The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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So are the Yanmar Pin 21 an off the shelf item, or aftermarket?
I have an new pin sitting here that i just ordered from Denso... I'll get it out and take the same measurements you just did... it might give us a basis for comparison.
I wonder if getting a motor from Yannmar is cheaper than one from Toyota...
Dan
I wonder if getting a motor from Yannmar is cheaper than one from Toyota...
Dan
ok no measurements yet, but both of mine are stamped 92 on the bottom... measurements forthcoming as soon as I get my calipers and camera together.
Dan
Dan
I stopped by a local diesel injection shop here in Miami, one of the best by reputation, and they didn't have any spare pins lying around and also said that without a part number they wouldn't be able to order anything from Denso. They also didn't know what the numbers referred to, the person I spoke to maybe wasn't the most knowledgeable person there but who knows.
How did you order from Denso, they must have a list of all the different pin specs somewhere. A new Yanmar 6LP costs around $30,000 I think, I imagine the Toyota is cheaper. Maybe you could buy a used or rebuilt Yanmar fuel injection pump to swap onto the truck.
I went into the parts store here and after about 45 min of miscommunication pointing at my tablet and phone, comparing my part breakdown to the one on the Part store computer. We decided to order the pin. Most of this would have been easier if I spoke Japanese or the part storable guy spoke English. Lucky for me he happens to be a Landcruiser fan. The joy of living in Okinawa!
Cheers,
Dan
Cheers,
Dan
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I've been through this thread a few times but can someone tell me how to turn down the off-boost fuel on a 1HD-FT? I'm running an intercooler and a stock turbo set at 12psi. I have turned up my main fuel screw and my EGT's don't go above 650 deg Celsius (pre-turbo) under maximum load. I do get a pretty big puff of black smoke before the turbo cleans it up if I floor it and would like to see if I can bring this down a bit. To be honest it doesnt worry me a huge amount but I'd like to stay fairly civil in my neighborhood if possible.. 
The Yanmar 6LP engines correlate to the 1HDFTs, with quite some differences though (which we found out when putting a new 6LP into my truck.
The pump is calibrated differently to move more fuel and has a 14mm plunger. Also the pumps do not have the hole that is needed for the rpm sensor, but the pump housing can easily be swapped.
The pistons look quite different-they look like they have a little volcano in the middle.
The valve cover is on with a different gasket (looking almost like the 1HDFTE gasket) and more bolts to hold it down.
Obviously the intake is completely different, therefore the injection lines and the water jackets are different.
Having said that, all the stuff needed to convert them to a bolt-in engine for an 80 series swap right over, so it is easy.
And once you haver that thing in your truck, with the high flow pump calibrated for a G-turbo, it will accelerate like no other engine and easily outrun a 1FZE 80 series, while returning 20mpg.
The pump is calibrated differently to move more fuel and has a 14mm plunger. Also the pumps do not have the hole that is needed for the rpm sensor, but the pump housing can easily be swapped.
The pistons look quite different-they look like they have a little volcano in the middle.
The valve cover is on with a different gasket (looking almost like the 1HDFTE gasket) and more bolts to hold it down.
Obviously the intake is completely different, therefore the injection lines and the water jackets are different.
Having said that, all the stuff needed to convert them to a bolt-in engine for an 80 series swap right over, so it is easy.
And once you haver that thing in your truck, with the high flow pump calibrated for a G-turbo, it will accelerate like no other engine and easily outrun a 1FZE 80 series, while returning 20mpg.
yotahed
Diesel Head
Your off boost adjustment is on the top of the aneroid cover. Very top of the pump. Back it out to decrease off boost fuel delivery. A half turn to a full turn is usually sufficient.
yotahed
Diesel Head
Makes me want to skip the 12mm performance pump build and go straight to a 14mm....
The cam plate ontop of the compensator push rod only adjusts spring preload. Doesn't do much at all. Best to adjust the star wheel.
A 12mm Pump is capable of supplying enough fuel for 40psi, with a bit of work. 14mm is way over kill. I'll be making a 13mm in the near future.
A 12mm Pump is capable of supplying enough fuel for 40psi, with a bit of work. 14mm is way over kill. I'll be making a 13mm in the near future.
yotahed
Diesel Head
The star wheel adjusts the spring preload and the screw on top of the compensator adjusts off boost/initial fueling position of the pin. Useful when using custom ground pins. The star wheel adjusts how fast the pin reacts to boost, turned out/up would load the spring up tighter, down/in would be less preload.
Most pumps dont have a cam plate, they have a locknut and a screw that contacts the middle of the diaphragm or slightly offset of center. Most aftermarket pumps discard the cam in lieu of more adjustability.
If you re building custom pumps, you should be aware of this I would think.
Are you affiliated with XXI bigboy?
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