Yep, sometimes it works out cheaper from another country, sometimes not, worth a check definitely.
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
- Start date
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yotahed
Diesel Head
We only send certain things out, but almost everything is done here or in kamloops
The odd thing we will send to GCL in edmonton.
The thing that kills austrailia is the shipping.
Its about 800-1000 CAN for complete teardown rebuild with new parts and testing, depending on what it needs. If the head has any wear, its probably the most expensive item. Anything else is fairly cheap.
Obviously less for just a reseal and testing/calibration.
The odd thing we will send to GCL in edmonton.
The thing that kills austrailia is the shipping.
Its about 800-1000 CAN for complete teardown rebuild with new parts and testing, depending on what it needs. If the head has any wear, its probably the most expensive item. Anything else is fairly cheap.
Obviously less for just a reseal and testing/calibration.
I've got a perfectly good 10mm pump, I'm looking at price options for a 12mm
Hell...even though Denso is just down the road I may ship my injectors for you to do....
yup saw this coming . let me know by pm if you need any cam plates for test grinding for re-stroking. hope you keep up the hp side of things ,seems most who do work with the 1hdt only fix or renew . ive seen first hand what potentail fuel and air mods can do. any your buddies into turbo guts, seems china makes a reliable core for cheap that alot of turbo biulders are useing for a hp turbo core.
Just curious, I'm looking at moving from a 1HZ 10mm VE to the 11 or 12, but before I do I want to be sure I've hit the wall on my 10
Apart from the well known tweaks/mods possible on the 10mm VE boost compensator plus max fuel screw and WOT,
Apart from the well known tweaks/mods possible on the 10mm VE boost compensator plus max fuel screw and WOT,
- What other mods are possible to these pumps?
- Grinding cam plates makes sense but I can't find the info, it's tricky getting parts so I'm hesitant to trial and error without a bit of a guide
- I'm about to do my pump timing as part of a teardown, 1.03?, 1.06? or 1.09?
- Same deal with tappets - which end of the ranges would be best?
- Thread starter
- #148
Honestly the 10mm pump is good to roughly 110rwkw aka 150 rwhp.
I'm set to 1.09 but I don't have a clue how the others would be in comparison to this.
You'll keep your tappets in the stock settings.....
I'm set to 1.09 but I don't have a clue how the others would be in comparison to this.
You'll keep your tappets in the stock settings.....
Wicked, I've kind of had this picture in my head of the 200hp/5000rpm (totally doable) but I'm pulling back a bit now. With ceramic coating everything I'm swinging back towards longevity, so i'd really like to max out everything I have and see where I stand.
Timing, I came across a guy posting to target 1.06 as when you head closer to 1.09 the motor gets noisy. What's your experience? I would have throught max (1.09) would be best in terms of - longer stroke, longer squirt/ volume
Tappets, as above, when given a range, which end or the middle?
Timing, I came across a guy posting to target 1.06 as when you head closer to 1.09 the motor gets noisy. What's your experience? I would have throught max (1.09) would be best in terms of - longer stroke, longer squirt/ volume
Tappets, as above, when given a range, which end or the middle?
yotahed
Diesel Head
On Cam Plates,
Youre basically good with your srock cam plate, or you could go with a 1HDT plate. The cam plate controls the injection pressure and duration of the stroke. If you start customizing, chances are youll be way out of whack, because they tolerances are quite high. Too much lift and your line pressure would increase to the point where youre duration would be far too long without seriously increasing your injector pop. And thats without even changing the duration at the plate.
Changing the shim between the plate and plunger would be a better bet, as it would only change the lift and your duration would stay the same. And it only takes a few minutes to swap. As opposed to getting a custom profile made and not be happy with the results.
Bosch is quite secretive about certain specs of certain things(denso is no different). So it would be difficult without several known plates side by side with a dial guage to compare.
Wronwayaround, ill pm you.
Timing,
If 1.09 is too clangly for you, back it off to 1.06 and call it good. Too much advance can be hard on things, but i cant see the high end of spec doing damage. Its probably a conservative high spec anyhow....
Injectors, i always set stuff to the high side of a given spec, since things wear and loosen over time (especially injectors). The 1HDT high spec is 2702 psi for the main pop, and thats what i aim for, or a little higher. I like to keep the spread % below spec so theyll usually be set within 1% or less of 2700 if i can help it. Im kind of picky that way..
If you want them at a higher pop than stock, just let me know and Ill set them to your preference. For custom pumps and high hp guys.
Turbos
We stock and deal with KTS billet comp wheels (very cool) IHI cartridges, as well as International Turbo(i think thats what its called) for replacement parts. All high quality stuff. All stock OEM parts can be had as well. We have done a few chinese parts jobs in the past with good results as well.
That was a long post.....
Youre basically good with your srock cam plate, or you could go with a 1HDT plate. The cam plate controls the injection pressure and duration of the stroke. If you start customizing, chances are youll be way out of whack, because they tolerances are quite high. Too much lift and your line pressure would increase to the point where youre duration would be far too long without seriously increasing your injector pop. And thats without even changing the duration at the plate.
Changing the shim between the plate and plunger would be a better bet, as it would only change the lift and your duration would stay the same. And it only takes a few minutes to swap. As opposed to getting a custom profile made and not be happy with the results.
Bosch is quite secretive about certain specs of certain things(denso is no different). So it would be difficult without several known plates side by side with a dial guage to compare.
Wronwayaround, ill pm you.
Timing,
If 1.09 is too clangly for you, back it off to 1.06 and call it good. Too much advance can be hard on things, but i cant see the high end of spec doing damage. Its probably a conservative high spec anyhow....
Injectors, i always set stuff to the high side of a given spec, since things wear and loosen over time (especially injectors). The 1HDT high spec is 2702 psi for the main pop, and thats what i aim for, or a little higher. I like to keep the spread % below spec so theyll usually be set within 1% or less of 2700 if i can help it. Im kind of picky that way..
If you want them at a higher pop than stock, just let me know and Ill set them to your preference. For custom pumps and high hp guys.
Turbos
We stock and deal with KTS billet comp wheels (very cool) IHI cartridges, as well as International Turbo(i think thats what its called) for replacement parts. All high quality stuff. All stock OEM parts can be had as well. We have done a few chinese parts jobs in the past with good results as well.
That was a long post.....
But a good post, thanks Yota
So is this it for a stock 10mm VE with BC?
Rotate the fuel pin to max for on boost fuel
Detention the spring on the wheel to bring it in sooner (clockwise)
Start with a 1/4 turn on the off boost fuel screw
Ensure the diaphragm washer is able to enter the tube for fuel pin full range of travel
Shim the pin height +/- for full boost fuel limits
Make sure you are getting WOT
System
Ceramic coated (turbine) GT2871
Plenty of cooling on a massive WTA system (3" in/out)
100mm plenum inlet manifold
performance log exhaust manifold
ported and polished ceramic coated head
3" from the turbo flange
Turbo inlet EGT
On board AFR
At this point I'm hoping to get the max out of everything, tuned to 20psi and 20:1 AFR
So is this it for a stock 10mm VE with BC?
Rotate the fuel pin to max for on boost fuel
Detention the spring on the wheel to bring it in sooner (clockwise)
Start with a 1/4 turn on the off boost fuel screw
Ensure the diaphragm washer is able to enter the tube for fuel pin full range of travel
Shim the pin height +/- for full boost fuel limits
Make sure you are getting WOT
System
Ceramic coated (turbine) GT2871
Plenty of cooling on a massive WTA system (3" in/out)
100mm plenum inlet manifold
performance log exhaust manifold
ported and polished ceramic coated head
3" from the turbo flange
Turbo inlet EGT
On board AFR
At this point I'm hoping to get the max out of everything, tuned to 20psi and 20:1 AFR
- Thread starter
- #152
@dadinabarrel
Your timing will be exactly the same as spec running a boost comp.
Your boost comp will clean up your AFRs throughout the range and add fuel accordingly depending on the boost given to it.
I think you should aim to tune your boost comp properly or its going to be a sooty mess.
Your timing will be exactly the same as spec running a boost comp.
Your boost comp will clean up your AFRs throughout the range and add fuel accordingly depending on the boost given to it.
I think you should aim to tune your boost comp properly or its going to be a sooty mess.
Thanks Forealboreal
yotahed
Diesel Head
You can mark the fuel pin with a marker where it rides, reassemble and pressure it up to your max boost pressure via a regulator off a small compressor. Move from min to max pressure a few times and disassmble and the marker should wear off where the needle pin has been contacting. You want the pin to travel to just before the top of the cone on the fuel pin. That will be your max on-boost fuel at max boost pressure. If the wear line only goes 3/4 up the cone, then you still have a little more high end fuel left.
You can also find or make yourself a spare pin to modify and tune by grinding or dremeling a steeper ramp or a custom profiles for different mid low and high instead of a simple cone. This is referenced earlier in the thread i believe.
Have a look at some cummins fuel pins for ideas and characteristics they offer.
You can also find or make yourself a spare pin to modify and tune by grinding or dremeling a steeper ramp or a custom profiles for different mid low and high instead of a simple cone. This is referenced earlier in the thread i believe.
Have a look at some cummins fuel pins for ideas and characteristics they offer.
Thanks man, yeah, I've got pin mods in the back of my mind. Once I get all the basics done, I'll have a tinker with that as well.
So this one is able to go up to the top of that flat section (and over onto the full fuel side) so less spring pre load required?
So this one is able to go up to the top of that flat section (and over onto the full fuel side) so less spring pre load required?
yotahed
Diesel Head
is that the deepest profile of the pin? Its eccentric, as you may know already, turn it so the deepest part faces the front of the pump. the flat area can be ground deeper still, as it wont offer any more fuel once it hits the flat area. since your travel is almost 3/4 up the flat part, try filing away a bit to match the taper up to that point. you can also move the depth where your fuel starts, farther down on the pin. your a little over halfway up at your off-boost fuel. move that depth down to the bottom(grind) and proggressively profile the pin deeper to the top. this will give you a broader range of fueling throughout the rev range and you have more area to work a profile of your choice into. this would require backing off your top screw(off boost fuel) and slacking off the preload a bit to utilize the entire travel of the profile. have a look at some cummins pins. will give you a good place to start for ideas.
I would start by buying a 2nd pin and modding that before grinding yours too much. just rotate so the deepest part is to the front of the pump to start, and go from there.
I would start by buying a 2nd pin and modding that before grinding yours too much. just rotate so the deepest part is to the front of the pump to start, and go from there.
I'm onthe lookout for a 10mm now 
So my pictures are on here so I thought I would add the rest of them to help increase the understanding of these pumps. My engines are Yanmar marine engines, but they are the same 4.2 liter Toyota engines you all have in your Landcruisers, they have just been marinized and make about 315 hp. I have messed around with the position of my pins, spring preload and diaphragm cover.
My pin is a number 21 so I am also wondering how many different pins Denso made and what effect different pin would have on the engines. I added a FASS fuel pump to my boat and picked up 2 mph and the acceleration also improved, I think that it helped the pump timing and having clean air free 15psi fuel to the injection pump cant hurt.
I also took a few photos of my pins with measurements maybe somebody can provide some more info. I only learned what I know by trail and error.
My pin is a number 21 so I am also wondering how many different pins Denso made and what effect different pin would have on the engines. I added a FASS fuel pump to my boat and picked up 2 mph and the acceleration also improved, I think that it helped the pump timing and having clean air free 15psi fuel to the injection pump cant hurt.
I also took a few photos of my pins with measurements maybe somebody can provide some more info. I only learned what I know by trail and error.
