Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (8 Viewers)

[prwillard2]

You need to cut the gasket out to remove your windshield. Go slow and cut more and more gasket to get the windshield out. I fractured my old windshield trying to get mine out because I had not cut out enough. New glass here in the states is relatively rare (or at least I was told it was rare by Toyota dealer).

Windshield re-install is a two person job that is quite taxing, especially if you have never done with with the dual sided gasket. Thought for sure I was going to break my new glass.

I used a bunch of dry spray lube to install mine, and covered the entire opening in Mastercoat silver series before I reinstalled my windshield.

 

[theglobb]

"As long as you aren't trying to re-use the old gasket you can just cut it up with a razer knife and pull it out. You can get the windshield out easy. If you're trying to take it out without damaging the old gasket that is very difficult."

Yep, I’ve removed windows with the old style seals on air cooled VW’s and it is quite easy if you cut the gasket. Reinstallation isn’t too bad either using a cord to pull the window gasket in.

Followed everyone's advice for the windshield and applied it to the side windows aswell. Worked very well for the 2 fixed windows, had them out in 10 minutes per window, surprised me with how easy it was... Well that all immediately went away when it came to removing the sliding windows, what a pain. Took me roughly more than 2 hours PER WINDOW to cut out all the adhesive holding them in, and I'm assuming they were removed whenever the crappy repair job was done before so they were also riveted back into the body... so much shoddiness.

Before & After

Some rot that was hiding and a photo of one of the rivets,

Keep up the good work @theglobb Remember if you need a break catch the ferry down to Ocracoke (I guess up from you)

I may be doing a head gasket on an old 4wd 96 Tacoma for a neighbor of mine for some side cash. If that's the case I'll drive it on up your way for a test drive to make sure everything is up to spec!

Still some steps away for you, but when putting it back in, remember to put some putty under the gasket lips after install. FSM explicitly states this, but many shops and people don't know/do it and wonder about rust to show up shortly after a windshield swap.
Well, I guess, our community will need to provide some mental support once you get started on the windshield frame anyways.
Keep it up! We all admire your dedication.

Thank you!!! Good to know, I bought a windshield gasket from @Owyhee Jackass, but wont be removing it until I fix all of this rust on the sides of the troopy. Will need as much mental support and ideas when it comes to reconstructing the windshield frame!



A few videos below showing a pretty funny failure of the sliding window removal, gotta figure out how to get that piece back in now haha. And a warning to anyone else with a 70 series or Landcruiser of any kind with older weather stripping.

 

[Felde]

Upsi. Well, getting the glass back in isn't that difficult, if the frame is out. The troopy's sliding windows are a bit different from my 73s, though:
Remove the vertical bar in the middle (if present), slide glas to middle, put the frame on the ground, stand on the lower rail, pull up the upper rail and fiddle the glas out or back in. You probably want to do the sliding channels anyway.
My concern now is for the upper frame rail, which you twisted, mainly in the upper corners. Hopefully you can get it straight again.
I wonder what the concept on the troopy is to drain water that gets on top of the window frame (into that gap between body and window frame) and into the lower sliding channel. The 73s have drain holes in the window frame and the bottom of the sliding channels, and distance pieces at that lower frame rail to give space for the wster to drain (where you pulled that rubber). Apparently the troopy is different.
Probably that concept was messed up by that French professional.
Worth getting to know how that should work before gluing the windows back in.
As a "glue': Use body sealant, not actual bodywork glue! (I used Sika 221i)
Great work!
Good Luck Ralf

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

So are you replacing parts on the window sliders? I go back and forth between ordering OEM parts or going with some Explore Glazing replacements.

 

[theglobb]

Havent updated in a bit. Lots of little rust repairs everywhere over the past week or so. Getting confident with sheet metal welding now, relatively simple once you get the hang of it, just sooooooooo time consuming

 

[theglobb]

Messed with trying to make rain gutters for the troopy for 2 days before i gave up and surrendered to the Harbor freight. $300 sheet metal brake, on sale for $200 split between my dad and I bringing it down to $100. Totally worth it!!! Make stuff so much more simple.

Making test pieces trying to figure out what dimensions work best. This one was too skinny in the middle channel to use.

Got some 3ft sections cut out to the right size I wanted and welded them in. Looks really weird as of right now but hoping once I bring that roof skin back over the gutters it'll return to looking somewhat normal. Then again it doesn't really matter, like @svsisu stated earlier. It'll all be covered up by the pop top and sealer!! Just want it super structural and no rust.

Already gone through one whole American school locker's worth of metal haha.

 

[gilmorneau]

How are you rust-proofing/treating the back sides of the repairs? Wouldn't want to go to all that work only to have it rust again from behind.

 

[coldtaco]

you probably already know this, but just incase you don't, when welding auto sheet metal to prevent warping one uses spot welds instead of line welds. it takes a lot longer but prevents warping if you take you time and go farthest apart each weld, kind of like torquing the lug nuts. also I would use a weld through primer on any sheet metal that is welded to other metal, like how it looks like you are doing the rain gutters.

 

[Rigster]

$300 sheet metal brake, on sale for $200 split between my dad and I bringing it down to $100. Totally worth it!!! Make stuff so much more simple.

I have to thank you for the wonderful idea. I have 4 kids, 2 with cars now, and I tend to either do all the work repairing, or at least guiding my second son to do the work as he is aspiring to become a mechanic.

So if this works, I could potentially be able to outfit some tools in the shop by splitting it 3 ways! Now to sell it to the lads...

 

[svsisu]

Messed with trying to make rain gutters for the troopy for 2 days before i gave up and surrendered to the Harbor freight. $300 sheet metal brake, on sale for $200 split between my dad and I bringing it down to $100. Totally worth it!!! Make stuff so much more simple.

View attachment 3638417

Making test pieces trying to figure out what dimensions work best. This one was too skinny in the middle channel to use.
View attachment 3638420
View attachment 3638419

Got some 3ft sections cut out to the right size I wanted and welded them in. Looks really weird as of right now but hoping once I bring that roof skin back over the gutters it'll return to looking somewhat normal. Then again it doesn't really matter, like @svsisu stated earlier. It'll all be covered up by the pop top and sealer!! Just want it super structural and no rust.
View attachment 3638416

Already gone through one whole American school locker's worth of metal haha.
View attachment 3638418

Great job! Save some cabinet metal for my lower quarter panels

One thing to keep in mind (I’m sure you are) is to keep the overall outline/shape and thickness close to original. That’s important for getting the top to seat correctly. Also, after the repairs are done and the roof is cut off, you will have access to almost all of those areas you are working on and can liberally coat it all with fluid film or other product.

As others have mentioned, and it looks like you are using, weld through primer is you friend. As is Master Coat paint.

 

[Felde]

Also, after the repairs are done and the roof is cut off, you will have access to almost all of those areas you are working on and can liberally coat it all with fluid film or other product.

As the pop top is going to be glued to the troopy: Don't use FluidFilm anywhere near that seal!
I used it for the same intention on my metal rear window frame, which is glued to the FRP Top in a similar way, and it failed and leaked after 3 years, as the FluidFilm film had made it's way into the seam.
I'd probably use Zinc primer .
Cheers Ralf

 

[svsisu]

As the pop top is going to be glued to the troopy: Don't use FluidFilm anywhere near that seal!
I used it for the same intention on my metal rear window frame, which is glued to the FRP Top in a similar way, and it failed and leaked after 3 years, as the FluidFilm film had made it's way into the seam.
I'd probably use Zinc primer .
Cheers Ralf

Agreed, I was meaning the back side of the repair areas, and all the nooks and crannies that become exposed when the roof is removed, and not where the sealant goes. I fluid filmed everywhere except the sealing surface, then used degreaser on the poptop and sealing surface of the troopy, multiple times. It was very easy to keep the fluid film away from any area that gets sealant. Hopefully that makes more sense, apologies for being confusing.

 

[Felde]

Agreed, I was meaning the back side of the repair areas, and all the nooks and crannies that become exposed when the roof is removed, and not where the sealant goes. I fluid filmed everywhere except the sealing surface, then used degreaser on the poptop and sealing surface of the troopy, multiple times. It was very easy to keep the fluid film away from any area that gets sealant. Hopefully that makes more sense, apologies for being confusing.

Well, yes, I got you. And I did the same.
My point is: FluidFilm penetrates that damn well, over time it gets back, even over a distance, to areas that initially had been left untreated and had been thoroughly degreased.
For repairs anywhere else on the body: FluidFilm for the win; but keep it far away from the pop top gluing area. My 2ct.
Cheers Ralf

 

[theglobb]

More progress MAN THIS IS SO TIME CONSUMING!!! There have been multiple times now when I'm drenched in sweat with 90% humidity, where I look at the Red Rocket, look back at everything I've had to do to it, and everything I WILL have to do to it in the future and wish I would have schemed up some sort of insurance fraud scheme for this thing 2 years back and then start fresh with a clean, much more rust free troopy with a solid drivetrain. REGARDLESS here we are and I'm balls-deep in it, no turning back now

Getting some of the roof skin welded back into place now that the new rain gutters have been installed

a closer look on the other side

How are you rust-proofing/treating the back sides of the repairs? Wouldn't want to go to all that work only to have it rust again from behind.

I've been coating everything with weld thru primer before I weld to or near anything, on each sides front and back. Also added sealant between the rain gutter spot welds and the interior of the troopys roof. As that's where I had a ton of corrosion come from originally it looks like, hoping the caulk will keep the moisture out. Didnt really know what else to do other than that so if anyone has any tips please let me know!

you probably already know this, but just incase you don't, when welding auto sheet metal to prevent warping one uses spot welds instead of line welds. it takes a lot longer but prevents warping if you take you time and go farthest apart each weld, kind of like torquing the lug nuts. also I would use a weld through primer on any sheet metal that is welded to other metal, like how it looks like you are doing the rain gutters.

YES! thank you, I learned that the hard way when I was redoing my rocker panels. Now I usually put down 3-5 little separate welds in a row and then move to the opposite side of things. Hit the welds with compressed air every 30 seconds or so aswell. Thanks for the advice, its always appreciated even if I have already heard of it

One thing to keep in mind (I’m sure you are) is to keep the overall outline/shape and thickness close to original. That’s important for getting the top to seat correctly. Also, after the repairs are done and the roof is cut off, you will have access to almost all of those areas you are working on and can liberally coat it all with fluid film or other product.

Yup, that's why I kept the upper section of the roof where it wasn't rusty to weld to. Trying to keep as much of an OEM shape as possible and I figured no better way than to welding right back to where I cut it from. Would be so much easier if I just cut the whole roof off and slapped some metal back to put the pop top on to... but like u mentioned it would be a nightmare trying to fit.

As the pop top is going to be glued to the troopy: Don't use FluidFilm anywhere near that seal!
I used it for the same intention on my metal rear window frame, which is glued to the FRP Top in a similar way, and it failed and leaked after 3 years, as the FluidFilm film had made it's way into the seam.
I'd probably use Zinc primer .
Cheers Ralf

My point is: FluidFilm penetrates that damn well, over time it gets back, even over a distance, to areas that initially had been left untreated and had been thoroughly degreased.

Crazy, would have never thought of this ever! Thanks so much for the heads up, not just for the pop top but really anything else I may be fluid filming close to in the future. Definitely saved me as I would have just dowsed everything with fluid film lol

Thank you all for checking in and giving advice. Keep it coming if you have anything you think could even be slightly useful for me to hear! Thanks

 

[Roastchestnuts]

More progress MAN THIS IS SO TIME CONSUMING!!! There have been multiple times now when I'm drenched in sweat with 90% humidity, where I look at the Red Rocket, look back at everything I've had to do to it, and everything I WILL have to do to it in the future and wish I would have schemed up some sort of insurance fraud scheme for this thing 2 years back and then start fresh with a clean, much more rust free troopy with a solid drivetrain. REGARDLESS here we are and I'm balls-deep in it, no turning back now

Getting some of the roof skin welded back into place now that the new rain gutters have been installed
View attachment 3642445View attachment 3642446

a closer look on the other side
View attachment 3642444View attachment 3642443View attachment 3642442



I've been coating everything with weld thru primer before I weld to or near anything, on each sides front and back. Also added sealant between the rain gutter spot welds and the interior of the troopys roof. As that's where I had a ton of corrosion come from originally it looks like, hoping the caulk will keep the moisture out. Didnt really know what else to do other than that so if anyone has any tips please let me know!

YES! thank you, I learned that the hard way when I was redoing my rocker panels. Now I usually put down 3-5 little separate welds in a row and then move to the opposite side of things. Hit the welds with compressed air every 30 seconds or so aswell. Thanks for the advice, its always appreciated even if I have already heard of it

Yup, that's why I kept the upper section of the roof where it wasn't rusty to weld to. Trying to keep as much of an OEM shape as possible and I figured no better way than to welding right back to where I cut it from. Would be so much easier if I just cut the whole roof off and slapped some metal back to put the pop top on to... but like u mentioned it would be a nightmare trying to fit.


Crazy, would have never thought of this ever! Thanks so much for the heads up, not just for the pop top but really anything else I may be fluid filming close to in the future. Definitely saved me as I would have just dowsed everything with fluid film lol

Thank you all for checking in and giving advice. Keep it coming if you have anything you think could even be slightly useful for me to hear! Thanks

Nice!! you are inspiring me to tackle the rockers on the salt wagon! Looks fantastic so far and I cant wait to see it when its done.

 

[bj70bc]

More progress MAN THIS IS SO TIME CONSUMING!!! There have been multiple times now when I'm drenched in sweat with 90% humidity, where I look at the Red Rocket, look back at everything I've had to do to it, and everything I WILL have to do to it in the future and wish I would have schemed up some sort of insurance fraud scheme for this thing 2 years back and then start fresh with a clean, much more rust free troopy with a solid drivetrain. REGARDLESS here we are and I'm balls-deep in it, no turning back now

Getting some of the roof skin welded back into place now that the new rain gutters have been installed
View attachment 3642445View attachment 3642446

a closer look on the other side
View attachment 3642444View attachment 3642443View attachment 3642442



I've been coating everything with weld thru primer before I weld to or near anything, on each sides front and back. Also added sealant between the rain gutter spot welds and the interior of the troopys roof. As that's where I had a ton of corrosion come from originally it looks like, hoping the caulk will keep the moisture out. Didnt really know what else to do other than that so if anyone has any tips please let me know!

YES! thank you, I learned that the hard way when I was redoing my rocker panels. Now I usually put down 3-5 little separate welds in a row and then move to the opposite side of things. Hit the welds with compressed air every 30 seconds or so aswell. Thanks for the advice, its always appreciated even if I have already heard of it

Yup, that's why I kept the upper section of the roof where it wasn't rusty to weld to. Trying to keep as much of an OEM shape as possible and I figured no better way than to welding right back to where I cut it from. Would be so much easier if I just cut the whole roof off and slapped some metal back to put the pop top on to... but like u mentioned it would be a nightmare trying to fit.


Crazy, would have never thought of this ever! Thanks so much for the heads up, not just for the pop top but really anything else I may be fluid filming close to in the future. Definitely saved me as I would have just dowsed everything with fluid film lol

Thank you all for checking in and giving advice. Keep it coming if you have anything you think could even be slightly useful for me to hear! Thanks

I salute you

 

[gilmorneau]

Hey, @theglobb I'm gonna guess that after all this work you're going to repaint the whole car? (Still red, I hope.) If you want to get some new stickers to replace these, just let me know and I can arrange it for you:

 

[robmobile73]

More progress MAN THIS IS SO TIME CONSUMING!!! There have been multiple times now when I'm drenched in sweat with 90% humidity, where I look at the Red Rocket, look back at everything I've had to do to it, and everything I WILL have to do to it in the future and wish I would have schemed up some sort of insurance fraud scheme for this thing 2 years back and then start fresh with a clean, much more rust free troopy with a solid drivetrain. REGARDLESS here we are and I'm balls-deep in it, no turning back now

Getting some of the roof skin welded back into place now that the new rain gutters have been installed
View attachment 3642445View attachment 3642446

a closer look on the other side
View attachment 3642444View attachment 3642443View attachment 3642442



I've been coating everything with weld thru primer before I weld to or near anything, on each sides front and back. Also added sealant between the rain gutter spot welds and the interior of the troopys roof. As that's where I had a ton of corrosion come from originally it looks like, hoping the caulk will keep the moisture out. Didnt really know what else to do other than that so if anyone has any tips please let me know!

YES! thank you, I learned that the hard way when I was redoing my rocker panels. Now I usually put down 3-5 little separate welds in a row and then move to the opposite side of things. Hit the welds with compressed air every 30 seconds or so aswell. Thanks for the advice, its always appreciated even if I have already heard of it

Yup, that's why I kept the upper section of the roof where it wasn't rusty to weld to. Trying to keep as much of an OEM shape as possible and I figured no better way than to welding right back to where I cut it from. Would be so much easier if I just cut the whole roof off and slapped some metal back to put the pop top on to... but like u mentioned it would be a nightmare trying to fit.


Crazy, would have never thought of this ever! Thanks so much for the heads up, not just for the pop top but really anything else I may be fluid filming close to in the future. Definitely saved me as I would have just dowsed everything with fluid film lol

Thank you all for checking in and giving advice. Keep it coming if you have anything you think could even be slightly useful for me to hear! Thanks

Good bodywork is an art. There are guys who can do it and without doing things over and over. That's why it's so expensive. You might consider roughing it all in and paying someone to do the final 10% getting it smooth and primed..............Weld grind and beat with hammer below level fill and initial sand and pay someone to make it perfect to paint.
What "weld through primer" are you using? I will be doing what you are doing within 1 year.

 

[Broski]

Are you using .026 wire ?

 

[theglobb]

Finished the majority of the sides, moved onto the rear