyota?
Should I even try replacing the fusible link, or any other stuff first?
Looking at you thread I have to give you Kudos for reviving this well-built rig.
I wouldn't have replied if it weren't for the issue with the Ironman dual battery setup. I have the same issue with mine and haven't gotten around to changing it mainly because it works manually (I have it on "on" all the time, save for when I get to camp when I truly need to isolate the batteries)
Have you talked to an Ironman dealer? I haven't been able to get them to reply regarding the issue or where to find a replacement module..
I wouldn't have replied if it weren't for the issue with the Ironman dual battery setup. I have the same issue with mine and haven't gotten around to changing it mainly because it works manually (I have it on "on" all the time, save for when I get to camp when I truly need to isolate the batteries)
Have you talked to an Ironman dealer? I haven't been able to get them to reply regarding the issue or where to find a replacement module..
- Thread starter
- #115
Yes, I am using it manually too for the time being. I am all but convinced that a Redarc DC to DC charger would be best suited for my needs in the long run, but right now, there are too many other issues to fix here.
I would check your alternator brushes, the pulsing is a symptom I've seen on 80's and 100's with the alternator brushes wearing out. They run out to where the spring doesn't have enough tension to apply good even pressure.
- Thread starter
- #117
Spoke with DC Power engineering. I am shipping the unit out to them and have them service/rebuild it. Here's what a 270 amp alternator look like!
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What do they think it is?
That alternator is awesome. Don't even know what I'd do with 270amps, that's a ton of power. Stick weld?
- Thread starter
- #119
They have a test harness they use to bench test the alternators. I asked them if they think it is the voltage regulator but they weren't willing to speculate without having a chance to test it themselves. I will be sure to post an update here once I hear back from them (some time next week, I suspect).
270 amps is definitely an incredible amount of power. This is @CappyKD 's old truck, he definitely did not half ass anything on this one
Following your lead, @ClassyJalopy , I ordered the ignition rod assembly yesterday for roughly $145 shipped. I don't want to be caught without one. I may just go ahead and replace it since I will have the seats out to do some console work. Remember I'm almost like @flintknapper when it comes to "while you are in there" maintenance. Ha! 
