The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (1 Viewer)

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To add to what @Socal81 said, you might be working from the wrong direction. Here is how I would approach this issue.

1) polish that pin up to allow smooth travel
2) pull back the fuel to make the truck drivable from an EGT standpoint. I would be very aggressive here as the following steps will increase fuel with boost so you can lean it out pretty hard here.
3) mark the pin and start adjusting your star wheel to allow for proper pin travel (to the deepest part of the pin cutout) without going into fuel cutoff. It took me about 10 tries to get the travel right with my max boost of around 18psi.
4) readjust fuel little by little to get to the egts you want under full throttle and load.
5) If you get good egts and drivability/power, but want to adjust the top end to not get as hot, add back shims to stop pin downward travel. If you are still sluggish at low RPMs, then you can adjust the cam in the top cover of the compensator to up the low boost fuel. Both the cam and shims will affect low and high without without affecting the settings that affect the fueling profile between the two. This is nice if you find a nice fuel setting that has good egts all the way up to full boost, but need more low end. I prefer this setup as I am not afraid of running away and having more room to adjust fuel as boost climbs.

In short, lean way out and make sure your pin is doing what it's supposed to and work backwards to bring power and egts up. I found it was hard to try to get proper compensation by trying to start from too hot/rich and work back to safe operation.
 
BreckenridgeCruiser said:
To add to what @Socal81 said, you might be working from the wrong direction. Here is how I would approach this issue.

1) polish that pin up to allow smooth travel
2) pull back the fuel to make the truck drivable from an EGT standpoint. I would be very aggressive here as the following steps will increase fuel with boost so you can lean it out pretty hard here.
3) mark the pin and start adjusting your star wheel to allow for proper pin travel (to the deepest part of the pin cutout) without going into fuel cutoff. It took me about 10 tries to get the travel right with my max boost of around 18psi.
4) readjust fuel little by little to get to the egts you want under full throttle and load.
5) If you get good egts and drivability/power, but want to adjust the top end to not get as hot, add back shims to stop pin downward travel. If you are still sluggish at low RPMs, then you can adjust the cam in the top cover of the compensator to up the low boost fuel. Both the cam and shims will affect low and high without without affecting the settings that affect the fueling profile between the two. This is nice if you find a nice fuel setting that has good egts all the way up to full boost, but need more low end. I prefer this setup as I am not afraid of running away and having more room to adjust fuel as boost climbs.

In short, lean way out and make sure your pin is doing what it's supposed to and work backwards to bring power and egts up. I found it was hard to try to get proper compensation by trying to start from too hot/rich and work back to safe operation.
Click to expand...
This is a solid info. @KiwiDingo always tried to get me to tune like this by tuning the main fuel screw first with no compensator in to get max safe EGT under WOT. Then tune my compensator as more of a fuel removal method rather than thinking of it as adding fuel. I have still yet to try this method and I’m going to try it on mine. For whatever reason it starting to make much more sense to me.
 
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@Socal81 and @KiwiDingo the only question I have with tuning the fuel with the pin out is probably a dumb one. Do you just put the cover back on the compensator and just plug/disconnect the hose to it? I assume you don't leave the hose connected without the pin as I assume you'd pressurize the pump (bad). So how do you plug the hose effectively? I'd assume a vacuum cap would just pop off so zip ties?
 
BreckenridgeCruiser said:
@Socal81 and @KiwiDingo the only question I have with tuning the fuel with the pin out is probably a dumb one. Do you just put the cover back on the compensator and just plug/disconnect the hose to it? I assume you don't leave the hose connected without the pin as I assume you'd pressurize the pump (bad). So how do you plug the hose effectively? I'd assume a vacuum cap would just pop off so zip ties?
Click to expand...
I know what you mean. Yea I leave the pin in and the diaphragm but I remove the spring. I leave the boost reference line on and it just shoves the pin all the way down or you can just push it down before reinstalling the the cover.

Make sense?

I guess by removing the pin I mainly mean I remove it from the equation by allowing it to ride all the way down without the spring pushing it back up off boost.

I was under the assumption the pump and setup from ADS should have came ready to go with the green wheel. It’s a shame so much tweaking has to even be done.
 
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BreckenridgeCruiser said:
@Socal81 and @KiwiDingo the only question I have with tuning the fuel with the pin out is probably a dumb one. Do you just put the cover back on the compensator and just plug/disconnect the hose to it? I assume you don't leave the hose connected without the pin as I assume you'd pressurize the pump (bad). So how do you plug the hose effectively? I'd assume a vacuum cap would just pop off so zip ties?
Click to expand...
I just remove the whole pin, spring and diaphragm assembly then put the cover back on. You can't pressurise the pump as below where the diaphragm normally sits is a bleed hole so the diaphragm can move freely, without the diaphragm in the pressure just bleeds out this hole. It's always best to just clamp or block the boost hose though so you aren't wasting air from the turbo making it work harder than needed for no reason.
 
Socal81 said:
I know what you mean. Yea I leave the pin in and the diaphragm but I remove the spring. I leave the boost reference line on and it just shoves the pin all the way down or you can just push it down before reinstalling the the cover.

Make sense?

I guess by removing the pin I mainly mean I remove it from the equation by allowing it to ride all the way down without the spring pushing it back up off boost.
Click to expand...
If you leave the pin in you aren't always getting the max fueling possible depending on how far your pin has been ground down. In some cases even though the pin is fully down on the max part of the ground profile the aneroid pin follower may still have some travel left in it to add even more fueling to the max it can inject for that particular main fuel screw setting.
 
KiwiDingo said:
If you leave the pin in you aren't always getting the max fueling possible depending on how far your pin has been ground down. In some cases even though the pin is fully down on the max part of the ground profile the aneroid pin follower may still have some travel left in it to add even more fueling to the max it can inject for that particular main fuel screw setting.
Click to expand...
Yea my pins are ground so deep that they don’t touch the follower pin on full depression.
 
Still tuning but this is the pin I had a local machine shop make to the same hardness as the original pin.

20220411_183905.jpg


20220411_184020.jpg


20220411_184033.jpg


20220411_184046.jpg
 
found this in the facebook pages looking for other fuel pins.. just a reference on whats out there... I'm sure there's others.

Left is KOC Japan, Zeal, Stock

1649994009856.png
 
veiloctane said:
found this in the facebook pages looking for other fuel pins.. just a reference on whats out there... I'm sure there's others.

Left is KOC Japan, Zeal, Stock

View attachment 2981932
Click to expand...
4wheelauto has them but i cant swallow the price there asking for a simple piece of metal
1650045221090.png
 
This is probably going to be a stupid question, but I can’t figure out the angle I need to make on the aneroid pin so it will go in past the follow pin without having to take it out (which in my case means taking off the TPS and bracket that’s nearly impossible to get to in situ)

1hd-ft auto

Here is how I ground the bottom of my pin and rounded it. It doesn’t want to slide in though.

9AB85672-6A7D-49FF-92C0-A290CC0DAD25.jpeg


91D673B5-E6A8-4BF9-91B1-52DFC110901C.jpeg


EB11B2E1-62AB-4413-B1FF-985D2F5E7DDD.jpeg
 
96TrailSurfer said:
This is probably going to be a stupid question, but I can’t figure out the angle I need to make on the aneroid pin so it will go in past the follow pin without having to take it out (which in my case means taking off the TPS and bracket that’s nearly impossible to get to in situ)

1hd-ft auto

Here is how I ground the bottom of my pin and rounded it. It doesn’t want to slide in though.

View attachment 3002849

View attachment 3002850

View attachment 3002851
Click to expand...

20220411_183730.jpg

I have about a 45* angle. It goes in past three follower pin easily
 
tried sending you PM seems your inbox is full
anyways I'm located in Calgary too. let me know thanks
 
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zipdoa said:
I have a BNIB trundles boost compensator cap if anyone wants to buy it - $100 + sh! Pm me
Click to expand...
I'm interested in the boost compensator cap. Which color do you have.
I'm in Vancouver
 
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