Builds The "Red Rocket" Troopy (7 Viewers)

[robmobile73]

I've been gone all weekend. Got home late on Sunday, worked 8-5 today, and FINALLY after work I was able to put on a spare alternator I've always had. Dont remember where I got it but its made in Malaysia and was like $150 if I remember correctly. The problem persists... either this alternator is also crap (chances are highly likely due to it being aftermarket) or my voltage regulator is shot, however, it is a very new OEM unused one that I purchased a year ago. This alternator is only charging at 25.5v and when I turn the headlights on it goes down to 25v sometimes 24.8. I'm gonna try to find my old voltage regulator and pray that that might be it. Yet I'm doubtful.

I still drove it around today since it doesn't really need any power to run, just to start it haha. I am once again very pleased with the outcome of the performance. EGT's are great and in check and it's just FAST. Ok well, it's not fast but it actually holds its own weight it's such an amazing feeling.




We have a great local rebuilder who we take all the starters and alternators that fail on us, that's how I knew the rectifier was bad (didn't even know that was a part in an alternator until mine failed haha) Said there weren't any available he could find at all, and we are having trouble finding a replacement one as well. The alternator on partsouq is not what mine is, thus we don't have a parts diagram, thus we don't have a part number to even start a search for a rectifier. Usually he can find every single odd and end part but not this time.

If you have an electronic sub-component with a visible part number try these search engine: https://www.datasheets.com/en?_gl=1...Z8*MTY4OTY2MDk0OS4xLjAuMTY4OTY2MDk0OS4wLjAuMA..

Datasheet catalog for integrated circuits, diodes, triacs, and other semiconductors, view

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www.datasheetcatalog.com

We used this when I was learning and training working on electrics/electronics.

So if you're not getting enough voltage with 25.8V to keep your system up. Really probably should be charging as much as 31V. Maybe you're not driving fast enough. 70mph might not be enough. Perhaps 90mph or even 115mph. Be careful that the aerodynamic friction does't start melting the paint................LOL. Good luck!

 

[Shyrock]

Your number is a super session which is why it’s not showing up. I looked it up. Pull up your model and year and go from there. Regarding parts.

We have pulled up the model and year and had purchased an aftermarket alternator. But are not so confident in the quality and were hoping to repair the Toyota unit with a rectifier replacement. Our local Toyota dealer site shows rectifier part number 27357-54190 available for $298, but we aren't sure if that's the one used in the alternator we have (27030-56150). And we aren't sure it's actually available - need to confirm with the dealer. We could pick up a couple of aftermarket alternators as spares for that price.
I was actually hoping to find something like a Denso cross reference for the rectifier, but have been stumped so far in any cross references for the Toyota rectifier number.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

We have pulled up the model and year and had purchased an aftermarket alternator. But are not so confident in the quality and were hoping to repair the Toyota unit with a rectifier replacement. Our local Toyota dealer site shows rectifier part number 27357-54190 available for $298, but we aren't sure if that's the one used in the alternator we have (27030-56150). And we aren't sure it's actually available - need to confirm with the dealer. We could pick up a couple of aftermarket alternators as spares for that price.
I was actually hoping to find something like a Denso cross reference for the rectifier, but have been stumped so far in any cross references for the Toyota rectifier number.

P.M. sent

 

[jblueridge]

These guys rock. Rewound my alt with no whining unlike all shops in VA.
Precision Power
Maybe they can help source the rectifier.

 

[FJBen]

Is there a reason you aren’t finding a 24v NPR alternator?

I imagine the donor 4bd was a 12v, but I’m thinking you could find a 24v much easier than parts for a 24v 3b alternator.

 

[theglobb]

I have learned so much by doing this swap but if there is 1 thing I would choose to take away out of all of it is that I will never be doing another swap that doesn't have a kit already for it. This has been the bane of my existence, I will have spent the entire of my summer busy fixing this troopcarrier up. Will it be worth it in the long run? Yes. But my lord I should have just saved up the money for a NV4500 and an adapter kit.

Sorry for the precursor but the entire EVERYTHING to do about the clutch has just been non-stop issues for the past month now. Finally thought I had it all sorted but then I started feeling a possible slip... no way to really confirm it and it was a lot less extreme than before. Then 2 days ago I got a Tiny Tach in the mail, my dad helped me wire it all up and it has only confirmed my suspicions. The clutch is slipping yet again! Awesome. So I crawled under put as many possible washers in between the adapter plate and transmission to build up more clearance inside and i think it helped? Still it should be not slipping at all there is plenty of clearance, made up by the washers among the machining I did prior and the spacer plate we added.


Sadly looking back at today I think the clutch disk has been contaminated with some sort of oil leak inside of the bell housing area, there should be PLENTY of clearance so that the pressure plate is fully disengaged yet its still slipping when you gas it at full throttle. I also think looking back that it wasn't slipping at all a week ago... you could go full throttle and it would slowly build up, now it just slips when you stomp on it. This is only more confirmed by what I found inside the bellhosuing when I took off the rubber fork cover, tons of oily s***.


And my 2nd alternator has fully gave up now lol

Rectifier is a diode or something that only lets one direction of current flow to the battery.
Might be inside alternator housing and not in the regulator.
Also, newer alts have internal regulators that preclude adjustment by diy-ers.

yes it is within the alternator, sorry about the confusion. Trying to say that the issue could be a multitude of different things all together or just 1 thing separate. Maybe the regulator is bad or maybe both the alterantors...

So if you're not getting enough voltage with 25.8V to keep your system up. Really probably should be charging as much as 31V. Maybe you're not driving fast enough. 70mph might not be enough. Perhaps 90mph or even 115mph. Be careful that the aerodynamic friction does't start melting the paint................LOL. Good luck!

HA, nothing like running 115mph down my residential neighborhood road just in order to keep my headlights on "for safety"

These guys rock. Rewound my alt with no whining unlike all shops in VA.
Precision Power
Maybe they can help source the rectifier.

Thank you, will totally look into it.

Is there a reason you aren’t finding a 24v NPR alternator?

I imagine the donor 4bd was a 12v, but I’m thinking you could find a 24v much easier than parts for a 24v 3b alternator.

This is a very valid point, main reason was I didn't want to mess with any wiring whatsoever and the 3B alternator is like a direct bolt up to the 4BD1T. The secondary reason is I can only find the alibaba special Chinese ones all over the internet. Would much rather want some sort of quality OEM product but don't want to have to pay $1000 for something ya know?

 

[theglobb]

In case you do not want to read all of that mumbo jumbo, my guess is some stupid seal let loose after I put 100 miles or so on the swap, contaminating the clutch and causing it to slip once again cause it wasn't slipping 2 days ago and it maybe was starting to yesterday? Among other electrical issues which is mighty impressive as there are only like 3 major things in the entire car's electrical system at this point

 

[robmobile73]

I have learned so much by doing this swap but if there is 1 thing I would choose to take away out of all of it is that I will never be doing another swap that doesn't have a kit already for it. This has been the bane of my existence, I will have spent the entire of my summer busy fixing this troopcarrier up. Will it be worth it in the long run? Yes. But my lord I should have just saved up the money for a NV4500 and an adapter kit.

Sorry for the precursor but the entire EVERYTHING to do about the clutch has just been non-stop issues for the past month now. Finally thought I had it all sorted but then I started feeling a possible slip... no way to really confirm it and it was a lot less extreme than before. Then 2 days ago I got a Tiny Tach in the mail, my dad helped me wire it all up and it has only confirmed my suspicions. The clutch is slipping yet again! Awesome. So I crawled under put as many possible washers in between the adapter plate and transmission to build up more clearance inside and i think it helped? Still it should be not slipping at all there is plenty of clearance, made up by the washers among the machining I did prior and the spacer plate we added.


Sadly looking back at today I think the clutch disk has been contaminated with some sort of oil leak inside of the bell housing area, there should be PLENTY of clearance so that the pressure plate is fully disengaged yet its still slipping when you gas it at full throttle. I also think looking back that it wasn't slipping at all a week ago... you could go full throttle and it would slowly build up, now it just slips when you stomp on it. This is only more confirmed by what I found inside the bellhosuing when I took off the rubber fork cover, tons of oily s***.


And my 2nd alternator has fully gave up now lol


yes it is within the alternator, sorry about the confusion. Trying to say that the issue could be a multitude of different things all together or just 1 thing separate. Maybe the regulator is bad or maybe both the alterantors...

HA, nothing like running 115mph down my residential neighborhood road just in order to keep my headlights on "for safety"

Thank you, will totally look into it.

This is a very valid point, main reason was I didn't want to mess with any wiring whatsoever and the 3B alternator is like a direct bolt up to the 4BD1T. The secondary reason is I can only find the alibaba special Chinese ones all over the internet. Would much rather want some sort of quality OEM product but don't want to have to pay $1000 for something ya know?

In case you do not want to read all of that mumbo jumbo, my guess is some stupid seal let loose after I put 100 miles or so on the swap, contaminating the clutch and causing it to slip once again cause it wasn't slipping 2 days ago and it maybe was starting to yesterday? Among other electrical issues which is mighty impressive as there are only like 3 major things in the entire car's electrical system at this point

Call up one of those rewind shops. With electrics/electronics it often doesn't have to be the same part provided it does the same thing within parameters. You may get lucky to find one of those old bearded guys that chain smokes while working and knows everything because he's been doing it for 30 years. You'll have to go there with the alternator and talk face to face not on the phone. Just use the phone to confirm they can maybe fix/rebuild your "rare 24v alternator's.

 

[AirheadNut]

Definitely looks like you've got some kind of oil leak. Did you smell the oil? The two main suspects would be transmission input shaft or engine rear main seal. The difference should be pretty obvious by smell. Unfortunately if the clutch has any significant oil on it (which it probably does judging by the slippage) you'll need to replace it.

 

[bj70bc]

Fun and games!
when you think things are bad, and then get even worse, and you still overcome... those are the best wins

 

[FJBen]

In case you do not want to read all of that mumbo jumbo, my guess is some stupid seal let loose after I put 100 miles or so on the swap, contaminating the clutch and causing it to slip once again cause it wasn't slipping 2 days ago and it maybe was starting to yesterday? Among other electrical issues which is mighty impressive as there are only like 3 major things in the entire car's electrical system at this point

As @AirheadNut stated, smell the oil. Gear oil is very distinct and you should be able to tell.

If it’s gear oil, you can pretty much count on it being that input seal on the h55f.

If engine oil Probabaly rear main seal, the only way to know is you guessed it…pull the transmission again.

 

[theglobb]

Did you smell the oil? The two main suspects would be transmission input shaft or engine rear main seal. The difference should be pretty obvious by smell. Unfortunately if the clutch has any significant oil on it (which it probably does judging by the slippage) you'll need to replace it.

Yes I tried smelling it, oddly enough it had no noticeable smell. Usually diesel oil is distinct and obviously gear oil is, couldn't smell anything. Since the clutch is already toast I found the biggest up hill and just roasted it up the hill going a low speed in a high gear. Afterwards it smelled of burning gear oil mixed with clutch. I guess that's my lead.

If engine oil Probabaly rear main seal, the only way to know is you guessed it…pull the transmission again.

Never have pulled the transmission before in the troopy, just have done the engine 27 times lol. I think I will be giving it a shot though, as all the electrical and liquids are all hooked up. Why not broaden my horizon on stuff I could do in emergencies.

Fun and games!
when you think things are bad, and then get even worse, and you still overcome... those are the best wins

Fun fact it got even worse. I was planning on just leaving town for the week to forget all of my mechanical mishaps and to visit my girlfriend up in the much cooler mountains of North Carolina, driving my old 300TD wagon along, and as I pull into the gas station I see a massive line of black oil trailing right to my car. Figured a turbo feed line came loose. Nope, rear main seal blew out... at this point I'm not even angry or sad it's just comical.

I was planning on pulling the engine as it looks super simple, but the OM617 uses a rope seal for the rear main which requires dropping the crankshaft out of the engine to replace it, which at that point I might aswell put new pistons and rings in and at that point I might aswell just have the block machined and at that point might aswell just redo the whole engine... which I don't have the time or money to do. So I have it up for sale, hopefully, can get 3-4 grand for it, put it towards the troopy. Looking back it was a sweet rig, I've put 7,000 miles on it in the past 5 months and I bought it for $400... really can't go too wrong at that point.


Anyways all parts are ordered to seal up the input shaft leak I suspect I have, and a new clutch... maybe they will be here by next weekend! Would be pretty sweet.

 

[robmobile73]

Yes I tried smelling it, oddly enough it had no noticeable smell. Usually diesel oil is distinct and obviously gear oil is, couldn't smell anything. Since the clutch is already toast I found the biggest up hill and just roasted it up the hill going a low speed in a high gear. Afterwards it smelled of burning gear oil mixed with clutch. I guess that's my lead.

Never have pulled the transmission before in the troopy, just have done the engine 27 times lol. I think I will be giving it a shot though, as all the electrical and liquids are all hooked up. Why not broaden my horizon on stuff I could do in emergencies.

Fun fact it got even worse. I was planning on just leaving town for the week to forget all of my mechanical mishaps and to visit my girlfriend up in the much cooler mountains of North Carolina, driving my old 300TD wagon along, and as I pull into the gas station I see a massive line of black oil trailing right to my car. Figured a turbo feed line came loose. Nope, rear main seal blew out... at this point I'm not even angry or sad it's just comical.

View attachment 3379877


I was planning on pulling the engine as it looks super simple, but the OM617 uses a rope seal for the rear main which requires dropping the crankshaft out of the engine to replace it, which at that point I might aswell put new pistons and rings in and at that point I might aswell just have the block machined and at that point might aswell just redo the whole engine... which I don't have the time or money to do. So I have it up for sale, hopefully, can get 3-4 grand for it, put it towards the troopy. Looking back it was a sweet rig, I've put 7,000 miles on it in the past 5 months and I bought it for $400... really can't go too wrong at that point.


Anyways all parts are ordered to seal up the input shaft leak I suspect I have, and a new clutch... maybe they will be here by next weekend! Would be pretty sweet.

When you do your own work and working on your car doesn't take time away from making money elsewhere, you're in a entirely different economic world from most...............My 400 chevy spun a bearing on 1X rod halfway across the country in a cross country trip...I drained the oil, dropped the pan, found the bearing and replaced(even though parts were still too hot to touch for long), bolted it back together, poured the old oil back in and was back on the road in less than 2 hours...............She held another 2K miles before ticking again... Noone pays people to do this sort of thing, but you can do it if you do it yourself......You don't need to do all that other work involving money. New seal and drive on, or keep adding oil................You could put some sort of oil leak seal "monkey juice" in the oil in the hopes it stops leaking prior to trying to sell it. Who knows it might be as good as the "head gasket sealer" additive...........So many have learned so much buy your efforts. Good Luck!

 

[theglobb]

When you do your own work and working on your car doesn't take time away from making money elsewhere, you're in a entirely different economic world from most...............My 400 chevy spun a bearing on 1X rod halfway across the country in a cross country trip...I drained the oil, dropped the pan, found the bearing and replaced(even though parts were still too hot to touch for long), bolted it back together, poured the old oil back in and was back on the road in less than 2 hours...............She held another 2K miles before ticking again... Noone pays people to do this sort of thing, but you can do it if you do it yourself......You don't need to do all that other work involving money. New seal and drive on, or keep adding oil................You could put some sort of oil leak seal "monkey juice" in the oil in the hopes it stops leaking prior to trying to sell it. Who knows it might be as good as the "head gasket sealer" additive...........So many have learned so much buy your efforts. Good Luck!

Thanks for the kind words and advice as always. Looking back at it, the engine has always produced a ton of blowby, just like my 3B, but always started just fine and ran pretty well. My guess is the hose I had set up off the valve cover to direct all the oily mess downwards to the ground got kinked or clogged in some way, pressure built up and my rear main blew out some, this is also backed up due to oil coming out of my oil fill cap which it has never done before and my freshly installed valve cover gasket which hasn't leaked either. Pulled the hose off, then my massive leak slowed down to about 1/4 of what it was before. No longer pissing oil out but just leaving a big mark everywhere I park it.

I always use Rotella T5 in everything but I'm gonna put some T4 in it this time and see if I can thicken it up with Lucas Oil Stabilizer. If the leak slows down to near nothing then I'll keep it. If it continues, I'll tidy it up, get the interior nice, and sell it to someone who wants to put the effort and time into it or just keep filling it up with oil and staining everyone's driveways. Honestly would be pretty nice to have some spare change in my pocket.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Thanks for the kind words and advice as always. Looking back at it, the engine has always produced a ton of blowby, just like my 3B, but always started just fine and ran pretty well. My guess is the hose I had set up off the valve cover to direct all the oily mess downwards to the ground got kinked or clogged in some way, pressure built up and my rear main blew out some, this is also backed up due to oil coming out of my oil fill cap which it has never done before and my freshly installed valve cover gasket which hasn't leaked either. Pulled the hose off, then my massive leak slowed down to about 1/4 of what it was before. No longer pissing oil out but just leaving a big mark everywhere I park it.

I always use Rotella T5 in everything but I'm gonna put some T4 in it this time and see if I can thicken it up with Lucas Oil Stabilizer. If the leak slows down to near nothing then I'll keep it. If it continues, I'll tidy it up, get the interior nice, and sell it to someone who wants to put the effort and time into it or just keep filling it up with oil and staining everyone's driveways. Honestly would be pretty nice to have some spare change in my pocket.

View attachment 3382263

I hear you on the spare change! I have always loved those Mercedes wagons! they are pretty cool! you should not have too much trouble getting it sold. If I had the cash I would buy it but Rachael and I are pinching cash right now. stinks on the rear mains. The automotive gods have been unkind.

 

[robmobile73]

Thanks for the kind words and advice as always. Looking back at it, the engine has always produced a ton of blowby, just like my 3B, but always started just fine and ran pretty well. My guess is the hose I had set up off the valve cover to direct all the oily mess downwards to the ground got kinked or clogged in some way, pressure built up and my rear main blew out some, this is also backed up due to oil coming out of my oil fill cap which it has never done before and my freshly installed valve cover gasket which hasn't leaked either. Pulled the hose off, then my massive leak slowed down to about 1/4 of what it was before. No longer pissing oil out but just leaving a big mark everywhere I park it.

I always use Rotella T5 in everything but I'm gonna put some T4 in it this time and see if I can thicken it up with Lucas Oil Stabilizer. If the leak slows down to near nothing then I'll keep it. If it continues, I'll tidy it up, get the interior nice, and sell it to someone who wants to put the effort and time into it or just keep filling it up with oil and staining everyone's driveways. Honestly would be pretty nice to have some spare change in my pocket.

View attachment 3382263

Having owned and worked on a 123 series mercedes diesel give you quite a bit of "Street Cred" in the diesel world...........they truly are fine automobiles. I had a 300CD and a 240D with 4 speed stickshift. Whatever you end up doing, cheap oil and stop leak can get you a long way. 80% solution with oil is to have oil to pump, 95% is to have enough oil, having the correct oil is minutia in comparison. ............On that note, if you work or know someone in a auto repair shop and have access to used oil you could carry around a 2-5 gal gas can full of used motor oil and keep topping off the 300TD. Chances are you could keep it going for many years this way if you wanted to. You could at least keep it going till you graduate and get settled into a good paying job. The leaking oil also prevents underbody rust, and keeps environmental activist employed to bitch about pollution.

 

[saltycoconuts]

Buy a Prius so you can always get someplace. It’s not cool or even interesting.

One must admit, the new Prius is pretty cool. Memory vented and heated seats, awd, and 50mpg.

For under 40k this is the way.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

No one has said what they should have eons ago before you started wasting your time on random engines and clutch slaves and etc…


Buy a Prius so you can always get someplace. It’s not cool or even interesting. But it starts up every time and you can still go have fun with your friends, GFs, etc.

I bought a Prius and it’s been my life saver when I have had zero luck with my s*** box Land Cruisers. Or, I just don’t care about my stupid truck and I want go hang out with my friends and get laid and not worry about my hunk of junk lawn art I own…

I can’t believe how much time you’ve wasted. I kinda feel for you but at the same time I kinda laugh every time something like this comes up. You literally have done everything as difficult as you can do it.

I rode a bicycle in college 34 years ago. It was awesome.

Hear that perspective and appreciate your perspective. You have been through it and can look back at it. Its not where the @theglobb is in life. Mistakes or mishaps are teachers of life just as the adventures in a Prius. I frankly like that he revels in it and is better from it. Lots of kids his out there that dont lift more than their thumbs on a miniature screen. He has done more than many of them in trying things. Provided its safe, trial by fire works. I grew up that way and enjoy who I have become. Its his way and journey. Carry on!

 

[bj70bc]

One must admit, the new Prius is pretty cool. Memory vented and heated seats, awd, and 50mpg.

For under 40k this is the way.

View attachment 3382985

too bad it doesnt have a 70 series lc body on it

 

[bj70bc]

No one has said what they should have eons ago before you started wasting your time on random engines and clutch slaves and etc…


Buy a Prius so you can always get someplace. It’s not cool or even interesting. But it starts up every time and you can still go have fun with your friends, GFs, etc.

I bought a Prius and it’s been my life saver when I have had zero luck with my s*** box Land Cruisers. Or, I just don’t care about my stupid truck and I want go hang out with my friends and get laid and not worry about my hunk of junk lawn art I own…

I can’t believe how much time you’ve wasted. I kinda feel for you but at the same time I kinda laugh every time something like this comes up. You literally have done everything as difficult as you can do it.

I rode a bicycle in college 34 years ago. It was awesome.

globbs killin it!
life just has a way of sayin, 'ohhh you think so eh'..... then you overcome