Builds The Story of Blue (5 Viewers)

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It is definitely more like wax and oil mixture. Not a paint or coating which can hide rust until it's too late. I do think it has some sort of black dye in it that helps with appearance.

From their own website: "...blend of highly refined Mineral Oil, & Green Corrosion Inhibitors that guard against rust and corrosion on all metals. It eliminates moisture and oxygen while providing a barrier against salt, dirt, and other pollutants from the metal..."

Yours looks great. I've been following NH Oil users for a few years with Tacoma owners. I've been impressed with what I see. I started following it after watching this video.

 
I have this gigantic antenna on the front bumper which leads to coax connection by the dashboard. This coax was then connected to a radio (GMRS I assume). This looks like an expensive antenna but I can't get over the size of it.
Can we identify this antenna? Is there a smaller alternator that doesn't scream look-at-me-I-gots-meself-a-radio?

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I have this gigantic antenna on the front bumper which leads to coax connection by the dashboard. This coax was then connected to a radio (GMRS I assume). This looks like an expensive antenna but I can't get over the size of it.
Can we identify this antenna? Is there a smaller alternator that doesn't scream look-at-me-I-gots-meself-a-radio?

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Is your radio working well? Do you bang the antenna against brush? I've got a big 6dbi gain GMRS radio that is built to take brush hits. I've banged against brush a few times and it still works. As far as the 6dbi gain, I need to run the radio on low power around other radios on the trail because the signal gets cut out from being too powerful. LOL

I see some stealth antennas that take up very little space.
 
Is your radio working well? Do you bang the antenna against brush? I've got a big 6dbi gain GMRS radio that is built to take brush hits. I've banged against brush a few times and it still works. As far as the 6dbi gain, I need to run the radio on low power around other radios on the trail because the signal gets cut out from being too powerful. LOL

I see some stealth antennas that take up very little space.
I have yet to try out the radio - unfortunately I have had very little seat time in my 4 months of ownership thus far. But yes it is flexible and is mounted on a spring so it takes hits like a champ!
 
I have yet to try out the radio - unfortunately I have had very little seat time in my 4 months of ownership thus far. But yes it is flexible and is mounted on a spring so it takes hits like a champ!
I would try it out on the radio. You may already have a great antenna.
 
I have yet to try out the radio - unfortunately I have had very little seat time in my 4 months of ownership thus far. But yes it is flexible and is mounted on a spring so it takes hits like a champ!

A good 42" 6dbi GMRS gain antenna will sell for around $180 -- more than many radios.
 
This is @CappyKD 's old truck, I have no doubt it is a great antenna (dude did not half ass anything!) but I am hoping to put on something a little smaller just for visual reasons. Or perhaps, I should check if it can be easily taken off stored in the back, until really needed!
 
This is @CappyKD 's old truck, I have no doubt it is a great antenna (dude did not half ass anything!) but I am hoping to put on something a little smaller just for visual reasons. Or perhaps, I should check if it can be easily taken off stored in the back, until really needed!
Do you have a tab to mount one on the right side of the bar? You could get two to balance out the look. One for CB and the other for GMRS.
 
That looks like a firestik for CB. They sell shorter ones, but you dont really want to go too short for cb (4w legal limit). I switched to GMRS and use a midland 6db antenna which is about 30" tall, but much thinner. If you're only really using it for trail comms, you can get away with something like this:

 
That looks like a firestik for CB. They sell shorter ones, but you dont really want to go too short for cb (4w legal limit). I switched to GMRS and use a midland 6db antenna which is about 30" tall, but much thinner. If you're only really using it for trail comms, you can get away with something like this:

Bingo! Yes, I also got confirmation from the prev. owner, it is a 4 ft long CB radio antenna. I think I will replace it with the ghost version. I prefer GMRS over CB but sometimes CB is all that is available on a group ride.
 
Great work on bringing this rig back to glory! It looks to have a really nice selection of mods, much of it similar to what I'm doing with mine.

Those mice are evil. My sister-in-law's Audi got totaled because a few mice got up under it and shredded the wires. It's incredible the damage they can cause. We have similar problems up in the mountains with marmots, who like to do the same thing.
 
The connectors are different, you'd need something like this to make that work. That midland has an NMO mount.

Amazon product ASIN B00H7H6HP6
But also, you'd probably want to stick with an antenna advertised/tuned for CB otherwise your range will probably be 💩
Thanks for mentioning that. Looks like the antenna is coming down for the time being. I have a magnetic mount antenna that I can use when I am forced to use CB radio.
 
I have the same antenna, it's a firestik.

As for "winterizing" your engine and engine bay, I have been using this stuff for 4-5 years now:

Amazon product ASIN B0002Q9F26
Basically, get any cheap <$50 undercoating gun with an extension wand, shake the product before filling the gun, and spray EVERYTHING. It will look like you clear coated your engine/engine bay at first, but at some point the stuff dries a good amount to where it just looks like you have plastic/rubber dressing on your motors like dealers like to do, except this stuff isn't just for looks, it keep rust/corrosion at bay 100% from what I have seen. If you shoot it too heavy in some areas and you see it pooling up, just get some compressed air and air it all out so you have a nice even coat over everything. I've done this 4 times (every fall) to my LS430 (California car) since I got it in 2017, I did my friend's 04 100 series from TX, my Sienna (TX), and another LS400 (AZ) and so far all engine bays still look brand new, not an ounce of corrosion on the aluminum parts, or any signs of rust anywhere. Stuff is the real deal! You'll see some smoking/burnt off smell the first time you start and warm up your engine, completely normal. It lasts maybe 20-30 minutes and after a couple of days driving, no smell or smoke at all. It takes maybe 20-30 minutes to do and I think it's a great investment if you want everything to remain like-new looking. Get under the truck and spray the tranny too if you don't want that to get corroded.
 
Here the Sienna after last winter and LS after 4 winters. Both cars always parked outside and never any engine/undercarriage wash during the winter months. I feel like salt doesn’t stick to Fluid Film and Boeshield T9. No need to wash during the winter IMO.

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I finally took the Blue out for a quick 20 mile round trip at highway speeds and observed a few things:
  • Interior is quite and creak free
  • The speedometer is spot on with 34.5 in tires and 4.88 gears
  • Nitto Ridge Grapplers are reasonably quiet, not as quiet as KO2s on my prev truck
  • Body motions are better controlled now. The sideways shimmy and steering vagueness is cured
  • There is virtually no brake dive, even on hard braking
  • Both front door speakers are inop - not sure what is going on there
  • The ride quality is still pretty dismal unfortunately. Two issues are pretty apparent
    • The rear seems to be over-sprung (LC OEM springs in the back). Rear jumps up and down quite unpleasantly at even minor bumps
    • The whole body "shudders" at every pothole - what could be the cause of this? Old shock cushions, front lower control arm bushings or even the old body mount cushions?
I can get fresh AHC pressure readings for front and rear later but the last time I checked they were spot on. Front bjs, front UCA, front sway barlinks, rear UCAs are all new so we don't have a ton of old rubber parts left at this point.
 
I finally took the Blue out for a quick 20 mile round trip at highway speeds and observed a few things:
  • Interior is quite and creak free
  • The speedometer is spot on with 34.5 in tires and 4.88 gears
  • Nitto Ridge Grapplers are reasonably quiet, not as quiet as KO2s on my prev truck
  • Body motions are better controlled now. The sideways shimmy and steering vagueness is cured
  • There is virtually no brake dive, even on hard braking
  • Both front door speakers are inop - not sure what is going on there
  • The ride quality is still pretty dismal unfortunately. Two issues are pretty apparent
    • The rear seems to be over-sprung (LC OEM springs in the back). Rear jumps up and down quite unpleasantly at even minor bumps
    • The whole body "shudders" at every pothole - what could be the cause of this? Old shock cushions, front lower control arm bushings or even the old body mount cushions?
I can get fresh AHC pressure readings for front and rear later but the last time I checked they were spot on. Front bjs, front UCA, front sway barlinks, rear UCAs are all new so we don't have a ton of old rubber parts left at this point.
It might be oversprung as you mentioned. Before I had techstream I cranked my t-bars to level the truck, when I later ran techstream to check it I was at 5.9 in the frong. I adjusted the pressures to 6.8 and it made a big difference. Going over small bumps was much smoother, before it was a bit jarring but not like what you described, but your springs are beefy. Also, if you haven't already removed the clear bra I had the same issue. Soaking it in goo gone and keeping it soaked for a couple hours was the best method, then using a plastic scraper to smudge it all off. It was a nasty job but I got the 3m rubber wheel and immediately burned through the paint doing a small test on my mirror so I decided to never do that again.
 
Merely 3 months after I took off the rack to get it professionally sandblasted and painted, I have put it back on the truck! Things move at a glacial pace here!
Also added the wind faring. I have said this before, Gamiviti rack is the best in its class IMHO and Tim @nakman is a pure joy to work with.
This rack is an older design with 4 light mounting tabs on the lower edge which makes putting a wind faring on tricky - but Tim had a solution for that. Worked out great!

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