Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (7 Viewers)

[theglobb]

Nice job!


Seems to pull a bit better than the 3B turbo huh?

YEP! A lot better. I am so excited to be able to finally keep up in travel and go up steep hills in 4th gear instead of 1st...

Are you positive you new master cylinder is on the same bore center line as the original? The Land Cruiser pedal ratio
(which is like 14:1) combined with your leg's power (easily 40-50 lbs force) can put quite the amount of force through there and if it's not perfectly straight the will bind up and bend. I've seen it happen before.
What is going on with the threads on it? They don't look good, did you re-thread it? If so that will also make it thinner and no help the situation...

Also, what throwout bearing are you using? I probably could have had an OEM one in your hand in two days.

It's as close as possible, the cylinder lines up perfectly with the old MC hole through the firewall. The only thing that has been changed is that the cylinder is sitting 3/8s of an inch out past father than it usually would be if it was the stock one. The threads from wilwood were some sort of non metric thread so I just ran a m8x1.25 die down it, hence the crappy threads, it was pretty much exactly an m8 in size, just screwed the die down it, maybe took off a sliver of the size as a whole?

The throughout bearing is the OEM isuzu NPR bearing, turns out the ID of the bearing is the exact same as the ID as the old Toyota throughout bearing 34.8mm. Slides perfectly onto the h55 shaft. Do you have an in on the OEM world for Isuzu?

Gotta love how well some things are not built these days. I had a slave cylnder rod on my tacoma one time crack at the fork end.. it was one I got from one of the chain autoparts stores. It was strange all of a sudden it was hard to get into gear unless I really slammed the clutch down. Found out it was bending at the crack everytime. wish I had pictures but it was for sure some bad metallurgy.

YUP! Crazy to think such a important piece of steel can be skipped on, truly sad

Chinesium is a new metal that is not on the periodic table (nor should it ever). Supply chain has diluted the metal purity of today. Dangerous when it reaches into safety side of things.

100% I work at an auto repair shop up in my college town and it is amazing how many things have caused catastrophic failure or injury just due to them being absolute crap from China

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I have picked up some 10.9 grade M8x1.25 bolts to make the upgraded rod with tomorrow, will keep everyone updated with the progress

 

[robmobile73]

YEP! A lot better. I am so excited to be able to finally keep up in travel and go up steep hills in 4th gear instead of 1st...

It's as close as possible, the cylinder lines up perfectly with the old MC hole through the firewall. The only thing that has been changed is that the cylinder is sitting 3/8s of an inch out past father than it usually would be if it was the stock one. The threads from wilwood were some sort of non metric thread so I just ran a m8x1.25 die down it, hence the crappy threads, it was pretty much exactly an m8 in size, just screwed the die down it, maybe took off a sliver of the size as a whole?

The throughout bearing is the OEM isuzu NPR bearing, turns out the ID of the bearing is the exact same as the ID as the old Toyota throughout bearing 34.8mm. Slides perfectly onto the h55 shaft. Do you have an in on the OEM world for Isuzu?

YUP! Crazy to think such a important piece of steel can be skipped on, truly sad

100% I work at an auto repair shop up in my college town and it is amazing how many things have caused catastrophic failure or injury just due to them being absolute crap from China

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have picked up some 10.9 grade M8x1.25 bolts to make the upgraded rod with tomorrow, will keep everyone updated with the progress

I hope you fixed that already with help of a welder/grinder and some hand fitment. The size of that thing makes me think that pushrods and valve stems are of similar length and diameter and both sturdy enough. Not sure how much and what you have out in your junkpiles. Some threaded rod is really poor/soft steel, like grade 3 hardware and then it's threaded making it even weaker.....

 

[robmobile73]

I hope you fixed that already with help of a welder/grinder and some hand fitment. The size of that thing makes me think that pushrods and valve stems are of similar length and diameter and both sturdy enough. Not sure how much and what you have out in your junkpiles. Some threaded rod is really poor/soft steel, like grade 3 hardware and then it's threaded making it even weaker.....

On top of that an old head bolt from a 3b is close in size and length to what you want and plenty strong...Cut slot with a cutoff wheel drill and pin with drill press. Weld/grind shape.... Easy work man, you can do it.

 

[jblueridge]

I have always been unsure about welding hardened steel like Grade 8.
Doesn’t the heat make the metal softer.

 

[theglobb]

Well... after work on Friday we went to install the new rod, I guess the cylinder got scared up at some point cause it then kept seizing into place every time it was depressed, tried honing it out with no success. So after I decided to not firebomb Wilwood HQ, I went to amazon and ordered another that arrived today! Decided to not open it up if we didn't have to. Tapped the rod to m8x1.25 and installed it... didn't work at all, the OEM Toyota little clutch fork connection lever thing is made of rubber in the inside and since this master is pushing a lot more fluid it would just fold on itself.

So my dad went to work on the vice with a hammer, some thick metal, and a welder

Made a thick SOLID metal fork, installed it all, bled the clutch and it runs works! No bending

So I drove it for an hour or so today before the sunset. Really have very few complaints/issues

#1: the clutch has slowly started to not disengaged fully again... Dont know why couldn't tell you, when it first started you had about an inch of play off the floor before the clutch started biting, then it became 1/2 an inch and by the end of my drive it was still moving the clutch but I was having to float through all of the gear, the clutch was more of a suggestion.
#2: My transmission has been shifted in some way that has moved the shifter forward, now going into 1st and 3rd gear I am ramming against the dash and I often times cant even get into 5th... Should I just take the shifter out and bend it with a lot of heat? Video below


#3: Not really an issue or concern just a side effect, the clutch is pretty BEEFY now. Takes a significant amount of force to use it compared to any other vehicle I've driven, assuming this is due to the increased amount of fluid I'm having to push. Not really a big deal it'll keep my left leg RIPPED.

Really I'm just concerned why my clutch is progressively not working, again. Scares me cause I just don't know what could be going on. Any and all advice is always appreciated!

 

[robmobile73]

Well... after work on Friday we went to install the new rod, I guess the cylinder got scared up at some point cause it then kept seizing into place every time it was depressed, tried honing it out with no success. So after I decided to not firebomb Wilwood HQ, I went to amazon and ordered another that arrived today! Decided to not open it up if we didn't have to. Tapped the rod to m8x1.25 and installed it... didn't work at all, the OEM Toyota little clutch fork connection lever thing is made of rubber in the inside and since this master is pushing a lot more fluid it would just fold on itself.
View attachment 3369890

So my dad went to work on the vice with a hammer, some thick metal, and a welder
View attachment 3369891

Made a thick SOLID metal fork, installed it all, bled the clutch and it runs works! No bending View attachment 3369888View attachment 3369889



So I drove it for an hour or so today before the sunset. Really have very few complaints/issues

#1: the clutch has slowly started to not disengaged fully again... Dont know why couldn't tell you, when it first started you had about an inch of play off the floor before the clutch started biting, then it became 1/2 an inch and by the end of my drive it was still moving the clutch but I was having to float through all of the gear, the clutch was more of a suggestion.
#2: My transmission has been shifted in some way that has moved the shifter forward, now going into 1st and 3rd gear I am ramming against the dash and I often times cant even get into 5th... Should I just take the shifter out and bend it with a lot of heat? Video below


#3: Not really an issue or concern just a side effect, the clutch is pretty BEEFY now. Takes a significant amount of force to use it compared to any other vehicle I've driven, assuming this is due to the increased amount of fluid I'm having to push. Not really a big deal it'll keep my left leg RIPPED.

Really I'm just concerned why my clutch is progressively not working, again. Scares me cause I just don't know what could be going on. Any and all advice is always appreciated!

Clutch gradually disengaging less??? Air getting in the fluid a little at a time? leaking fluid a little at a time proggressively worse? To me it sounds like air getting in a little at a time...................I hate dealing with hydraulics, but that being said the harbor freight air powered brake bleeder is really great compared to the old school pump and hold it method.

 

[AirheadNut]

Is the slave cylinder new or used? Could be bad seals in the slave causing the system to lose pressure. These hydraulic clutch systems are different from brakes in that the slave cylinder will auto adjust to clutch wear, keeping a certain amount of pressure on the clutch fork. When the seals in either the master or slave get worn out that will no longer happen, which will result in decreased travel of the clutch fork.

 

[jblueridge]

My transmission has been shifted in some way

Since the engine swap or just now when you felt the clutch starting to slip again?

 

[sark]

Windrock won't be the same with out the Pup.

 

[theglobb]

Clutch gradually disengaging less??? Air getting in the fluid a little at a time? leaking fluid a little at a time proggressively worse? To me it sounds like air getting in a little at a time...................I hate dealing with hydraulics, but that being said the harbor freight air powered brake bleeder is really great compared to the old school pump and hold it method.

I dont think its air, maybe I'm wrong but my 1st instinct when I couldn't get it into gear was to pump up the clutch... didn't change anything on my end, wasn't any easier to get it into gear. Thanks for a tip about the HF bleeder, I'll check it out

Is the slave cylinder new or used? Could be bad seals in the slave causing the system to lose pressure. These hydraulic clutch systems are different from brakes in that the slave cylinder will auto adjust to clutch wear, keeping a certain amount of pressure on the clutch fork. When the seals in either the master or slave get worn out that will no longer happen, which will result in decreased travel of the clutch fork.

It's new from the Japanese brand sold at Napa.

Since the engine swap or just now when you felt the clutch starting to slip again?

I haven't felt the clutch slip since I've put it all back together now. It is just slowly not disengaging fully now, progressively worse... lol as soon as I fix one issue the exact opposite decides to pop up.

Windrock won't be the same with out the Pup.

such a tragedy that I'll most likely be wheeling my troop carrier instead of my 2wd isuzu pup, long live the pup

 

[sark]

I for one am happy with this upgrade. No disrespect to the Pup though

 

[theglobb]

Well to remedy the clutch slowly backing out I just moved the fork attached to the pedal out more, felt great for all of 2 more hours of driving until I turned my car off. Came back 4 hours later and it didn’t have enough power to turn itself over… awesome! Push started it and drove it home at midnight with no lights lol.

Figured the wiring to the alternator was messed up or not done correctly cause it was charging last week just fine. Nope alternator is bad. The rectifier has failed , anyone know where to find the rectifier for a 24v 3B alternator?

It’s always something…

 

[bcsteel]

Try @crawlin cruiser

 

[thatcabledude]

Ok an update, due to everyone's advice on machining and all I decided against machining the bearing retainer that bolts to the transmission, it also helps that my friend's lathe had no way to machine it since it is such an odd shape. So I machined the chunk of metal that the throughout bearing is pressed onto to about half the thickness it was (about 2 washers worth) We also have another full cut out adapter plate that is about another washer thick that we used for testing if the plates went on before we cut 1/2in thick plates for no reason. 3 washers (ish) of room should be enough to let the pressure plate fully engage the clutch and not let it slip.
View attachment 3359914

I mightttt have been able to get away with using the Toyota MC but for the long run I went ahead and upsized to a different MC. It's the #1 best selling master cylinder on amazon and had 1-day free shipping... I'm tired of waiting for stuff. While I was at his place went ahead and used his plasma cutter to cut the big hole for the master cylinder adapter plate
View attachment 3359915View attachment 3359916


and here is the finished adapter plate for the MC.
View attachment 3359918

View attachment 3359917

Ignore the fact it has an extra set of holes, I drilled them too big to tap haha, just wasn't thinking. It's a wilwood and for $50 with free shipping... why not. Hopefully this will solve my issue of being able to move the slave enough to get into gears.



Was having a hard time to explain everything well on writing. It was 2 issues at once. One being the fact that the throughout bearing was hitting my transmission before it had fully disengaged from the pressure plate, thus causing it to slip. When I moved everything forward with the washers, then it was just enough for my slave to not move the pressure plate enough to get it into a gear, but fixed my clutch slippage issues. an endless circle jerk.


Thanks for all the useful shadetree mechanic fixes and advice you always have. If I end up making another small adapter plate/spacer I'll most likely just do a rough version with my buddies plasma cutter and clean it up from there. The washers are a very temporary thing, just to prove my dad's theory of what was happening on the inside of everything that we couldn't really see.


If for some reason all of this doesn't work, then I'll look into internal release bearings as @cruisermatt had mentioned previously

LAKAI OR DIE!

 

[robmobile73]

Well to remedy the clutch slowly backing out I just moved the fork attached to the pedal out more, felt great for all of 2 more hours of driving until I turned my car off. Came back 4 hours later and it didn’t have enough power to turn itself over… awesome! Push started it and drove it home at midnight with no lights lol.

Figured the wiring to the alternator was messed up or not done correctly cause it was charging last week just fine. Nope alternator is bad. The rectifier has failed , anyone know where to find the rectifier for a 24v 3B alternator?

View attachment 3373328

It’s always something…

Google "electric motor rewind shop Wilmington NC". I saw 3 shops one of them is likely a old school shop that can rebuild/repair your alternator, or sell you the part to do it. It may help to search Toyota forklift parts. That's how I found my starter..... Normally for a normal 12v car it's cheaper to buy a rebuilt in Mexico starter than to take it to a motor rewind shop and pay for US labor to fix it. But for something unusual they can probably help....

 

[theglobb]

I've been gone all weekend. Got home late on Sunday, worked 8-5 today, and FINALLY after work I was able to put on a spare alternator I've always had. Dont remember where I got it but its made in Malaysia and was like $150 if I remember correctly. The problem persists... either this alternator is also crap (chances are highly likely due to it being aftermarket) or my voltage regulator is shot, however, it is a very new OEM unused one that I purchased a year ago. This alternator is only charging at 25.5v and when I turn the headlights on it goes down to 25v sometimes 24.8. I'm gonna try to find my old voltage regulator and pray that that might be it. Yet I'm doubtful.

I still drove it around today since it doesn't really need any power to run, just to start it haha. I am once again very pleased with the outcome of the performance. EGT's are great and in check and it's just FAST. Ok well, it's not fast but it actually holds its own weight it's such an amazing feeling.

Google "electric motor rewind shop Wilmington NC". I saw 3 shops one of them is likely a old school shop that can rebuild/repair your alternator, or sell you the part to do it. It may help to search Toyota forklift parts. That's how I found my starter..... Normally for a normal 12v car it's cheaper to buy a rebuilt in Mexico starter than to take it to a motor rewind shop and pay for US labor to fix it. But for something unusual they can probably help....

We have a great local rebuilder who we take all the starters and alternators that fail on us, that's how I knew the rectifier was bad (didn't even know that was a part in an alternator until mine failed haha) Said there weren't any available he could find at all, and we are having trouble finding a replacement one as well. The alternator on partsouq is not what mine is, thus we don't have a parts diagram, thus we don't have a part number to even start a search for a rectifier. Usually he can find every single odd and end part but not this time.

 

[bj70bc]

coolio, engine definitely sounds a little different than a 3b-t, good stuff

 

[OGBeno]

I've been gone all weekend. Got home late on Sunday, worked 8-5 today, and FINALLY after work I was able to put on a spare alternator I've always had. Dont remember where I got it but its made in Malaysia and was like $150 if I remember correctly. The problem persists... either this alternator is also crap (chances are highly likely due to it being aftermarket) or my voltage regulator is shot, however, it is a very new OEM unused one that I purchased a year ago. This alternator is only charging at 25.5v and when I turn the headlights on it goes down to 25v sometimes 24.8. I'm gonna try to find my old voltage regulator and pray that that might be it. Yet I'm doubtful.

I still drove it around today since it doesn't really need any power to run, just to start it haha. I am once again very pleased with the outcome of the performance. EGT's are great and in check and it's just FAST. Ok well, it's not fast but it actually holds its own weight it's such an amazing feeling.




We have a great local rebuilder who we take all the starters and alternators that fail on us, that's how I knew the rectifier was bad (didn't even know that was a part in an alternator until mine failed haha) Said there weren't any available he could find at all, and we are having trouble finding a replacement one as well. The alternator on partsouq is not what mine is, thus we don't have a parts diagram, thus we don't have a part number to even start a search for a rectifier. Usually he can find every single odd and end part but not this time.

Your number is a super session which is why it’s not showing up. I looked it up. Pull up your model and year and go from there. Regarding parts.

 

[FJBen]

I've been gone all weekend. Got home late on Sunday, worked 8-5 today, and FINALLY after work I was able to put on a spare alternator I've always had. Dont remember where I got it but its made in Malaysia and was like $150 if I remember correctly. The problem persists... either this alternator is also crap (chances are highly likely due to it being aftermarket) or my voltage regulator is shot, however, it is a very new OEM unused one that I purchased a year ago. This alternator is only charging at 25.5v and when I turn the headlights on it goes down to 25v sometimes 24.8. I'm gonna try to find my old voltage regulator and pray that that might be it. Yet I'm doubtful.

I still drove it around today since it doesn't really need any power to run, just to start it haha. I am once again very pleased with the outcome of the performance. EGT's are great and in check and it's just FAST. Ok well, it's not fast but it actually holds its own weight it's such an amazing feeling.




We have a great local rebuilder who we take all the starters and alternators that fail on us, that's how I knew the rectifier was bad (didn't even know that was a part in an alternator until mine failed haha) Said there weren't any available he could find at all, and we are having trouble finding a replacement one as well. The alternator on partsouq is not what mine is, thus we don't have a parts diagram, thus we don't have a part number to even start a search for a rectifier. Usually he can find every single odd and end part but not this time.

Definitely running good in that troopy. Can’t wait for the west trip again.



I had some Voltage issues as well a few years ago. Here’s the info I found to test and adjust your voltage regulator.

Builds - 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1988-bj74-number-1.1087702/post-12543519

Might help for testing? In the end mine was bad, it was buzzing and the replacement fixed it.

 

[jblueridge]

Rectifier is a diode or something that only lets one direction of current flow to the battery.
Might be inside alternator housing and not in the regulator.
Also, newer alts have internal regulators that preclude adjustment by diy-ers.